Leaving My Heart in Yunnan: A 9-Day Soulful Journey (Lijiang + Lugu Lake + Shangri-La)

Some say travel is a ritual of making peace with yourself—a chance to rediscover long-lost emotions in unfamiliar lands. When my plans for Jiuzhaigou fell through and my dreams of Daocheng Yading were put on hold, Yunnan—a place I had longed for but never dared to touch lightly—unexpectedly burst into my life. In May 2013, my friend "Fatty" and I packed our bags and spent nine days writing a story of love and faith in the land of colorful clouds.

Before Departure: A Spontaneous Rush

For me, Yunnan had always been a distant destination that required careful preparation. But fate works in mysterious ways—when our original itinerary fell apart and a nine-day gap suddenly appeared, the name Yunnan shone like a light, illuminating all my confusion. Though the decision was rushed, the preparation could not be sloppy. From flights to accommodations, from attractions to food, I pieced together every day like a puzzle, arranging everything meticulously.

It seemed the heavens were especially kind to this trip. I heard it rained in Yunnan before we arrived and after we left, but during our stay, the sun shone brightly every single day. Of course, the price was—I, being lazy, couldn't be bothered to apply sunscreen, and ended up with a peeling nose. So, dear beauty-conscious ladies, sunscreen, hats, sunglasses, shawls, and hydrating face masks—don't leave any of them behind!

Itinerary Overview: A 9-Day Deep Dive into Yunnan

D1: Fuzhou → Lijiang (via Kunming transfer)
D2: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (private car package at 510 RMB, including the big cable car)
D3: Shuhe Ancient Town + Baisha Ancient Town
D4: Lijiang Old Town (Mu Palace, Black Dragon Pool)
D5: Lijiang → Lugu Lake (shuttle bus, 6-7 hours)
D6: Lugu Lake Circumnavigation (private car at 300 RMB per vehicle)
D7: Lugu Lake → Lijiang → Shangri-La
D8: Songzanlin Monastery + Napahai Lake + Dukezong Ancient Town
D9: Shangri-La → Fuzhou

Total cost: approximately 5,300 RMB per person, with flights taking up the largest portion.

Lijiang: More Than Just Romance—It's About Finding Yourself

First Impressions of the Old Town: The Dual Life of Bustle and Tranquility

Before coming to Lijiang, I had heard countless stories about it—escaping, zoning out, sunbathing, romance... I wanted to find that state of mind too, but it wasn't until I was about to leave that I vaguely touched that sense of melancholy and reluctance. During the day, the old town's food streets were packed with crowds, clothing shops dazzled with variety, and inns each had their own character. The sense of leisure and laziness seemed diluted by commercialism.

But if you're willing to wake up early and wander into less crowded alleys, you'll discover another Lijiang. The smooth cobblestone streets tell tales of a bygone era. In a Naxi-style courtyard house, sitting in the open patio playing with a dog and chatting with the innkeeper—that's the most authentic Lijiang life.

As night falls, red lanterns are hung high, and the sky turns a clear blue—a shade that has long disappeared from our cities. Around 8 p.m., the sunset begins. Sitting on the rooftop, gazing at the starry sky, you'll realize how close the stars feel.

Mu Palace: A 340-Year Legacy of the Chieftain

"North has the Forbidden City, south has Mu Palace"—this saying is no exaggeration. Mu Palace was originally the residence of the Lijiang chieftain during the Ming Dynasty. Admission is 60 RMB, but if you buy through your inn, it's only 40-50 RMB. Follow a free guide, and you'll be deeply impressed by this 340-year-old architectural complex.

From Mu Palace, you can overlook the entire old town. The Jade Sound Tower, the Sanqing Hall, the Ten Thousand Volumes Tower—every spot is worth a pause. Interestingly, Naxi women hold high social status, so in carvings, the phoenix is placed above the dragon. The stone lions in front of the Ten Thousand Volumes Tower are majestic, and from one window, you can even see the distant snow-capped mountains.

Food Memories: Lijiang on the Tip of Your Tongue

Lijiang's food is one of my most unforgettable memories of this trip. All kinds of rice noodles (mixian) taste amazing—generous portions at low prices, 15-18 RMB per serving. At one noodle shop, an elderly woman who had been making rice noodles for over 30 years told me that her broth was made fresh every morning, and that beef broth was more fragrant than pork broth. She always urged customers to finish the soup—it was fine if they couldn't finish the noodles.

I tried everything: chicken bean jelly (jiliang liangfen), cured pork ribs (la paigu), fried milk fan (zha rushan, with a rich milky flavor), blood sausage (mi guanchang), and Lijiang flatbread (lijiang baba, available in sweet and savory versions). But what I craved most was yak yogurt—lightly sweet, I had to have one bottle every day, 5 RMB each. An'an Yogurt wasn't much different from supermarket brands, but it was thick and generous. Their fruit yogurt was especially famous—a large plate of fruit topped with plenty of yogurt.

Shuhe Ancient Town: Better for Killing Time Than Dayan

If you find Dayan Old Town too noisy, head to Shuhe. There are noticeably fewer people here, and the moment you enter, you feel a sense of tranquility. Shuhe's bars have more character than Dayan's—singers strum slowly, and people sit by the water in small groups, utterly at ease.

But a word of caution: unless you're a cycling enthusiast, don't rent a bike to go to Shuhe like I did! I rented a regular women's bicycle while everyone else had mountain bikes. On slightly uphill roads, I pedaled until my legs trembled and nearly passed out from the sun. By the time I reached Baisha Ancient Town, I had no energy left. Just take the bus—it's easier and more relaxing.

Lugu Lake: The Right Way to Experience Paradise on Earth

First Glimpse: A Bumpy Ride Worth Every Jolt

The road to Lugu Lake is a scenic journey in itself. The mountain roads twist and turn, and the Jinsha River winds through the mountains like a green silk ribbon. But this road is also prone to landslides—heavy rain can block it entirely. Along the way, we saw piles of gravel and mud on the roadside, filling us with a mix of tension and anticipation.

When Lugu Lake finally appeared before our eyes, every bump was worth it. The water was a clear blue, dotted with floating "water hyacinth" (shuixing yanghua, an edible aquatic plant). Every step revealed a new view, like being inside a painting.

The Lake Circumnavigation: A Dreamlike Experience at Every Turn

We chose to hire a private car for the lake tour, 300 RMB per vehicle, which can hold up to eight people—easy to share with others. The driver stopped at almost every scenic spot for photos, with no time limit. Unfortunately, they no longer take the route through Zhaojia Bay, which is a pity—I heard it's beautiful too.

The Grass Sea (caohai), the Lover's Tree (qingren shu, though one branch broke off a few years ago, it's still stunning), and Lige Peninsula—every spot was breathtakingly beautiful. Looking down from halfway up the mountain, you could see the iconic buildings of Lige Peninsula in full view. The Lover's Beach and Grass Sea on the Sichuan side were relatively plain, but the Walking Marriage Bridge (zouhun qiao) was still worth a visit.

Staying at Colorful Lige: A Fairytale Experience

This time, we stayed at Colorful Lige (Wucai Lige). The name was beautiful, the building was beautiful, and the owner was beautiful too. I loved their balcony—perfect for brewing tea, chatting, enjoying the lake view, and stargazing. I had never seen such a beautiful night; the stars seemed within arm's reach.

Pig-Trough Boats and Water Hyacinth: Lugu Lake's Unique Marks

At Lugu Lake, you must ride a pig-trough boat (zhucao chuan), eat barbecue, and gaze at the star-filled sky. Taking a pig-trough boat to Liwu Bi Island (also called Tusi Island) costs 50 RMB per person round trip. There's a temple on the island that only the chieftain could visit in the past.

Water hyacinth can be grilled or stir-fried, but I always felt it was too beautiful to be on a plate—it belongs in the water.

The Legend of Lugu Lake

A touching story is told locally: Long ago, this area was a village. An orphan boy, while herding sheep in the mountains, dreamed of a giant fish that told him to cut off its flesh to eat. Later, greedy people tried to claim the fish for themselves. They used nine horses and nine oxen to pull the fish out of a cave, but water burst forth, flooding the village. A Mosuo woman, as the flood came, placed her two children into a pig trough but drowned herself. The two children drifted in the trough and later became the ancestors of this place. To honor that great mother, people began making "pig-trough boats" from single logs, and Lugu Lake became known as the Mother Lake.

Shangri-La: A Pilgrimage of Faith and Devotion

Dukezong Ancient Town: A Perfect Showcase of Tibetan Style

Our final stop was Shangri-La, where we stayed in Dukezong Ancient Town. The Tibetan people are incredibly warm, and everyone here practices Tibetan Buddhism.

The buildings in Dukezong are all in Tibetan style, which I absolutely loved. In Turtle Mountain Park (Guishan Gongyuan), there's the world's largest prayer wheel. Turning it requires collective effort. The cheers and shouts can be heard from the foot of the mountain. When spinning the wheel, a local master (Zhaxi shifu) taught me: you must turn it an odd number of times—1, 3, 5—never an even number. Though I couldn't learn Tibetan, silently reciting prayers in Chinese was fine—faith transcends language as long as you're sincere.

Songzanlin Monastery: The Awe of the "Little Potala Palace"

Ganden Songzanlin Monastery was my main reason for coming to Shangri-La. It is the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan Province, often called the "Little Potala Palace." Admission is 115 RMB, including the scenic area shuttle bus.

Standing so close to Tibetan Buddhism for the first time, approaching step by step, watching the colorful prayer flags flutter in the wind, I couldn't contain my excitement. The Auspicious Deer and Dharma Wheel motif—a golden eight-spoked wheel flanked by two deer—represents the Buddha's first sermon at Deer Park. The deer kneel peacefully and obediently on either side of the wheel, the male on the right and the female on the left.

Napahai Lake and Yila Grassland

After leaving Songzanlin Monastery, you can conveniently visit Napahai Lake (also known as Yila Grassland). A private car for both attractions costs 50 RMB per vehicle, and Napahai admission is 60 RMB. If you want to go horseback riding, prices range from 280 to 380 RMB depending on the route.

An Unexpected Discovery at the Museum

On Moonlight Square (Yueguang Guangchang) in Dukezong Ancient Town, there's the Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Museum. We arrived just as it was closing, but an elderly gentleman specially opened the first-floor exhibition hall, gave us a tour, and explained everything in detail. He had worked at the museum his entire life and surely wanted those stories to live on.

The most awe-inspiring exhibits were the giant thangka paintings and the kapala bowl—a ritual vessel made from the skull of an accomplished lama. Only the highest-ranking chieftain could wear tiger-skin clothing; other nobles could only wear leopard skin. The deep green threads on the garments were woven from peacock feathers—breathtakingly beautiful.

Final Thoughts: On the Meaning of Travel

In this nine-day Yunnan journey, what attracted me most was actually Shangri-La, yet I left it the least time. I hope there will be another chance to visit all the places I missed.

Some say travel is just a backpack, a DSLR, and a heart ready to go at a moment's notice. But for me, travel is more like a ritual of dialogue with myself. In Lijiang, I learned to find peace amidst the noise. At Lugu Lake, I understood what true paradise looks like. In Shangri-La, I felt the power of faith.

I don't know what Lugu Lake would look like without its blue skies and white clouds. I only hope I can keep gazing at this incredibly beautiful moment. I've heard that a highway and an airport will be built here in the future—I can't imagine what it will become. I hope such a paradise never becomes just a memory.

Practical Tips: - Sun Protection: Yunnan's UV rays are extremely strong. Sunscreen, hats, sunglasses, and shawls are essential. - Altitude Sickness: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Shangri-La are at high altitudes. Bring oxygen canisters and a down jacket. - Transportation: Book the shuttle bus from Lijiang to Lugu Lake in advance. Round-trip tickets are more cost-effective. - Accommodation: There are many inns in Lijiang Old Town. Choose a Naxi-style courtyard house for an authentic experience. - Food: Don't miss yak yogurt, various rice noodles, chicken bean jelly, and cured pork ribs.

The land of colorful clouds—you did not disappoint. I believe everyone who has been there understands its charm. Leaving my heart in Yunnan isn't just because of its beauty, but because there, we rediscovered emotions we had long forgotten.