A Six-Day Journey Through Yunnan: No Matter How Many Times I Return, I Will Always Love You as Before

Some say travel is a reunion with yourself. Ten years ago, I was a teenager, hurriedly passing through Yunnan in my mother's footsteps. All that remained in my memory was the dizziness of altitude sickness, the rustic taste of yak meat, and the smoky scent of grilled fish. The languor and charm that countless people had praised felt like looking through frosted glass—blurry and distant. It wasn't until this time, when I set foot on this land again, that I finally understood: the scenery was always there; I just hadn't been ready to truly meet it back then.

Itinerary at a Glance: Chasing the Distant Horizons in Limited Time

The map of Yunnan is like a carefully designed travel chessboard. Lijiang is the pivotal piece—200 kilometers south lies Dali, and 200 kilometers north lies Lugu Lake. So, my six-day itinerary unfolded like this:

• Day 1: Arrive at Lijiang Airport at noon, head straight to Dayan Old Town, and reunite with the past
• Day 2–3: Head south to Dali, experience the "wind, flowers, snow, and moon" of Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, and enjoy the wild romance of a jeep tour around the lake with photo shoots
• Day 4–5: Head north to Lugu Lake, alternating between rain and clear skies, and bask in nature's purest gifts
• Day 6: Return to Lijiang, ascend Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, watch Impression Lijiang, then fly back to Beijing from Lijiang Airport

Lijiang's Slow Time: This Time, I'm Truly Ready

In a letter to his daughter, Yang Zhao wrote: "When you were three years old, you went to Kyoto and saw the maple leaves, but your senses and memory weren't ready yet, so the beauty of the maple leaves couldn't form a deep connection with your life." I was reading this passage while sitting in a guesthouse in Lijiang's old town, sunlight streaming through the wooden window onto my face. Ten years ago, I was probably that "unready" child.

This time, I stayed at "Joyful Journey · Colorful Courtyard." The young man who picked us up was named Joy—and he lived up to his name, warm like Lijiang's sunshine. The guesthouse wasn't large, but it had a reassuring sense of belonging—a wooden structure with flowers in the courtyard and tea sets in the corners, as if saying: Don't rush, take it slow.

As dusk fell, I slipped into a small shop called "Ali Li." I ordered a plate of grilled fish and was savoring it when a little head suddenly poked in through the window—a stray cat, staring at me with longing eyes. I gave it a piece of fish, and it ate quickly. Soon, the plate was empty. I gave it another piece, and it ate again, until the plate was gone. I spread my hands and said, "There's really no more," and it reluctantly left. In that moment, I suddenly felt that Lijiang's gentleness hides in these unplanned moments.

At night, the old town belongs to postcards and flower cakes. Ten yuan for three rose-flower cakes (roses-filled pastries), still warm from the oven. Bite into one, and the crispy crust crumbles, filling your mouth with floral fragrance. Ten years ago, flower cakes weren't popular; now they're a must-buy souvenir. Time has changed many things, but some things—like Lijiang's slow pace—remain the same.

Dali: Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon—A Love Letter to the Sky

The drive from Lijiang to Dali takes only two hours, but it feels like stepping from one ink-wash painting into another oil painting.

Jeep Tour Around the Lake with Photo Shoots: Scattering Youth on the Shores of Erhai

The most surprising experience this time was taking an open-top jeep around Erhai Lake for a photo shoot. The 368-yuan-per-person shared package included a professional photographer and free costume rental. The jeep was a vintage military model, and with the top down, the wind rushed in, messing up my hair, but my heart felt utterly free.

The trendy glass balls and white tables by Erhai Lake are every girl's photo paradise. I brought two outfits of my own and laughed, jumped, and ran in front of the camera. My boyfriend's photography skills have always been "touching," so this time I handed the camera to the photographer—sure enough, leave professional work to professionals. In the photos, I stand by the lake, with the azure water, distant Cangshan Mountain, and the golden light of sunset painting everything behind me.

Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake: Time Stands Still at That Moment

At six in the morning, I walked alone to the shore of Erhai Lake. A thin mist hung over the water, and occasionally a small boat glided by, the sound of oars startling a few water birds. The sun slowly rose, first painting the outlines of distant mountains red, then a beam of light pierced through the peaks, scattering onto the lake like a handful of scattered gold.

Cangshan Mountain has nineteen peaks and eighteen streams, stretching 50 kilometers, with its highest peak, Malong Peak, reaching 4,122 meters. Taking the cable car up and looking down at Erhai Lake from the Cloud Tour Path, the entire Dali unfolds before your eyes. In that moment, time seemed to stand still, leaving only the sound of my heartbeat and the wind.

Dali Old Town: A Thousand Years of Hammering

Walking into Dali Old Town, the first thing that caught my eye was a silver craftsman hammering by the street. "A thousand years of small hammer strikes"—this saying refers to the Bai people's silver craftsmanship. Snake-bone chains, twisted bracelets, carved earrings—each piece is as exquisite as a work of art. When a Bai girl gets married, her family prepares a set of silver jewelry as her dowry, and these four pieces are essential.

The snacks in the old town are also unforgettable. Grilled milk fan (ru shan), made from fresh milk and edible acid into thin sheets, dried and then grilled, has a rich milky flavor and a texture somewhat like Hong Kong's silk-stocking milk tea. And those skewers (chuan chuan), priced at 3–5 yuan each—tripe, duck intestines, mushrooms—spicy and flavorful, leaving you wanting ten more.

Lugu Lake: Boating on Blue Waves, Traveling in a Painting

The drive from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is a winding mountain road, bumpy all the way. But when that expanse of azure suddenly appears before your eyes, all fatigue vanishes.

Slow Time on a Pig-Trough Boat

The TV show Dear Inn made the pig-trough boat (zhūcáo chuán) a social media hit, but when you actually sit in one, you realize its beauty goes far beyond the lens. The lake water is so clear you can see water plants swaying at the bottom. Flocks of red-billed gulls flutter around the boat, occasionally landing on the bow, tilting their heads to look at you. The Mosuo girl rowing the boat sings a love song, and her voice drifts across the lake, as free as the wind.

Grass Sea and Grilled Fish: A Feast for the Taste Buds

The golden water plants of the Grass Sea wetland, combined with the blue lake, white gulls, and yellow pig-trough boats, create a colorful oil painting. But the biggest surprise was the grilled fish here—translucent, tender, and the most delicious fish I've ever eaten. Even now, thinking of that taste makes me swallow involuntarily.

Bonfire Party: The Warmth of the Mosuo People

At eight in the evening, the bonfire party begins on time. The Mosuo women are tall and strong, singing with powerful voices. During the audience participation segment, if a female volunteer steps up, several Mosuo men lift her and toss her into the air; if a male volunteer steps up, the Mosuo women lift him. I joined the crowd for a group dance—the steps were simple: walk three steps, kick your foot, and shake your hand. But as the host's rhythm quickened, I was practically dragged along, running. Finally, during the song duel, everyone shouted together, "Yah so yah so yah yah so," so loud it rattled my eardrums, but my heart felt utterly exhilarated.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: Waiting Is Also a Surprise

At six in the morning on the sixth day, we arrived at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to wait for the sunrise to gild the peaks. As the sun climbed little by little, turning the snowy summit golden, all the waiting was worth it.

Blue Moon Valley: The Dream of a Mini Jiuzhaigou

The water in Blue Moon Valley is blue because the lakebed is white mud. When it rains, the water turns white, so it's also called White Water River. We arrived early, and since it had rained the day before, a layer of mist still hung over the water, dreamlike and surreal. The lake water contains high levels of copper ions and is undrinkable, but just looking at it is refreshing.

Reaching 4,506 Meters: The Truth About Altitude Sickness

As we took the cable car up, a few of my companions were so nervous they opened their oxygen tanks as soon as they got on. I told them that altitudes above 4,000 meters aren't really scary—just relax, don't catch a cold, and avoid strenuous exercise, and you'll be fine. Sure enough, at the summit, I was bouncing around, while those friends who usually exercise regularly were all wilted. Summary: Altitude sickness has no necessary connection to physical fitness; mindset is key.

Epilogue: No Matter How Many Times I Return, I Will Always Love You as Before

On the day we left Lijiang, my boyfriend said, "It's too commercialized here, a bit pretentious." But I feel that whether it's Lijiang's "petit bourgeois" vibe or Dali's "rustic charm," it's all part of this land. Ten years ago, I missed its allure; ten years later, I've finally prepared myself to truly meet it.

"An old city, a small town, a worn-out ancient book. The creases are years, the spots are memories, and when unfolded, they reveal countless stories." Coming to Yunnan again, picking up the scattered fragments of the past, I realize: No matter how many times I return, I will always love you as before.

Quick Tips at a Glance

• Jeep photo shoot: @Dali Journey Light, B package shared jeep 368 yuan/person, includes costumes and photographer
• Lugu Lake bonfire party: Free, and photos with Mosuo people are also free
• Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: Altitude 4,506 meters; bring sunglasses and sunscreen; don't overdress at noon
• Altitude sickness: Don't panic, avoid strenuous exercise, don't drink cold water, and use oxygen if tired
• Must-try foods: Lijiang flower cakes, Dali grilled milk fan, Lugu Lake grilled fish, old town skewers

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