In Dali: Encountering a Tale of Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight

Escaping Xi'an's "Oven" for an Unknown Rendezvous

In August, Xi'an's asphalt roads were hot enough to fry an egg. Pan Nainai (Granny Pan) touched her youthful heart, glanced at the smug "Big Wet" (her travel companion's nickname) beside her, and decisively declared: We need to get out. Where to? Southeast Asia? Big Wet rolled his eyes, claiming the heat there would send him straight into early menopause. Shanghai? Pan Nainai pinched the spare tire around her waist and silently withdrew that idea.

Qinghai Lake would have been a solid choice, but word on the street was that Chaka Salt Lake had been trampled into a muddy pit. Plus, a friend had crashed into a minority-owned yak while driving and had to shell out 250,000 yuan to settle the matter—Big Wet's face turned paler than the poor yak's when he heard that number. He vetoed it on the spot. And so, Dali just "casually" crashed into our itinerary.

Honestly, before departure, my imagination of Dali was nothing more than blue skies, white clouds, Cangshan Mountain, Erhai Lake, and artsy strumming guitarists. But after this trip, I realized: Dali isn't meant to be imagined—it's meant to be "encountered." You encounter a rainstorm, an illness, the tragedy of a lost phone, and also a truly authentic experience of wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight.

Pre-Trip Prep: Don't Let the Weather Forecast Scare You, But Sunscreen Is a Must

What to Wear: Maxi Dresses Are Handy, But Pants Reign Supreme

Mid-August in Dali is neither hot nor cold, but the temperature swings will make you question your sanity. When the sun's out during the day, you'll want to strip naked; at night, you'll be reaching for a down comforter. So, jackets and long pants are non-negotiable. Pan Nainai used to be a jeans addict, but after college, she got too chubby to squeeze into them (a truly tragic tale), so she switched to maxi dresses. Dresses offer sun protection and make for great photos, but let's be honest—pants are way more practical for travel.

I packed a mountain of clothes, headbands, prop flowers, and accessories, plus Big Wet's stuff, toiletries, and a tripod. Somehow, everything fit into a single 20-inch carry-on suitcase. Don't ask me how—Big Wet was the one who packed it all anyway.

Weather: Monsoon Thunderstorms Almost Had Me Begging for Mercy

Yunnan's rainy season hits in July and August, and we happened to slam right into it. Before departure, I checked the forecast: three different locations, all showing thunderstorms for an entire week. I seriously wondered if our plane would even make it. But when we arrived, it rained for two days and then cleared up. We happened to be in Xizhou for the Torch Festival, and the locals said, "Once the Torch Festival is over, the rain stops." And sure enough, it did.

My advice: avoid the rainy season. Yunnan's rain comes and goes in spurts, but there's no guarantee it won't pour for days on end. Also, sunscreen is mandatory—rain or shine. We thought we could skip it since it was raining, but then the rain suddenly stopped, the sun came out for five minutes, and we got burned. Back in Xi'an, our skin peeled off layer by layer, and we turned as dark as "Black Dog" (a Chinese slang term for very tanned skin).

Route & Budget: A "Cursed" Journey

Our itinerary was hilariously inefficient: originally, we planned to fly to Lijiang early on August 8th, but our flight was canceled. We had to buy last-minute, sky-high tickets to Kunming instead. Then Big Wet ran a fever for a day in Dali, our e-bike got a flat tire from broken glass, and finally, in Kunming, his iPhone 6 was stolen at Jinma Biji Square... He swore he'd never set foot in Yunnan again.

Total cost for two people: around 12,000 RMB (approx. $1,700 USD), including flights, accommodation, meals, and transport. Our route: Kunming → Xizhou → Shuanglang → Shaxi → Dali Old Town → Kunming. It was tight, but each place is small enough to explore in a day or two.

Xizhou: A Little Town That Makes You Want to "Stick Around Forever"

Compared to the noisy chaos of Lijiang and Dali Old Town, Xizhou is almost unfairly charming. It's not overly developed. You can see everything in a day, but you could also spend a week there without getting bored.

Rice Paddies, Little Bridges, and Rain

Xizhou has a stretch of rice paddies—highly recommended. Whether under overcast calm or blazing sunshine, this tranquil patch of land can freeze time into a peaceful stillness. The white houses in the distance are quintessentially Xizhou. After the rain, the fields smell of damp earth and rainwater, punctuated by a few frog calls.

One early morning, I braved the rain to snap some photos of the paddies. The sky was barely light, and I stumbled through the mud, my spirits washed away by the downpour. But when I saw the shots, everything was worth it.

Food Recommendations: Mo Shang and Xizhou Baba

• Mo Shang (陌上): Their spicy chicken is solid. Try their plum wine, braised brisket pot, Dai-style sour-spicy fish, and eggplant casserole.
• Xiao Duan Kitchen (小段厨房): Also decent.
• Xizhou Rice Noodles (喜洲米线): Any random shop is good.
• Xizhou Crispy Baba (喜洲破酥粑粑): A must-try local flatbread.

Accommodation: Dali Jiyisi Ancient Garden Inn (大理己已巳古迹花园客栈)

This was the most surprising inn I've ever stayed at—bar none. The whole place was drenched from the rain, so we couldn't go out and just took selfies in the room. No air conditioning; we were freezing and caught a mild cold. A packet of Banlangen (Chinese herbal cold remedy) the next morning, and I was back in action. Breakfast was simple: rice porridge, steamed buns, and pickled veggies—humble but heartwarming.

Haishé Park: The "Tongue" Sticking into Erhai Lake

Haishé Park is a bit of a walk from Xizhou town—definitely don't attempt it on foot. The park is largely undeveloped and free to enter. Decayed, withered tree branches jut out of the water at odd angles. It's eerily lifeless yet strangely vibrant. Who says Dali only looks good under blue skies? I actually prefer the gloomy weather.

0.01 minutes before the sun came out, my skin was still pale. Five minutes later, I looked like a boiled crab. My hands turned into "fat claws," and they still haven't lightened up.

The Couple Trees: Highly, Highly Recommended

On the west side of Haishé Park, there are two trees known as the "Couple Trees." I recommend them with the intensity of a wall collapsing. After returning from Haishé Park to Xizhou, we hired a car to Shuanglang for 100 RMB (about $14 USD), roughly an hour's drive.

Shuanglang: An Artsy Dream in a "Construction Site"

Before I write about Shuanglang, let me, the queen of complaints, take a moment to silently vent.

Reality vs. Fantasy

Not checking the guidebook had consequences: we stumbled into Shuanglang Ancient Town—a filthy, chaotic, construction-ridden fishing village. Hotels were being built everywhere, dust was flying, power lines hung crookedly, and cement trucks were parked on the roadside. Where was the promised bohemian paradise? My eyes! My poor eyes!

Evening was worse. Traffic jammed into a golden mess. Artsy guitar-strumming youths? Girls sipping plum wine? None of that. Just scaffolding and reinforced concrete.

The White Bench and Queue for Photos

The most frustrating part: I searched Shuanglang on Weibo, and the feed was flooded with people queuing up to take photos on the white bench at Haidi Life (海地生活). The caption: "If you haven't been here, you haven't been to Shuanglang." Big Wet asked, "So these people wait in line for hours to take the same photo, and that makes them artsy?" I replied, "Only you reading Dostoevsky and Truman Capote counts as artsy. These people are just pretending."

Pretending ain't easy. So pretend while you can.

Cycling Around Erhai: E-bike and 45-Degree Skyward Gaze

Despite the disappointment of Shuanglang town, the scenery along Erhai Lake was breathtaking. We rented an e-bike and rode around the lake. The abundant sunlight pierced through the clouds and glazed the water with gold. Pan Nainai wore a dress that blended into the lake, achieving a new level of idiocy.

There's a pier in Wase that extends into the lake. Word has it someone drowned there, so be careful if you go.

Food Recommendation: Gu Yu Xiang (古渔香)

Located near Shuanglang Primary School. Try their grilled pork belly, old lady potatoes (mashed potatoes), braised chicken, and silver fish omelet.

Shaxi: Lijiang Ten Years Ago

Shaxi Ancient Town is supposedly what Lijiang looked like a decade ago. Go now, while it's still relatively unknown and the roads are still rough.

Small but Beautiful: Half a Day Is Enough

Shaxi is even smaller than Xizhou, but next time, I hope to stay here for a long time. An ancient stage, a few horses for tourists to ride, some small shops—everything plays its part quietly.

Big Wet said this photo looks like a National Geographic cover. I believed him.

Couple Photos? Not Happening.

Normal couple photos? We don't have those. Pan Nainai's vibe can't hold for more than three seconds: first second is normal, second second is a split personality, third second is a complete meltdown.

Dali Old Town: Skip It If You Can

Dali Old Town... if you can avoid it, do. Unless you love commercial ancient towns that all look the same, or you enjoy squeezing into wannabe-cool bars with middle-aged uncles at night.

Are Broke People Not Welcome in Ancient Towns?

A few years ago, there was a post titled "Broke People Don't Belong in Ancient Towns." The gist: every ancient town has a legend about someone who strolled in from a bustling metropolis, was moved by the scenery, quit their million-yuan-a-year job, and stayed to pursue the true meaning of life. So hordes of successful young people with six-figure salaries wrap themselves in 25-yuan ethnic shawls, sway in 30-yuan maxi dresses, and walk barefoot on 1990s cobblestone streets.

That rant had a loser's soul at its core. No matter how elegantly you frame it, it's still a loser's mentality. Travel is travel—have fun, enjoy yourself. Why all the pretentious 45-degree skyward melancholy?

Big Wet Got Sick

We only went to Dali Old Town as a transit point for Shaxi, but Big Wet ended up running a fever, so we were stuck there for two days. The skinny guy had to get an IV drip at the hospital. So fragile.

Xiao Duan Kitchen: Meh

The place praised by pop star Faye Wong? Meh. The only good thing was the yogurt. I couldn't taste anything special in the other dishes. The signature pork ribs were sweet—an absolute no-go for someone from Shaanxi. I went out and had a bowl of rice noodles instead. Life was complete again.

Kunming: Lost Phone and Flower Market

We'd just arrived in Kunming when Big Wet's iPhone 6 was stolen at Jinma Biji Square. Living in Xi'an, a city notorious for pickpockets, and getting robbed in Kunming? That was just too much.

The next day, we went to Dounan Flower Market. We didn't catch the bustling midnight scene, but it was still a feast for the eyes.

Photography Tips: How to Get "Crowd-Free" Photos

1. Wake Up Early

The golden rule for avoiding crowds is to wake up early. If you can get up at 6 AM, don't wait until 7. Morning light is much kinder than the harsh midday sun.

2. Dress Well

As a travel-photo obsessive, I always prepare my outfits in advance. I think through which colors go with which scenes before I leave. When I'm old, I want to flip through the album and have something to remember.

3. Watch Out for Backlighting

No one wants a photo where their face is just a black shadow.

4. The Secret to "No Crowds"

Behind every beautiful photo is a story of someone silently carrying a tripod and trudging through mud. Why do the scenic spots look empty? Because no one else is willing to step into the mud.

Conclusion: Dali Isn't Meant to Be Imagined

This trip to Dali had canceled flights, high fevers, flat tires, and a stolen phone. But it also had more surprises. The rice paddies of Xizhou, the withered trees of Haishé, the ancient stage of Shaxi, the sunset over Erhai—these images will stay with me forever.

Dali isn't meant to be imagined. It's meant to be "encountered." You encounter a rainstorm, an illness, the tragedy of a lost phone—and also a wind, flower, snow, and moonlight that are truly your own.

See you in the next post. Mwah.

Practical Tips Summary: - Best Season: Avoid the July-August rainy season. Choose September-October or March-May. - Sunscreen: Apply it rain or shine. - Transport: Dali to Shaxi car hire costs about 400-700 RMB round trip. Ask your inn for a recommended driver. - Accommodation: In Xizhou, try Jiyisi Inn. In Shuanglang, go for a lake-view room by Erhai. - Food: Mo Shang and Xiao Duan Kitchen in Xizhou; Gu Yu Xiang in Shuanglang; proceed with caution on Xiao Duan Kitchen in Dali Old Town. - Photography: Wake up early, dress well, watch the light, and don't be afraid to step in mud.

Sina Weibo: @司徒卷卷. Hit me up if you have questions.