Lijiang & Lugu Lake: Six Years Later, That Moonlight Still Shines Softly

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"The places worth going to have no shortcuts."

Prologue: From Eighteen to My Twenties, Two Encounters with Lijiang

Six years ago, I had just finished the college entrance exam, like a little bird freshly released from its cage. I followed my best friend's family on a group tour to Lijiang. It was the first city of my travel life—naive, excited, curious about everything.

Six years later, I set foot on this land again, this time with my mom and cousin. Although I haven't traveled to that many countries or cities, I can now plan independent trips calmly and take my family along for the fun. Looking back, these six years have unfolded the world before me bit by bit, and Lijiang has always been that gentle moonlight in my heart.

Returning to Lijiang, retracing those old paths, I found it even more beautiful than I remembered—better facilities, better food, and most importantly, I finally made it to the Lugu Lake I'd been longing for. This feeling of walking while remembering, looking while feeling moved—it's absolutely wonderful.

Itinerary Overview: A Spontaneous Yunnan Adventure

Destination: Yunnan Province
Travel Dates: March 17–24, 2018 (8 days)
Cost Per Person: Approximately 4,000 RMB (about $580 USD)
Travel Companions: Family trip (me, my mom, my cousin)

Route at a Glance

• March 17: Wandering Lijiang Old Town, staying in Dayan Ancient Town
• March 18: Lashihai Lake + Tea Horse Road horse riding, staying in Dayan Ancient Town
• March 19: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, staying in Dayan Ancient Town
• March 20: Morning departure to Lugu Lake, afternoon stroll in Lige Village, staying in Lige
• March 21: Private car lake circuit tour, staying at Miyue Inn Xiaoyuba in Daluoshui
• March 22: Morning photos at the inn, afternoon return to Lijiang, staying in Shuhe Ancient Town
• March 23: Full day in Shuhe Ancient Town (evening spontaneous visit to Mu Mansion)
• March 24: Baisha Ancient Town + Shuhe Ancient Town for the Sanduo Festival ceremony

Since the itinerary was quite casual, I'll organize by area rather than date. Tips and accommodation/food recommendations are at the end, but I seriously suggest you check the lodging and food sections first—during those days in Lijiang, I ate and slept so well that when I got home, I stepped on the scale and howled.

Lijiang Old Town: A Gentler Girl Than I Remember

Although Lijiang has been labeled "over-commercialized" and "unsafe" over the years, it's still so beautiful in my memories. When I saw the flight tickets weren't expensive, I grabbed them without hesitation. Then a week later, another flight with better timing turned out to be 150 RMB cheaper—500 RMB for three people! Ouch.

But the moment I entered the old town, all the annoyance vanished.

The Big Waterwheel and Dongba Wind Chimes: Familiar Formula, Unchanged Prices

There it was—the familiar big waterwheel, the rows of Dongba wind chimes. What I never expected? In 2012, a wishing wind chime cost 35 RMB. In 2018, it was still 35 RMB. Did the shopkeeper think they'd overcharged six years ago and didn't dare raise the price?

Turning into the alleys, that strange yet familiar feeling washed over me. No matter how commercialized, Lijiang Old Town is still stunningly beautiful, and it knows it. If the old town could be personified, it would be a gentle girl—so beautiful you'd willingly forgive all her imperfections.

A Public Restroom That Wows? Lijiang's Attention to Detail

Another "never expected"—this was the exterior wall of a public restroom! Lijiang Old Town's public toilets look like guesthouses from the outside, with antique-style lamps inside, automatic flushing, and even self-replacing disposable toilet seat covers. Every restroom I used was spotless, completely shattering my stereotypes about public toilets in China.

The second time I was looking for one, I actually mistook it for a guesthouse and couldn't find it—three attempts to enter the restroom and failing. That's a new experience.

African Drums and "Little Baby": The Curse of an Earworm

Nowadays, almost every shop in Lijiang Old Town sells African drums, and they all play that song "Little Baby" (Xiao Bao Bei) without exception. My ears were growing calluses. Two weeks after returning from Lijiang, I finally got the song out of my head—then while writing this travelogue, I thought of it, and it started looping in my brain again. No, please, set me free!

The most popular shop is called "Xia Xia's Shop" (Xia Xia De Dian). Every time I passed by, it was packed. But honestly, I think the girl playing the drum there wasn't as pretty as the one I photographed.

Dayan Flower Alley: No Flowers in Bloom, But the Stairs Were Stunning

I made a detour to Dayan Flower Alley because I'd heard it was filled with colorful daisies, perfect for photos. But the shopkeepers said winter was over, and the daisies' peak season had passed—all the flowers had been taken away. Only a few scattered ones remained in front of the shops.

But I still thought it was beautiful! I guess I have no luck with flowers—my succulents die, my water lilies won't bloom, even the flowers I order don't look good...

But the stairs in Flower Alley were absolutely gorgeous. Even elderly couples couldn't resist going up for photos (though the grandpa was dragged up by his wife).

Lion Hill: Altitude Sickness at 2,400 Meters—I'm Getting Old

Coming out of Flower Alley, we climbed toward the top of Lion Hill. There are two spots to see the old town panorama: Wenchang Palace (free) and Wangulou Tower (the highest point, 50 RMB entry fee). Without hesitation, all three of us agreed on Wenchang Palace.

But while climbing the stairs, I got altitude sickness! Every step left me gasping for air, and I even wanted someone to carry me up. Last time in Yunnan, I only got altitude sickness at Shangri-La. This time, at Lijiang's 2,400 meters—I'm definitely getting old. Please keep this embarrassing detail to yourselves, or how will I ever make it to my dream destination, Daocheng Yading?

While the other two went to the restroom, I took a break and unexpectedly stumbled upon cherry blossoms. Since my trip to Japan in 2016, I've serendipitously seen cherry blossoms on every trip for three years straight—it's fate. Call me the Cherry Blossom Messenger.

Guesthouses on Lion Hill: Beautiful, But...

While climbing Lion Hill, we passed a guesthouse every few steps, each one looking like a peaceful haven. Who wouldn't want to spend a day lying in a little rocking chair?

But I still think staying on Lion Hill isn't very convenient: First, if someone like me gets altitude sickness even in Lijiang, climbing back to the guesthouse would be a nightmare. Second, it's all小巷子 (narrow alleys) and stairs—no cars can get in, making check-in and checkout with luggage a painful ordeal. Third, Baidu Maps is absolutely terrible in these alleyways—it kept getting us lost.

Flower Cakes: Jiahua Is the Real Deal

I grabbed a random flower cake (xianhua bing, a traditional Yunnan pastry filled with edible roses), and its color happened to match my nail polish perfectly. This one was from "Yami"—it wasn't as fragrant as Jiahua's, and the crust wasn't as thin. Although cheaper, I still recommend Jiahua. We bought six flavors from Jiahua, and my personal favorite was the buckwheat flavor—it had a healthy kind of aroma. I didn't get to try Pan Xiangji, so I can't compare.

I absolutely love rose cakes—sweet and fragrant. How can so many people not like them?

Wenchang Palace Overlook: The Dream of Running a Guesthouse

Wenchang Palace isn't the highest point, but it's more than enough for a panoramic view of the old town. I looked at that vast expanse of green tiles and thought: if this weren't a high-altitude plateau, if the UV rays weren't so strong, and if they spoke Cantonese here, I'd want to run a guesthouse here and just waste my youth away.

Stop right there! I'm only in my twenties—I can't be thinking about retirement this early. Besides, I don't have the money for it anyway.

Dongba Script: Ancient Imagination Commands Respect

The walls were covered with Dongba characters and patterns, complete with comparison charts. After looking at them, my reaction was: they came up with this? The imagination of ancient people is truly awe-inspiring.

Lijiang's Gentleness: Brick Paths and Beautiful Walls

Although Dayan Ancient Town is often criticized as "crowded even in off-season, packed in peak season," you can still find beautiful guesthouses and quiet alleys just a few steps away. No matter how "infamous" Lijiang becomes, in my heart, it's still the same city that captured my heart six years ago.

This time, we barely shopped—we just kept walking, completely captivated by the brick paths and beautiful walls. You say such beautiful alleys are too commercialized and not worth visiting? Doesn't your conscience hurt?

Evening Lijiang: Free Performances and Bonfire Parties

Next to the big waterwheel in Lijiang Old Town, there are now regular free performances, and bonfires in the evening. Well then, I can skip the bonfire party at Lugu Lake!

Every shop had decorated its entrance beautifully—colorful, creative, each one trying to outdo the other. Even the doors are this artistic—I seriously suspect that all the guesthouse owners in Lijiang have taken classes in aesthetics, design, flower arranging, and gardening.

Cat's Sky City: No Cat Found, But Cute Trinkets

Turns out Lijiang also has a Cat's Sky City (a popular bookstore/cafe chain)—I always thought it was exclusive to Suzhou. I went in looking for cats but couldn't find any. Anyone who actually gets to pet a cat there is lucky. Though I'd prefer a "Dog's Sky City"—hmm, doesn't that name sound a bit off?

Souvenirs: Lijiang's Version of Pandora

There are many bracelet shops in the old town, making beautiful pieces at very cheap prices. I know the materials probably aren't great, but they make great souvenirs—you can't go wrong or lose much money. Despite the guesthouse owner repeatedly warning us "don't buy anything in the old town," we couldn't resist splurging.

Books made from Dongba paper were too expensive. I've outgrown the phase of buying pretty but impractical souvenirs—besides, my home is small and messy enough.

The Old Town at Night: Two Faces

Whenever I saw students in the old town, it felt instantly more down-to-earth. At night, the ancient town transforms from antique elegance to romantic revelry—it's got two faces, this little trickster. I wonder if its reputation as the "City of Romance" (or "City of One-Night Stands") still holds true.

Six years ago, I was impressed by Lijiang's grilled insects. Six years later, I still didn't dare try them. Too terrifying—this Cantonese person admits defeat.

Mu Mansion: The Forbidden City of the North, Mu Mansion of the South

Mu Mansion is the common name for the Mu family chieftain's official residence in Lijiang. Many people only learned about Mu Mansion through the TV drama "The Mu Mansion Storm" (Mu Fu Feng Yun)—that's me.

The Naxi people originally didn't have Han Chinese surnames. When Zhu Yuanzhang established the Ming Dynasty, the Naxi chieftain A Jia A De from far northwest Yunnan "submitted and pledged allegiance." Zhu Yuanzhang removed one stroke and one horizontal line from his own surname and bestowed the surname "Mu" (木, meaning "wood") upon him. From then on, the Naxi tradition of father-son name chains was replaced by Han-style surnames and given names.

The Mu Mansion guide said: "The Forbidden City in the north, Mu Mansion in the south." Since I haven't had the chance to visit the Forbidden City yet, I thought I'd start with Mu Mansion. I hadn't planned to go—I stayed in Lijiang Old Town for three days without entering. But after my cousin left, only my mom and I remained in Shuhe. That afternoon, on a whim, I decided to visit Mu Mansion.

After touring it, I felt it was totally worth it. Mu Mansion is beautiful and massive—it felt like Granny Liu visiting the Grand View Garden.

Tickets and Guided Tours

Mu Mansion tickets can be purchased online for 48 RMB. Buying on-site during off-season costs 60 RMB—for two people, that saves a week's worth of transportation costs. My mom only told me about this after we'd finished visiting—well, since it wasn't her money being wasted, she didn't care. Hmph.

Mu Mansion offers free guided tours every 15 minutes. For someone like me who failed history class, it's essential to follow along.

The Beauty of Mu Mansion: Mini Forbidden City Meets Jiangnan Garden

Although it was rebuilt after an earthquake, it's no less imposing—it has a bit of a mini Forbidden City vibe. The thing Mu Mansion has the most of, and the thing that terrifies me most in Lijiang, is stairs! The difference between a regular lens and a wide-angle lens: wide-angle is just badass. I climbed up with great effort just to take two photos. At high altitudes, elevators are life itself.

Looking out from Mu Mansion, I felt like I was secretly spying on the daily lives of people outside the city walls. I wonder if the chieftain back then also secretly watched the common people's lives? From a higher point, you'd feel a sense of "look at the land I've conquered."

Mu Mansion's gardens are also impressive—the kind that capture your heart at first sight. For a moment, I felt transported to the water towns of Jiangnan—gentle willow branches brushing the water's surface, accented by a few pink cherry blossoms. I couldn't help wondering: did the chieftain's family enjoy such treatment back in the day?

Cherry Blossoms and Wisteria Blooming Together

I never expected to see cherry blossoms and wisteria in full bloom at the same time. In Japan, you'd have to visit at two different seasons to see both. In Lijiang, they appeared before me in their most beautiful form simultaneously. Lijiang is such a magical place—spring-like all year round, capturing every moment of flowers in their glory.

Small Regret: Inconsistent Closing Times

I didn't plan my timing well—arriving too late meant I had to rush through before sunset closing. The official closing time is 5:00 or 5:30 PM, but some buildings' staff start stacking chairs and locking doors half an hour early. There's no unified closing time for the whole complex—it depends entirely on the staff's mood. So, go to Mu Mansion early.

Lashihai Lake: First Horse Riding Experience, Photo Shoot at the Resort

I only have one photo of the horse—because riding is really bumpy! Even though I have steady hands that can take clear photos on Southeast Asian tuk-tuks, I couldn't manage to take photos while riding. First, it's too shaky; second, if I didn't hold on, I was afraid I'd fall off. But riding along the ancient Tea Horse Road, the scenery was beautiful—don't miss it.

Lashihai: One of the "Most Scam" Attractions, But I Have Good Memories

Lashihai is known as one of Lijiang's most notorious tourist traps. I came here six years ago too, and I still have fond memories—it was raining, the mountain path was muddy and steep, but the horse steadily climbed up and down, providing a slow-motion roller coaster thrill. When we reached the top, Lashihai suddenly appeared through the misty rain—it was incredibly romantic.

So on my second visit to Lijiang, I brought my cousin and mom for their first horse riding experience.

The horses were super smelly but super well-behaved—as long as you didn't slap their bottoms, you could pet them all you wanted. The horse: completely resigned to its fate.

Pricing and Options

For Lashihai horse riding + boat rowing, standard routes booked on Taobao cost 80–160 RMB, including horse riding, rowing, and lunch. For a basic experience, that's enough. Higher-priced "resorts" (huì suǒ)—not that kind of resort—offer better rest areas and photo spots, but the so-called afternoon tea is just apples, so don't get your hopes up. We chose "Cloud Beyond Resort" (Yun Duan Bi An Hui Suo) at 298 RMB per person, thinking it was the prettiest. Later I found out that even at the same price, you can haggle. Horse riding also required an additional 5 RMB for gloves—298 RMB and they don't include gloves? Unreasonable!

Resort Photo Spots: No Need to Go to Dali for White Tables

The resort was filled with dense clusters of daisies and succulents, much more colorful than in the old town. I consoled myself: at this expensive ticket price, I'm just paying to see flowers.

They also kept a few peacocks, whose feathers were as vibrant as any zoo's. Finally, I didn't need to go to Dali for a white table—glass spheres were freely available too. All the viral internet-famous photo props were collected in one place.

Kayaking: An Unforgettable Battle with the Wind and Waves

My cousin and I shared a kayak. At first, we drifted with the current, leisurely paddling back when we'd floated too far. But then the wind picked up, and we drifted further and further away. We mustered our strength, chanted a rhythm, and paddled desperately toward the shore—only to run out of steam. When we stopped to rest, we realized we hadn't moved at all! We finally made it back, but it was an unforgettable kayaking adventure. Out on the water, we couldn't even beat this seagull. Embarrassing.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: The 4,680 I've Never Conquered (Twice)

As a delicate girl prone to altitude sickness, on my first visit to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I was only 10 meters of elevation away from the summit. I was too young back then to understand that persistence is victory—I only knew the altitude sickness was killing me, so I plopped down on the boardwalk and gave up.

On my second visit to Lijiang, I silently resolved: I will reach 4,680 meters and take that tourist photo in front of the marker.

Day Tour: Best Value for Money

As a staunch advocate of independent travel, I actually joined a day tour for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Comparing options, the day tour offered great value—including transportation, tickets, lunch, and most importantly, the life-saving oxygen canisters. The price wasn't much higher than going independently, and with independent travel, you'd have to worry about getting ripped off by drivers. My brain capacity is too limited for that hassle.

When booking a tour, make sure to choose a non-shopping group. Check reviews and book a small group online in advance. We booked through "Lazy Cat" (Lan Mao) on Taobao—460 RMB for a non-shopping small group. Other travel agencies and guesthouses quoted 480–500 RMB. Even the guesthouse owner warned us to be careful of scams at that price. But the whole experience was satisfying—pure play, excellent driver service, only 7 people in the group, very relaxed, and the lunch was decent.

The only downside of a day tour is that they don't arrange visits to Yunshanping (Spruce Meadow). If you want to go there separately, you'll need to arrange it yourself.

Too Much Snow, Boardwalk Closed

Looking at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from a distance, my cousin worried the snow might melt. The driver worried the snow might be too heavy and cause the cable car to close. The cable car didn't close, but the boardwalk was too slippery from all the snow—so it was closed! I still couldn't reach 4,680.

What kind of twisted fate is this? Failed twice. I'm convinced this is my destiny with Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. And this time, I didn't even get altitude sickness when I arrived—well, I'm not trying again.

Snow Views at 4,500 Meters

Failed summit attempt number two. I could only stand on the observation deck at 4,500 meters and stare. But maybe it's for the best—at least I don't have to lose face by not making it. Last time I came was the summer after my college entrance exam, and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain had no snow. This time, I finally got to see the snow-capped mountain in its true form—I was actually pretty happy inside.

According to local drivers, the snow on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain used to be much thicker, but due to climate change, the snow decreases every year. One year, there was no snow at all. They're also worried—wondering how long it will be before Jade Dragon Snow Mountain has no snow left.

As a Cantonese person seeing real snow for the first time, I excitedly grabbed a handful and posed for a photo.

Blue Moon Valley: A Blue Moon on White Limestone

The Blue Moon Valley (Lan Yue Gu) scenic area was formerly known as "White Water River" (Bai Shui He). The water originates from the melting snow and ice of the glacier, flowing down cliffs and gathering into mountain streams and rivers. Because the riverbed is made of white limestone, the entire river appears white—hence the name "White Water River." It's called "Blue Moon Valley" because on sunny days, the water turns blue, and the valley is crescent-shaped, looking from afar like a blue moon embedded at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Lugu Lake: That Moonlight Finally Came Full Circle

(Note: The original article didn't fully expand on the Lugu Lake section, but as the core destination, here are some key details.)

From Lijiang, it's a four-plus-hour drive with winding mountain roads. But when you catch your first glimpse of Lugu Lake, it's all worth it—it's a beauty that takes your breath away. The water is so blue it doesn't look real. In the distance, Goddess Gemu Mountain quietly guards this pristine land.

Lake Circuit Tour: Every Spot Is a Scene

Hiring a private car for the lake circuit is the most recommended option. Lige Observation Deck, Goddess Gemu Mountain, Xiaoluoshui Village, Dazu Village, the Worship Altar, Goddess Bay (for sunset), and the Grass Sea—every stop is worth taking your time.

The sunset at Goddess Bay is so beautiful it makes you want to cry. And the Grass Sea, though pitch black at night, left a deep impression with its silence.

Accommodation Recommendation: Miyue Inn Xiaoyuba

The Miyue Inn in Daluoshui had a great location and comfortable rooms. The next morning, we spent time taking pretentious photos at the inn—the results were perfect.

Shuhe Ancient Town: The Quiet Side

Returning from Lugu Lake to Lijiang, we stayed in Shuhe Ancient Town. Compared to Dayan's liveliness, Shuhe is quieter and more laid-back. We wandered around for a day, and in the evening, on a whim, we went back to Dayan to see Mu Mansion.

Baisha Ancient Town and the Sanduo Festival

On the last day, we visited Baisha Ancient Town, which happened to coincide with the Sanduo Festival ceremony. This is a traditional Naxi festival, featuring many authentic folk performances—well worth a visit.

Tips and Practical Information

Accommodation Suggestions

• Dayan Ancient Town: Lively and convenient, but can be noisy at night. Guesthouses on Lion Hill have great views, but the stairs are exhausting, and dragging luggage is inconvenient.
• Shuhe Ancient Town: Quiet and relaxing, perfect for those who prefer a slower pace.
• Lugu Lake: Both Lige and Daluoshui are good options. Stay at least one night to experience the lake at dawn and dusk.

Food Recommendations

• Flower Cakes (Xianhua Bing): Recommend Jiahua, especially the buckwheat flavor. Didn't get to try Pan Xiangji, so no comparison.
• 88 Snack Shop (88 Hao Xiao Chi Dian): The stuffed tofu (baojiang doufu) is delicious. The stone-grilled tofu (shiping doufu) is a bit too firm.
• Lijiang Grilled Insects: Memorable from six years ago, still didn't dare try them this time—this Cantonese person admits defeat.

Money-Saving Tips

• Flights: Compare prices across platforms, watch for discounts early.
• Mu Mansion Tickets: 48 RMB online, 60 RMB at the gate.
• Lashihai Horse Riding: You can haggle. Bring your own gloves.
• Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: Buy oxygen canisters in the old town in advance—they cost 60 RMB on the mountain.

Important Notes

• Altitude Sickness: Lijiang is at 2,400 meters—some people still get altitude sickness. Prepare oxygen canisters, walk slowly, and avoid strenuous activity.
• Sun Protection: Yunnan's UV rays are intense. Wear sunscreen without fail.
• Navigation: Baidu Maps is unreliable in the old town's alleyways—expect to get lost.

Epilogue: Time Passes, But It's Still That Moonlight in My Heart

From 18 to 24, from group tours to independent travel, from going alone to bringing my family—Lijiang and Lugu Lake witnessed my growth, and I witnessed their changes.

Lijiang is still Lijiang—commercialized, safety issues and all. In my heart, it's still the gentle girl who captured my heart at first sight six years ago. And Lugu Lake, like that moonlight, has finally come full circle in my heart.

The places worth going to have no shortcuts. But when you finally set foot on that land, you'll find that all the hardship was worth it.

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If you also want to visit Lijiang and Lugu Lake, feel free to leave a comment. For more travel stories, follow my WeChat account: PinkTime, TikTok: Pt Cravings Durian, Xiaohongshu: pink_pt.