If You Also Pass Through Here: A Solo Journey to Lugu Lake, a Dialogue with Myself

Some places aren't on your map when you decide to go. Some roads aren't traveled because others call them beautiful. You set out simply because a voice inside whispers: Go. There, you'll find the answers you're looking for.

In May 2013, I set off for Lugu Lake (Lugu Hu). Not for a photo op. Not to show off. Just to find a sliver of peace in what people call "the last pure land on earth."

Before You Go: What You Absolutely Need to Know

Trip Overview

• Dates: May 23–27, 2013 — five days, four nights
• Route: Xichang → Lugu Lake (Lige Village) → Daluoshui → Lugu Lake Town → Luowa Pier → Goddess Bay → The Walking Marriage Bridge → back to Xichang
• Transport: Mostly hiking, supplemented by cycling and short rides

Practical Tips

Bus tickets from Xichang to Lugu Lake must be purchased a day in advance, especially from May onward when the tourist season kicks in. Tickets sell out fast. Don't overlook this, or you might find yourself staring blankly at an empty ticket counter.

Day 1: Xichang to Lugu Lake — A Battle with Carsickness

At 8:10 a.m., the bus departed Xichang on time. The ride takes between six and eight hours. The first three hours weren't bad — there was even a stretch of highway that made me think this trip would be smooth sailing. Then we left the highway, and the road turned into a nightmare. Bumpy doesn't begin to describe it.

I got carsick. Not the mild kind — the kind where your stomach turns inside out and you're retching bile. A little girl on the bus had been throwing up since we left, and the whole vehicle reeked of despair. If you're prone to carsickness, my advice is: skip lunch. Eat, and you'll wish you could walk the rest of the way. Motion sickness patches and pills? Useless on roads like these.

Around 4 p.m., we finally arrived at Lugu Lake. The driver made everyone get off to buy tickets. Entering from the Sichuan side, a full-price ticket costs 80 RMB; a student ticket is 40 RMB. I'd read online that you could pretend to walk around and the driver wouldn't check. I believed it. But a few meters after we got back on, park staff boarded to inspect tickets. I casually claimed I was a local from Lugu Lake Town. The staff member stared at me for a long moment and muttered, "I've never seen you before." I said nothing. He let it go. A lucky break — but don't try this yourself. Buy your ticket honestly.

At Lugu Lake Town, I shared a ride to Lige Village for 30 RMB per person — a fixed price, no bargaining. I'd booked a room at the Lugu Lake Youth Hostel (Lao Xie Che Ma Dian). The place was decent enough, and the location was convenient.

No sooner had I arrived than a torrential downpour hit. Less than half an hour later, the rain stopped, and the sun reappeared. That's Lugu Lake's weather — like a temperamental child, crying one minute, laughing the next. The lake after the rain, bathed in fresh sunlight, was so beautiful it made me forget the misery of the journey. I raised my camera and clicked. Every shot was a painting.

Dinner was at a nearby eatery: egg noodles for 15 RMB, yak meat rice bowl for 25 RMB. Not cheap, but edible. That evening, I stopped by a bar next to the hostel, listened to a singer perform a few Li Zhi songs, and turned in early.

Day 2: Hiking from Lige to Daluoshui — Encountering Real Life

Lugu Lake is divided by a green line into the Sichuan side and the Yunnan side. My hike today would take me from Lige to Daluoshui and back — every step on foot.

I set out at 9 a.m. Not far in, I came across a meadow dotted with cattle, sheep, and a few little black pigs. I couldn't resist jumping up for a photo — only to land like a clumsy penguin. Pathetic. By the roadside, a flower was blooming on a pile of cow dung. Strangely amusing.

The weather remained capricious. Ten minutes of rain, then ten minutes of sun. Don't trust the forecast — here, it's just decoration. The sky wasn't blue today; a thin mist hung over the lake, giving it a dreamy quality. On the trail, only the wind and birdsong kept me company, with the occasional car passing by. I soaked in the silence — as if the whole world had slowed down.

At a sandy beach, I met a father and son selling dried apple slices. The little boy kept calling out, "Sister, buy a pack!" The father said, "Think of it as charity — pity the child, help send him to school." Ten RMB a pack, and the portions were tiny. Both were shabbily dressed. I felt a pang of sympathy but decided to buy on my way back since I didn't want to carry it while hiking. When I returned, I saw the father in clean clothes, riding a motorcycle with his wife and child — and the unsold apple slices. My feelings were complicated. But later, I let it go. We can't blame people for losing their innocence; maybe that's just life. Everyone is struggling to get by, each in their own way.

I reached Daluoshui at 2 p.m., only to be caught in another downpour. I ducked into the Watchman Inn for lunch: stir-fried meat for 25 RMB, vegetables for 10 RMB, rice for 3 RMB per person — cheaper than Lige. The rain showed no sign of stopping, so I stayed to read. Around 3 p.m., it cleared up. I sent a few postcards, then hiked back to Lige, arriving around 6 p.m.

That evening, I read again at the hostel. In Lugu Lake, time seems to slow down — slow enough that you can finish an entire book without feeling like you've wasted a moment.

Day 3: Lige to Luowa Pier — A 20-Kilometer Hike and an Unforgettable Farmhouse Meal

As I left Lige, I noticed the hostel's cats and dogs lazily basking in the sun. I couldn't help thinking: is a life without such lazy sunbathing even worth living?

Not far from Lige, I reached the viewpoint. But I'd started too early; the sun hadn't fully risen, so the photos were mediocre. Today's hike would cover about 20 kilometers. My rule: take the small paths, avoid the main roads.

A trail beside the highway led down to Nisai Village, home to the famous "Lover Trees." I stood between the two trees for a photo, feeling as small as a speck of dust.

I lingered in Nisai Village until after 11 a.m., then asked a random farmhouse if they could feed me. In Lugu Lake, if you're hungry, you can knock on any door — they'll usually take you in. For groups of five or more, it's 30 RMB per person, and you'll be stuffed. Since I was alone, they charged me 40 RMB.

That meal is still unforgettable. Their wooden house was cozy, and the food was better than most hostels and restaurants: mushroom stewed chicken, stir-fried greens, homemade pickles, and fragrant rice. After eating, I wandered around. I saw an elderly woman tending the fire pit, clothes drying in the yard, and something that blew my mind — from a distance, I thought it was a wooden stool. Up close, it was a whole slab of pork, hanging in the yard to air-dry.

When I was about to leave at 1:30 p.m., the sky finally cleared. The house and the children inside left a deep impression on me. That kind of calm, simple life made all my restlessness fade away.

Passing through Dazui Village, I saw a group of adorable kids playing. An old man was sunbathing — a heartwarming scene. I raised my camera, but as I got closer, I noticed his mouth was deformed. He avoided the lens. I'm sorry — I shouldn't have disturbed his peace.

Around 6 p.m., I hiked into Lugu Lake Town. I'd booked a room at the Legend Inn (Chuan Shuo Yi Zhan) near Luowa Pier. I called the owner, and he came to pick me up. The room had a large bed — I loved it. The view from the balcony was something no photo could capture. The inn's second-floor common area had books, internet, and free domestic long-distance calls. Every night, I'd sit there and watch the moon rise slowly over the lake. Words can't describe that feeling.

In the evening, I walked up the hill to watch the sunset. At that moment, all I wanted was to say: Please, leave me in the best of times.

Day 4: Cycling to Goddess Bay and the Walking Marriage Bridge — The Taste of Freedom

The lake was calm and serene in the early morning. From the inn, I walked to Luowa Pier and took a boat ride around the lake, visiting Princess Island and skirting the Grass Sea. It cost 70 RMB per person. The water was so clear you could see the bottom. The young man rowing told me it was drinkable and asked if I wanted to try. I hesitated — and chickened out.

Princess Island was said to be the former home of Lugu Lake's last princess. There wasn't much to see on the island, but the view of the entire lake from there was stunning. Back on the boat, we headed toward the Grass Sea. In the distance, I spotted a couple taking photos in front of the Legend Inn. I called out to them, and they turned around. I snapped a shot. They were smiling so sweetly — a moment of pure emotion. It didn't need to be a perfect photo; capturing that instant was enough.

By the time I got off the boat, it was nearly 11 a.m. I rented a bicycle at Luowa Pier and headed for Goddess Bay. There's only one rental shop there, run by a disabled man. Women's bikes cost 40 RMB per day; mountain bikes, 60 RMB. No deposit needed — just leave your ID card.

The road to Goddess Bay was mostly uphill. I was gasping for breath. But the ride back was pure bliss — downhill all the way, no brakes needed, just coasting with the wind roaring past my ears. That feeling of freedom? Only cyclists know it.

Passing through a village, I was blocked by a flock of geese. As I approached, they stretched out their necks, ready to peck. I'd heard goose bites hurt, so I quickly gave way. The goose at the back was clearly the boss — head held high, as if to say, "This road is mine."

I reached Goddess Bay at 1:30 p.m. and finally tried the highly recommended "Good Man's Eatery" (Hao Ren Xiao Chi). Thirty RMB per person, no ordering — just eat until you're full. The mushroom stewed chicken and mushroom stewed fish were incredible. If you wanted more, you could have it. The owner, "Good Man Zhao," spoke plainly and honestly — a genuinely good person. After eating, I rested by the bay. The water was pristine and beautiful. Honestly, compared to this, Sanya's Yalong Bay was nothing.

I lay lazily under the shade of a tree, listening to the wind and watching the lake. I didn't want to leave.

At 4 p.m., I started heading back, this time toward the Walking Marriage Bridge. I arrived around 5 p.m. The Grass Sea under a blue sky and white clouds looked like a painting. As dusk fell, I bought a grilled potato from a stall by the bridge, then cycled back to Luowa Pier.

Day 5: Saying Goodbye to Lugu Lake — Leaving with Regret and Hope

I really didn't want to leave. The time was too short. Another two days might have been perfect. As I left, I felt a pang of loss. But then I thought: maybe regret is just another kind of beauty.

Everything You Want to Know About Lugu Lake

Where to Stay?

Lugu Lake is split between the Sichuan side and the Yunnan side. On the Yunnan side, Lige Village and Lige Peninsula have the best scenery; Daluoshui is also decent. Other areas are under heavy construction and less appealing. In Daluoshui, I recommend the Watchman Inn.

On the Sichuan side, the most beautiful spots are Goddess Bay and the Grass Sea. Goddess Bay has great views but poor transport — I suggest staying at Luowa Pier. The most popular inn there is "Sige Huo Tang," but after visiting, I found its view of the Grass Sea lacking. The best views are probably at "Bandao No. 1" and the Legend Inn. The Legend Inn's owner is blunt and not particularly warm when you book, but he's decent once you get to know him. I recommend booking through Taobao, which is 20 RMB cheaper than Ctrip. Note that most inns require prepayment, and good ones fill up quickly if you show up without a reservation.

How About Boat Rides?

Boat tickets on the Yunnan side are cheaper; Luowa Pier is relatively expensive. If you want to ride a traditional pig trough boat (zhucao chuan), choose based on your budget.

What to Eat?

Restaurants and inns aren't cheap. For good, reasonably priced food, eat at a local farmhouse — 30 RMB per person, and you'll be full.

How to Explore?

Hiking and cycling are the way to go. Touring by car is too rushed and takes away the experience. Of course, if you're traveling with elderly family or young children, or if you're short on time and just want to see the sights, a car is convenient.

Other Tips

• Buy bus tickets a day in advance. For return tickets, buy two days ahead or ask your innkeeper to help.
• The UV is intense — you'll burn easily. Bring sunscreen. A scarf is especially useful for women.
• Postcards are cheaper in Daluoshui than in Lige. Ask the shop to mail them for you. There's a long, elegant style of postcard that's particularly beautiful.

Final Thoughts

Whether you're ready or not, if you want to go to Lugu Lake, just go. Who knows how many more years the water will stay clean?

I love Lugu Lake — its beauty, its purity, its stillness, and most of all, the version of myself I find on the road. Every journey is a kind of cleansing. Every sight, every warm glance, every kind smile — they all feel so precious. Only after seeing so many landscapes can you truly understand the meaning of life and find your best self.

The kindest moments in life are as bright as water. In my memory, someone always sits beside me and says: Forever and ever, it's a different kind of life.

If you also pass through here, come back and tell me your story.

This article is based on personal experience, with some details literary embellished. Prices and business information reflect 2013 conditions and are for reference only.