2024, Joining the Crowds: A Parent-Child Journey Through the Cloudy South of Yunnan

Time is a silent traveler, always carrying us to the next crossroads before we even notice. Flipping through the photo album of memories, I realize the last time I seriously documented a journey was back in 2017. Seven years. The world has changed so much, and so have we. But some obsessions never fade—like my belief that words preserve the warmth of life far better than short videos ever could. Even if it's just through a screen, sharing a trip with you, a stranger, feels like a strange and wonderful kind of connection.

And this time, the protagonist of my travelogue has shifted from that "her" to this "her." In 2018, we welcomed the most important "her" into our lives. Then came 2019, and the pandemic hit, pressing the world's pause button. After restrictions lifted in 2022, my wife and the grandparents took her to Chimelong in Guangzhou, Shanghai Disneyland, Atlantis in Sanya... but those trips were always missing one person—the dad stuck in a cubicle, yet so important to her. That's me.

So, during the 2024 Spring Festival, a spontaneous trip finally happened.

Just Go, No More Hesitation

I don't know when it started, but I realized I'm no longer young. I don't have endless energy or infinite time to meticulously plan a vacation anymore. I used to spend a month researching itineraries, comparing flight prices, and booking every single restaurant. Now, I'd rather spend that time being present.

On the eve of Chinese New Year's Eve, after a few rounds of drinks, we hastily booked our flights and itinerary. The destination? Xishuangbanna (a Dai autonomous prefecture in southern Yunnan). The process didn't seem to matter much anymore. What mattered was that we were finally taking our five-year-old on a real trip together.

About the Itinerary: An Unconventional Route (But Please Don't Copy Me)

Because we left in such a rush, our itinerary was far from mainstream—I'd even call it a "bad example" not to follow. During Spring Festival, Yunnan and Xishuangbanna are undoubtedly the top choices for family trips. Our flight was from Nanjing straight to Kunming—simply because tickets to Kunming were easier to get. Then we headed south, passing through Pu'er (a city in Yunnan known for its tea), and finally reaching Xishuangbanna. This solved the headache of not having direct flights to Xishuangbanna, but it also set the stage for plenty of hassle.

A few tips for anyone planning a trip to Xishuangbanna:

1. Never go during peak tourist season. If you think a destination is great, so does everyone else. The crowds will ruin the experience.
2. Book tickets and plan your itinerary well in advance. The prices for last-minute flights and hotels during the holidays—let's just say it's painful.
3. In Yunnan, avoid tour groups unless absolutely necessary. Only consider it if you're traveling last-minute like us and can't find hotels or can't be bothered to plan.
4. Fly directly to Xishuangbanna. The distance from Kunming to Xishuangbanna is like crossing several provinces in the Yangtze River Delta. Plus, Kunming is on a plateau, and the winding, bumpy roads are tough on the elderly and children.
5. Eat as much fruit as possible. Those expensive "tropical aristocrats" in fancy fruit shops up north become affordable "commoners" here.

Joining the Crowds in the Cloudy South of Yunnan

Kunming: Late Arrival, a Gentle First Impression

We arrived in Kunming late at night. Our little one had slept on the plane and was full of energy. We checked into the Kunming Wyndham Hotel. The temperature here was just like Nanjing during Spring Festival—warm with a hint of chill.

Waking up in the morning, we didn't see the sunrise or dawn we'd imagined. Don't be surprised—we were already in the southwestern corner of the country. Even though we use Beijing time, the sun has its own "schedule" here.

Fuxian Lake (a pristine plateau lake) was our introduction to Yunnan. The lush winter flowers and plants whispered the warmth of the Tropic of Cancer—cherry blossoms, roses, sunflowers, cacti, all blooming in competition. Fuxian Lake is a clean, free-to-enter plateau lake, perfect for photos. You can finish in about an hour. The park has a little train and other fun activities for kids. With a gentle breeze and flower-filled fields, Yunnan quietly opens its heart to you. Even in winter, the strong sun on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau is blinding.

Pu'er: Ancient Tea Horse Road, Sunset and Rainbows

After Fuxian Lake and lunch, we headed to Pu'er. During Spring Festival, Yunnan's highways were clogged, turning into red dotted lines on the map—like a teacher's intermittent red ink marks on homework. We passed a fruit market along the way. Watermelons, strawberries, pineapples, grapes... those "aristocrats" that cost a fortune in fancy fruit shops back home were all affordable here. We ate our fill.

By the time we reached Pu'er, it was already dark. At the Ancient Tea Horse Road (a historic trade route), the artificial lake in front of the cable car station caught the golden glow of sunset on old houses, painting a beautiful picture. The park's signature show—cormorant fishing—had the kids clapping and cheering. There was one exception, though: a little girl eating ice cream while wearing a winter coat. The highlands and tropics mix here, leaving even the kids a bit confused.

We took a cute rainbow-colored cable car up to the ancient Tea Horse Road. There was a mountain path we didn't climb because it got dark. There's also a museum about the history of the Tea Horse Road. The beauty of the ancient architecture reminded me of Huizhou (a region in Anhui province). Local guides, called "A Bu" and "A Li," explain the history and culture of the ethnic minorities and the origins of the Tea Horse Road. You can tell how important horses were here.

At the viewing platform by the entrance, you can see the entire city of Pu'er. As the lights came on and the sunset painted the sky, I realized: Yunnan truly is the "Cloudy South." That photo I took from the cable car—with the sunset and clouds, the light and shadow were so beautiful it was intoxicating. The rainbow cable cars are designed for families, which was a nice touch.

Pu'er Sun River National Forest Park: Meeting the "Coworker" Red Pandas

During the holidays, it was warm here, like spring, with midday feeling like summer. The place was packed with couples, friends, families—everyone. The forest park is huge, and the animals are semi-wild. You can see rare white rhinos (too crowded to photograph), red pandas, parrots, bears, monkeys, and various large birds. There are paid photo opportunities, which are kid-friendly.

The funniest part was watching the red pandas being "called down from the trees to work" by their keepers. I remember in Mauritius, my wife called all large birds "Big Bird." Here, our daughter got to get up close with these beautiful little animals—colorful parrots, owls that looked like mice, and red pandas reluctantly clocking in for their shift.

The red pandas roam freely in the park. I first saw one at the Shanghai Wild Animal Park, but it's clear these red pandas live a much happier life here. Red pandas are highly endangered, listed as Endangered (EN) on the IUCN Red List (2015 ver3.1) and as a Class II protected species in China's National Key Protected Wildlife List (2021 revision). The red pandas in the trees, hearing the keeper's call, slowly climbed down and entered "work mode." The keeper said they were in mating season, so no touching.

With flowers in full bloom, our daughter couldn't leave empty-handed. The park had a creative baseball cap as a souvenir—well done! But I couldn't help frowning at the ubiquitous "Mekong River Cultural Tourism" signs; "Lancang River" (the Chinese name for the upper Mekong) sounds so much better.

Xishuangbanna Wild Elephant Valley: Up Close with Land Giants

As the only place in China where you can see wild Asian elephants, this is Xishuangbanna Wild Elephant Valley. Unfortunately, time was tight, and we didn't see any wild elephants. But that didn't stop us from getting close to these land giants. The sun at 6 PM was warm and gentle. The valley also has other small animals, and we saw butterflies fluttering around. I bought a butterfly specimen for my daughter—it was really beautiful. No photos of that. She also posed for a picture with her favorite fruit.

Xishuangbanna Grand Buddha Temple: Exotic Vibes, a Photographer's Paradise

The Grand Buddha Temple is incredibly photogenic. I'd recommend ladies to prepare ethnic costumes in advance and allow plenty of time for photos. I strongly suggest taking the electric cart up and walking down. Otherwise, like us, you'll be too exhausted to take any pictures after climbing up. The scenery is beautiful and has a strong exotic feel. This is a Theravada Buddhist temple, where young monks are allowed to date and marry. The Dai girls, no matter the season, have enviably slender waists.

After all the hustle and climbing, our daughter was in a bad mood. The queue for the electric cart going up was very long, so be prepared. To keep everyone in good spirits, I'd recommend taking the cart up.

Mengbalanaxi Grand Theater: A Visual Feast Worth Seeing

If you have time, this show is worth watching. Tickets aren't cheap—280 RMB per person, including dinner, but children under 1.2 meters are free. Our daughter was thoroughly entertained. Of course, there was a photo session. She was getting sleepy after a long day, but as soon as the performance started, she perked right up. The stage design was excellent. I'd heard all about the slender waists of Dai girls in Yunnan, and seeing it live, they really are slim. Photos don't do it justice—I kept the 4K 60fps video to enjoy later.

Xishuangbanna Starry Night Market: Overwhelming Crowds, DIY Photoshoot

"Overwhelming crowds" is an understatement for the Starry Night Market. The streets are filled with vendors, food stalls, and people in colorful ethnic costumes for photo shoots. I heard there's a "garrison" of 300,000 people from Northeast China here, plus countless young women from all over the country weaving through the crowds in various ethnic attire. Every photography studio was desperate for photographers—I almost got pulled off the street to help out.

The sunset in Xishuangbanna never disappoints. That might have been the General Buddha Temple in the distance. Anyway, back to the topic: we couldn't skip the photo shoot. We went to a photography shop for makeup and styling, but I was the photographer—because there wasn't a single available photographer to be found. During the holidays, with the massive crowds, it was a full-on "DIY photoshoot." Looking at the blurred background with tiny, colorful lights and neon signs, I guess that's how the Starry Night Market got its name. We couldn't stay out too late with our daughter, but she was so excited she didn't feel tired at all. We ran into a family with a "Bubble Sister" (a character from a popular kids' show), and everywhere you saw signs saying "Missing you somewhere."

On the way back to the hotel, I snapped a photo of Xishuangbanna's nightscape along the Lancang River. It's hard to believe such a small border town could be so vibrant. The deep, dark river flows another 50 kilometers and is then called the Mekong. And that's a story for another world.

Manting Royal Garden: The Dai King's Imperial Garden

Manting Royal Garden was once the imperial garden of the Dai kings, now open to the public. It's a great place to see, explore, and photograph. It has a wide variety of tropical plants, exotic architecture, and attractions like elephants, parrots, boat rides, and the General Buddha Temple. I highly recommend it for families with kids and for young women who love photo shoots. Remember to wear ethnic costumes.

In the End: Life Is Also a Journey

Life is a journey, too. Cherish every part of it. I truly enjoy telling and recording stories through words and pictures. Because images and words can freeze a moment in time, making it eternal. Whenever I look back and open an old travelogue, it tells the story of a certain time—the same people, different places and times, expressing a certain feeling inside.

Thank you for every journey and every friend I've met along the way.

Let me end this trip with this group photo—because there, my daughter found a wonderful friendship: "Bubble Sister" from Chengdu. If we have the chance, I hope we meet again, either in Nanjing or in Chengdu. Sending our best wishes to you all.

And finally, I send my love and blessings to my daughter—may you grow up strong like a flower, may you be safe and happy. Wishing you all the best.

On the way back, we didn't take a bus. Instead, we took the intercity high-speed train and a flight back to that familiar, busy city. The crowded transit hubs and long journeys home were just byproducts of beautiful memories, not worth recording.

Travel Tips: - Traveling during peak season? Book flights and hotels well in advance. - Traveling with kids? Fly directly to your destination for the best experience. - Yunnan's fruit is cheap and delicious—don't miss out. - Ethnic costumes make for better photos; prepare in advance. - Avoid tour groups unless necessary; independent travel offers a better experience.

May you also have a trip you can take at a moment's notice.