2012, Conquering Lugu Lake and Lijiang: A World of Azure and a City of Splendor

Prologue: Three Guys on a Youthful Expedition

Just after the May Day holiday in 2012, my buddies Hui Ge, Xiao Chen, and I—three strapping young men—shouldered our backpacks and set off on a journey to Lugu Lake and Lijiang. We had no lavish budget, no fancy gear—just burning passion and a longing for the distant horizon. Seven days and eight nights, with a per-person cost of just 1,300 RMB—for us, still students at the time, this was already a luxury adventure.

Leaving from Chengdu, we endured a night of bumpy hard-seat train rides, then switched to a bus that rattled for eight hours along the winding mountain roads of the Daliang Mountains. When that legendary stretch of azure finally appeared before our eyes, all the exhaustion melted into sheer delight. This travelogue captures that colorful chapter of our youth.

I. The Many Hues of Lugu Lake: The Purity and Mystery of the Kingdom of Women

1. First Glimpse of the Sea of Grass: A Magical Tapestry of Light and Shadow

At four in the afternoon on April 30th, we finally reached Lugu Lake. The guesthouse we had booked in advance—Erche's place in the Boshu Village by the Sea of Grass—sent a car to pick us up. This Mosuo man named "Wu Erche" would later become the most entertaining character in our travel stories, but that's a tale for later.

After dropping off our luggage, we couldn't wait to rush to the Sea of Grass. The evening sky wasn't clear—dark clouds mingled with sunlight, and rays pierced through the gaps, casting patches of brightness and shadow across the reeds. For us, "naive country boys" who had never seen a plateau lake before, this sight was breathtaking. Though we only had a Canon telephoto camera and a point-and-shoot, that moment of beauty was etched deep in our hearts.

Erche's guesthouse was a wooden building with distinct Mosuo charm. Our room had floor-to-ceiling windows and a balcony overlooking the scenery. Pushing open the window, the Sea of Grass lay right before us; a gentle breeze rustled the reeds. At that moment, I felt like a poet living in seclusion among the mountains and waters.

2. Cycling Around the Lake: A Day Traversing the Kingdom of Women

We had originally planned to take two days to cycle around the lake, but at dinner, a female traveler told us, "One day is enough. You can use the other day to hike over Houlong Mountain to Goddess Bay." If a woman could do it, how could we three tough guys back down? So, we adjusted our plan to one day.

Early the next morning, Hui Ge and I went to Luowa Pier to watch the sunrise. The dawn air at Lugu Lake was bone-chilling; even in my thin down jacket, I was shivering. But when the sun slowly rose over the eastern peaks, a thin mist rose from the lake surface, and a few pig-trough boats glided out of the morning haze—every bit of cold was worth it. At that moment, Lugu Lake looked like a watercolor painting.

We each rented a lightweight women's bike and began our clockwise circuit of the lake. Why clockwise? Because that way, we stayed on the lakeside the whole time, with the scenery spread out before us. Along the way, we passed the Marriage Bridge, Luoshui, Lige, Xiaoluoshui, Dazu, and finally returned to the Sea of Grass. The views were overwhelming: the deep blue lake, golden reeds, Lige Bay cradled in the arms of Goddess Gemu Mountain, the legendary Lover's Tree and Brothers' Tree—every spot begged for a photo.

What impressed me most was Lige Peninsula. It's the iconic postcard image of Lugu Lake—if you don't take a picture here, you might as well not have come. Standing on the observation deck, the entire peninsula looked like a pearl set into the lake, almost too beautiful to be real. Hui Ge sighed, "Lugu Lake, your purity is so fake it's unreal!"

We had our share of comic mishaps during the ride. Lost in a village near the Sea of Grass, we asked a local kid for directions. He told us to cut through the fields to reach the Bright Sea. So there we were, three big guys pushing bikes across muddy ridges, drawing stares from passersby. But when we finally glimpsed that brilliant blue of the Bright Sea, all the awkwardness turned into cheers.

3. Hiking Houlong Mountain: The Tale of a Guide Dog

On our second day at Lugu Lake, we decided to hike over Houlong Mountain to Goddess Bay (also known as Zhao Family Bay). Four other travelers staying at Erche's joined us, swelling our group to seven.

Starting from Luowa Pier, the first half of the trail was manageable. Along the way, we found a perfect lookout point overlooking a beautiful bay; the wind was strong, and the waves crashed loudly. As we were lost in the scenery, a stray dog appeared.

At first, we didn't pay it much attention. But as we walked, we noticed it always stayed ahead of us. When we stopped to take photos, it would lie down in the shade and wait. A hiker coming from the opposite direction asked us, "Where did you find that guide dog? It's been waiting for you all along!" Only then did we realize—this little dog had been leading us the whole way.

And so, that little dog guided us across the entire Houlong Mountain. Whether the path was flat or steep, it always stayed in front. Several times we lost our way, and it would suddenly appear ahead, as if to say, "Follow me." When we reached Goddess Bay and ate at "Good People's Snacks," it stayed under our table. The owner told us it was a stray that earned its food by guiding tourists. It didn't eat meat—only bread. We fed it plenty, and it lay beside us like an old friend.

Later, when we had to take a car to Luoshui, the dog walked ahead and didn't notice we had gotten in. When it turned back, the car was already moving. I saw its eyes searching around, filled with helplessness. One of the women in our group sighed, "We didn't even get to say goodbye." To this day, I still hope that little dog found someone who loved it and took it home.

Goddess Bay was the kind of beauty that makes you want to cry. Clear lake water lapped against the sandy shore in rhythmic waves, like nature playing a symphony. Hui Ge said this was the purest spot at Lugu Lake. I couldn't agree more.

4. Stories of the Mosuo People: Walking Marriages and "Mosuo" Origins

At Lugu Lake, we heard many amusing tales about the Mosuo people. The most entertaining was the origin of the name "Mosuo": legend has it that Mosuo men would "grope" (mo) their way through the woman's window at night and "slide" (suo) out the next morning. Over time, they supposedly called themselves the "Mosuo" tribe. Of course, this was just a joke, but it shows how deeply the walking marriage culture influences the local identity.

We also heard that Lugu Lake was transforming from "a man's paradise" into "a woman's paradise." Local men, tall and handsome, had become objects of desire for female tourists from elsewhere. And our host, Erche, was nicknamed the "Walking Marriage Prince" by female visitors—his wife was a beauty from Chengdu. Clearly, Lugu Lake's charm lies not only in its scenery but also in its fascinating people.

II. The Dazzling Lijiang: Tranquility and Hustle in the City of Romance

1. First Impressions of Lijiang: A Maze of an Ancient Town

From Lugu Lake, we took a bus to Lijiang, the second stop on our journey. With the May Day holiday just over, the old town was less crowded and more serene. Sunlight fell on the cobblestone streets, streams babbled, and a gentle breeze brushed our faces—everything felt perfect.

But at first, this maze of an ancient town gave us quite a headache. Map in hand, we'd lose our way the moment we ducked into an alley. On our first day, we tried to follow Qiyi Street to the south gate of the old town but ended up wandering from Wuyi Street to the eastern edge. Still, getting lost had its own pleasures—we stumbled upon many hidden alleys and beautiful courtyards.

2. Accommodation and Food: Pleasant Surprises on a Budget

We stayed at the Gongye Inn by the Big Stone Bridge on Sifang Street. This was an ancient residence over 300 years old, run by a warm-hearted woman from Hangzhou who had fallen in love with Lijiang and settled there. The price was a steal—70 RMB per night, a godsend for budget travelers like us.

As for food, we didn't miss out on Lijiang's specialties. At the south gate of the old town, we had 土鸡米线 (free-range chicken rice noodles), and at Xiangshan Market, we tried 腊排骨 (cured pork ribs)—both must-tries. For dinner, we'd find a cozy restaurant in the old town, order 纳西小炒肉 (Naxi stir-fried pork) and 东巴烤鱼 (Dongba grilled fish), pair it with a bottle of beer, and watch the passing crowd while enjoying a rare moment of leisure.

But a word of caution: avoid the restaurants near Sifang Street—they're overpriced and underwhelming. If you're after a bohemian vibe, head to the cafes or bars tucked away in the小巷 (small alleys); they offer reasonable prices and a better atmosphere.

3. Lijiang by Night: From Serenity to Revelry

The old town, peaceful during the day, came alive at night. As the lights came on, the cobblestone streets flooded with people, and music and laughter poured out from snack stalls, cafes, and bars. We visited Yimi Yangguang Bar to soak in the legendary nightlife of the "City of Romance." Though we three guys didn't encounter any romantic adventures, the free-spirited atmosphere was incredibly relaxing.

4. The Disappointment of Black Dragon Pool

On our last day in Lijiang, we went to Black Dragon Pool. This was supposed to be the iconic spot of Lijiang—the reflection of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the pool under the Five-Arch Bridge, a stunning sight. Unfortunately, the pool had dried up, leaving only a bare riverbed. Looking at that parched ground, I felt a pang of loss, but it also made me cherish the still-beautiful scenery even more.

III. Travel Tips: Practical Information and Shared Experience

1. Itinerary

• Day 1: Chengdu → Xichang (hard-seat train, 79 RMB/person)
• Day 2: Xichang → Lugu Lake (bus, 94 RMB/person), evening visit to the Sea of Grass
• Day 3: Cycling around the lake (bike rental 20 RMB/person)
• Day 4: Hiking Houlong Mountain to Goddess Bay, chartered car to Luoshui
• Day 5: Lugu Lake → Lijiang (bus ticket 80 RMB/person)
• Day 6: Exploring Lijiang Old Town
• Day 7: Black Dragon Pool, Qingxi Reservoir
• Day 8: Lijiang → Panzhihua → Chengdu (hard-sleeper train 115 RMB/person)

2. Cost Breakdown (1,300 RMB per person)

• Transportation: Chengdu→Xichang train 79 RMB + Xichang→Lugu Lake 94 RMB + Lugu Lake→Lijiang 80 RMB + Lijiang→Panzhihua 110 RMB + Panzhihua→Chengdu 115 RMB = 478 RMB
• Accommodation: Lugu Lake 2 nights 120 RMB + Lijiang 3 nights at 70 RMB/night = 330 RMB
• Entrance Fees: Lugu Lake student half-price 40 RMB
• Food: Approximately 300 RMB
• Other: Bike rental, insurance, snacks, etc. about 150 RMB

3. Essential Gear

• Sunscreen: The plateau UV is intense—absolutely necessary!
• Camera: Canon telephoto + point-and-shoot, enough to capture the beauty
• Thin down jacket: Mornings and evenings at Lugu Lake are cold

Epilogue: Memories of the Distant Horizon

Seven days and eight nights, a budget of 1,300 RMB, three young men on a youthful expedition. From the azure of Lugu Lake to the splendor of Lijiang, from the light and shadow of the Sea of Grass to the alleys of the ancient town, every stretch of road bore our footprints and laughter.

What moved me most was that little guide dog. It had no owner, yet it helped every passerby in its own way. What stunned me most was the purity of Lugu Lake—that heartbreakingly blue beauty that seemed to cleanse the soul. What I miss most are those days on the road—no worries, no stress, only anticipation for the unknown and a pursuit of the beautiful.

Today, Lugu Lake is being overdeveloped, and Lijiang is growing increasingly commercialized. But those memories, like the light and shadow in photographs, remain frozen in that spring of 2012. If you too want to see the colorful Lugu Lake and the dazzling Lijiang, set out soon—some sights, once missed, will never return.

Finally, a parting thought:
"Travel is not about escaping life, but about ensuring life doesn't escape us."
May everyone on the road find their own piece of azure and splendor.