Yunnan's Colorful Clouds丨A Seven-Day, Six-Night Slow Journey Through Lijiang and Dali: A Gentle Encounter with Time

Prologue: If We Don't Go Now, We'll Be Too Old

Life changes quietly without us even noticing. Those seemingly peaceful days often hide undercurrents of restlessness. When busyness becomes the norm and faraway places turn into distant dreams, we all need a spontaneous trip to wake up our sleeping souls.

Our original plan for an island getaway fell through, so my best friend and I exchanged a knowing smile: why not head to Lijiang and Dali instead? These two names felt as familiar as old friends—the warmth flowing through the TV series A Ray of Sunshine, the sunset over Erhai Lake captured by travel photographers, and the lively image of actress Yuan Quan running in a white shirt by a seaside café in the film Heart Blossoms. But honestly, despite knowing them so well by reputation, we had never actually set foot on this land. So, with hearts full of anticipation, we embarked on this seven-day, six-night slow journey.

I. Pre-Trip Preparation: Setting the Perfect Stage

☀️ Weather and Wardrobe: Four Seasons on Repeat

Lijiang's weather is a textbook case of unpredictability. A week before departure, I refreshed the forecast multiple times daily, just to agonize over what to pack. The temperature difference between day and night is astonishing—under the sun it feels like midsummer, but step into the shade and it instantly turns to late autumn. My advice: a thick jacket or heavy shawl is a lifesaver, paired with a few flowy dresses, and you'll easily handle the "four seasons in one day" madness. Dali, by comparison, is much gentler, typically 2-3°C warmer and more comfortable.

✨ Skincare and Sun Protection: Don't Let the UV Rays "Blacken" You

Yunnan's UV rays are no joke. Sunglasses, sunscreen, and primer are absolute musts. On the day we circled Erhai Lake, I wore striped sandals and forgot to spray sunscreen on my feet, thinking "it'll be fine"—that night, I ended up with a stark "panda foot" tan line. I was devastated. One hydrating face mask every night was my secret weapon against getting sunburned.

💡 Practical Tips

• Respect local culture: When in Rome, do as the Romans do—honor the customs of ethnic minorities
• Shop smart: Bargain only if you genuinely like something, and compare prices before buying
• Itinerary advice: If you prefer quiet, spend an extra couple of days in Dali
• Avoid tour group traps: Choose reputable channels for day trips; don't fall for cheap deals
• Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: If you don't bring a down jacket, opt for a tour that includes cold-weather gear and oxygen tanks for peace of mind

II. Itinerary Overview: A Seven-Day Slow-Travel Map

Transportation Budget: Flights from Mianyang were much cheaper than from Chengdu—outbound with Shandong Airlines ¥470, return with Pengxiang Airlines ¥440 (note: Pengxiang doesn't include free checked baggage). All accommodation was booked on Ctrip, offering great value for money.

III. Accommodation Recommendations: Four Guesthouses, Four Vibes

🏡 Lijiang Old Town Liangyuanju Inn | ¥102/night

The ultimate budget-friendly gem! Right after booking, the owner—a lovely young woman—called to confirm our details, earning top marks for thoughtfulness. Located on the edge of the old town, it's easy to drag suitcases over the cobblestones and convenient to get around. Perfect for travelers on a budget who still want quality.

🌸 Lijiang Tinghua Tang Garden Inn | ¥416/night

Tinghua Tang—the name alone feels romantic. This branch in Shuhe is like a miniature garden: hydrangeas, marguerite daisies, climbing roses… every corner is impossibly beautiful. The rooftop has a sunlit tea room and a swing, perfect for a full day of photos. The concierge service was excellent—they even arranged our airport transfer.

🐾 Dali Life Sometimes Boutique Hotel | ¥186/night

Tucked away on the slope of Renmin Road, it's a quiet oasis amid the bustle. The beautiful owner, a former editor at Harper's Bazaar, is said to have quite a story. The inn has a giant Labrador Retriever, and every time we returned, we saw the owner walking the dog—a scene as heartwarming as a movie.

🌅 Dali Distant Mountain Green Seaview Guesthouse | ¥646/night

The guesthouse I was most excited about, and it didn't disappoint. Located in the Haidong villa area, it's run by a family of three—a refined father, a capable son, and a gentle mother—making everyone envious. We booked a seaview garden room: open the door to a garden, and before you lies the sparkling Erhai Lake. The rooftop offers sunset views so stunning they take your breath away.

IV. Culinary Memories: A Taste of Yunnan

When it comes to food, my best friend and I believe in "going with the flow"—whatever catches our eye or mood. Lijiang and Dali's cuisine gave us some favorites and some "one-time experiences":

• 腊排骨 (smoked pork ribs): Amazing at first, but after two meals in a row, we hit a wall of aversion
• 汽锅鸡 (steam pot chicken): Decent, nothing special
• 米线 (rice noodles): A daily staple
• 饵丝 (Ersi, shredded rice cakes) / 乳扇 (Ru Shan, goat milk cheese): Honestly, not our thing 😂
• 喜洲粑粑 (Xizhou flatbread) / 饵块 (Erkuai, rice cakes): Street snacks worth trying
• 野生菌汤 (wild mushroom soup): Delicious, but available everywhere
• 鲜花饼 (flower pastries): A little is fragrant, too much gets cloying
• 纳西烤肉 (Naxi grilled meat): Crispy and flavorful
• 水性杨花 (Water Lily Stem): Don't let the name mislead you—it's a seaweed from Erhai Lake, delicious stir-fried or in soup

Must-try recommendation: 石锅鱼 (stone pot fish)! The broth is rich and savory; I couldn't stop drinking bowl after bowl. Also, Yunnan yogurt—I downed several bottles, perfectly sweet and tangy. At the old town fruit stalls, the small pineapples are incredibly sweet, and the grilled goat milk cheese has a unique milky, slightly sour taste.

Day 1: In Lijiang, Listening to the Sound of Flowers Blooming

May 5th. Our 10:45 AM flight arrived at Sanyi Airport at 12:30 PM. The inn owner arranged an airport transfer (¥80), and half an hour later, we reached the old town entrance. A five-minute walk brought us to our "Liangyuanju"—a classic Lijiang courtyard with an old iron lock on the door, exuding a sense of time.

The owner said we were lucky—it had hailed that morning, but now the sky was clear. Lijiang's weather is truly capricious: sunny enough for short sleeves, but rainy enough to need a thick jacket. I still can't figure out how I managed to pack "four seasons' worth of clothes" into a 20-inch suitcase.

The old town was bursting with flowers. Marguerite daisies were in full bloom, their petals shimmering in the sunlight. Flower-covered walls outside inns were so beautiful we couldn't help but stop and stare. Walking from Dayan toward Sifang Street, the crowds grew thicker. We headed uphill toward Lion Hill, hoping for a panoramic view of the old town, but our stomachs protested first—so we found a smoked pork rib hotpot place near Lion Hill.

This restaurant also kept rabbits, several hopping freely in the yard, and I couldn't resist petting one. The meal stretched nearly two hours—eating and resting, tired but content. From the rooftop observation deck, we could see a corner of the old town. Just as we were marveling, the sky suddenly darkened, clouds rolled in, and rain began to fall. We had to give up on climbing Lion Hill and headed back to explore the old town.

The rain gave the old town a different charm—chilly, yet more serene. An hour later, the sky cleared again. This weather was truly unpredictable. As night fell, the old town lit up, but we got lost. GPS failed us, and the alleyways all looked the same. Only after asking a young man on duty did we find our way back to the inn. Day one ended with a lost-in-the-maze moment—an unexpected little adventure.

Day 2: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain—A Spontaneous Rush

True to our laid-back style, we only decided the night before to visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Checking day tours on Lanmao, we learned the cable car has three sections: the small one to Spruce Meadow, the middle one to Yak Meadow, and the large one to the summit. Thinking there might be no snow in May, we chose the middle cable car—only to be told it was under maintenance, so we had to go to Spruce Meadow instead.

Honestly, I was a bit disappointed at first, but once we arrived, I realized: the mountain's beauty doesn't need snow to prove itself. An hour's drive from the old town brought us closer and closer to the snow-capped peaks, so majestic it left us speechless. Stepping out of the car, we were shivering from the cold. Only after donning our cold-weather gear and grabbing oxygen tanks did we feel better.

The visitor center was as clean as a five-star hotel. I took a "wimpy photo" in my thick jacket for the memory. The cable car ride lasted ten minutes to Spruce Meadow. Walking along the boardwalk, towering spruce trees stood tall and green, each one etched with the marks of time. The forest air was so fresh it made you want to take deep breaths. After less than twenty minutes, the view opened up—a vast meadow with the snow-capped Jade Dragon Mountain in the background, dotted with grazing cattle and sheep. It looked like a painting.

The weather was fickle—sunny one moment, overcast the next. Taking photos meant stripping off the cold-weather gear, then immediately putting it back on. A true "senior citizen's health retreat." The meadow wasn't as clean as in photos—cow patties were everywhere, requiring hours of Photoshop cleanup. But when the rain stopped and a sliver of blue sky appeared, everything was worth it.

Back down from Spruce Meadow, we had another smoked pork rib lunch (by now, I was starting to get sick of it). In the afternoon, we visited Blue Moon Valley, its water an azure blue, like a miniature version of Jiuzhaigou. By the lake stood a yak, motionless as a statue—only when we got closer did we realize it was real. What was it thinking? Dozens of wedding parties were taking photos there; the scenery was indeed photogenic. We headed back around 4 PM. This day was worth it. Next time, I must make it to the summit.

Day 3: Lashi Lake—Between Expectation and Reality

Lashi Lake had a reputation for "scamming tourists," but I never thought I'd fall for it. We booked a ¥160/person day tour. The morning's horse ride along the Ancient Tea Horse Road was a novelty. The groom led the horses, keeping us safe. We rode for half an hour, took a break, then descended.

Lunch was a chicken hotpot—mediocre at best, not as good as homemade. In the afternoon, we went to a "resort"—which turned out to be a basic farmhouse with artificial scenery, utterly unremarkable. Later, I learned that the nice resorts cost ¥298/person (like Cloud End Resort). As they say, you get what you pay for.

We returned to the old town at 4 PM, packed up, and took a taxi to Shuhe, checking into Tinghua Tang. The moment we stepped inside, we were blown away. The courtyard wasn't big, but it was exquisitely charming, like a fairy tale. Hydrangeas bloomed profusely, climbing roses draped the corridors, and the rooftop had a sunlit tea room and a swing. Downstairs, there was a giant teddy bear—I hugged it for photos, feeling an overwhelming sense of security.

At dusk, we strolled through Shuhe. Smaller than Dayan, but quieter. The weather was still capricious—rain for a few steps, then clear skies ten minutes later. Dinner was Yunnan-style grilled fish, a portion so large we could barely walk afterward. This day was a mix of disappointment and delight.

Day 4: Dali—Time Slows Down

We woke up early at Tinghua Tang for rice noodles, checked out, and the driver took us to Dali Station. A two-hour train ride, then a taxi to our inn. By the time we settled in, it was 3 PM. Dali's old town wasn't crowded, and the weather was pleasantly mild. We wandered slowly, exploring until evening, then had stone pot fish, completely satisfied, and returned to the inn.

Day 5: Circling Erhai Lake—One Day Isn't Enough

There are many ways to circle Erhai Lake: self-driving, scooters, jeep convoys… We opted for a private car at ¥400/day—a sedan, flexible itinerary, and easy on us. We booked the driver three days in advance. The route was: Caicun Flower Sea → Longkan Ancient Ferry → Xizhou Ancient Town → Haishe Park → Shuanglang Sea Life → Wase Little Putuo → back to the old town.

We thought we had plenty of time, but after a full loop, we didn't return until 9 PM. The driver was incredibly helpful—carried our bags and even shot a video with a drone. If you need his contact, just message me.

Caicun Flower Sea (¥10/person): The sun was intense; sunscreen is a must. Transparent glass spheres were everywhere—sit in one, and you've got a perfect shot.

Longkan Ancient Ferry: A filming location for Heart Blossoms. The inn and bar where Yuan Quan stayed are here. The bar is now closed, but the interior remains. By the dock, sunlight sparkled on the water, and distant mountains layered like an ink wash painting. The wind was strong, blowing our hair wild, but the beauty made it hard to leave.

Xizhou Ancient Town: Rustic in a way that tugs at your heart. Weathered walls, uneven cobblestones, wooden houses—all marks of time. Our driver pointed to an orange-walled courtyard, saying it belonged to a wealthy local family—a true "old money" estate. He also took us to visit an inn, reportedly run by a teacher from Sichuan Fine Arts Institute, with tasteful decor.

Haishe Park: The wind was so strong we could barely stand, and the water wasn't very clear. But the "tongue" shape of the park had a poetic feel. Life always has its little regrets.

Shuanglang: Under renovation, dusty and chaotic. We just passed by and snapped a photo. Legendary "Jesus light" appeared—breathtaking.

Sea Life (¥20/person): The quintessential Erhai photo spot—white tables and glass spheres. The venue was small but perfectly positioned. The 5 PM light was like a filter, giving us the best photos of the trip.

Wase Little Putuo: By the time we arrived, it was dusk. The sunset clouds were unreal. Back in the old town at 8:40 PM—exhausted but fulfilled.

Day 6: In Haidong, Watching the Sunset

Our last day had no special plans. In the morning, we visited Bamù Vanilla Garden (right next to Caicun Flower Sea), run by an elderly Taiwanese woman. The garden was full of flowers, perfect for photos: daisies, verbena, Eden roses… too many varieties to name. A white windmill against the sea of flowers felt straight out of a fairy tale. While posing on a swing, I laughed so awkwardly it took dozens of shots to get one decent one.

At noon, we returned to the old town for wild mushroom hotpot, bought souvenirs, and then headed to the Distant Mountain Green Seaview Guesthouse in Haidong. We almost got lost on the way, but the moment we stepped inside, we were captivated: wood interiors, linen curtains, a fully transparent bathroom, a garden just outside the door, and a view overlooking Erhai Lake. Watching the sunset from the rooftop was so beautiful it almost made me cry.

Epilogue: Goodbye, Yunnan's Colorful Clouds

Seven days, six nights. From Lijiang to Dali, from old towns to Erhai Lake, from flower seas to snow mountains, we covered a lot of ground and left behind some regrets—never made it to the summit, didn't see the bluest waters of Erhai, didn't taste all the local foods. But isn't that what travel is all about? The most beautiful scenery is always on the road; the best memories are always in your heart.

Final tips: - Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Can't say it enough - Lijiang and Dali are for slow travel—don't rush your itinerary - When circling Erhai by private car, choose a reliable driver - Try a few different guesthouses—each has its own charm - Don't expect too much from trendy spots; surprises often come when you least expect them

If we don't make a move now, we'll be too old. Next time, we'll come back.