Dali: An Unexpected Encounter That Stole My Heart

Some places are destined to walk into your life — not by chance, but by fate. Five years ago, I first set foot on the soil of Yunnan. Back then, Dali was nothing more than a name on a map to me. It wasn't until I watched the film Heart Road (心花路放) and heard the song Going to Dali (去大理) that a corner of my heart was gently touched. I made up my mind: I would bring my mother and return to this land of colorful clouds.

Kunming: A Warm Prelude

When we arrived in Kunming, the familiar cool air greeted us as if time had never passed. I grabbed my mother's hand and insisted on finding the cross-bridge rice noodle (过桥米线) shop I'd eaten at five years earlier. When the steaming bowl of broth was set on the table and the familiar flavors burst on my tongue, I felt a moment of dizziness — some things truly can remain unchanged.

This time, we visited Green Lake (翠湖). The lake was dotted with thousands of small seagulls, like a handful of living pearls scattered across the water. Kunming locals leisurely fed the birds, their faces glowing with contentment. In that moment, I suddenly felt that this city stirred my heart even more than my own hometown.

Before leaving, we stumbled into Kunming's largest flower market. The riot of colors was like an overturned paint palette. My mother and I couldn't resist buying several bouquets, as if we could carry the colors of spring back home with us.

Dali: Love at First Sight

At 5:30 in the morning, the train slowly pulled into Dali Station. My mother woke me from my sleepy haze, and we boarded Bus No. 8, swaying all the way toward the ancient town. When the bus stopped in front of the Wind, Flower, Snow, and Moon Hotel (风花雪月大酒店), I turned around and froze — the sky was glowing with orange light, Cangshan Mountain appeared faintly in the dawn mist, and the entire city was wrapped in a gentle embrace. It was the only time I saw the sunrise in Dali. In that moment, all my drowsiness vanished.

We stayed at the Flower International Youth Hostel (花儿国际青旅), where a bed cost just 45 yuan — affordable and clean. The hostel staff was so warm and thoughtful that they ran out to meet us, afraid we might get lost. But my mother felt it was too far from the ancient town center, so the next day we moved to the Heart of Town Inn (城心客栈). The owner, who was the same age as my mother, charged us 70 yuan for a standard room, and there was a kitchen we could use. My mother said the happiest thing about traveling is being able to cook a few meals yourself.

Strolling Through the Ancient Town: A Bohemian's Utopia

In the early morning, most of the shops in the ancient town were still closed. The wind was strong — no wonder "Xiaguan Wind" (下关风) tops the list of Dali's four famous sights. Along the roadside, vendors sold grilled milk fan (烤乳扇), grilled rice cakes (烤饵块), and braised pork rice noodles (耙肉饵丝). Though the variety wasn't as rich as in Lijiang, everything had its own Dali flavor.

What fascinated me most were the bohemian youth setting up stalls in the ancient town. Some played guitar, some beat African drums, and others sold handmade crafts. My mother remarked that only people with real skills dare to hang out in Dali. They sat in circles, music rising, their songs carrying a touch of world-weariness yet radiating a boundless sense of freedom. It was the kind of life I had once dreamed of but never had the courage to live.

My mother is an old-school bohemian at heart. She visited nearly every shop in the ancient town that sold African drums, tapping out a rhythm in each one. In the end, she bought three original music CDs and even shipped a small drum back home. Watching her lose herself in the drumbeats, I suddenly understood: true passion makes a person forget their age.

Erhai Lake: Heaven Couldn't Be Better

Taking Bus No. 2 from Cangshan Gate (苍山门) to Caicun Pier (才村码头), we finally laid eyes on Erhai Lake. The sky was blue, the water was blue — distant mountains, rocky shores, fishing boats... everything was so beautiful it felt unreal. I sat on a rock, wishing I could freeze time.

An auntie chased after us, asking if we wanted to take a small boat ride on Erhai Lake. She quoted 80 yuan for two people. My mother's bargaining skills were legendary — we ended up paying 30 yuan. Unfortunately, I got terribly seasick as soon as we boarded, so the task of taking photos fell entirely to my mother. Despite the dizziness, the stillness and beauty of Erhai Lake were etched into my heart. It's actually a lake, but because it's shaped like an ear, the locals call it "Erhai" (Ear Sea).

Xizhou: A Pleasant Surprise

On our way to Xizhou (喜洲), we were lucky enough to catch a minibus heading to Shuanglang (双廊) for just 7 yuan per person. Xizhou is small but incredibly peaceful. The old Bai ethnic houses exuded the scent of time. We couldn't visit the famous Yan Family Grand Courtyard (严家大院) because of an event, but we found several old residences still occupied by local families. Their quadrangles housed multiple generations under one roof — a sight that filled me with envy.

The walk to Haitong Park (海舌公园) was long; we'd been walking for nearly an hour and still hadn't arrived. Fortunately, we hitched a ride with a big boss who was contracting a wetland park project. Haitong Park was breathtakingly beautiful — dead trees stood in the water, tiny houses dotted the distance, and sunlight streamed through the clouds onto the lake's surface, as if God had draped a wedding veil over Erhai. I couldn't help but exclaim, "Even heaven couldn't be better than this."

On the way back, we took a small red three-wheeler for 8 yuan per person. The young driver told us stories about Xizhou the whole way and even dropped us off right at the entrance to the ancient town. In that moment, I realized that travel can be so diverse — any mode of transportation can get you where you need to go.

Shuanglang: Dreaming Back to the Tang Dynasty

On the fourth day, we chartered a car to Shuanglang for 25 yuan per person. The driver told us that the ring road around the lake had only been open for a year and a half. When my mother came to Yunnan in 1998, Shuanglang was still an obscure place. The scenery along the way was like a movie — roads, farmland, blue sky, white clouds — everything in perfect harmony.

Shuanglang was undergoing massive construction, and many people said it looked like a big construction site. But in the face of such beauty, what did a little dust matter? We rented a small electric scooter for 40 yuan a day and set out to explore. The white tables and chairs of Haili Life (海地生活), the cozy courtyard of Nuannuan Inn (暖暖客栈), the demolition and reconstruction of Bandao 63 (半岛63) — every spot had its own story.

The most unforgettable place was Yuji Island (玉几岛). Yang Liping's Sun Palace (太阳宫) and Moon Palace (月亮宫) were built on the mountain, offering a sweeping view that filled the heart with joy. We sat on white chairs by the sea, ordered a plate of pasta and Yangzhou fried rice (扬州炒饭), and basked in the sunlight with the sea breeze on our faces. In that moment, all our worries melted away.

Wase: Little Mishaps Become Scenery

On the third day, we rode our electric scooter toward Wase (挖色). The scenery along the way was so beautiful that we couldn't stop pressing the shutter. Xiaoputuo (小普陀) is a small man-made temple standing in the middle of Erhai Lake, with red-billed gulls circling above the water — a living, moving painting.

Unfortunately, I suddenly came down with acute gastroenteritis, vomiting and having diarrhea all along the road. My mother drove the scooter and took care of me with unwavering attention. Though I didn't get to see much of the scenery, I had no regrets. Some things are beyond our control — the best we can do is accept them with grace.

Epilogue: When the Dream Ends

On the last night in Dali, I sat in our sea-view room, gazing at Erhai Lake through the window. Suddenly, a line from the poet Haizi came to mind: "Facing the sea, with spring blossoms." I used to think it was just a fantasy from a poem, but here, it had become reality.

Some say Shuanglang is a paradise lost by the shores of Erhai — quieter than Lijiang, more romantic than Dali. To me, it's simply a place where you can wander, daydream, and soak up the sun. If I'm going to have any daydreams, this is where I want them to happen.

The dream is over, but I'm not ready to return to reality. I know Dali has already taken up residence in my heart. Next time, I'll be back.

Practical Tips

• Accommodation: The Heart of Town Inn (城心客栈) in the ancient town (70 yuan/standard room) offers great value and has a kitchen. In Shuanglang, Haipan Taosheng (海畔涛声) (100 yuan/sea-view room) is highly recommended.
• Transportation: Electric carts within the ancient town cost 3 yuan per person. Buses outside the town are convenient. Chartering a car in the off-season costs around 25 yuan per person.
• Food: Don't miss Xizhou flatbread (喜洲粑粑) — 6 yuan each, available in savory and sweet varieties. Grilled milk fan (烤乳扇) and grilled rice cakes (烤饵块) are also must-tries.
• Attractions: Haitong Park (海舌公园) is free. Xiaoputuo (小普陀) is great for watching seagulls. In Shuanglang, Yuji Island (玉几岛), Sun Palace (太阳宫), and Moon Palace (月亮宫) are must-visit spots.
• Note: Dali is very windy — dress warmly. Check your electric scooter thoroughly before renting. If you have a sensitive stomach, be careful with your diet.