A Love for Yunnan, Fulfilling the Dream of Lugu Lake: A Promise to the Oriental Matriarchal Kingdom, Two Years in the Making

"The world is vast, and I want to see it" – this phrase has been overused, but those who truly take that step always understand the weight behind it.

In June 2017, our family of three embarked on a journey to Yunnan. This time, it wasn't just about retracing our honeymoon steps. It was about fulfilling a promise buried in my heart for two years: to see the place known as "God's last piece of women's paradise left on earth" – Lugu Lake.

Trip Overview: 6 Days, from Lijiang to Lugu Lake

• June 15: Direct flight from Beijing to Lijiang, overnight in Lijiang Old Town
• June 16: Early morning departure to Lugu Lake, overnight at Lugu Lake
• June 17: Full-day chartered car tour around the lake, overnight at Lugu Lake
• June 18: Continue lake exploration in the morning, return to Lijiang in the afternoon, overnight in Lijiang
• June 19: Stroll through Shuhe Ancient Town, overnight in Lijiang
• June 20: Afternoon flight back to Beijing

I. Lijiang, Long Time No See

At 7:50 AM, the Capital Airlines flight took off on time. Three hours later, we landed at Lijiang Airport. The drive from the airport to the old town took about 30 minutes, and the hotel had already arranged a car to pick us up.

This time, we stayed at a chain inn called "Sanse Yunhe" (Three Colors Cloud River), which has branches in Lijiang, Shuhe, Dali, and Lugu Lake. We chose it not just for convenience, but for that touch of light blue bedding – I have an inexplicable fondness for blue. Even more thoughtful was the complimentary Nongfu Spring water and "Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon" beer. The courtyard had an incredible vibe.

Before departure, the weather forecast predicted rain throughout the trip. Once we arrived, we realized that checking the weather forecast in Lijiang is completely futile – it's never accurate.

I'd heard that Lijiang Old Town charges a maintenance fee of 80 yuan, but we walked through without ever being asked to pay. Whether they actually collect it or not remains a mystery to this day.

Traveling with a child is the most wonderful way to witness his growth. Every trip brings new surprises from Da Rui, our three-and-a-half-year-old. For a child, travel is an irreplaceable classroom for growth.

I recommend a restaurant called "Rumi" (Enchanted), which has two branches in the old town. The ambiance is elegant and the food is delicious. The only thing to note is that due to the high altitude, the local rice tends to be a bit hard, but that didn't diminish our love for their dishes – we ate there two nights in a row.

That night, I was too excited to sleep. But there was another, more practical reason: Yunnan is incredibly dry! I thought Beijing was dry enough, but this place takes it to another level. My throat started bothering me on the very first day, and I woke up thirsty every morning. It was both frustrating and hilarious.

II. First Glimpse of Lugu Lake: That Shade of Blue Was Worth Every Moment of Waiting

From Lijiang to Lugu Lake, there are three transportation options:

1. Bus: 75 yuan per person one way
2. Shared car: 80-100 yuan per person, depending on the vehicle type
3. Chartered car: More expensive, but cost-effective for groups. Our family of three plus two grandparents, five in total, cost 550 yuan for a chartered car (the hotel arranged it and gave us a 50-yuan discount). The driver was skilled and reliable.

Important note: Although a new highway has opened, most of the route is still winding mountain roads, including some old sections. I recommend choosing an SUV or a vehicle with high ground clearance. Regular sedans are prone to scraping the undercarriage and aren't as safe on mountain roads.

We set off at 8:30 AM, and the weather was unbelievably perfect. The driver stopped a few times along the way for restroom breaks (1 yuan each, so bring small change) and photo opportunities. With all the stops, we arrived at Lugu Lake around 1:00 PM – the actual driving time was about 4 hours.

At the winding "Eighteen Bends" viewpoint behind us, there were many fruit vendors. But the driver quietly told us that the fruit there was overpriced and not very good, so it's best not to buy any.

Worried about altitude sickness for kids? It really depends on the individual. At an elevation of around 2,000 meters, most children handle it just fine. Da Rui has been traveling with us since he was little – he sleeps in the car and plays like crazy when we stop. He's even been to Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong, so this short trip was no challenge for him. Besides, with beautiful scenery outside the window, snacks to eat, and chatting to pass the time, the journey flew by.

Just when you can't sit still anymore and start asking, "Are we there yet?" – that shade of blue appears before you, completely out of the blue. In an instant, all fatigue melts away.

Ticket price: 100 yuan per person, children free. Lugu Lake sits on the border between Sichuan and Yunnan. In the past, entry from Sichuan was 80 yuan, and from Yunnan was 100 yuan. I've heard the prices have now been standardized.

After entering the scenic area gate, the driver stops for about 20 minutes. This observation deck is the best spot to take in the panoramic view of Lugu Lake – don't miss it.

Looking into the distance, there's an island in the lake shaped like a crocodile. The locals call it "Crocodile Island." At the tip of the crocodile's mouth, there's a small round island that supposedly looks like a turtle being swallowed by the crocodile – though I couldn't quite see it myself.

III. Day and Night in Daluoshui

Most accommodations around Lugu Lake are concentrated in Daluoshui and Lige. Daluoshui is the earliest developed village and the liveliest. We stayed at the Sanse Yunhe Inn in Daluoshui, booking a third-floor luxury lake-view suite with a living room and a small balcony. Lying on the balcony lounge chair, the entire lake view unfolded before us – pure bliss.

The scenery was stunning, the lake water was clear, and the accommodation was comfortable. My only complaint was the food. To be honest, the hygiene conditions there made me a bit uneasy. Locals told me the water from Lugu Lake is drinkable, but I saw with my own eyes people washing their feet in the lake, and others washing vegetables... Out of sight, out of mind, but once you've seen it, it's hard to ignore.

Still, we couldn't go three days without eating. I found a restaurant on Dianping (China's Yelp) called "Impression Lakeside Fine Dining," located on the second floor near the Daluoshui parking lot (the first floor was under renovation, so go straight up). The place was clean, served mainly Sichuan cuisine, and offered great value for money. If you're staying in Daluoshui, give it a try.

After a good meal, logically, it was time for a nap. But with such beautiful scenery right outside, sleeping would have been a waste. I dragged both grandmothers along, grabbed my son, and headed straight to the dock.

About the lake tour: A chartered car costs 300 yuan per day for a minivan. Bicycles and electric scooters are also available, but from a safety perspective, I recommend the chartered car.

We arrived at Lugu Lake in the afternoon, so a full day of touring wasn't practical. On the first day, we decided not to rush through attractions. Instead, we just wandered around the Daluoshui dock and the area near our hotel. As it turned out, the most beautiful scenery is often right at your doorstep.

As the sun set, it was dinner time again. About 150 meters to the right of our hotel, there was a hotpot fish restaurant that was decent. When eating here, it's best not to be too picky – after all, this isn't the city.

Adults can make do, but children can't. Whenever we travel with Da Rui, we always bring two essential items: a portable rice cooker and a supply of staples (rice and noodles). If the local food doesn't suit him, we can cook some noodles or porridge.

Friendly tip: When traveling with children, try not to let them drink the local water. Buy bottled or purified water for them instead. You can never be too careful about preventing digestive issues from unfamiliar water.

And so ended our first day at Lugu Lake. Thinking about the full-day tour the next day, I was too excited to sleep.

Then... I finally fell asleep at 1:00 AM, only to wake up at 5:00 AM – yes, my throat was bothering me again, and I woke up thirsty. I pulled back the curtains, and it was pitch black outside. By this time, it should be getting light in Beijing, right? Here, not only does it get dark later, but the sunrise is also later.

IV. Fulfilling the Dream of the Lake Tour: Taking Photos for Dear Life

I dragged myself out of bed, washed up, and tried to shake off the drowsiness. Before coming to Lugu Lake, I had booked a photographer in advance – looking back, that was an incredibly smart decision.

Although my husband works in the photography industry, he started experiencing altitude sickness on our first day at Lugu Lake. Professionals say that people who exercise regularly are more susceptible to altitude sickness at high elevations. No wonder! This guy used to work out and swim every day... But honestly, with his build, who would believe he's that fit? Haha. Meanwhile, those of us who barely exercise were the lucky ones.

Regardless, five days after returning to Beijing from Lugu Lake, I received the sample photos from the photographer, and I became even more certain: hiring a photographer was absolutely the right call.

Goddess Gemu Mountain, at over 3,700 meters above sea level, is the highest peak surrounding Lugu Lake. There's a series of myths and legends associated with this mountain, making it seem particularly sacred. To climb it, you need to take a cable car from Nisai Village. Since we had our child with us this time, we didn't go up – a bit of a regret. But every trip needs a few regrets, a few things left undone, so you'll have a reason to return without hesitation.

We left at 9:00 AM and didn't return until 7:00 PM. After a whole day, all of us were completely exhausted.

Despite the scorching sun, we persevered and completed our planned lake tour – give ourselves a thumbs up!

Climbing to the top of a hill, sitting on the rocks, one wrong step and you'd fall into the lake below. Thinking about it now, it's quite terrifying. The rocks were so hard they hurt my bottom, but with the stunning scenery behind me, I had to keep smiling. The photographer said, "We're taking photos for dear life." I thought to myself, "Yeah, no kidding."

There was one place – I can't remember its name – but the moment I climbed to the top, I was completely stunned by the view before me.

The Walking Marriage Bridge, surrounded by a vast sea of lush green grass in June. I'd heard a legend before coming: if lovers walk across this bridge hand in hand, it's best not to reach the very end, for fear that their destiny might also come to an end. Whether it's true or not, we took photos, enjoyed the scenery, walked most of the way, and left a small section untouched – haha, I'm so superstitious!

V. The Enchanting Beauty of Lugu Lake, Goodbye

Waking up naturally is truly a blessing. Opening my eyes to find that the grandmothers had already prepared breakfast was pure satisfaction.

We had to return to Lijiang in the afternoon, but we still had most of the day to linger by the lake. After three days at Lugu Lake, aside from taking photos on a pig trough boat (a traditional wooden boat), we hadn't actually gone for a proper boat ride. Not riding a pig trough boat would mean you've come in vain. Tickets were 50 yuan and 70 yuan, depending on the distance. We chose the 50-yuan option, a one-hour round trip, purely for the experience.

But just as we were less than halfway across the lake, a large dark cloud swept toward us. Rain came – drip, drop. We were completely unprepared. The one day we forgot to bring an umbrella, and of course, we got caught in the rain. It wasn't heavy, but it was still bone-chillingly cold.

A special thank you to a young couple who lent us their umbrella while they used life jackets to shield themselves from the rain. Because of their kindness, Da Rui didn't get wet. There are still good people in this world! The moment I received that umbrella, my heart felt so warm.

40 minutes later, the rain stopped, and the sky immediately cleared. The weather here is truly fickle. Since we were leaving Lugu Lake that day, the rain seemed to carry a special meaning – "Rain keeps guests from leaving." Lugu Lake, were you trying to hold us back?

Around 3:00 PM, the driver came to pick us up. With a mix of reluctance, we said goodbye to Lugu Lake.

During my few days here, I kept thinking: Lugu Lake is not a place to rush through. It's a place you don't want to leave once you arrive, and a place you'll always think about even after you've gone.

On the return trip, there was no more chatter – only the sound of everyone snoring. When I opened my eyes again, the familiar mountains appeared before us. Lijiang, we're back.

We arrived at the hotel around 8:00 PM. Seeing that the grandmothers had no intention of going out, I snuck away, leaving the kid with my husband, and took a stroll through the old town. Maybe it's because I'm young and energetic, but after several days, I still didn't feel tired.

Lijiang Old Town – this was my second visit. Five years later, almost nothing had changed. Summer vacation hadn't started yet, so during the day, there were few people, and shops opened late. At night, the streets were bustling with traffic and lively crowds. Don't think all the businesses are run by locals – most are actually run by people from Sichuan, along with some migrant workers from other places.

We stumbled into a Chongqing noodle shop. The owner was very friendly and started chatting with us. When the conversation turned to local Yunnan dishes like Naxi grilled fish, Lijiang cured pork ribs, and steam pot chicken, the owner had his own opinions: "How could truly authentic dishes be found in the old town? With all this commercialism, what genuine local food would you find here?" The owner certainly wasn't afraid to speak his mind. But his words reminded me of Beijing – when tourists come to Beijing, the most authentic snacks and best restaurants aren't in Wangfujing or Qianmen. But how would out-of-towners know that? The same principle probably applies in Yunnan. Anyway, it was just casual conversation – take it with a grain of salt.

There's a wax museum in Lijiang Old Town. The first floor is free, and the second floor charges admission. The Bill Gates wax figure was the most lifelike.

VI. Shuhe Ancient Town: Time Slows Down

The remaining time was for Lijiang. Someone was feeling unwell from altitude sickness and stayed in the room to rest. We were going to visit Shuhe Ancient Town.

It took about 20 minutes by taxi from Lijiang Old Town to Shuhe. The locals told us not to enter through the main gate but to go in from the back – the back entrance is free. Thanks to the locals' advice, we saved enough for a meal, haha.

Shuhe Ancient Town is much quieter than Lijiang Old Town, and the commercialization isn't as intense. The local specialties seem to be yak horn combs and shawls – every street and every shop had them. But that was fine; I was worried about what to bring back for colleagues in Beijing, and now I had everything sorted.

When in Shuhe, you should check out the Nine Cauldron Dragon Pool. Honestly, it's just a pool of water.

I wanted to take my son horseback riding, but the horses I saw were all too thin and small. I couldn't bear to ride them, so we just strolled around instead.

Shuhe Ancient Town isn't very big; you can explore it in a few hours. That grand stage was so familiar to me – I still have photos from five years ago. Only this time, when I visited again, there was one more person by my side.

We really had perfect timing – we wandered out of the old town right during Lijiang's rush hour. Luckily, the distance wasn't far, and this isn't Beijing, so there wasn't much traffic, haha.

We girls had a carefree day, but there was still one "poor soul" at the hotel who hadn't eaten. I quickly took my husband out for dinner, and we strolled through the old town again, grabbing some desserts – we were heading home tomorrow.

While wandering through the old town, I found a very interesting shop. After the owner explained, I finally learned something about Dongba culture. Dongba script is a writing system used by the Nakhi people, an ethnic minority in eastern Tibet and northern Yunnan. Very few people can write Dongba script nowadays. We bought a book for ourselves and asked the owner to inscribe it by hand as a keepsake.

Does anyone recognize Dongba script? Care to translate for us?

Just as we were about to head back to the hotel, the rain came again. I've noticed that every time I'm about to leave, the rain starts. If I had another 7 days of vacation, I would definitely stay a few more days.

Final Thoughts: Leaving the Most Beautiful Memories for Lugu Lake

I didn't realize I'd written so much, but I still have so much to say about Yunnan and Lugu Lake.

This travelogue was a promise I made to myself before we left. I've been to many places this year, but the most beautiful one had to be dedicated to Lugu Lake. Not just because I'd been longing to see it for two years, but because such a beautiful place deserves to be recorded. I was afraid that as time passed, my memories would slowly fade.

Fortunately, while my memories are still intact, I've preserved my impressions of Lugu Lake completely.

Every glance is a painting; every step leads to paradise.

This phrase is the perfect description of Lugu Lake.

Practical Tips Summary

1. Transportation: From Lijiang to Lugu Lake, I recommend a chartered or shared car. Choose an SUV for safer travel on winding mountain roads.
2. Accommodation: Daluoshui is the liveliest, while Lige is quieter. A lake-view room is worth the experience.
3. Food: The "Impression Lakeside Fine Dining" in Daluoshui is clean and delicious. If traveling with children, consider bringing a portable rice cooker and some staples.
4. Lake Tour: A chartered car costs 300 yuan per day and is safer than bicycles or electric scooters.
5. Photography: Book a photographer in advance to capture beautiful memories.
6. Combat Dryness: Bring plenty of moisturizing skincare products and drink lots of water.
7. Traveling with Children: Bring bottled water to prevent digestive issues; pay attention to sun protection and altitude sickness.