Idle Clouds in Autumn, a Moonlit City: A Slow Travelogue Through Lijiang and Shuhe

When the autumn wind brushes across the ancient city's eaves, when sunlight spills onto the mottled cobblestone streets, when the melodies of folk songs mingle with the aroma of plum wine drifting through the air—I knew it was time to set out. Not to chase after tourist attractions, not to check in at Instagram-worthy spots, but to encounter a real Lijiang, one that breathes both the warmth of everyday life and the poetry of timeless beauty.

Before Departure: Ramblings About This Trip

Travel Companions and Budget

Two people, one backpack, and a heart ready to go at a moment's notice. Per person cost: approximately 1,500 yuan (secret: haggle hard, and successfully avoid the Ancient City Maintenance Fee).

Itinerary at a Glance

• Day 1: Chengdu → Lijiang (7:15 AM flight, ticket 430 yuan), stay at "One Meter Sunshine · Deyi Residence" in Dayan Old Town, double bed room 150 yuan
• Day 2: Dayan → Shuhe Ancient Town, stay at "Good Life" café skylight room, 80 yuan
• Day 3: Lijiang → Chengdu (4:30 PM flight, ticket 380 yuan)

Practical Tips

1. Airport to Old Town: Take the airport shuttle bus first, then a taxi for 8 yuan to reach Dayan Old Town.
2. Dayan to Shuhe: Exit Dayan's main gate, turn right, and near "Likelong" supermarket, catch a local minivan for 2 yuan per person—it drops you deep inside the ancient town.
3. About Scenic Spots: This method won't get you into paid attractions like Black Dragon Pool. Want to save money? Hide your camera, pretend to be an elderly morning exerciser, and sneak in with the crowd—of course, if caught, you'll have to slink away in embarrassment.
4. Climate Reminder: It's dry! Big temperature swings between day and night. Bundle up at night, moisturize during the day, or your skin will rebel.
5. Bar Avoidance: The dense row of riverside bars is overpriced and tacky. Instead, duck into a small shop down an alley, order a glass of the owner's homemade brew, sit around with wandering musicians as they strum and sing, and listen to their tales of trekking through Mêdog (Moyu).
6. The Truth About "Romantic Encounters": Don't count on it. I did have a woman approach me once—scared me so much my hair stood on end.
7. Price Reference: This trip was last year; prices have crept up a bit since, but room for haggling still exists.

Chapter One: Sights—Two Lijiangs, Three Kinds of People

I saw two completely different Lijiangs: one swarming with tour groups, noisy as a market; the other tucked away in narrow alleys, peaceful as a painting.

I also encountered three kinds of people: the ordinary tourists, part of the masses; the foreign friends being shown off by their Chinese companions; and the middle-aged men on company-funded trips, with leering eyes—when they spotted a pretty woman, they'd squint, scanning her from head to toe, then from toe to head.

Dayan Old Town: Time's Imprint on Blue Stone

The journey began the moment I stepped onto the blue stone. The slabs, polished smooth by countless footsteps over centuries, shimmered enticingly in the sunset glow.

Bar Street had long been thoroughly commercialized. Branches of "One Meter Sunshine" and "Riding Alone for Thousands of Miles" were everywhere. The so-called "fountain" was a joke—they'd simply stuck a rubber hose in, fixed it to the dragon's chin with wire. It made you laugh and shake your head.

At the main entrance, the waterwheel was packed with tour groups queuing for photos. We skirted the crowd and headed toward Black Dragon Pool. Since we hadn't bought a combo ticket, we could only wander around the entrance—but at least it was peaceful.

Shuhe Ancient Town: Slow Life by the Water

In Shuhe, water was everywhere. Streams cut through the town, their murmuring flow like the ancient town's own breath.

Basking in the sun by the water, daydreaming, letting your mind drift—this was Shuhe's eternal theme. Day and night, a serene atmosphere pervaded the place. Wandering musicians cradled guitars, singing their own songs and selling their self-produced CDs. Occasionally, a big bar would host a touring show—I remember seeing a poster for Li Zhi (a famous Chinese folk singer).

In the evening, you could sit by the small river and eat barbecue. Strangely enough—no mosquitoes.

A Workshop of Tie-Dyed Cloth

We bought a few tablecloths at a tucked-away little shop. The owner's opening price wasn't low, but we haggled it down by more than half. Remember: the more remote the shop, the more room you have to bargain.

Chapter Two: Food—Lijiang Memories on the Tongue

When it comes to food, I have so much to say.

Fried Snack Stalls

Roadside frying stalls were everywhere, selling potato cakes, cured pork, sausages, small fish... just a few yuan each. Sprinkle on chili powder and pepper—simple, but deeply satisfying.

Dairy Products

Bottled yak milk was just okay, but the boxed "Diequan" brand milk from the supermarket (New Hope Dairy, 3.5 yuan per box) was a pleasant surprise—rich and delicious. Highly recommended.

Yak Meat

Yak meat shops dotted the old town, but the prices were a bit steep, so I didn't buy any. However, I went into every single one for a free sample—and thus, I ate a lot of free yak meat. Quantity turned into quality, and I felt I'd had my fill.

Rolled Tobacco

There was a kind of tobacco rolled in leaves, green like lotus leaves, sold by mobile vendors. I bought the extra-large pack, haggled down to 20 yuan (100 sticks), and handed them out. Everyone who tried one said it was "heavy-duty," coughing their lungs out. I also picked up 100 thin silver bracelets for 10 yuan and handed those out too.

Lijiang Bāba (Fried Flatbread)

It's essentially a dough cake fried in oil, brushed with a layer of spicy sauce. The flatbread itself is nothing special—the sauce is the soul. Shops in the busy lower part of town only apply a thin layer, but halfway up the hill, under a big tree, an auntie sets up a morning stall with a variety of homemade sauces: stir-fried green, red, and yellow peppers, tiny chili peppers, fermented bean curd sauce, spicy sauce... You can even pull up a little stool and eat slowly. The stir-fried peppers were especially fragrant.

Iron-Plate Tofu

I stumbled upon a mobile stall. The tofu skin was crispy, and when you bit into it, the center burst with juice. Absolutely heavenly.

Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles (Guoqiao Mixian)

It was okay, but didn't leave a lasting impression.

Various Restaurants

Many places had great ambiance, but the food was average—so average that I've forgotten the taste of Naxi grilled fish and chicken bean jelly (jiliang fen).

Favorite: Mamma Mia

The owner was an Italian old man who spoke a bit of Chinese. The pizza and handmade ice cream were very authentic, with generous, quality ingredients. Cheaper than Pizza Hut, but much better tasting. The shop's dog had an air of absolute authority. We sat by the river, letting the breeze blow, soaking up the sun, and eating—a perfect trinity.

Chapter Three: Lodging—Slowly Selecting in the Old Town

Dayan Old Town: A Chance Encounter on the Hillside

We made it a habit to wander from inn to inn, slowly choosing our spot. It took over an hour, nearly crossing the entire old town, walking from the bottom of the hill all the way up the slope. We looked at countless guesthouses, asked countless prices, and finally decided to stay halfway up.

One Meter Sunshine · Deyi Residence (Hillside branch, 2nd-floor double bed room 150 yuan, off-season so rooms were freely available)

Maybe it wasn't the best, but it was the first place we stayed in Lijiang. We found it just when we were tired from walking, the price was right, and we liked the layout. It was a guesthouse built into the hillside, with a front yard, a back yard, and a viewing platform overlooking the old town—all at different levels. The room facilities were close to four-star standard, and from the platform, you could see most of the old town's scenery.

Shuhe Ancient Town: Two Hours of Idle Browsing

Feeling particularly leisurely, my companion and I spent two or three hours visiting many guesthouses. We'd ask about prices and rooms with earnest expressions, then pretend we were poor students who couldn't afford them and walk away helplessly. My companion ignored the owners' annoyed looks and snapped plenty of photos.

Good Life · Café Branch: The entrance faced south, so it was bathed in sunlight. A small stream flowed across the front, and there were a few large African djembe drums you could tap on. Seeing we were two poor students, the owner gave us a rate of 80 yuan per night. The room was on the second floor, with a large glass window overlooking the courtyard and a skylight so you could lie in bed and count stars.

Dong Chang (The Eastern Factory): Full of character—the name made you think of Ming Dynasty eunuchs. The best second-floor rooms started at 150 yuan. We moved on.

Forgotten Name No. 1: The courtyard and lobby were amazing. In the yard, a large sofa draped with flowing fabric; in the lobby, lush green plants. First floor: 220 yuan (damp). Second floor good rooms: 300+. Couldn't afford it. We left behind a desolate silhouette.

Forgotten Name No. 2: Japanese-style garden courtyard. The upstairs rooms had large glass windows, priced around 200–300 yuan. The owner was a beautiful woman, and there was a big dog that slept all day in the yard.

Forgotten Name No. 3: An exquisite courtyard that seemed almost deserted. We wandered around for ages before the owner appeared. Also 200–300 yuan per room.

Epilogue: A Few Final Words About This Trip

After organizing all this, I suddenly wondered: Does Lugu Lake count as part of Lijiang? I think I still have a few photos I didn't include.

But it doesn't matter. Lijiang was never a place to be "checked off a list." It's a slow journey, a conversation with yourself, a chance—in the gentle haze of plum wine, in the melodies of folk songs, in the echoes of cobblestones—to find the version of yourself that life had worn smooth.

If you want to go too, remember three things: haggle hard, apply sunscreen diligently, and let your heart slow down.