A Pilgrimage of One: A 12-Day Journey of Self-Redemption Across Yunnan

Foreword: When Life Becomes Nothing but Escape

Have you ever had that moment—when love shatters, work collapses, and every day feels like drowning, with even your breath carrying pain?

In September 2012, I was that girl. Outwardly, I looked invincible, but inside, I was already riddled with wounds. During those days, tears became routine, and heart palpitations became my daily norm. Until one day, I looked at myself in the mirror and said: "Either die, or live. If you choose to live, you have to drag yourself out of this quagmire."

No one can save you but yourself.

So, I bought a plane ticket to Yunnan. No travel guide, no plan—I didn't even wait for my boss to approve my leave. I only knew one thing: I had to go. As Li Yuchun's song goes: "If we don't go wild now, we'll be old before we know it."

The Anxiety and Miracle Before Departure

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't scared about traveling alone for the first time. But I reached out to a few fellow travelers on Mafengwo—the first was Fenglin from Beijing, a guy so kind it was almost unbelievable. The day we met, his sincerity made me realize: the outside world isn't that terrifying. As long as you open your heart, good luck will find you.

The day before departure, Fenglin finally returned from his solo trek through the Dulong River region, a no-man's land. That phone call felt like a beam of light shining into my heart. On September 22, 2012, I stood in front of the mirror with a 20-pound backpack on my shoulders and saw the person who had been sleeping inside me for years—a free spirit longing for mountains, rivers, lakes, and seas, craving a life of drifting clouds and gentle breezes.

My Packing List: - Three sets of clothes - A DSLR camera - Printed Mafengwo travel guides - Water bottle, hat, travel-sized cosmetics

That's it. It's not like I was going on Man vs. Wild. If I needed something, I'd buy it there.

Day 1: Beijing → Kunming, the First Warmth

On the plane, I went crazy snapping photos of the clouds outside the window—they looked like cotton candy, so beautiful it made my heart ache. This little act led me to meet Nami, a girl from Kunming who worked at Peking University. She asked if I could send her the photos, and we just started chatting.

After landing, Nami warmly said her brother was picking her up and would "drop me off" at the train station. Later, I realized it was anything but a drop-off—they took a huge detour just for me. At that moment, I was convinced: the universe had given me a green light. Meeting good people right out of the gate was the best sign.

Standing alone at Kunming Train Station that night, I felt a bit creeped out. But soon, I saw backpackers everywhere—people carrying big packs like me filled every corner. Someone spread their arms and shouted, "Lijiang! I'm back!" In that moment, I knew I belonged here.

Near the station, I grabbed a bowl of "old-brand" Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles (guoqiao mixian) for 10 yuan. Honestly, it was so bad I only managed two bites before giving up—I later learned that most so-called "local delicacies" in tourist areas are overhyped.

I boarded the overnight train from Kunming to Lijiang, a nine-hour ride. Most of the journey went through tunnels, with the longest stretch lasting over an hour. Instead of worrying about cave-ins, I figured I'd better just sleep.

Day 2: First Sight of Lijiang, This "Third World"

Seven in the morning at Lijiang Train Station. I took a deep breath—God, the air here was so clean it didn't feel real! The sky was a transparent blue, and the wide-open views made me want to shout.

Fenglin bounced off the bus to pick me up, proving his "save money first" philosophy. We checked into the "Heroic Traveler Inn," a two-story loft for 128 yuan a night. After dropping my bags and changing into a flowery skirt that fit the vibe, I officially began my Lijiang exploration.

The Truth About Lijiang: - The old town is filled with flowers, flowing streams, and sunbathing dogs - The legendary "Lijiang baba" (a local flatbread) isn't actually good—many "local foods" are just marketing hype - Sifang Street, the Big Waterwheel, and the Dongba Wishing Wind Bells are must-visit landmarks - The thing I hated most were the "monkeys" that trick you into taking photos for 20 yuan—if you don't have exact change, they'll pretend they can't break a 100

That evening, I wandered the old town with two girls in their 90s from the inn. We saw alpacas (photo op: 10 yuan), ate at a stir-fry restaurant. Honestly, traveling was more exhausting than work—waking up at 6 a.m. every day—but my mood was joyful. Compared to dragging myself to work with a funeral-like mentality, being a little tired was nothing.

Day 3-4: Tiger Leaping Gorge → Shangri-La, Our "Post-80s and Post-90s Crew"

Let me introduce my travel companions—seven born in the 80s and two in the 90s, from all over China, all traveling solo, all either quitting or in the process of quitting their jobs. Our karma was so good that we saw the golden sunrise on Meili Snow Mountain two days in a row!

Tiger Leaping Gorge: Raging Waters and Courage The rapids at Middle Tiger Leaping were breathtaking. The legendary Tiger Leaping Rock sat in the middle of the river—they say a tiger once jumped across from here to the other side. Our ragtag group of "shrimp soldiers and crab generals" was gasping for air climbing the stairs, but standing at the edge of the gorge made every bit of exhaustion worth it.

Shangri-La: Moonlight City and Altitude Sickness As we entered Shangri-La, at an altitude of over 3,000 meters, altitude sickness started to kick in—walking up stairs too fast made my heart race and my head pour with sweat. But the grasslands, the wolfsbane flowers, and the Mani stone piles were so beautiful they looked like paintings.

The giant prayer wheel at Moonlight City was enormous, taking over a dozen people to turn it. Prayer flags fluttered in the wind, inscribed with the six-syllable mantra. Tibetans believe that every time the wind blows a flag, it's like reciting the scripture once.

The most unforgettable thing was the dog that followed us the whole way—from the entrance of Moonlight City to the exit, up and down, never leaving our side. If only I could have packed you on the plane, I would have adopted you!

The Lesson of Yak Yogurt: Curiosity killed the cat. I bought a cup of yak yogurt for 5 yuan, and the moment I drank it, my stomach cramped up so badly I almost had an accident in my pants. This kind of naturally fermented yogurt is a no-go for anyone with a weak stomach—it's stronger than laxatives.

Day 5-6: Songzanlin Monastery, the Shock of a Mini Potala Palace

We bought tickets and hopped on a bumpy bus that tossed us around so much we nearly hit the ceiling—but the moment we saw Songzanlin Monastery, all the discomfort vanished.

The sky was an unreal blue, the golden rooftops sparkled in the sunlight, and the entire monastery stood solemn and majestic. My clumsy photography skills couldn't capture even a fraction of the awe.

The guide at the entrance was full of energy, lecturing us on Tibetan burial customs—stupa burial, sky burial, earth burial, cremation, water burial—and even threw in a quiz with prizes. It was so fascinating it felt like listening to Journey to the West.

Day 7-8: Hiking into Yubeng, Body in Hell, Eyes in Heaven

(Note: The original text doesn't go into detail about Yubeng, but based on the title and itinerary, this was one of the trip's highlights.)

Yubeng, this isolated village, can only be reached on foot. We carried our packs and trekked through primeval forests, with muddy paths underfoot and the sounds of birds and streams in our ears. The altitude climbed higher, making it harder to breathe, but with every step, the scenery grew more stunning.

Meili Snow Mountain loomed right before us, so close it felt like we could reach out and touch it. That morning, we witnessed the "Golden Mountain" sunrise—golden light spilling over the snowy peaks in a beauty so intense it made you want to cry.

Day 9-10: Meili Snow Mountain, a Pilgrimage

At Feilai Temple, we waited two mornings and finally saw the complete golden sunrise on the mountain. In that moment, every step of the journey was worth it. Fenglin said, "Only people with good karma get to see this." I think it's because all of us came with sincerity.

Day 11-12: Lugu Lake, the Final Tenderness

From Meili Snow Mountain to Lugu Lake, the road was bumpy all the way. But the beauty of Lugu Lake washed away all the fatigue—the water was blue as a gem, pig-trough boats drifted across the surface, and the songs of the Mosuo people echoed in the wind.

We cycled along the lakeshore, watched the sunrise and sunset, and ate grilled fish. In that moment, I felt like I had come back to life.

Conclusion: Going Out, to Come Back

A 12-day journey, from Lijiang to Tiger Leaping Gorge, from Shangri-La to Yubeng, from Meili Snow Mountain to Lugu Lake. I met so many kind people—Nami, Fenglin, every member of the "Post-80s and Post-90s Crew." They made me believe that the world isn't so scary. As long as you open your heart, good luck will find you.

What This Trip Taught Me: 1. Go out, and you'll find answers—When you're stuck in place, you think the sky is falling. Step outside, and you realize the world is vast, and your problems are small. 2. Good people outnumber the bad—Don't let fear stop you from trusting. Trust is a two-way street. 3. Your body can be tired, but your heart must be free—Waking up early, hiking, dealing with altitude sickness—none of it matters as much as the joy in your heart. 4. Travel isn't escape; it's recharging—After I got back, I quit my job and started over. Those 12 days were the turning point of my life.

Let me end with this line: "Either travel, or read. Your body and soul must have at least one on the road."

I chose travel. What about you?

Practical Tips: - Take the overnight train from Kunming to Lijiang—it saves both time and money - Most "local delicacies" in tourist areas are overhyped; find where locals eat instead - Shangri-La is over 3,000 meters above sea level; prepare Rhodiola rosea in advance - Yak yogurt is not for people with weak stomachs—drink with caution - Seeing the golden sunrise on Meili Snow Mountain requires good karma; plan to stay a few extra days - For the Yubeng hike, bring professional hiking boots and trekking poles

A girl's first solo journey, 12 days, from breakdown to rebirth. If you're also in a low place, remember: step outside, and you'll find your way out.