[Featured & Treasure Memory] The Quirky Couple's Travel Tales · Lugu Lake丨Building Dreams in Lugu, May You Remain as Clear as Ever

📕 Xiaohongshu: Wenge is Tumeijiang | Beauty｜Skincare｜Travel｜Lifestyle 🎓 Medical Science 🧳 36 Countries | No DMs, No Replies, Your Understanding is Appreciated

Destination Ninglang Yi Autonomous County

Travel Date & Duration 2016.04.29 · 4 Days

Per Person Cost (RMB) [Amount not specified in original]

Travel Companions Friends

That day / at dusk / snow began to fall Sorrow / blooms on the hillsides / waiting for youth to fade Midnight movies / tell tales of ancient love In the darkness / singing for the young Go now / girl / go see the crimson sunrise Take / my love songs / as you sing into the wind Dewdrops hang in your hair / crystal clear melancholy The first confusion of my life When time / and beauty / become sighs in the dust In your sorrowful eyes / there are tears of old days In the age of believing in love / the songs I never sang for you Will haunt my memories forever —— Old Wolf, "Romance in the Wind and Dust"

About Us

❤️ Me, known as Big Sister Wenge (or Tumeijiang), a tough and determined woman. In all our travels, I'm responsible for writing and photography, handling both shooting and editing. Though technically a novice, I'm a passionate female photographer who strives to improve every day.

❤️ Him, known as Brother Feng (or Feifei), has a little girl living inside his heart. During our trips, he serves as a human tripod, a human shutter remote, and a highly unprofessional lighting technician. As a team member who writes poorly and photographs even worse than I do, his sole job is to be the class clown.

About Our New Travel Squad Members

❤️ Xiao Di: Our number one handsome photographer for this trip. Half the photos in this travelogue are his work. As a veteran road-tripper who has driven through most of Southwest China's stunning landscapes, he also served as our navigator. P.S. All photos belonging to Xiao Di in this travelogue have been watermarked with his name and published with his full permission and authorization.

❤️ Ran Ran Ran: Big Sister Wenge's best friend of thirteen years. She was the life of our car, keeping the driver awake and serving as the president of our starry-night car karaoke club.

❤️ Ke Ke: Big Brother Feng's good buddy, a fitness-loving, life-enjoying modern youth, and a karaoke god with an incredibly beautiful Cantonese singing voice. Though still a road-trip novice compared to veteran Xiao Di, riding in his car meant you could sleep soundly the whole way. P.S. Both Ke Ke and Xiao Di are single, healthy, handsome, with wedding-ready homes and a host of excellent qualities. You know what we mean, folks!

❤️ Big Sister Xia: Big Sister Wenge's good friend, mentioned before in my Vietnam travelogue. Sixteen words to describe her: Can eat, can drink, sings anytime; loves to play, loves to sleep, flirts with many.

❤️ Lulu: A girl born in '96, the epitome of a literary youth. She's a bit shy and doesn't talk much, but that doesn't stop her from pursuing poetry and distant lands.

As usual, here's a preview of our trip. Dear readers, take your time, and I hope you can read through to the very end.

Why Lugu Lake?

Whenever a short holiday approaches, we always wear a look of utter despair and say, "Can we just drop the word 'short'?"

A three-day holiday makes international travel unrealistic. We didn't want to dip further into our already dwindling annual leave, which had been drained by our trips to Vietnam, Japan, and Singapore. So, domestic travel it was.

Over the years, since our university days, I've slowly traveled through several Chinese provinces. But Yunnan, the "Land of Eternal Spring" south of the clouds, was a place I had never set foot in.

After much discussion among our group of friends, we decided on Lugu Lake, straddling the border of Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. We'd take a couple of cars, load up our friends, and hit the road, being silly and singing all the way.

And so, this trip was born.

A Few Things About Lugu Lake

Basic Information: Lugu Lake is located on the border between Yanyuan County in Sichuan Province and Ninglang County in Yunnan Province, so it's jointly administered by both provinces. The lake sits at an altitude of about 2,600 meters (8,530 feet). According to the all-knowing Baidu Baike, it's China's third deepest freshwater lake, with a maximum depth of 70 meters (230 feet). The entire Lugu Lake scenic area consists of 1 lake, 17 beaches, 14 bays, 5 full islands, 4 peninsulas, and 1 long island. If you want to thoroughly explore the scenery around the lake, I recommend staying for at least 3 nights.

Local Culture and Customs: Many people's understanding of Lugu Lake comes from Yang Erche Namu, a fascinating Mosuo woman who introduced her people and homeland to the world in her own way. The Mosuo are China's only remaining matriarchal society, still maintaining their "walking marriage" tradition to this day. The male partner in a walking marriage is called "Azhu," and the female is called "Axia." When visiting Lugu Lake today, you can still see the ancient Walking Marriage Bridge. Walking across this historic bridge, you can experience the natural beauty and cultural charm of the "Kingdom of Women."

Climate: Lugu Lake is located in a plateau monsoon climate zone, with abundant sunshine during the day and large temperature differences between day and night. The rainy season runs from June to October, while the dry season is from November to May of the following year. The rainy season, especially July to September, is not the best time to visit due to frequent landslides. May, when spring flowers cover the mountains, and October, when the leaves turn golden, are the best times to visit Lugu Lake.

Local Cuisine Overview: - Pipa Meat (Pipa Rou) : A food made by the Mosuo people by air-drying pork belly in a special way. When guests arrive, locals always offer their homemade pipa meat to express their welcome. - Grilled Fish Jerky (Kao Yu Gan) : Locals living by the lake catch small fish, dry them, and then grill them. The aroma of grilled fish is mouthwatering. - Steamed Egg with Silverfish (Yin Yu Zheng Dan) : The lake is full of silverfish. Steamed eggs made with silverfish are simply heavenly. The egg flavor, combined with the fresh, non-fishy taste of silverfish, is truly unforgettable. - Buckwheat Pancake (Qiao Mai Bing) : The entire Lugu Lake area and its surroundings are rich in bitter buckwheat. Pancakes made from buckwheat are sweet and delicious, perfect for breakfast with congee. - Tuo Tuo Meat (Tuo Tuo Rou) : The entire Liangshan region embraces the philosophy of eating big chunks of meat and drinking from big bowls. Pork is cut into large pieces, marinated with spices, and served with local sour vegetable soup. Eating meat and drinking soup together is pure joy. - Blood Sausage with Rice (Zhu Xue Chang) : The only Mosuo dish we didn't get to try on this trip. Semi-cooked rice is mixed with pig's blood, chives, dried tangerine peel, and various spices, then stuffed into pig intestines. Locals prefer to fry it before eating.

Things to Do at Lugu Lake:

⭐ Goddess Gemu Mountain (Gemu Nüshen Shan) : The highest mountain around Lugu Lake, reaching over 3,700 meters (12,140 feet). It features the famous Goddess Temple and Goddess Cave (a place Ke Ke really wanted to visit but never made it to). Locals say that during the Mountain-Turning Festival, they all go to Goddess Gemu Mountain to pray.

⭐ Houlong Mountain (Houlong Shan) : Though called a mountain, it's actually a long island jutting into the center of Lugu Lake. Hiking the trail on Houlong Mountain offers views of both the "Grass Sea" and the "Bright Sea."

⭐ Penglai Three Islands (Penglai San Dao) : Comprised of Lige Island, Livubi Island, and Heiwawu Island. The most famous is Lige Peninsula, which I personally believe offers the best scenery at Lugu Lake. Whether you're standing on the hilltop viewing platform overlooking the beauty of Lige Peninsula or taking a boat around it, you'll have a different experience.

⭐ Grass Sea (Cao Hai) : Taking a boat through the Grass Sea in spring, summer, or autumn is a fantastic experience. In the center of the Grass Sea is a millennium-old grass mat, where water plants have grown for a thousand years. It floats on the water and can support the weight of many people. Interested folks can take off their shoes and walk on it. But a word of warning: if you're on the heavier side, you might want to skip it. Brother Feng is a perfect example. He hadn't been playing on the grass mat for long before he stepped right through it, sinking into the muddy water below. When he climbed out, he smelled terrible...

⭐ Goddess Bay (Nüshen Wan) & Lover's Beach (Qingren Tan) : Both places have their own charm. I personally prefer Lover's Beach, which has better scenery than Goddess Bay. Sitting there at sunset, watching the clouds roll by, is incredibly relaxing.

⭐ Walking Marriage Bridge (Zouhun Qiao) : At some point, the Walking Marriage Bridge became a must-visit spot at Lugu Lake. The bridge is very long, but it's always crowded. If you want to visit, go in the morning. When we drove past on our departure day, we found it completely empty early in the morning, with the morning sunlight casting a beautiful glow on the bridge. It was breathtaking!

Here's a map of Lugu Lake's attractions, clearly showing the distribution of each site. The image is from Mafengwo's travel guide. [Image credit to original source]

About the Itinerary

Due to time constraints, we had to pack our schedule tightly.

With a total of 4 days including the departure day, and not wanting both drivers to drive through the night, we arranged an overnight stay in Xichang.

Day 1: Both cars meet after work at 5 PM — Depart Chengdu via the Chengya-Yaxi Expressway to Xichang (Chengya section: 140 km / 87 miles; Yaxi section: 240 km / 149 miles) — Check into Xichang hotel.

Day 2: Wake up at 6 AM, have breakfast, check out — Drive to Yanyuan (137 km / 85 miles total; Xichang-Ximu section is expressway, rest is mountain roads) — Yanyuan to Lugu Lake (117 km / 73 miles total, all mountain roads) — Check into hotel & have lunch — Visit Daluoshui Village, Lover's Beach, Lige Peninsula & Lige Pier — Dinner at Cier BBQ — Return to hotel for stargazing.

Day 3: Wake up at 7 AM, have breakfast — Drive to visit Grass Sea, Luowa Pier, Goddess Bay, Walking Marriage Bridge, Xiaoluoshui — Dinner at Haoren Xiaochi — Return to hotel for stargazing.

Day 4: Wake up at 6 AM, have breakfast & check out — Drive all the way to Xichang for lunch — Take Yaxi-Chengya Expressway back to Chengdu for hotpot — Trip ends successfully.

About the Road Trip

In terms of distance, Chengdu to Lugu Lake isn't far compared to many road trip routes. But since a third of the journey is on mountain roads, avoid driving while fatigued. I don't recommend driving straight from Chengdu to Lugu Lake. If time allows, definitely stop overnight in Xichang. It gives the drivers a rest and a chance to try Xichang's local cuisine.

The entire Yaxi Expressway has speed cameras. Speed demons, please slow down! Stick to the speed limits for everyone's safety — yours and others'.

Fill up your tank before leaving. That way, even a massive traffic jam won't leave you stranded. You can drive the entire Chengya Expressway without stopping. On the Yaxi Expressway section, I suggest taking a break at the Yingjing or Pusagang rest stops to grab some snacks and use the restroom.

From Xichang to Lugu Lake, only a short section is expressway; the rest is mountain roads. In the past, before the mountain roads were improved, low-clearance cars often scraped their undercarriages. Now, the roads are mostly paved, but they're still very narrow. When driving on mountain roads, be careful when passing other cars, watch for falling rocks, and don't speed or overtake illegally.

About the Hotels

⭐ Xichang Hotel: Xichang Meili Shan Shui Da Hotel (Address: No. 202, Section 1, Hangtian Avenue, Xichang, near the Tourist Distribution Center)

Since it was just a transit stop, we chose a hotel near the expressway. The hotel was average, with no breakfast included. We arrived in Xichang late at night, and for a hotel where we'd only sleep 5-6 hours, it was acceptable.

[Image of hotel room interior, from various travel websites. Credit to original source.]

⭐ Lugu Lake Hotel: Lugu Lake Mengtian Boutique Chain Inn (Address: Langfang Village, Lugu Lake, Ninglang County, near Daluoshui)

This inn is near the pier, with lake-view and mountain-view rooms. If it were just Brother Feng and me, we would have chosen a hotel on Lige Island. But with seven people having different accommodation preferences, and it being hard to please everyone, we settled on this affordable, lakeside little inn.

Breakfast was included, but honestly, it was pretty mediocre — probably due to limited supplies around Lugu Lake. On the first night, we had a pipe burst. Bad luck! The pipe was fixed the next morning, and we quickly took hot showers. The inn is small, but each room is spacious, with large floor-to-ceiling windows. Opening the curtains on a sunny day was lovely. But I have to say, dear innkeeper, your toilets really aren't very user-friendly!

[Two images: one of the inn's exterior, one of a room interior. From various travel websites. Credit to original source.]

Since it was a road trip, we packed whatever we wanted. Each car carried 3-4 people, plus their luggage. The trunks were stuffed full.

But it turned out bringing extra warm clothes was a good idea. The temperature difference between day and night at Lugu Lake is huge. Xia Ge and Lulu didn't bring enough clothes and had to borrow from Xiao Di the whole trip. Kids who don't listen to their elders...

I was put in charge of the finances for this road trip. I can never keep track of my own spending, so I'm grateful to everyone for trusting me to handle the money and accounts.

But surprisingly, I didn't make any mistakes in the accounts or calculations. Big Sister Wenge's financial management skills received unanimous approval. That's still a little thrilling.

So who was the best money manager on this trip? Me, of course!

Tips & Reminders

① Lugu Lake's weather is changeable. Many lakeside spots are extremely windy. If you're worried about catching a chill, bring a large ethnic-style shawl — it looks great in photos and blocks the wind. The huge temperature difference between day and night is a key feature. You might be hot enough at noon to wear short sleeves like me, but by afternoon or evening, you'll need a light down jacket like Brother Feng. The night we went stargazing, we were freezing. I was shivering in my ripped jeans, but at least my thick jacket kept me somewhat warm.

② Lugu Lake is on a plateau, so UV radiation is very strong. Always wear sunscreen to protect yourself. Ke Ke, the palest in our group, found his arms and neck sunburned on the drive back. That's what happens when you skip the sunscreen.

③ The air at Lugu Lake is quite dry, also due to the wind. Every morning when I brushed my hair, it crackled with static. Brother Feng even had several nosebleeds from dry, fragile nasal mucous membranes. I suggest bringing extra wet wipes and drinking plenty of water.

④ Many friends warned me that the Sichuan side of Lugu Lake has simpler hotel facilities, more prone to water and power outages. We chose a hotel on the Yunnan side, but still experienced a water outage. Luckily, it only lasted one night. If you're particular about washing your hair (like me), bring dry shampoo.

⑤ Overall, prices around Lugu Lake aren't high. We bought several servings of fried potatoes for just 10 RMB. Dinner for seven people at a local restaurant was only 200-300 RMB, about 30-40 RMB per person. The main entrance ticket to Lugu Lake is 100 RMB, covering all minor attractions. Student IDs get you a discount.

⑥ My advice for visiting Lugu Lake is to focus on pure enjoyment. Don't stress about buying souvenirs. If you really want to, local liquor, dried fish, and wild mushrooms are good choices. But be careful with wild mushrooms — I don't recognize many types, so I can't guarantee you won't buy something inedible.

After all this rambling, there's one very important thing I want to say: Lugu Lake is beautiful, and its water is crystal clear. I hope all travel lovers will take care of every plant and tree here.

During our trip, I saw parents with children. The kids casually threw drink bottles into the lake, and the parents didn't stop them. I was a bit disappointed by that behavior.

Have fun, but do it with class. We're all sophisticated travelers with style!

Day 1: Eating, Drinking, Singing, and Lots of Chatting on the Road

On the day of departure, I was itching to leave even while at work. Just thinking about how this was our first road trip together as a group of friends got me a little excited!

As soon as work ended, the squad quickly assembled and headed for our destination for the night — Xichang.

The expressway distance from Chengdu to Xichang is about 380 km (236 miles). You can take the Chengya or Chengwenqiong Expressway to Ya'an, then transfer to the Yaxi Expressway to reach Xichang directly. A year ago, Brother Feng and I drove to Xichang for my college roommate's wedding. The memory of eating and drinking our way along the road was still pleasant. On this road trip, Xichang was just a transit stop, so we didn't have time for authentic fire-pit barbecue again. That was a small regret.

Our two cars drove along at a relaxed pace, and we were lucky not to hit any major traffic jams. I was surprised the first time I went to Xichang to see the city full of cars with "Chuan A" license plates (from Chengdu). People from Chengdu really know how to have fun — they rush out of the city at every opportunity.

Our car had two karaoke gods — Ke Ke and Ran Ran. Both were Cantonese song masters, which gave birth to our "Starry Night Car Karaoke Club" for this trip. Singing along the way, joking about life — time passed quickly.

We arrived at the Xichang hotel close to midnight. We'd originally planned to have fire-pit barbecue, but knowing we had to wake up at 6 AM the next day, we all decided to just go to our rooms, wash up, and sleep.

As always, I prayed for good weather at Lugu Lake. Little Rain God Big Sister Wenge absolutely couldn't ruin everyone's fun this time.

Day 2: Gemu is a Mountain, Lover is a Bay, and the Friendship Boat at Lige Island Never Sinks

Xichang dawns early. After getting up, washing up, and having breakfast, we continued our journey to Lugu Lake.

The weather was great today. Earlier, the forecast had predicted continuous rain in the Liangshan area. As a "rain doll," having sunny days during my trip felt like a special blessing from the Goddess of Luck.

The section from Xichang to Ximu is expressway. After speeding through that short stretch, we got off the expressway and started the dreaded mountain roads. A colleague told me that last year, these mountain roads were still rough and hard on cars. But after being fully paved earlier this year, they're much easier to drive on.

We munched on duck feet and sang songs, occasionally spotting small flowers blooming on the cliffsides. It was incredibly pleasant.

Just before reaching Yanyuan County, we came across a traffic accident ahead. The police had temporarily restricted the already narrow mountain road to one-way traffic, and we got stuck in the queue.

Parked behind us was an RV. I've always dreamed of owning an RV. When I'm 60, Brother Feng and I will drive our little RV around China.

After about four hours, we finally arrived at the Lugu Lake scenic area from Xichang.

The entrance ticket was 100 RMB each, with discounted tickets available for student ID holders. So, to all you students out there, cherish your discount privileges!

After buying tickets, we headed straight to the hotel to drop off our luggage. After the bumpy ride, I was starving and could only think about eating.

Our inn wasn't far from Daluoshui Village and the Grass Sea. It took only 15-20 minutes to drive from the Lugu Lake scenic area entrance to the hotel.

The inn's exterior was very appealing — a row of colorful houses with transparent floor-to-ceiling windows facing the lake. Guests on the second floor could enjoy a beautiful lake view.

After dropping off our bags, we decided to have lunch at the inn's own restaurant. You can't have fun on an empty stomach!

The guys played mobile games and watched videos. The girls, besides taking selfies, did nothing else.

You might be wondering why the three goofy guys were wearing completely different outfits, making it impossible to tell the season. Actually, the temperature was around 18°C (64°F), and it was very windy. Brother Feng, who gets cold easily, naturally wore a light down jacket. Xiao Di couldn't withstand the strong wind either. Only Ke Ke, the fitness enthusiast, was in short sleeves the whole time.

The inn's restaurant served a decent lunch. Nothing spectacular, but it filled our stomachs just fine.

Lugu Lake has all kinds of fish. The owner proudly told us that the fish they served were all wild-caught from the lake.

After eating our fill, our first stop was Daluoshui Pier, not far from the inn.

Luoshui Pier is at the entrance of Daluoshui Village, just a 10-minute drive from our hotel in Langfang. As soon as we arrived at Luoshui Pier, we were captivated by the crystal-clear lake water. Dozens of small wooden boats were tied up at the pier, offering boat rides to explore Lugu Lake's beautiful scenery.

Ke Ke and Xiao Di shared a room, but they always seemed to be in a state of "together but apart." Whenever Xiao Di looked at me, Ke Ke would shyly avoid the camera. I really don't understand the world of these "best buds."

On this trip, Ran Ran gave me a very pretentious nickname: "Folk Song Wang."

It's because I always make a "I don't want anything, I only want poetry and distant lands" expression whenever I face the camera.

Brother Feng chose the right moment to show off our love. One second we were in a romantic pose, the next he shattered my girlish heart with his goofy antics.

From Daluoshui Pier, you can see Livubi Island in the middle of the lake. Together with Xiewa'e Island and Lige Island, Livubi Island forms the "Penglai Three Islands" of Lugu Lake. There's a temple on the island called Livubi Temple.

Apparently, you can take a boat to visit the island. But we wanted to save the boat ride for Lige Peninsula, so we just stood on the shore, admiring the island's beauty from afar.

Since we didn't take a boat at Daluoshui Pier, we quickly moved on to our next destination.

Driving around the lake, the weather was clear, the air was fresh, and my mood was soaring.

Xiao Di has an eye for beauty. Compared to him as a photographer, my aesthetic sense is completely amateur. He suggested we stop to admire the lake view. Being the goofball I am, I couldn't pass up any chance to be silly, so I scrambled up onto the car.

Soon, we arrived from Daluoshui Village at our next destination — Lover's Beach. The water quality here was excellent. You could even clearly see the colorful pebbles at the bottom.

A gentle breeze blew. Many tourists took off their shoes and sat on the shore, dipping their feet into the cool lake water. I envied the people living here, able to face such a beautiful lake every day. Here, sunshine and blue skies are never in short supply, and the air is free from the exhaust fumes and smog of the city.

The island in the middle of the lake is Xiewa'e Island, one of the Penglai Three Islands. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the light and shadows on the lake surface interweaved, creating a scene as beautiful as a painting.

A few old trees stood sparsely on the shore. Judging by their diameter, they had been living by the lake for a very, very long time.

Spring came and went, and the old trees sprouted new leaves. A lush expanse of green made one marvel at the wonder and beauty of nature.

Here's a glimpse of the love-hate relationship between Ran Ran and me:

Ran: "Does my profile look like Da Mimi (a famous actress)?" Me: "Haha." Me: "Does my profile look like Fiona Xue (a singer)?" Ran: "Yes, yes, it really does!" So, can we still be friends?

Xiao Di and Ke Ke put their lives on the line to show us what "flying higher" really means. The one not showing their face must be a schemer. Ke Ke's front-facing jump is definitely not suitable for viewing in large format — laugh-out-loud funny.

The sky was so blue, the water so blue. I wished I could stay here with the blue sky, white clouds, and clear water until the end of time.

After soaking up the sun and taking enough photos at Lover's Beach, we headed straight for the place we most wanted to take a boat ride — Lige Pier.

If you ask 100 people who've visited Lugu Lake where the most beautiful spot is, at least 95 will answer: Lige Pier and Lige Peninsula.

Compared to boats at other piers, the wooden boats at Lige Pier are colorful — red, orange, yellow, green, blue — shining brilliantly in the sunlight.

To avoid fighting for space with others, we simply chartered a small boat. Seven of us plus a boatman, freely drifting on the lake.

Here are two snapshots of the female photographer's daily life. No matter how strong the wind or how messy my hair gets, I don't care. That's how confident I am.

Ran Ran's profile, in my opinion, is the most beautiful. Girl, you moved me to tears.

The water near Lige Peninsula is a pure, clean turquoise. Drifting quietly on the lake in the small boat, the sun warming our backs, reaching out to touch the cool water — could there be a more comfortable feeling?

It was the perfect season. Flowers bloomed across the mountains. Here, your ears are filled with birdsong, your nose with the scent of flowers. There's no need to actively seek out the breath of spring.

Xiao Di with the girls (well, they're girls, I'm a tomboy). Behind us is Goddess Gemu Mountain.

I'm a disciplined person. There are very few things in life I can't refuse — besides the endless sea and a vast blue sky.

Ran Ran perfectly paired this photo with a lyric from Chen Li's song: "If I stand in the morning sun, can I shed yesterday's melancholy?"

I know I'm going further and further down the path of being a "Folk Song Wang," and there's no turning back.

As the sun set, we were a bit tired from a full day of playing. We sat on the pier, chatting and watching the lake in the breeze.

Our relationships are already too complicated to explain. This photo shows us a harsh reality: everyone has secrets.

The one you're leaning on...