Christmas Road Trip: Stargazing at Lugu Lake and Barbecue by Qionghai Lake

A Spontaneous Christmas Adventure

Life occasionally calls for a dash of impulsive courage. When the Christmas holiday suddenly arrived, giving us a full five days off when combined with the weekend, my wife and I exchanged a knowing smile—it was time to escape the city's chaos. Flights to distant destinations had already skyrocketed in price, a five-day tour of ancient towns around Chengdu felt a bit too extravagant, and winter driving across the western Sichuan plateau was filled with uncertainty. Just as we were hesitating, the name "Lugu Lake" popped into our minds.

Lugu Lake in winter is quiet, peaceful, and just right. Even better, the route passes through Xichang, the "City of Gastronomy," allowing us to enjoy both stunning landscapes and delicious food. And so, our family of three (plus our dog, Mili) embarked on this spontaneous journey.

Let me start with a few photos to set the mood and take you along on this unforgettable Christmas trip.

Itinerary: Not Rushing, Just Experiencing

We stuck to the principle of "no exhaustion," driving no more than 500 kilometers per day to enjoy the road trip without turning it into a race.

Schedule

• December 24: Chengdu → Xichang (450 km, about 5 hours) — Overnight at Moonlight Scenic Town
• December 25: Xichang → Lugu Lake (270 km, about 5 hours) — Overnight in Luoshui
• December 26: Lugu Lake Circumnavigation (80 km) — Overnight in Luoshui
• December 27: Lugu Lake → Xichang (270 km, about 5 hours) — Overnight at Moonlight Scenic Town
• December 28: Xichang → Chengdu (450 km, about 5 hours)

Road Conditions

Chengdu to Xichang: The entire route is on expressways, but be aware that Mount Tuowu may have winter traffic controls during extreme cold weather. Special note: There are speed cameras inside the Niba Mountain Tunnel, so watch your speed.

Xichang to Lugu Lake: The entire route is mountain roads, mostly asphalt-paved. The only hiccup is about 2 kilometers of rough road near Jinhe Township—a "no-man's-land" where our sedan could only crawl through in first gear. After that, the road opens up wonderfully, especially the stretch from Yanyuan to Lugu Lake, which is absolutely delightful. However, there are many sharp curves, so don't let the good road conditions make you careless.

Lugu Lake Circumnavigation Road: The full loop is 72 kilometers with excellent road conditions. You can rent bicycles or electric scooters locally. I recommend renting an electric scooter—you can charge it while having lunch. Cycling the entire loop would be quite exhausting, especially the pass at Lige Island, which sits at 3,700 meters elevation—even pushing a bike up there would be tough.

Weather and Gear: Essential Winter Travel Guide

Lugu Lake sits at a high altitude, with extreme temperature differences between day and night. Daytime temperatures can reach 20°C (68°F) in direct sunlight, while the coldest pre-dawn hours can drop to minus 4-5°C (23-25°F). In comparison, Qionghai has smaller temperature swings and feels more comfortable.

Important Note: If you plan to photograph the stars at Lugu Lake, bring plenty of warm clothing! Sub-zero nighttime temperatures are no joke.

Our Gear List

• Camera: Canon 5D Mark II, 17-40mm f/4L wide-angle, 70-200mm f/4L IS telephoto
• Phone: Redmi Note (for candid shots and food photos)
• Tripods: Benro A227 aluminum, Weifeng HJ-C224B carbon fiber
• Intervalometer (timed shutter release)
• Astrophotography method: Just search online—plenty of tutorials

Post-Processing

All photos were shot in RAW format. Straight-out-of-camera results weren't even as good as phone photos, so every image was adjusted in Adobe Camera Raw, exported as JPG, and then text and sizing were added in Photoshop. Star trail processing involved RAW batch processing and stacking—it's complicated enough that I'll leave the tutorials to your own research.

Christmas Eve: Xichang's Food and Qionghai's Tranquility

First Stop: Yi Ethnic Feast

December 24, Christmas Eve. We set off at 9 a.m. after the morning rush hour, singing songs and thinking about barbecue. Five hours later, we arrived in Xichang and headed straight to Laoyuejia Yi Ethnic Restaurant. As dedicated foodies, we'd already researched the menu and location in the car.

Tuotuo Rou (chunky braised pork) — The first dish made my carnivorous eyes light up. Tender meat, intense spiciness, and what seemed to be a unique Yi ethnic spice blend gave it a distinctive flavor.

Cold Tossed Eggplant — Following the pork with this was like adding fuel to the fire, but its refreshing, tangy taste was utterly addictive.

Pickled Cabbage and Potato Soup — When it arrived, we were stunned—it came in a huge basin! The aged pickled cabbage had a rich, deep flavor, mixed with some unknown herb. But why was even the soup spicy?

Buckwheat Pancakes — Finally, something non-spicy. Slightly bitter, with a pleasant texture.

These four dishes were all top-rated on review sites, and they lived up to the hype. We ate while mooching off the restaurant's WiFi to post on social media, teasing our friends who were still at work.

Christmas Eve by Qionghai Lake

After dinner, we found a guesthouse called "Humble Room Inscription" in Moonlight Scenic Town. For 118 yuan, we got a room with a king-sized bed, free breakfast, and free parking, with a view of the Qionghai sunrise right across the street.

After settling in with Mili, we walked to Qionghai Park. A sign read "No Pets Allowed," so we had to take Mili back to the car. Once inside, we spotted a dog lounging around casually—turns out dogs were allowed after all! Too bad Mili missed the evening sunset.

Qionghai is essentially a large wetland park, home to flocks of waterbirds. After a stroll, we went back to get Mili and started looking for dinner.

Sister Qu's Barbecue: An Unexpected Delight

The town's barbecue street was mostly closed due to the off-season, including the one recommended by our guesthouse owner. We stumbled upon "Sister Qu's Barbecue" stall, and the food turned out to be surprisingly excellent.

Grilled Shrimp — We ordered six skewers, then ordered six more. Even I, who usually doesn't like shrimp, ate several.

Grilled Silver Carp — We devoured both sides completely.

Grilled Chinese Chives — My favorite. Don't let the battered enamel bowl fool you—the taste was top-notch.

Grilled Erkuai (rice cakes) — Adopted from Yunnan-style cooking, with a unique flavor.

Stuffed Tofu (Baozhang Doufu) — Silky and delicious.

Grilled Eggplant — Highly praised! Unlike the Chengdu version, this one was stuffed with pickled beans, and the skin wasn't burnt at all, making for a better texture. We didn't leave a single scrap.

Grilled Chicken Wings — Absolutely satisfying.

Grilled Beef Skewers — These were just okay.

Chicken Cartilage — Delicious.

Finally, my wife decided we needed more and ordered a silver fish omelet. It turned out too oily—we only ate half. A bit of a letdown, especially for 35 yuan.

Full and happy, we returned to the guesthouse. Christmas Eve was quiet, with no sleigh bells in sight.

Christmas Day: Lugu Lake's Stars and Dawn

Early Morning at Qionghai

The next day, I pulled back the curtains at first light, hoping for colorful clouds, but saw nothing. Disappointed, I went back to sleep until full daylight, then took Mili downstairs to play by the lake.

A few photographers were scattered along the shore, capturing the sunrise. I only had my phone, so I snapped a few casual shots. Back at the guesthouse, we had the free breakfast—millet and rice porridge with steamed buns. Nothing special, but it filled our stomachs.

Heading to Lugu Lake

We set off at 10 a.m. and arrived at Lugu Lake by 3 p.m. The provincial road was in good condition, except for that rough stretch near Jinhe Township. At noon, we stopped in Yanyuan to let Mili stretch his legs, and I took the opportunity to create a "Merry Christmas" sand painting on the ground.

At the Lugu Lake entrance, we paid 100 yuan each for tickets and picked up a map before officially entering the scenic area. The sky was impossibly clear, and we couldn't resist stopping for photos.

First Impressions of Luoshui Town

Luoshui Town was packed with guesthouses and restaurants, but the off-season meant they were mostly empty. We found a nearby Sichuan restaurant and ordered Mosuo sausage and "Shuixing Yanghua" (waterborne flowers). The dish names sounded lovely, but the flavors couldn't compare to Xichang's—though they were decent enough with rice. "Shuixing Yanghua" had a texture similar to okra from the supermarket, smooth and slippery.

After eating, we found the "Starting Point" guesthouse at 140 yuan per night. The room had a private balcony, perfect for setting up a tripod to photograph the stars—exactly what we wanted.

Astrophotography: A Battle with Light Pollution

The sky was cloudless, meaning no spectacular sunset. I quickly took a few shots and waited for nightfall to capture the stars.

But the guesthouse was brightly lit, creating severe light pollution. The plan to shoot stars from the balcony fell through—the results were terrible. I managed a few long-exposure shots with the telephoto lens.

Restless, I grabbed my camera and tripod and ran down to the lakeside, trying to escape the row of red lanterns. On the quiet shores of Lugu Lake, a solitary figure appeared, frantically photographing lonely trees.

I'd brought an ultra-bright flashlight, but it backfired—the cold light hitting the trees created a stark, ugly white patch. The stars over the lake were faintly visible, including the Milky Way, but the bright ground ruined the effect. The trees' red and yellow colors came entirely from the lanterns behind them.

At minus 4-5°C (23-25°F) in December, I didn't have the courage to stay by the lake alone for long. With a few friends and a bottle of baijiu each, chatting and photographing together, I'm sure we could have captured much better shots.

After the red lanterns went out, I shot 60 stacked images for a star trail photo from the balcony, but I think I got the alignment wrong. Too lazy to adjust properly, I set everything up hastily and went back to bed, leaving my little camera to endure the cold outside.

Christmas Morning at Lugu Lake

My alarm went off at 6 a.m. The sky was slowly turning pale, with a few faint stars still visible. As the sun rose, the lake was coated in gold, and more people began to gather along the shore.

Mili got himself into trouble with a female dog in heat, chasing after her and sniffing her rear, running so far that he wouldn't come back when called—a total traitor!

My wife also woke up, and we took photos together in the morning light. Early morning at Lugu Lake, with few people around, was pure luxury!

Circumnavigation: The Luxury of the Off-Season

Grand Grass Sea and the Marriage Bridge

After a 10-yuan bowl of chicken rice noodles, we set off on our lake tour. We took a panoramic shot at the Grand Grass Sea viewpoint, then headed to the Marriage Bridge. Bathed in sunlight, we strolled leisurely across the bridge.

I, the driver, was feeling a bit off—maybe from the change in water or mild altitude sickness. We found a quiet spot, opened the car doors, and soaked up the sun. Mili happily panted along.

Goddess Bay and Lige Island

The advantage of the off-season: the legendary "pig-trough boats" floated empty on the lake, unattended. In the distance, Goddess Gemu Mountain glowed in what I'd call "serenity blue."

At Goddess Bay, long water grasses swayed in the crystal-clear water, the lake's surface as still as a mirror. According to Mosuo folklore, Gemu and Houlong were once lovers who practiced "walking marriage" (a local custom). Jealous gods turned them into mountains, forever separated by the lake.

Finally, we reached Lige Island, where there were more people—a whole seven or eight of them. The 80-kilometer loop had left me a bit visually fatigued. The sky was too blue, the lake too blue—beauty everywhere.

Sichuan Fragrance Garden's Cuisine

My head was still spinning, and my stomach felt off. I bought a bottle of Huoxiang Zhengqi Liquid (a traditional Chinese herbal remedy for digestive issues), and felt better immediately. After resting at the guesthouse, we went to "Sichuan Fragrance Garden," discovered through reviews.

Tree Bark Stir-Fried with Eggs — Turns out tree bark isn't hard at all; it's very tender.

Fried Ribs — Paired with mint, creating a unique aroma.

Light Soup — To cut through the richness of the past few days.

The ceiling was covered in graffiti, evidence of the many writers and artists who had passed through.

The Last Night of Stars

The sky remained cloudless again, just like the night before. Combined with my fatigue, I didn't continue photographing the stars. I rested well, preparing for the drive ahead.

Return Journey: Xichang's Surprises and Farewells

Yanyuan's Lamb Rice Noodles

We checked out at 10 a.m. and drove toward Yanyuan. White clouds began to appear in the sky—something we'd longed for at Lugu Lake but never saw—blooming along the road. Such is fate!

At noon, we arrived in Yanyuan and enjoyed a hearty bowl of lamb rice noodles and crispy pork rice noodles, paired with my favorite pickled vegetables. Absolutely delicious.

Wooden Barrel Fish: Proof of Xichang's Gastronomic Reputation

In the afternoon, we reached the city and tried to find a recommended roast suckling pig restaurant, but came up empty. Frustrated, we returned to Qionghai and stayed at the Humble Room Inscription again. This time, we upgraded to a fourth-floor deluxe room with a lake view, at an upgraded price of 138 yuan.

Dinner was the best meal of the trip, proving Xichang's reputation as the "City of Gastronomy." At Lufeng Hui Wooden Barrel Fish, across from Moonlight Scenic Town, we had a uniquely prepared fish dish.

A layer of hot stones was placed at the bottom of a wooden barrel, then sliced fish fillets were thrown in with a sizzling sound. Boiling fish head soup was poured over, the lid closed, and it steamed for three to five minutes. The broth was rich, the fish tender, with cucumber slices and tomatoes inside. We mixed our own dipping sauce—absolutely amazing! Silver carp cost 38 yuan per catty (about 500 grams), and we ordered a 2.6-catty fish, totaling 130 yuan.

Pictures? We were too busy eating to remember!

Qionghai's Morning and Farewell

The clouds from the road didn't dissipate, lingering into the next morning at Qionghai. I grabbed my gear and headed to the lake for a shooting spree. As the sun rose, hundreds of fishing boats glided from north to south. Hungry red-billed gulls soared freely among the bread and crackers thrown by visitors.

Mili, as always, left his mark everywhere. He seemed to say, "I just want to be a handsome gentleman in peace." I replied, "You're just a red-circle dog lens" (a playful jab at Canon's L-series lenses).

As the clouds cleared, we set off on our journey home. On the Yaxi Expressway, we saw rows of snow-capped mountains—a breathtaking sight. But the camera was in the trunk, and the windshield was too dirty. Some beautiful moments, once missed, are gone forever.

Conclusion: Dust to Dust

Dust to dust, home to work and everyday life. Farewell, Lugu Lake. Farewell, Qionghai.

I will return, will return, return, turn...

Key Tips Summary

Cost Reference (Family of three, five days and four nights)

Essential Items - Winter warm clothing (nighttime temperatures of minus 4-5°C / 23-25°F) - Wide-angle lens + tripod (essential for astrophotography) - Flashlight (be cautious with cold light sources) - Huoxiang Zhengqi Liquid (for adjusting to new environments)

Best Season: Winter offers fewer crowds and peace, but be prepared for cold weather. For star photography, try to stay away from light sources.

Food Recommendations: Xichang's Yi ethnic dishes, barbecue, and wooden barrel fish; Lugu Lake's chicken rice noodles and Mosuo sausage.

Travel is nothing more than a spontaneous indulgence. And this Christmas trip to Lugu Lake, under the stars and amid the warmth of street food, let us rediscover life in its most authentic form.