A Ten-Day May Journey Through Yunnan: From Kunming to Lugu Lake, a Rendezvous with Sunshine, Wind, and Moonlit Snow

Some say Yunnan is a painting God left behind on Earth. In May, the wind blows across Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, brushes over the peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and finally settles quietly on the turquoise waves of Lugu Lake. On May 18, 2019, my boyfriend and I set off on this ten-day Yunnan adventure, carrying our hopes for wedding photos. From Kunming to Lugu Lake, we measured the warmth of this land with our footsteps and captured countless heart-stopping moments with our cameras. If you're planning a trip to Yunnan, this travelogue might just light the way for you.

Pre-Trip Preparations: Details Make All the Difference

A month before departure, we booked round-trip flights from Shenzhen to Kunming. Keeping an eye on airfare early on really does save you a pretty penny. A special heads-up: Avoid Lucky Air unless you've purchased travel delay insurance—our flight was pushed from 7:55 PM to 1:30 AM the next morning, leaving us waiting at the airport for what felt like an eternity.

For luggage, we packed two large suitcases and two backpacks. Yunnan's UV rays are notoriously brutal—sunscreen is an absolute must. I went through two and a half bottles of Anessa, reapplying every 30 minutes to an hour. After several days, I barely got a tan anywhere except my toes. My boyfriend, on the other hand, forgot to apply sunscreen while cycling around Erhai Lake. His legs, exposed in shorts, turned bright red and peeled for days afterward—even aloe vera gel couldn't save him. So remember: a wide-brimmed hat, UV-protective arm sleeves, and sunglasses are non-negotiable.

For outerwear, one light layer and one heavy layer are enough. I ended up wearing my boyfriend's shirt most of the time—it was just the right thickness for the morning and evening chill. That red scarf I brought? I only used it at the airport and on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; everywhere else it was just too hot. Flip-flops, a portable bedsheet, travel-size bags, and a backpack—these seemingly trivial items turned out to be lifesavers. The backpack in particular held my sunglasses, umbrella, power bank, jacket, and thermos—my boyfriend carried one, and I had my hands free for photos.

Day 1: Shenzhen → Kunming, the Chaos and Anticipation of a Late-Night Arrival

On the afternoon of May 18, we packed up slowly, dropped our dog off at my parents' house, and headed to the airport. The news of the delay hit us like a bucket of cold water, but we took it in stride—we grabbed some braised duck feet and char siu (barbecue pork) at the airport, snapped a few silly selfies to kill time, and finally boarded at 1:30 AM. After a little over an hour in the air, we landed in Kunming. The hotel near the airport we'd booked in advance wasn't great (no hot water, basic amenities), but it offered a free shuttle. We boiled water to wash our faces and hair, and didn't crash until 4 AM. Good thing we brought the portable bedsheet—at least we slept soundly. After getting bitten by fleas on a trip to Yading Nature Reserve in Sichuan a few years back (my legs were covered in red bumps), I learned my lesson.

Day 2: Kunming's Dounan Flower Market, Happiness for Ten Yuan

After just two hours of sleep, we were up at 7 AM. The hotel sent us back to the airport, where we met a girl traveling with her mom. The four of us shared a cab to Kunming's train station. After storing our luggage, we headed straight for Dounan Flower Market.

Kunming's train station was maddeningly confusing—the main entrance was completely closed off, with only one gate for entry and exit. No subway or bus dropped you off directly at the door, so we had to walk a huge loop in the blazing sun, nearly in tears from the heat. But Dounan Flower Market was totally worth it! You can get a huge bouquet for just ten yuan—it's absurdly cheap. I bought one for myself and sent some to my mom. Carrying those flowers, I boarded the 1:55 PM bullet train to Dali, my mood soaring.

We arrived in Dali around 4 PM. After exiting the station, we took Bus No. 8 straight to the old town gate. The final stop was our guesthouse, Mufu Inn. The sun was shining all the way—I was holding my flowers, wearing headphones, with my boyfriend beside me. That feeling of excitement and anticipation at the start of a trip is unforgettable. Dali's sky was a pure, deep blue. The young rice seedlings by the roadside had just sprouted, a lush green. I imagined how beautiful they'd look in autumn, golden and swaying.

After dropping off our bags, we went to pick out wedding dresses for the next day's photo shoot. That night, we ate guoqiao mixian (crossing-the-bridge rice noodles) at Qiaoxiangyuan. Honestly, it was a bit disappointing—the flavor was average—but we were hungry enough to eat plenty. We wandered through the old town, bought some fruit and yogurt, and headed back to the guesthouse early. The old town's cobblestone streets are tricky to walk on, so wear flat shoes or flip-flops.

Day 3: Wedding Photos in Dali, Sunlight Is the Best Filter

May 20—wedding photo day. The weather was ridiculously perfect—huge sun, blazing light. I went through a whole bottle of Anessa, and even my scalp got sunburned (the curse of thinning hair). But the photos turned out amazing. Sunlight really is the best filter. That evening, we had shibanshao (stone-plate barbecue). It was pretty similar to regular BBQ, with a salty dipping sauce, but the place was packed and lively.

Day 4: Cycling Around Erhai Lake, Freedom on an E-Scooter

On the 21st, we rented an electric scooter and set off to circle Erhai Lake. The sun was still merciless, the wind strong and dry—we didn't sweat at all. I wore a long UV-protective dress, a hat, and carried a full bottle of sunscreen, reapplying constantly.

The beauty of an e-scooter is that you can duck into all sorts of small paths. We zigzagged down an alley where some people were fishing, with no tourists in sight. The scenery was so stunning I thought, "I could stay here all day." Some parts of the lakeshore were under construction, with lots of dust, but if you avoided those areas, every quiet corner felt like a painting. We visited Xizhou Ancient Town and Haishui Park, then headed to Tianlongbabu City (The Heavenly Dragon Eight Tribes City)—but we arrived too late; tickets were already sold out. We just snapped a photo from the hillside and called it a day.

Back in the old town, we were starving. We ate at Granny's Preserved Pork Ribs (Apo La Paigu), which was full of flavor. That night, we explored the bar street, beautifully lit up. We stumbled upon Dabin's Little House (Da Bing De Xiao Wu)—it was smaller than I'd imagined, already packed to the brim. Dogs were everywhere in the old town. Since we have one ourselves, we couldn't resist stopping every time we saw one. A street performer noticed me taking his photo and shyly said, "Let me sing the whole song from the beginning for you." It was adorable.

Day 5: Dali → Lijiang, Romance on the Train

On the 22nd, we moved to a guesthouse just outside the old town. The owner, a 97-born girl, chatted with us like old friends until the early hours. That night, we sat on the terrace gazing at the stars—no mosquitoes, just a gentle breeze. This is life.

At noon, we took the train to Lijiang. The bullet train from Dali to Lijiang was unique—it was double-decker, and the "hard seats" were actually just everyone sitting together on sleeper berths. Strange but novel. Arriving in Lijiang, the weather turned overcast, the air cool. After dropping off our bags, we ate at Brother Er's Chicken Rice Noodles (Er Ge Tu Ji Mi Xian)—the best meal we'd had in Yunnan so far! In the evening, we strolled through the old town. The uneven streets are tough on your feet—wear proper shoes. The bar street was lively but also a bit sketchy; we saw an argument that even drew the police.

Day 6: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Shared Emotions with Strangers

On the 23rd, we joined a small group tour—eight people total, including the big cable car, transportation, lunch, oxygen canisters, and a down jacket. The guide, who also drove, was incredibly responsible—never rushed us, always warm and attentive.

We woke up before 5 AM and waited for the pickup at 6. While queuing for the cable car, the guide gave us detailed instructions and made us save his phone number. As the cable car ascended, the view of the snowy peaks was breathtaking. Because the sun was strong, it wasn't cold while hiking—many people shed their down jackets later. As someone who doesn't exercise much, the steep steps left me breathless. But reaching the summit, seeing the snow against the blue sky, made it all worthwhile.

In the afternoon, we visited Blue Moon Valley (Lan Yue Gu). The sun was brilliant, the water a vivid turquoise—reminiscent of Jiuzhaigou. Our group members helped each other take photos, so we ended up with lots of couple shots. One pair kept snapping pictures with us the whole way, while the four guys in our group waited impatiently at the finish line. At the end, a senior-year student in our group said, "Wishing you a happy marriage!" Carrying that blessing, we moved on.

Days 7–9: Self-Driving to Lugu Lake, the Best Scenery Is on the Road

On the 24th, we rented a car and drove to Lugu Lake. The rental plus gas cost less than 600 yuan, with the air conditioning running the whole way—far more comfortable than a bus. The mountain roads weren't too challenging; my boyfriend drove the entire distance without issue. The scenery along the way was breathtaking. We stopped for a long time at the Jinsha River and spent ages hunting for fruit in a small town. We arrived at the scenic area around 4:30 PM. The area is huge, with long distances between attractions—having a car made everything so convenient.

We stayed two nights at Lugu Lake. The weather remained impossibly good. Mornings were a bit cool, but as soon as the sun came out, it warmed up. We circled the lake, visited several viewpoints, and took a ride on a pig-trough boat (zhucao chuan). The water was so clear you could see the bottom. Water lilies (shuixing yanghua) floated on the surface, looking unreal in their beauty.

Day 10: Lugu Lake → Lijiang → Kunming, Goodbye on the Train

On the 26th, we drove back to Lijiang, then caught the night train to Kunming. The train departed at 7:35 PM and arrived at 4:45 AM—a sleeper berth cost 89 yuan per person, perfect for catching some sleep and saving on a hotel. Upon arrival, we took the subway directly to Changshui Airport and flew back to Shenzhen in the morning.

Final Thoughts: What I Want to Say About Yunnan

Over these ten days, we dealt with delayed flights, confusing train stations, sunburned legs, and underwhelming rice noodles. But more than that, we experienced the freedom under blue skies and white clouds, the breeze by Erhai Lake, the snow on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the turquoise waters of Lugu Lake, and the warm-hearted people we met along the way.

A few practical tips: - Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen—I can't say it enough. Anessa works well, but remember to reapply frequently. - Self-drive to Lugu Lake—there's a small risk of being stopped, but the freedom is unmatched. Highly recommended. - Spend more days in Dali—take your time exploring Xizhou, Shuanglang, and Shaxi. Riding an e-scooter around Erhai Lake is far more relaxing than rushing from spot to spot. - Bring your driver's license—otherwise, you'll have to mail it like we did. My boyfriend nearly got killed by me for that one.

Finally, thank you to everyone we met and every landscape we saw on this trip. Yunnan, we'll be back—next time, with our dog.