Escaping Nanning, Falling Under Lijiang's Spell: Our Four-Person, Ten-Day Yunnan Dream

Before We Set Off: No Pain, No Obsession

Have you ever had that impulse—suddenly tired of the office fluorescent lights, the crush of the subway, the endless parade of identical takeout boxes, and just wanting to throw a bag over your shoulder and head somewhere you can actually see the sky?

In November 2010, that's exactly what the four of us—myself, Lan, Double Kai—did. We left Nanning, flew to Kunming, caught an overnight train, and headed west, destination: Lijiang.

We weren't seasoned travelers. We didn't have some perfectly crafted itinerary. We just felt that sometimes life needs a little bit of that "poisoned" feeling—being so captivated by a place's beauty that you willingly surrender to it.

Ten days. An average cost of 2,600 RMB per person. Doesn't sound like much, but every single yuan went toward moments that made our hearts skip.

Trip Overview: Ten Days, Three Cities, One Dream

Our Route

Transportation Guide: How to Get from Nanning to Lijiang on a Budget

Planes + Trains: The Sweet Spot Between Saving Money and Time

The most economical way from Nanning to Lijiang isn't a direct flight—it's the "flight + overnight train" combo. We booked a 7:40 PM flight to Kunming, landed at 8:30, and seamlessly caught the 10:20 PM overnight train to Lijiang.

Here's the insider tip: This overnight train only sells seated tickets (around 70 RMB) to the general public. Sleeper berths are essentially monopolized by travel agencies. We called in a favor and got a four-person hard sleeper compartment for 600 RMB—150 RMB per person. More expensive than a seat, sure, but it saved us a night's accommodation and kept our schedule tight.

Practical Advice: If you want that overnight sleeper, get someone to hook you up in advance. Otherwise, you'll likely end up at the station with no berth options.

Local Transport Tips

• Lijiang → Lugu Lake: Round-trip tickets, 130 RMB/person. Roads were under construction back then, turning a 6-hour drive into 8 hours
• Lijiang → Shangri-La: Round-trip tickets, 125 RMB/person, about 4 hours
• Lugu Lake loop: Car rental, 20 RMB/person; bike rental, 15 RMB/person
• Tandem bike rental in Lijiang: Two bikes for 35 RMB total

Accommodation Picks: From 50 to 150 RMB, Every Night Tells a Story

Lijiang: Happiness Inn

Our first stop was "Mishi Inn"—50 RMB a night, but the place was mediocre and the service unfriendly. We switched to "Happiness Inn" at 120 RMB per night and stayed two nights. It had a heated bathroom, and the courtyard was stocked with fruit and candy that the owner had laid out for guests. The only small downside: the water pressure on the second floor was weak, so showers weren't as satisfying as we'd hoped.

Lugu Lake: Colorful Lige—The Best Stay of the Trip

We changed accommodations three times around Lugu Lake:

• Lige Blossom Youth Hostel: 60 RMB. The shower was so weak it was maddening.
• Dazui Village Wandering Tribe: 66 RMB. Great atmosphere, the common area had real character.
• Lige Colorful Lige: 150 RMB. This was the most comfortable place we stayed the entire trip. Hot water was plentiful, there was a heated bathroom, and showering was an actual pleasure. From the window, we could see the lake in the distance—not directly waterfront, but more than enough.

About Lake-View Rooms: In the off-season, ground-floor waterfront rooms run about 280 RMB, second-floor ones about 180 RMB. If you're on a budget, non-waterfront rooms are totally fine. Lugu Lake's beauty isn't something you only see from your hotel window.

Shangri-La: Yongshengyuan Inn

50 RMB a night, right at the entrance to the old town. The owner was incredibly warm and made us a bowl of 过桥米线 (crossing-the-bridge rice noodles) for just 5 RMB. Same problem here: weak shower water. It seems to be a common curse of high-altitude accommodations.

Food Map: We Tried Every One of Lijiang's "Eighteen Strange Delicacies"

Lijiang Must-Eat List

鸡豆凉粉 (chickpea jelly noodles): Sold for 8 RMB a bowl at the entrance, but if you walk further into Sifang Street, you can get it for 3 RMB. Remember: the deeper you go, the cheaper it gets.

纳西烤鱼 (Naxi-style grilled fish): We had it at "Gold Coast"—genuinely tasty.

腊排骨 (smoked pork ribs): Yujie's Smoked Ribs—authentic flavor, worth trying.

洋芋鸡 (potato chicken): Sounds simple—it's just chicken with potatoes—but Yunnan's potatoes are something else. Nutty, fragrant, and satisfying.

Various snacks: Glutinous rice balls, grilled quail, walnut cakes, purple sweet potato cakes, all kinds of pancakes... We basically worked our way through every street stall in Sifang Street.

Lugu Lake: Mosuo Flavors

We had Lamm's BBQ in Lige—authentic Mosuo cuisine. The most unforgettable was 猪膘肉 (cured pork belly)—pure, unapologetic fatty pork. Greasy as hell, but it's a local specialty. Also unforgettable: the silverfish freshly caught from the lake—tiny, silvery, and incredibly fresh.

Shangri-La: Highland Tastes

Yak meat, 青稞馍馍 (highland barley flatbread), and 安多馍馍 (Amdo-style flatbread). I especially loved the barley flatbread—chewy, with a faint natural sweetness.

A Special Note

There's a dish called "水性阳花" (waterborne sunflowers), made from a nationally protected plant. Some restaurants still serve it, but please don't order it. Protecting those beautiful flowers matters more than a momentary craving.

Deep Dive into the Sights: What's Worth It and What You Can Skip

Lugu Lake: The Biggest Surprise of the Trip

The Brutal Truth About Weather: Lugu Lake's beauty is 90% dependent on the sky. On our first day, it was overcast, the lake was a dull gray, and we genuinely wondered if we'd made a mistake coming here. Then a heavy rain swept through overnight, washing away all the gloom. The next day, under a blue sky, Lugu Lake was breathtaking.

The Loop Route: Lige → Nisai Village → Xiaoluoshui Village → Dazui Village → Caohai (Grass Sea) → Zhaojiawan

Zhaojiawan: This is the best spot to appreciate Lugu Lake. Unless you specifically ask your driver, they usually won't take you there. The weather was bad the first time we went, but even then, the scenery was so quiet—quiet enough to hear your own heartbeat.

Nisai Village's Lover Trees: Two massive trees that look like a pair of lovers—an iconic Lugu Lake landmark.

Caohai (Grass Sea): In summer, it's a vibrant green sea of life. In autumn, it turns golden, with a melancholic beauty of passing seasons.

Boat Ride: Locals call it "pig-trough boats." 30 RMB per person to row out to the island in the middle of the lake. The boatman will ask if you want to circle the island—10 RMB extra per person. That island straddles Sichuan and Yunnan provinces—Lugu Lake is half in Sichuan, half in Yunnan.

Shuhe Ancient Town: How to Get in for Free

Online guides all say you can enter Shuhe through the back gate without paying. The back gate is about 100 meters from the main entrance, at a fork in the road near what looks like a factory. There's a small shop—take the path beside it, and you're at the back gate. Ignore the touts outside claiming they can get you in for 10 RMB. You don't need to spend a single yuan.

Qingxi Reservoir: An Unexpected Delight

We stumbled upon this while biking toward the snow mountains. At first, we just noticed a high staircase by the roadside with people climbing up and a "No Swimming" sign nearby. Curiosity got the better of us, and we followed. What unfolded was a stunning scene: people swimming in the clear water, snow-capped mountains in the distance, and a small reservoir that was unexpectedly beautiful.

Songzanlin Monastery: Faith on a Grey Day

The day we went was overcast, no sun, and the monastery was under renovation, with scaffolding and cables everywhere. But the sense of solemnity remained. Entrance fee: 85 RMB. With a student ID, it dropped to 55 RMB.

Potatso National Park: The Least Worthwhile 190 RMB

Strong Advice: If you've already been to Lugu Lake, skip Potatso. The entrance fee is 190 RMB, and the student discount has strict conditions—only full-time students under 24 qualify for the half-price rate of 135 RMB. Of the four of us, only Kaikai met the criteria.

That day, there was no sunlight, no blue sky. The lake at Potatso looked lifeless. We all felt it wasn't worth the money. Maybe because Lugu Lake had already shown us what truly "enchanting water" looks like, Potatso just couldn't compete.

Money-Saving Secrets: Student IDs, Touts, and Hidden Passages

Student ID: Save Where You Can

We got student IDs made beforehand, and they paid off: - Lugu Lake entrance: 78 RMB original, 39 RMB with discount - Songzanlin Monastery: 85 RMB original, 55 RMB with discount - Potatso: 190 RMB original, 135 RMB for eligible students (under 24, full-time)

Where do you get a student ID if you're not a student? Taobao, touts, various channels. Don't ask me where—they're everywhere.

Shuhe Ancient Town: The Back Gate Route

As mentioned, entering through the back gate is completely free. That piece of information alone is worth at least 50 RMB (the ticket price).

Sifang Street Shopping Principle

The further in you go, the cheaper things get. That 8 RMB bowl of 鸡豆凉粉 (chickpea jelly noodles) at the entrance? 3 RMB deeper in. Look around, walk a bit, then decide.

Final Thoughts: Lijiang Is a Kind of Poison

The ten-day trip ended, and we returned to Nanning. But I knew I'd been "poisoned"—infected by Lijiang.

That poison was Lugu Lake's brilliant blue under a clear sky. It was the back-alley path into Shuhe Ancient Town. It was the swimmers in Qingxi Reservoir. It was the warm, steady stream of water under the heated bathroom at Colorful Lige.

The Lijiang trip was, by nature, spontaneous and leisurely. We didn't plan much. We just wandered wherever felt right, lingered where it was beautiful, and stayed where it was comfortable. I fell in love with Lijiang's impossibly blue sky, with curling up lazily on a sofa and soaking up the sun.

Beautiful scenery needs to be felt with the heart, experienced with all your senses. As long as you feel happy and at peace, it's the best journey there is.

Finally, a few tips for anyone heading to Lijiang:

1. Weather is everything: Lugu Lake's beauty is severely diminished without blue skies. Pick your season wisely, and pray for good weather.
2. Plan your transport ahead: Overnight train sleeper berths aren't sold to the public. You need a connection to get one.
3. A student ID is a magic wand: It'll save you a lot of money, but watch out for age restrictions at places like Potatso.
4. Walk a little further: The back gate of Shuhe, the depths of Sifang Street, the hidden reservoir—the best sights are often in the most unassuming places.
5. Don't overdo it: If you've been to Lugu Lake, skip Potatso. Rather than rushing from sight to sight, find one place and just... be there.

May your Lijiang journey also leave you beautifully "poisoned."