An Ancient City, a Serendipitous Encounter: My Journey Through Colorful Yunnan

"Only after getting drunk do you know the strength of wine; only after loving do you know the depth of feeling." This old saying suddenly carried real weight the moment I set foot in Yunnan.

On January 1, 2015, I set out from Guangzhou with nothing but a backpack and a Canon 600D camera. Six days, a budget of 3,500 yuan, wandering alone — I had simply wanted to see the scenery, never imagining that beyond the landscapes, I would find something far more precious.

The Departure: Ringing in the New Year Alone

I booked my flights and train tickets a month in advance. Round-trip airfare: 934 yuan. Train tickets from Kunming to Lijiang and Dali back to Kunming: 258 yuan. Airport shuttle: 50 yuan. Lijiang to Shuanglang: 80 yuan. I remember every single figure clearly because every cent was money well spent.

I spent the last day of 2014 on the subway. I welcomed the dawn of 2015 in a McDonald's. Every hotel was fully booked that night — I could only smile wryly: this was the price of a spontaneous adventure.

But sometimes, fate hides in those very "accidents."

The Connection: What If I Hadn't Sat in the Wrong Seat

Do you believe in fate?

If I hadn't caught that flight that day, if I hadn't sat in the wrong seat, if I hadn't opened my mouth to speak — then I would never have met Liu Ling.

At Kunming Changshui Airport, we went our separate ways. Her route was Dali; I was heading to Lijiang first. As I wandered Kunming alone, flocks of seagulls gathered at Green Lake Park. They weren't afraid of people, foraging and playing along the shore. I visited Yunnan University, a campus over a century old, where I unexpectedly encountered a few squirrels — they jumped down from the trees and stared at me with curiosity.

But in my heart, I kept thinking about that girl I'd chatted with on the plane.

Lijiang: The Warmth of an Ancient City

Lijiang at Dawn

My train arrived in Lijiang just after six in the morning, the sky still dark. From the train station to the old town, it was a flat 10 yuan — no haggling needed.

Lijiang's iconic landmark — the Great Waterwheel — is said to have been invented by Zhuge Liang for irrigation in ancient times. Seeing such a vast ancient city for the first time, I felt a thrill of excitement. Along the streets, Dongba wind chimes swayed gently in the breeze, originally used by horse caravans to pray for safe passage. On one chime, I wrote: "An ancient city, a serendipitous encounter, Ling."

January 4, 2015 — I remember that date.

The Quiet of Shuhe Old Town

Compared to the lively bustle of Lijiang's old town, Shuhe Old Town was far more tranquil. If you prefer peace and quiet, this is the better place to stay. The local milk had a distinctive flavor; I tried a glass, and it was wonderfully rich.

Lijiang's nightlife was also quite entertaining. At 11:30 PM, all music systems had to be turned off, but you could keep drinking until dawn — the bar owners would stay with you. We found a quiet spot, ordered a case of beer, and played games with a few others. We didn't even finish the case before heading back to sleep. Oh, and one piece of advice: never volunteer to sing on stage — I got scammed out of 50 yuan.

The Hundred-Year-Old Doors at the Inn

Staying at a guesthouse in Lijiang, the owner told us the six doors had been around for over a century, and he couldn't bear to replace them. In the morning, I wandered through the local market, where the people were so simple and genuine it was deeply moving.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: Seeing Snow for the First Time

The scenery on the way to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was like a painting.

Four of us went up the mountain. None of us brought oxygen canisters; none of us rented winter coats. In the end, only Liu Ling and I made it to the very top. She didn't suffer from altitude sickness — for a girl, that was no small feat.

Seeing snow for the first time, this southern kid was beside himself with excitement. The snow felt soft to the touch, melting quickly in my hands, leaving my fingers numb with cold. The water at Blue Moon Valley was a green so vivid it looked like something out of a fairy tale — I couldn't bring myself to leave.

Our driver, Brother Fei, had the nickname "Unreliable" — you know the type. But he drove steadily and was a genuinely good guy, taking us around and showing us a great time.

Shuanglang: Slow Days by Erhai Lake

The Old Wooden Boat Inn

We didn't arrive in Shuanglang until after six in the evening, too late to catch the sunset. We stayed at the Old Wooden Boat Inn, which had a beautiful garden where you could sit, drink tea, and chat — it felt like another world entirely.

I wanted to watch the sunrise, but the mountains blocked the view. Local fishermen were heading out to sea even in this cold weather — that's just how they live.

Cycling Around Erhai Lake

Erhai Lake was breathtakingly beautiful — I was completely enchanted.

I rented an electric scooter to ride around the lake. If you want to go the distance, I'd recommend a bicycle; if comfort is your priority, go electric. Bikes cost 20 yuan a day, electric scooters 40 yuan, and rental shops are everywhere in Shuanglang.

By the lakeside, I met a young couple from Beijing, Shaopeng and Jingjing, newlyweds on their honeymoon. Jingjing said she liked the way I spoke Mandarin with a Cantonese accent — I was over the moon, even though I personally didn't think it sounded that great. Shaopeng got caught sneaking a smoke one morning, and the way he apologized is still fresh in my memory. If I ever go to Beijing, I'm definitely looking them up — they'll have to put me up and feed me.

A Morning of Doing Nothing

People say Shuanglang is the perfect place for "zoning out," and I spent an entire morning doing exactly that. Sitting alone in the sun, soaking in the quiet of Erhai Lake, letting my restless mind settle. No work, no rush — just pure leisure.

The local rice noodles, recommended by a girl named Xixi, were pretty good.

Some say seeing a rainbow brings good luck. I think so too. My luck was meeting Liu Ling. She stayed by my side the whole way, showing me a kind of love I'd never felt before. She gave up her original itinerary to be with me — she never said it, but I knew.

Facing the sea, with spring flowers blooming. Erhai Lake, I love you. Liu Ling, I love you.

Dali: Local Flavors and Customs

Bai Ethnic Traditions

Among the local Bai people, women are called "Jinhua" (Golden Flower) and men are called "Apeng" — though I'm not sure if that's the right character. I attended one of their wedding ceremonies — it was joyous and lively.

I tried rushan, a local specialty cheese, and even saw what it looked like before being fried. The entrance fee for the Three Pagodas was reportedly over 200 yuan — I didn't go in. For places that are too overpriced, I usually just take a glance from a distance and call it good.

The Sneaky Photo of "Big Brother"

In the old town, I also snapped a candid shot of "Big Brother" — someone was actually walking around dressed as the Monkey King. Master, your disciple is calling you back.

The Meaning of Travel: From Tourism to Journeying

This trip to Yunnan made me redefine the difference between "tourism" and "journeying."

Tourism is a process of recreation and consumption — spending money to enjoy the sights, culture, food, and service of a foreign place. Some say tourism is just going from a place you're tired of to a place other people are tired of. When flights are delayed, hotels are dirty, attractions are crowded, or you get ripped off shopping, you get angry and feel cheated.

Journeying, on the other hand, is a process of experience and reflection. You experience nature, you reflect on life, and you don't fear encountering rain, snow, wind, or hardship. You treat everything as part of life's journey. You go with the flow, keep a calm mind, and face things with composure.

Tourism is like fast food — you want to skip all the process and get to the destination as quickly as possible. Journeying is like savoring fine wine — you adjust your mindset, slow down, and carefully taste and observe.

A backpack, a heart yearning for freedom — and that's where a true journey begins.

In the End: Everyone's Yunnan Tells a Different Story

Six days. 3,500 yuan. One ancient city. One person. I thought I was just going to see the scenery, never imagining that beyond the landscapes, I would find something far more precious.

If you're thinking of going to Yunnan, my advice is this: book your flights and accommodation well in advance — especially if you want a room at Haidi Life, which might not be available even a month out. Bring your camera, bring a good mood, and leave the rest to fate.

Because you never know — in the next ancient city, who you might meet.

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