A Solo Journey to Yunnan: Shuanglang Chapter — Meeting Your Truest Self by the Erhai Lake

Introduction: When a Dream Finally Becomes Reality

Some say Yunnan is a place meant for solo travelers. It took me three full years to truly understand that.

Two years ago, I planned a trip to Lijiang but ended up in Sanya instead. Last year, I put Lijiang on my itinerary again, only to wind up in Xiamen by a twist of fate. It wasn't until this year that this long-cherished wish finally took root. I started planning in late March — booking flights, reserving guesthouses, poring over travel guides. Everything was proceeding step by step — until I realized that what truly drew me wasn't the overdeveloped old town of Lijiang, but a place called Shuanglang.

Many people ask me: aren't you afraid to travel alone? What if you run into trouble? Who will take your photos? To be honest, I had my doubts before setting off. But once you take that first step, every problem finds its answer along the way. And Shuanglang was the place that made all my worries vanish into thin air.

First Stop: A Departure Worthy of a Comedy of Errors

The Ordeal from Kunming to Dali

Shuanglang is a small town in the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture. There are no direct flights from Shanghai to Dali, so I planned to fly to Kunming first, then take an overnight train to arrive in Dali the next morning, and finally transfer to Shuanglang. Sounded perfect, right? Well, reality had other plans.

After booking my flight to Kunming, I went to purchase a train ticket from Kunming to Dali for that same evening — only to find every single ticket already sold out. In that moment, I was completely stunned. My carefully crafted itinerary had just fallen apart.

The only option was to get to Kunming and try my luck at the train station, hoping someone had returned a ticket. On the plane, the flight attendant handed me a cup of Pu'er tea — indeed, this was a flight to Yunnan, where even the beverages carry local flavor. But my mood was anything but relaxed.

Helplessness and a Turning Point at the Train Station

After landing at Kunming Changshui Airport in the afternoon, I immediately grabbed a taxi and rushed to the train station. I waited in a long line at the ticket counter, only to receive the same answer: "No tickets available." Dragging a huge suitcase and carrying a massive backpack, I stood alone in the train station square, looking around desperately for scalpers. But I'd heard they were cracking down hard, and scalpers had all but disappeared.

Just as I was about to give up hope, I spotted a travel agency by the square. On a whim, I walked in and asked, "Do you have any transport to Dali tonight? I can pay for a ride." The staff member told me their bus was already full of tourists with no empty seats. But then she added, "You can go to the bus station and take an overnight sleeper bus. You'll arrive in Dali by morning!"

A sleeper bus? My eyes lit up. I immediately hauled my luggage to Kunming's Western Bus Station and bought a ticket for the 8 PM sleeper. Once I boarded, I realized the bus was packed with people who looked like migrant workers, many of them with tough, intimidating expressions. That night, I was too scared to close my eyes. It wasn't until we arrived at Dali's Xiaguan Bus Station the next morning that I finally breathed a sigh of relief.

At Xiaguan Station, I was told I needed to go to Xiaguan North Station to catch a bus to Shuanglang. So I dragged my luggage all over again, finally making it onto the 8:30 AM minibus. As the minibus pulled out of Xiaguan, the scenery outside suddenly opened up — the Erhai Lake shimmered under the sunlight, and the distant Cangshan Mountains stood like ink-wash paintings. I knew my destination was near.

Second Stop: First Impressions of Shuanglang — Exploration Begins at the Guesthouse

Choosing a Guesthouse: Fame Doesn't Equal Experience

At 10 AM, I finally set foot in Shuanglang. I had booked "Haidilife Guesthouse" on Mafengwo — supposedly the first guesthouse in Shuanglang, with quite a reputation. After getting off the bus, a kind elderly woman offered to guide me, walking with me for about ten minutes to deliver me to my destination.

However, the actual experience left me somewhat disappointed. Since I booked late, I could only get a bed in an 8-person sea-view dormitory. The room was mediocre, and the service left much to be desired. At the Haidilife café, the yogurt was stiff and hard, and the tiramisu had clearly been frozen for ages — not fresh at all. So my advice is: Don't blindly chase famous names. Book your guesthouse at least a month and a half in advance, read plenty of reviews, and find the one that truly suits you.

Guesthouses Worth Checking Out

Right next to Haidilife is the wildly popular "Peninsula 63 Guesthouse." When I called on April 1st to make a reservation, I was told they were booked until after May 21st — that's how popular it is. I couldn't get a room, but I went in for a look, and it really does have a lot of character.

Another one called "Canghai Yishu" (A Glimpse of the Sea) has a fantastic environment, directly facing the Erhai Lake, and is conveniently located. If you're after peace and quiet with great views, this would be an excellent choice.

Third Stop: A Taste of Shuanglang — A Food Map

The Restaurants That Let Us Down

For my first meal in Shuanglang, I went to a place called "Jixiang Hong" (Lucky Red), which was highly recommended in online guides. A fellow solo traveler I met had done her homework before coming and said it was supposed to be great. After we finished eating, our conclusion was unanimous: The guides are nonsense! The food was mediocre, the prices were steep, and it was completely not worth the hype.

The Places Truly Worth Trying

Amigo Restaurant: This is a French-run restaurant that almost all the locals know about. The owner is a genuine Frenchman, and the food is authentic and delicious. Definitely worth a visit.

Mumian Desserts (Kapok Desserts): This place has an excellent reputation, and the desserts really are good. But you absolutely have to go early! We arrived around 5 PM and were told most items were already sold out. People who came later didn't even get crumbs.

Youyuan BBQ (Destined BBQ): This is a local favorite. Many guesthouse owners and dessert shop employees love eating here. I highly recommend their braised noodles and fried chicken skin — the flavor is incredible, and I still crave it to this day.

Aizhe Shenghuo Guesthouse (Love This Life Guesthouse): The French owner and his Chinese wife have a romantic love story. I had strawberry yogurt there at noon and came back for barbecue in the evening. Even though nobody knew each other, the atmosphere was wonderful, and we all had a great time.

Fourth Stop: Slow Time by the Erhai Lake

Strolling Along the Lakeshore

I walked along the Erhai Lake, stopping now and then to snack, take photos, and just soak it all in. Along the way, I met a young woman from Beijing who was also traveling solo — she was incredibly nice. We ended up walking together, taking pictures for each other, and chatting happily.

Many people worry about not having anyone to take photos for them when traveling alone, but that's really not a problem. You'll meet plenty of other solo travelers on the road, and everyone helps each other out. You might even find a travel companion. Traveling alone actually makes it easier to make new friends.

Yang Liping's Sun Palace and Fensi

Shuanglang has another must-see spot — Yang Liping's Sun Palace. This building sits by the Erhai Lake, with a unique design full of artistic flair. Her sister's hotel, "Fensi," is also quite famous and worth a visit if you're interested.

The Bai People's Bonfire Party

In the evening, the Bai people hold bonfire parties. Passing tourists are warmly invited to join in the dancing. The pure, unadulterated joy is infectious — you can't help but sway to the rhythm. This is Shuanglang at its most captivating: raw, authentic hospitality untouched by commercialization.

Fifth Stop: A Solo Journey, A Solo Harvest

Warm Moments Along the Way

During my few days in Shuanglang, I met so many people. A young man carried my camera for two days, following me around and taking shots with a surprisingly professional flair. Guesthouse owners shared their love stories. Locals recommended hidden culinary gems. Every single moment made this journey uniquely mine.

The Meaning of Traveling Alone

In truth, traveling alone isn't scary at all. It gives you the chance to truly listen to your own voice. You discover that the world is much bigger than you imagined, and your life always has an exit. When you face the unknown on your own, you realize you have wings — and you don't need anyone's permission to fly.

Every day in Shuanglang, I thought, I felt, I recorded. No noise from companions, no pressure from a packed schedule — just me and this vast landscape. A solo journey is a deep conversation with yourself.

Conclusion: Shuanglang Is Worth the Journey

The beauty of Shuanglang lies in its raw, unspoiled character. Though signs of commercialization are starting to appear, compared to Lijiang, it still retains the purest Bai culture and the most pristine views of the Erhai Lake. If you want to go, go soon — before it becomes overdeveloped, while it's still the Shuanglang that captures hearts.

Finally, a few tips for those about to set off:

1. Book in advance: Train tickets, guesthouses — everything needs to be booked ahead, especially during peak season.
2. Don't blindly trust guides: Others' recommendations may not suit you. Ask the locals instead.
3. Slow down: Shuanglang isn't a place to check off a list. It's meant for leisurely wandering and quiet appreciation.
4. Be brave and go: Solo travel isn't as hard as you imagine. Take that first step, and everything will fall into place.

May you, too, meet your truest self in Shuanglang.

This article is original content. Reproduction without permission is prohibited.