Dali Family Trip: Four Days Embracing the Gentle Erhai Lake

TES – Travel, Eat, and Shoot.

Foreword: An Embrace That Came More Than a Decade Late

To be honest, my first visit to Dali was over ten years ago. I was young back then, on a rushed two-day, one-night trip. I left without even catching a single glimpse of Erhai Lake. For years afterward, thinking back on it, that trip felt like a complete waste—like visiting an old friend and not even recognizing their face.

So this time, when the "one trip per month" KPI before our little Watermelon's kindergarten graduation landed on April, I didn't hesitate to lock in Dali. No other reason—I just wanted to make up for that old regret, to spend four days soaking in Erhai Lake from every possible angle.

On April 19, 2023, our family of three flew with the wind straight to Dali.

📍 Itinerary Overview: Circling Erhai Lake, Unlocking Three Faces

Our route was simple—we went around the entire lake. From south to west to east, over four nights and five days, we unlocked three distinct faces of Erhai at the most comfortable pace:

• Stop 1: Southern Erhai · Binhai Boulevard — First encounter, a resort vibe blending modernity with nature
• Stop 2: Western Erhai · Xizhou Ancient Town — Closest to what you'd imagine, so peaceful it makes you want to zone out
• Stop 3: Eastern Erhai · Shuanglang Ancient Town — Passionate and lively, perfect for a spirited farewell

Stop 1: Southern Erhai — First Encounter, a Collision of Sunlight and Speed

🏨 Hotel Indigo Dali Erhai: Living Inside the Scenery

Choosing accommodation in Dali was a no-brainer—lake view, lake view, and more lake view!

As a die-hard IHG fan, with an extra boost from a bank promotion, we went straight for this Indigo on Binhai Boulevard along the southern shore. Two nights: one standard room and one 140-degree lake-view room, totaling 1,400 RMB. The value was solid.

The first night's mountain-view room looked out onto bare hills, which was a bit disappointing. But the moment we switched to the lake-view room the next night—wow. Through the open vanity mirror, your gaze shot straight through the floor-to-ceiling windows and landed on the entire expanse of Erhai. That ultra-transparent design made you gasp out loud.

The hotel's biggest draw was that nearly every window could produce a stunning photo. And the rooftop pool took it to the extreme—through the glass, you could swim while gazing at the lake. Even though a wildfire in Yunnan's Yuxi had left the air a bit hazy, sunlight still danced on the water, shimmering and impossibly beautiful.

The minibar was completely free—soft drinks plus Dali's famous "Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon" beer. Sipping one while lying in bed at night was pure bliss.

Breakfast was at the first-floor buffet. I highly recommend the local Dali specialty 饵丝 (Ersi)—sliced rice cakes, soft and chewy, topped with a generous helping of minced meat sauce. One bowl and you're energized. The 喜洲粑粑 (Xizhou flatbread) was also a hit with our little one.

🏎️ Dali Luge Theme Park: Speed and Thrills, a Must for Families

Before coming to Dali, this was the place I was most excited about—China's first LUGE racing park. No engine, just gravity pulling you down the slope. All you do is control the brakes. Sounds simple? Don't underestimate it—if you don't brake, you're flying off the track, one way or another.

We bought a 388 RMB family package (three-run card). Our kid rode with one adult in one cart, and we each did three runs in separate carts—just enough to get a good fix. Helmets and knee pads were provided, and you could even rent a phone mount to strap to yourself for selfies (way more thoughtful than the Singapore Luge).

The track had forks, and staff would point out which side was better for beginners. But from personal experience—as long as you know how to brake, no track is too hard. The more thrilling ones just had a little jump that got your heart racing.

At the bottom, a cable car took you back to the start. But if the wind was strong, the cable car would stop, and you'd have to wait or find another way up.

The biggest surprise was the photo zone by the track—a little white house perched on the cliff edge. Sitting there with Erhai Lake behind you, the photos were stunning. Even if you didn't race, coming here for a coffee and a view of the lake was worth it.

One last tip: secure your camera gear! My GoPro flew off mid-run. Luckily, it didn't break, and a staff member helped retrieve it. Safety first!

🍽️ Tailaijin Dai-Thai Fusion: A Feast for the Senses at a Lakeside Restaurant

We didn't want to travel far on the first day, so we ate near the hotel. This restaurant on Binhai Boulevard had a prime location—just a short walk from the hotel.

We arrived early and got a window seat with a direct view of Erhai. While waiting for our food, we could cross the road for photos. During the meal, convertibles and stylish passersby rolled by outside, cranking up the vacation vibe.

The place specialized in Thai hotpot and Thai cuisine, but as a Dai-Thai fusion, it also had unique ethnic flavors you wouldn't find at a regular Thai restaurant. Here are the must-tries:

• Thai Lemongrass Tofu: Coated and deep-fried, crispy outside and molten inside. One bite and it bursts—dip it in sweet chili sauce, perfection.
• Signature Secret-Recipe Charcoal-Grilled Pork Neck: Lean and chewy, with a rich charcoal aroma. Even our kid loved it.
• Mango Sticky Rice: Blue-and-white two-tone sticky rice, paired with fresh mango, ice cream, and a special dipping sauce. Layers of texture and flavor.
• Signature Tailaijin Lemon Sea Bass: Sour and spicy, made to order, incredibly fresh.

Don't forget to order a Thai milk tea. The cup holder had the word "Dali" printed on it—perfect for a photo op by the lake.

⛰️ Dali Erhai Park: An Unexpected Hike

From the name, I expected a casual park. But no—it was a hike! Entering from the north gate, a long staircase led straight to the top. Four sections of stairs, each with a small landing to rest and take in the lake views. The higher you climbed, the more the scenery changed.

If it weren't for our little Watermelon's love of climbing, we might have given up. But at the top, the vast expanse of Erhai Lake opened up before us, making even the fisherwoman statue below look tiny—it was all worth it.

The actual park was at the summit, stretching east to west. It was quiet, with hardly anyone around. We could stop anytime to look at flowers, snap photos, undisturbed. The park had dense trees, little bridges over streams, pavilions, and plenty of bridal photo shoots—happy couples everywhere.

If you didn't want to go back the same way, you could head south to a large flower cultivation base. Flower lovers, don't miss it.

🍽️ Mengmaoyuan Dai Restaurant: Authentic Dai Flavors

For lunch on day two, we headed west along Binhai Boulevard to Yangbi Road—a street full of local favorites.

The restaurant's name came from a Dai town in Dehong, Ruili, Yunnan. The decor was distinctly ethnic: bamboo-mat partitions, bamboo tables, and quirky little decorations everywhere. It felt like stepping into a Dai household. The staff were incredibly welcoming and even brought out small snacks while we waited.

Their standout was a giant bamboo platter with a six-item combo, loaded with six different specialties. The presentation was amazing, and the value was unbeatable. Our family of three ordered one and had plenty.

• Grilled Pork Belly: Thick-cut, crispy on the outside, dusted with a special spicy powder. Pure happiness in every bite.
• Lemongrass Grilled Fish: Traditional preparation, perfectly cooked through, all the flavors absorbed, yet still tender.
• Paoluda (泡鲁达): A coconut milk drink with crunchy bread pieces—a dark horse in the dessert world. Our kid adored it.
• Tri-Color Sticky Rice with "Ghost Chicken": A classic combo, rich in aroma.

🍄 Yuncai Wild Mushroom Hotpot: The Taste of Yunnan, a Soulful Bite

For dinner, we found ourselves at Kunbaita Taiye City and zeroed in on this wild mushroom hotpot place. It was a well-known Yunnan chain with branches in both Dali and Kunming.

From the moment we walked in, the strong Yunnan ethnic vibe hit us. The staff handed out snacks and balloons, and our little one was instantly won over.

Their three treasures—wild mushroom broth, wild mushroom platter, and mushroom king sauce—proved that mushrooms alone could carry an entire hotpot restaurant. The mushroom broth was a must: a generous pile of mushrooms covering the surface, a taste you only get in Yunnan. If you love spice, go for the鸳鸯锅 (dual-flavor pot)—the pickled vegetable broth was tangy and fiery.

The best pairing with the mushroom broth was wagyu beef—fresh, high-quality, and when dipped in the mushroom soup, it absorbed all that umami. Add a vegetable-and-mushroom platter, and you're set.

For a main, go for the cold rice noodles with mushroom sauce. It came in a huge portion, tossed with the secret mushroom king sauce—refreshing and appetite-whetting.

🎬 Bonus: Watching "Slam Dunk" in Dali

It just so happened that the "Slam Dunk" movie was playing during our visit. As an '80s couple who'd watched the anime series nearly ten times, how could we miss it? That evening, we took Watermelon to Bona Cinema in the city center and got three tickets.

Watching that movie in faraway Dali, reminiscing about our youth, was a surreal experience. Watermelon was the only kid born after 2010 in the theater, but he was completely captivated.

Stop 2: Western Erhai — Xizhou, Closest to What You Imagine

After saying goodbye to Binhai Boulevard in the south, we switched to tourist mode. We stopped by Dali Ancient City and the Three Pagodas for a quick look, then headed straight for Xizhou.

🏰 Dali Ancient City: A Controversial Must-Visit

Some say Dali Ancient City is the essence of history; others claim it's too commercialized to be worth it. I decided to judge with my own feet.

The ancient city was huge—it would take at least a full day to explore it all. We just picked corners that interested us. Entering through the south gate's "Land of Literature and Fame" arch, we scanned the QR code to register, then headed north along Fuxing Road, past Wuhua Tower, all the way to the north gate. This was the busiest stretch, but there was plenty to see and do.

Street stalls lined the path. We bought 乳扇 (milk fan), but it wasn't really to my taste. Both the south gate tower and Wuhua Tower were climbable, offering views of the ancient city and distant mountains—quite charming.

The city housed a Dali Museum and a Marble Local Records Museum, worth a visit if you're interested. We had lunch at a Bai-style barbecue place, afternoon tea at the Persimmon Tree Café, and crossed the bridge noodles (过桥米线) at the city gate. Overall, plenty of dining options with good value.

As evening fell, we found an ethnic costume photography shop near the city gate and tried on some minority outfits at Longquan Lane. The posing was a bit formulaic, but it was fun to create some lasting memories. A rainbow appeared after the rain during our shoot, making up for the fact that we hadn't seen the perfect blue sky.

☕️ Persimmon Tree Café: An Artsy Corner in the Ancient City

Tired from walking, we followed some school kids into Huguo Road and stumbled upon the Persimmon Tree Café at the intersection. Fun fact: this café sat right at the center of the ancient city, meaning no matter which gate you entered from, you'd have to walk a fair bit—but that also meant, by the time you got here, you really needed a break.

The café was small but oozed artistic vibes: guitars, violins, and vinyl records on the walls, an old-school radio next to a local hand drum, and an unfinished painting on an easel. While waiting for your coffee, you could browse around—you might find something unexpected.

A little square table and two chairs sat outside, the doorway covered by a cascade of red flowers. One snap and you had an artsy masterpiece.

Stop 3: Eastern Erhai — Shuanglang, a Spirited Farewell

Why do so many people flock to Shuanglang despite the crowds? One reason only: the Erhai Lake here is so beautiful that you willingly squeeze in with everyone else.

At noon, with the sun blazing, it was the perfect time to see Shuanglang's Erhai. Don't mind the crowds—the lake welcomed you with equal warmth. Pick a restaurant or café to gaze at the water, or hop on a cruise to float right on the lake and experience the charm of Nanzhao Island.

Saying a passionate goodbye to Erhai here felt just right.

Final Thoughts: Embracing Erhai Lake in the Most Comfortable Way

Four days, one full circle around the lake. From south to west to east, I saw three sides of Erhai: the modernity and energy of the south, the peace and gentleness of the west, the passion and grandeur of the east.

If you ask me which angle is most beautiful, I'd say every angle is, but the one that moved me most was the Xizhou side—no cars, no crowds, just Erhai, sunlight, and the wind. Find a corner, sit facing the lake, take photos, listen to music, or simply let your mind wander—that's embracing the gentle Erhai in the most comfortable way.

As for the version of myself who left without seeing the lake over a decade ago—I can finally let that go.

💡 Practical Tips

1. Transportation: Fly direct from Hangzhou to Dali Fengyi Airport. Timing works well, but strong winds can cause delays.
2. Accommodation: Lake-view rooms are a must. Hotel Indigo offers great value, and IHG members get discounts.
3. Luge: A must for families. The 388 RMB three-run card is enough. Remember to secure your camera gear.
4. Erhai Park: Despite the name "park," it's a hike. Skip it if you're not up for stairs.
5. Ancient City: Luggage can be stored for free at the visitor center (pick up before 5 PM) or for a fee at travel agencies.
6. Food: Dai restaurants, wild mushroom hotpot, and Thai cuisine are all worth trying. Don't miss 饵丝 (Ersi) and 泡鲁达 (Paoluda).