For You, I Promise a Sunny Day: Our Love Journey Through Yunnan (Kunming—Dali—Lijiang—Xishuangbanna)

There are moments in life when you realize love isn't complicated at all. It's the quiet certainty that someone will be there—through foggy flights, early mornings, and winding roads. It's the decision to trade routine for adventure, to chase sunsets across a province, and to promise, without hesitation, a sky full of sunshine.

This is the story of an eight-day journey through Yunnan, a place where love feels as natural as the air you breathe. From the cobblestone alleys of Lijiang to the tranquil shores of Erhai Lake, from the tropical embrace of Xishuangbanna to the vibrant heart of Kunming—this is our love trip, and I'm taking you along.

Destination: Yunnan, China

• Travel Dates: December 20–27, 2014
• Duration: 8 days
• Travelers: Couple
• Route: Kunming → Dali → Lijiang → Xishuangbanna

Day 1: Kunming – First Light and Feathered Friends

The alarm rang at an ungodly hour on December 20. Our flight from Beijing Capital Airport (Terminal 2) was scheduled for 06:40, but fate had other plans. A thick blanket of fog over Kunming forced our plane to divert to Chengdu. By the time we touched down at Changshui International Airport, it was already 1:00 PM.

But Yunnan doesn't hold grudges. The moment we stepped outside, the sun wrapped around us like a warm embrace—a welcome contrast to Beijing's biting December chill.

First stop: Cuihu Park (Green Lake Park).

Since 1985, thousands of black-headed gulls have migrated from Siberia to spend winter in Kunming. By late December, the lake is a sea of white wings and cheerful squawks. We bought three bags of bread for 10 yuan and watched as my partner fed them from a paddleboat. The birds were fearless, almost polite, swooping down with gentle precision.

Pro tip: If you want a more dramatic experience, head to Haigeng Dam, where the gull population is even denser. But Cuihu is more accessible and equally magical—especially around 5:00 PM, when the birds begin their evening retreat, painting the sunset with motion.

Afterward, we strolled to Yunnan University, just a short walk from the park. The campus, with its colonial-era architecture and quiet pathways, felt like a sanctuary. We grabbed a bowl of 过桥米线 (crossing-the-bridge noodles) at a nearby shop—not the most authentic, but it warmed us up.

By 8:00 PM, we were on the overnight train to Lijiang. The train arrived an hour early the next morning—one of those "Yunnan oddities" you learn to expect.

Day 2–3: Lijiang – The City of Slow Mornings and Ancient Dreams

Lijiang's Old Town (Dayan Ancient City) comes alive around 11:00 AM. But I love it at dawn—empty streets, cold air, and the sound of water trickling through canals.

We checked into Youjia Inn (39 Bayi Xia Duan, Qiyi Street), then moved to Spring-Autumn Viewing Inn on Lion Hill for the second night. The latter offers a panoramic view of the entire old town—a must for photographers.

What to Do in Lijiang:

• Walk barefoot on the stone streets – The smooth, sun-warmed cobblestones tell stories of centuries.
• Visit the Mu Residence – It's interesting but not essential; we skipped it after a quick look.
• Climb Lion Hill – For the best views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance.
• Find a quiet café – We settled into a second-floor café overlooking the rooftops. Coffee, fresh bread, and silence.

Lijiang Oddities (The 18 Quirks of Yunnan)

1. Eggs sold on skewers.
2. Cakes called 饵块 (erkuai, a kind of rice cake).
3. Three mosquitoes make a dish.
4. Stones grow to the sky.
5. Straw hats become pot lids.
6. All-season clothing.
7. Old ladies are expert farmers.
8. Bamboo tubes become water pipes.
9. Tiny horses are incredibly strong.
10. Grasshoppers are bar snacks.
11. Good vegetables all year.
12. Good cigarettes are never sold.
13. Straw sells overseas.
14. Trains are slower than buses.
15. Men carry babies.
16. Caves rival fairylands.
17. 过桥米线 (crossing-the-bridge noodles) are loved by all.
18. Flowers bloom all year.

Evening in Lijiang

At night, the old town transforms. Lanterns flicker, music spills from bars, and the canals reflect a thousand lights. We stood on the second-floor balcony of our inn, listening to a love song drifting from a distant pub. I thought: This is what peace feels like.

Day 4: Lashihai & Shuhe – Horses, Lakes, and Quiet Streets

We booked a day trip to Lashihai Lake and the Ancient Tea Horse Road for 150 yuan per person, including a lunch of 土鸡火锅 (clay pot chicken). The broth was unforgettable.

Horseback riding tip: Don't wear a hat. If the wind blows it off, the horse might spook. I learned this the hard way.

The ride through the Tea Horse Road was scenic but dusty. The real joy came when we reached Lashihai and climbed into a kayak. The sun was brutal—sunscreen is non-negotiable—but the water was calm, and the mountains framed the horizon.

After lunch, we headed to Shuhe Ancient Town. Quieter than Lijiang, Shuhe feels like a ghost town in winter. But that's its charm. We bought eight braided hair bands for 10 yuan, wandered empty streets, and sat in a courtyard doing absolutely nothing.

Verdict: Shuhe is perfect for shopping (bargains galore) and introspection. Not so much for nightlife.

Day 5–6: Shuanglang – Where Dreams Meet the Sea

"If you fall in love with a place because of a movie, you're not alone."

For us, that place was Shuanglang. After watching Heartflower Road (心花路放), we knew we had to go west to Dali.

The bus from Lijiang took two hours (69 yuan via Taobao). Shuanglang was under construction—everywhere, new inns were rising. But even amidst the chaos, it was breathtaking.

Where We Stayed:

• Nuan Nuan Hostel – A wooden loft with a garden terrace and a view of Erhai Lake. The room was called "Garden Star Suite," and it was our first pleasant surprise.
• Ban Cun Ri Guang Inn – Our second night, closer to the lake.

The White Table and Chairs

This iconic photo spot is a must. You'll see it everywhere on Instagram—a simple white table and high chairs against the blue of Erhai. We waited in line, took our shot, and moved on.

Cycling Around Erhai

We rented a scooter and rode from Shuanglang to Wase. This stretch is often called "China's most beautiful lakeside route." The road hugs the shore, with blooming cosmos flowers (格桑花, Gesanghua) lining the path. The gulls here are even more abundant than in Kunming, and they love 小熊饼干 (bear-shaped cookies).

Christmas Eve in Dali

Dali Old Town on Christmas Eve is a spectacle. Locals and tourists alike spray fake snow, wear masks, and throw foam at each other. It's chaotic, joyful, and utterly unforgettable. We arrived just in time to be ambushed by a group of teenagers in raincoats. By the end, we looked like snowmen.

Tip: Wear a raincoat. Bring goggles if you can.

Day 7–8: Xishuangbanna – The Tropical Dream

From Dali, we flew to Xishuangbanna. The temperature jumped from 15°C to 30°C. Suddenly, we were in summer.

Accommodation: Youminzhijia Inn

This family-run guesthouse in Jinghong's Gaozhuang Xishuang Jing district was the best service we experienced. Free airport pickup, a dedicated driver for sightseeing, and genuine warmth from the father-son duo. Highly recommended.

Day 1: Manting Park & Grand Buddha Temple

Manting Park feels like Alice in Wonderland—tropical plants, golden stupas, and peacocks roaming freely. The Grand Buddha Temple (大佛寺, Da Fo Si) offers panoramic views of the city. We ended the day at the Jinghong Night Market, where we devoured: - 香茅草烤鱼 (lemongrass grilled fish) - 菠萝饭 (pineapple rice) - 巴拉达 (Indian-style pancake) - Fresh sugarcane juice

Day 2: Jinuo Village & Tropical Rainforest

The Jinuo people are the last officially recognized ethnic minority in China. Their name means "descendants of the uncle," and they lived in harmony with the rainforest for centuries. We visited their village, where our guide showed us how they use bamboo for everything—from cooking utensils to musical instruments.

The rainforest itself was a sensory overload: the calls of unknown birds, the scent of damp earth, and the occasional glimpse of a wild orchid. We hiked for two hours, stopping to taste wild honey straight from the hive.

Final stop: The night market again. We couldn't resist one more round of 香茅草烤鱼 (lemongrass grilled fish) and 菠萝饭 (pineapple rice).

Epilogue: Love Isn't Complicated

On our last morning, we sat on the balcony of Youminzhijia Inn, watching the sun rise over the tropical canopy. My partner turned to me and said, "You know, I think this is what happiness feels like."

And I agreed.

Yunnan taught us that love isn't about grand gestures or perfect plans. It's about fog that forces you to wait, trains that arrive early, and strangers who become friends. It's about saying yes to a horse ride even when you're scared, and eating grilled fish at a night market at midnight.

It's about promising someone a sunny day—and meaning it.

If you go: - Bring layers. Yunnan's weather changes faster than a mood ring. - Book trains and flights in advance, especially during peak season. - Learn a few phrases in local dialects—it opens doors. - And most importantly: travel with someone who makes the detours worthwhile.

This article was originally posted on Mafengwo. All prices and experiences reflect the 2014 trip.