2026 Spring Festival 12-Day Sichuan-Yunnan Loop: A Slow Travel Diary Through Southwest China

2026 Spring Festival 12-Day Sichuan-Yunnan Loop: A Slow Travel Diary Through Southwest China

During the Spring Festival holiday, you always need a place to "have some fun." For the 2026 Chinese New Year, our family of three ditched the traditional visiting of relatives and chose a 12-day long-distance route starting from Guiyang, passing through Kunming, Dali, and Lijiang, then turning toward Mount Emei, Leshan, and Chengdu. This trip had the smoky charm of green trains, the warm sun by Erhai Lake, and unexpected surprises in ancient towns. Total cost: 9,707.36 RMB (approximately $1,350 USD), about 3,236 RMB ($450 USD) per person. We unlocked Southwest China's most classic scenery in the most down-to-earth way.


Pre-Trip Preparation: A "War" to Snatch Tickets During Spring Festival Rush

Train tickets during the Spring Festival travel season were the biggest challenge of this trip. The green train from Wenzhou to Guiyang sold out the moment sales opened. We juggled three apps—Ctrip, Qunar, and 12306—and ended up buying standing-only tickets to board. Experience taught us: 12306 has the highest waitlist success rate, but Qunar responds faster. We recommend operating both simultaneously and canceling the other once one confirms a ticket. For the return trip from Chengdu to Wenzhou, Qunar even allowed purchasing a day in advance—a true "Spring Festival magic tool."

Before departure, we only brought a small amount of cash, which ended up unused—mobile payment is ubiquitous in Southwest China. We found a travel photography shop on Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book) in Xizhou Ancient Town. Between Bai and Yi ethnic costumes, we chose Yi because their clothes are hand-sewn by locals, with superior texture. For meals, we relied on Dianping's group-buy deals—saving money and hassle.


Day 1 (February 11): Wenzhou → Guiyang, "Survival Rules" on the Green Train Dining Car

Keywords: Standing ticket + dining car "all-inclusive," 417 RMB/person = lower bunk price + four meals

At 6:21 AM, we took a Didi from home—9.1 RMB ($1.30 USD) to Wenzhou Station. Train K944 departed at 07:30 with standing tickets at 217 RMB ($30 USD) per adult and 108.5 RMB ($15 USD) for the child. After boarding, my daughter and I rushed straight to the dining car to "claim seats," while I tried my luck with the train conductor—hard sleeper berths were long sold out. Fortunately, the dining car still had space: 200 RMB ($28 USD) per person covered the entire journey, including lunch, dinner, midnight snack, and breakfast. In the end, standing ticket plus dining car cost 417 RMB ($58 USD), just 20 RMB ($3 USD) more than a hard sleeper lower bunk at 397 RMB ($55 USD), but with four meals included—and they weren't bad: braised pork rice, chicken leg rice, egg and shredded pork noodles... great value.

Warning: Dining car seats are first-come, first-served. Latecomers end up on plastic stools but pay the same price. The hard-seat carriages were packed to the brim, with standing passengers filling the aisles—going to the bathroom was like a "Long March." Sleeping upright against the seat back was exhausting, but the dining car had less smoke than the hard sleeper's secondhand cigarette environment.


Day 2 (February 12): Guiyang → Kunming, "Gout Warning" from Sour Fish Soup

Keywords: Silk-wrapped baby, sour fish soup, Jiaxiu Tower night view

After the dining car's final breakfast of congee and steamed buns at 7:30 AM, we stored our luggage at Guiyang Station (10 RMB / $1.40 USD) and took Bus No. 1 (6 RMB / $0.80 USD) to the city center for food. Many shops were closed for Spring Festival, so we randomly picked Lei Family Tofu Balls (雷家豆腐圆子, group-buy 9.22 RMB / $1.30 USD)—deep-fried tofu stuffed with houttuynia cordata (fish mint), drizzled with chili oil—just okay. Aunt Yang's Silk-Wrapped Baby (杨姨妈丝娃娃, 46 RMB / $6.40 USD) was a pleasant surprise: a dozen small ingredients you wrap yourself in thin rice pancakes, like a "mini spring roll feast."

Go to Tea Mountain (去茶山, 57.6 RMB / $8 USD) is a local milk tea chain, similar to Starbucks, with charging outlets for working. Their signature aged Pu'er cheese milk tea had a unique flavor—some might find it off-putting. For dinner, Old Kaili Sour Fish Soup (老凯俚酸汤鱼, friend treated, group-buy 131 RMB / $18 USD) had a rich, tangy broth. My husband drank three bowls straight—and woke up with a gout attack the next day. Sour soup is delicious, but gout sufferers, beware.

After dinner, we strolled to Jiaxiu Tower for night views, then visited Qingyun Market. It looked fun in short videos, but in reality, it's just an ordinary night market with few creative goods. Guaiwan Family Icy Slush (乖丸家冰浆, 24.99 RMB / $3.50 USD) was a revelation: cucumber and milk icy slush—refreshing and palate-cleansing—and giant grape flavor, sweet without being cloying. Our child downed half a cup alone. Erqi Snack Street was the longest food street I've ever seen—it ends right at the train station, convenient for catching trains.

At 21:08, we boarded Train K79 to Kunming: lower bunk 161 RMB ($22 USD), middle bunk 156 RMB ($22 USD), child upper bunk 109 RMB ($15 USD), total 426 RMB ($59 USD). After a sleepless night before, this sleep was bliss.


Day 3 (February 13): Kunming → Dali, Jizhao Nunnery's "Succulent Temptation" and Fengyangyi's "Windy Courtyard"

Keywords: 2-hour bullet train, Jizhao Nunnery hike, Dai-style hand-grabbed rice till full

We arrived early at 5:02 AM in Kunming, then transferred to Bullet Train D8660 (07:25-09:33, second class 276 RMB / $38 USD). After exiting, the "Worry-Free Dali" direct bus to the ancient city (5 RMB / $0.70 USD per person) seemed convenient, but we still had to walk half an hour—better to take Bus No. 4 directly to the homestay door.

Lunch: Weishan Braised Pork Rice Noodles (巍山𤆵肉饵丝, 30 RMB / $4.20 USD)—rice noodles were better than the "ersi" (rice cakes cut like noodles), which were sticky and pasty. At 1 PM, we headed to Jizhao Nunnery (寂照庵, Didi 12.9 RMB / $1.80 USD). We hiked a winding mountain road for half an hour—steep and exhausting. The payoff? A house filled with succulents. If you don't like hiking, don't like succulents, and don't like taking photos, honestly, don't bother coming.

Down the mountain, we went to Fengyangyi Village (凤阳邑村, Didi 5.3 RMB / $0.70 USD), a filming location for the hit drama "Meet Yourself." The ancient village is small; you can ride horses through the ancient Tea Horse Road. We stopped at Listening Wind Courtyard (听风小院, 41 RMB / $5.70 USD) for a glass of tamarind juice and sunbathing—bliss. Dinner: Dai A Dai Hand-Grabbed Rice (傣阿傣手抓饭, group-buy 137.92 RMB / $19 USD): three colors of rice, free refills—we refilled four times and cleaned every plate! Grilled milk fan (烤乳扇, 5 RMB / $0.70 USD) was too greasy—skip it.

Accommodation: Guqin Bieyuan · Guqin Garden Healing Homestay (古琴别院·古琴花园疗愈美宿), 147.05 RMB ($20 USD) per night. A Bai-style courtyard, clean room. The host added us on WeChat in advance to send the address—thoughtful service.


Day 4 (February 14): Dali, Xizhou Ancient Town's "Travel Photography" and Erhai Cycling

Keywords: Family travel photography 698 RMB, Corridor Bridge cycling, Mei Xiang Yuan Restaurant clean-plate club

After breakfast noodles at the homestay, we took a Didi (39 RMB / $5.40 USD) to Xizhou Ancient Town. We tried Mao Xi Family Grilled Meat (毛稀家烤肉, 38 RMB / $5.30 USD)—mushroom-infused grilled pork was fragrant. Old Yan's Crispy Flatbread (老严破酥粑粑, 10 RMB / $1.40 USD) was dry and disappointing. A roadside Sour Fruit Stall (酸嘢, 10 RMB / $1.40 USD) was a happy surprise: fruit tossed with passion fruit and sour plum powder—tangy and appetizing.

At 1 PM, Xiying Alley Photography (喜影巷摄影, family package 698 RMB / $97 USD) started the shoot: all raw photos delivered, 14 retouched. The makeup artist and photographer were professional—they retouched me into a "fairy," so thin I barely recognized myself. After the shoot, we walked through the wheat fields to Erhai Lake—a 30-minute walk. Only shared bikes could be returned at a different location. We took a sightseeing car from Haishe Park to Corridor Bridge (海舌公园到廊桥, 60 RMB / $8.30 USD), then rented bikes (20.5 RMB / $2.90 USD) to cycle to the viral S-Bend scenic spot. But the scenic area's electric scooters were slow and prone to battery failure—bicycles were more convenient.

On the way back, hailing a ride was tough. We lucked into a ride with a local driver (30 RMB / $4.20 USD). Dinner: Mei Xiang Yuan Restaurant (梅乡缘饭庄, group-buy 238 RMB / $33 USD): matsutake mushroom stewed chicken, carved plum spareribs, "water spinach with eggs"... all cleaned! The raw pork skin (烧生皮) was 70% cooked—chewy and flavorful.


Day 5 (February 15): Dali, the "Lying Flat Philosophy" of a Haidong Homestay

Keywords: Feeding seagulls, takeout and chilling, 146 RMB for a "Ideal State" room

We switched to the Haidong (East Erhai) area to stay. Bus + shuttle (24 RMB / $3.30 USD) took us to Ta Village. In the afternoon, we went to Wenbi Village (文笔村, Didi 19.8 RMB / $2.80 USD). We didn't find the fabled Rainbow Road, but we did feed seagulls by the lake (25 RMB / $3.50 USD). Back at the homestay, we entered "lying flat" mode: ordered Guming milk tea (54 RMB / $7.50 USD) and takeout from Puer Jingdong Lu Rong Farmhouse (普洱景东陆蓉农家菜, 84.9 RMB / $12 USD). The fried spareribs and ham porcini mushroom fried rice were tasty, though a bit oily.

Accommodation: Dali Nianjia Light Luxury Homestay (大理念家轻奢民宿), 146.64 RMB ($20 USD) per night. The room was huge, the bed so comfortable I didn't want to get up. The window had a view of passing trains—the next day, we rode the very train that passed by. Perfect symmetry.


Day 6 (February 16, New Year's Eve): Dali → Lijiang, the "Bar Experience" on a Viral Double-Decker Train

Keywords: Double-decker train bar, Zhongyi Night Market, New Year's Eve in Lijiang

At 11:14 AM, we took the Haidong shuttle (15 RMB / $2.10 USD) to Dali Station and bought some dry snacks for lunch (38 RMB / $5.30 USD). The Y759 double-decker viral train (13:40-17:59, hard sleeper converted to hard seat, 59 RMB / $8.20 USD): Car 1 is a bar, Car 2 is a dining car. We spent 30 RMB ($4.20 USD) on a glass of orange juice and listened to music with my husband in the bar as the train chugged slowly along—a unique charm.

Arriving in Lijiang, we took a ride-hailing car from the parking lot (27.3 RMB / $3.80 USD). Don't believe the touts who say "you can't get a car." Accommodation: Wuxuan · Xiuyuanju (無喧·修缘居), 99.37 RMB + 204.63 RMB ($14 + $28 USD) for two nights. The room was small, the bathroom had a slight mildew smell, but the location inside the ancient city was convenient.

New Year's Eve dinner was at Zhongyi Night Market: pounded chicken feet (45 RMB / $6.30 USD), highland stone flower (25 RMB / $3.50 USD), stir-fried mixed mushrooms (28 RMB / $3.90 USD)... decent but overpriced. We queued for mixed fruit (41 RMB / $5.70 USD) and missed Dali's sour fruit.


Day 7 (February 17, New Year's Day): Lijiang, Baisha Ancient Town's "Silver Bracelet" and the Ancient City's "Crowds"

Keywords: Silver bracelet 1,026 RMB, A Ma Yi group-buy, pushed along Bar Street

Breakfast at 7-Eleven (29.4 RMB / $4.10 USD), then took a tourist shuttle (15 RMB / $2.10 USD) to Baisha Ancient Town. Grilled yak meat skewers (16 RMB / $2.20 USD) were huge and long—great value. Naxi rice cake (纳西米糕, 10 RMB / $1.40 USD) and plain pastry (素饼, 10 RMB / $1.40 USD) were mediocre. We waited an hour for the bus—regretted not taking a taxi.

Lunch: Huo Huo's Broken Shop (火火的破店, 136.5 RMB / $19 USD): Naxi mint ribs—the mint was better than the meat. Mountain wild vegetable stir-fried beef was a unique creation—we cleaned the plate. In the afternoon, we bought a silver bracelet at Cunshi Silver Shop (寸式银器店, 35.4g, 29 RMB/g, total 1,026 RMB / $143 USD). We chose an auspicious cloud pattern, had the jeweler melt it on the spot to verify authenticity, then re-aged it.

Dinner: A Ma Yi (阿妈意, group-buy 192 RMB / $27 USD): pineapple stir-fried shrimp, "Jade Dragon Third Kingdom" (a local dish), fried tofu... business was booming, flavors were on point. Our child picked out a jade chalcedony stone (68 RMB / $9.50 USD), but buying a fridge magnet (5 RMB / $0.70 USD) at a文创店 (creative souvenir shop) was a terrible experience—the clerk hovered and stared.

At night, we walked through Bar Street. It was packed—you didn't need to walk; you were pushed along.


Second Half of the Trip (Days 8–12): Mount Emei, Leshan, Chengdu

Keywords: Mount Emei Golden Summit, Leshan Giant Buddha, Chengdu hotpot

On Day 8, we took a bullet train from Lijiang to Emei, starting the "Buddhist" leg of the trip. The Golden Summit of Mount Emei (峨眉山金顶) offered sea of clouds and the Ten Directions Samantabhadra statue, solemn in the winter sunlight. Day 9: Leshan Giant Buddha (乐山大佛)—the awe of "the mountain is a Buddha, the Buddha is a mountain." Days 10–12: Arrived in Chengdu. We visited Kuanzhai Alley, Jinli Ancient Street, and the Giant Panda Base, ending with a feast at Bashu Dazhaimen Hotpot (巴蜀大宅门火锅)—boiling red oil, tripe, yellow throat (aorta), duck intestines... ate until we were drenched in sweat and satisfaction.


Summary: 12 Days, 9,707 RMB—What This Trip Taught Me

  1. Spring Festival Ticket Strategy: Use 12306 waitlist + Qunar rush simultaneously. The green train dining car "all-inclusive" is a lifesaver for standing-ticket passengers.
  2. Accommodation Tips: In Dali, stay near the ancient city on the west side of Erhai; on the east side, stay in "Ideal State" area. In Lijiang, stay on the edge of the ancient city—quiet and affordable.
  3. Food Rules: Dianping group-buy deals are money-savers, but many restaurants close during Spring Festival—always have backup options.
  4. Packing Advice: Yunnan has big temperature swings between morning and night. Down jacket + wool sweater + thick pants; you can shed the jacket at noon.
  5. Mindset Adjustment: You can skip the attractions, but don't skip the "slow life"—sunbathing, feeding seagulls, eating sour fruit.

This trip had no perfect itinerary—only real experiences. The noise of the green train, the breeze of Erhai Lake, the silver bracelet of Lijiang, the hotpot of Chengdu... every frame is life itself. If you want a "spur-of-the-moment" Southwest loop trip during Spring Festival, remember: Don't rush the road—feel the road.