Lugu Lake Cycling Tour: When I Have Money, I'll Come Back to Marry You!

If not now, when? If not me, who?

Some places captivate you just by hearing about them. Lugu Lake is exactly that kind of place—the Kingdom of Women, the Mosuo people, walking marriages, picturesque landscapes... These keywords weave together like threads into an irresistible call. So I packed my bags, brought my cheongsam and long dresses, and embarked on this spontaneous journey.

Before Departure

Destination & Timing

• Location: Lugu Lake
• Time: May 1, 2012, 3 days total
• People: Solo traveler
• Cost: Approximately 1,000 RMB
• Transport: Bus + bicycle

Preparation

Before leaving, I made detailed route plans and booked accommodation in advance to avoid last-minute chaos. Having the route map in hand gave me a lot of peace of mind.

How the Story Begins...

I'd heard that Lugu Lake was home to a Kingdom of Women, where the scenery was dreamlike and visitors never wanted to leave. I'd heard the Mosuo people were gifted singers and dancers, where men never married and women never wed, spending their entire lives in "walking marriages." These legends planted seeds in my heart that eventually sprouted. Finally, I boarded the bus from Kunming to Ninglang and began this journey.

Transport Tips: - Kunming West Bus Station allows online booking 5 days in advance, tickets cost 190-200 RMB, pick up tickets 1 hour before departure on the day of travel - After arriving in Ninglang, transfer to a minivan to Lugu Lake, 30 RMB per person - Full-price scenic area ticket: 100 RMB, student ticket: 50 RMB (don't try to sneak in during peak season; off-peak, you might try asking locals to take you in)

DAY 1: Lige to Luowa, First Cycling Experience

Lige Village: Tenderness in an Ink Painting

Lige Village is small. Compared to the hustle and bustle of Lijiang, it's quiet like another world. Lakeside guesthouses line up along the shore—you can pick one you like and stay overnight. Try the local specialty—Mosuo sausage (摩梭香肠), it's truly worth recommending.

On a rainy day, Lugu Lake looks like an ink painting, with bold brushstrokes and splashes of ink. The rain gave Lige a touch of melancholic charm. Drip, drop—raindrops fell on my fingertips and also in my heart.

Leaving Lige Village, there's a steep, long uphill section with twists and turns. Impossible to ride—you have to push the bike. I was panting, completely exhausted, and even wondered if I was suffering from altitude sickness. After finally making it to the village entrance, I could actually start riding!

Nisai: A Paradise for Postcard Lovers

The road from Lige to Nisai is the most beautiful stretch of the entire lake loop. Even if you're a photography novice with a basic point-and-shoot, every shot looks like a masterpiece—this is what they call "a great foundation."

From Nisai Village, you can take a cable car up Goddess Mountain for a panoramic view of Lugu Lake. At the top, there's a Goddess Cave (女神洞)—they say if you pray there, you'll have twins. But since I could enjoy lake views from different angles throughout my ride, I didn't bother.

Postcard lovers, take note: There are two places to buy postcards at Lugu Lake—a small shop in Nisai Village (with a big bear out front, easy to spot) and the Lugu Lake Town post office. The shop's homemade scenic cards cost 3 RMB each, and there are three commemorative stamps—make sure to get the prettiest one! Whether you buy postcards or not, you can stamp for free, unlimited times.

Xiaoluoshui: Push Uphill, Fly Downhill

Stopping and going, I discovered the classic rule of lake-loop cycling: push uphill, fly downhill! When hungry, I'd stand by the roadside eating cold rice noodles (凉粉)—the taste was absolutely incredible, super addictive!

Dazui: A Little Interlude

Passing through a small village, I saw a little girl crying for her mother. I got off my bike and gave her some food. She stopped crying—I thought, what a good kid. But just as I rode 10 meters away, I heard her piercing cry again: "Mommy... sob sob..." Well, kids still need their real moms.

Goddess Bay: Disappointment After a Bumpy Ride

From Muku to Goddess Bay, it was first a long uphill, then a long downhill. The paved road turned into dirt, then into gravel. After all that jostling, I finally reached Goddess Bay. The sky was already dark, and under the overcast sky, the scenery was mediocre. They say the sunset here is stunning—unfortunately, I missed it.

From Goddess Bay to Luowa, there's a small path made entirely of dirt—you have to carry your bike over the hill. I thought, "No problem," and carried my bike up. But halfway up, I found too many forks in the road and couldn't find my way. Comparing my map, I couldn't tell east from west or north from south, so I had to turn back. The whole way was basically pushing, until I finally emerged from Zhaojiawan and headed straight toward Caohai (Grass Sea).

Lugu Lake Town: Surprise Amid the Bumps

The town's facilities were decent enough, but the roads were incredibly bumpy—like a vibrating weight-loss machine. My bag broke, and my camera and tablet crashed to the ground. The tablet screen shattered, but it still worked. I packed everything up and continued on.

Caohai and Luowa: Finally Arrived

Caohai is an endless stretch of golden reeds. Since I'd be coming back the next day, I didn't linger and headed straight for Luowa.

At 7:30 PM, I finally reached my accommodation—Luowa Zhaxi Homeland (洛洼扎西家园). The guesthouse here is very eco-friendly—no toiletries provided, you have to buy your own. I booked a lake-view king room—I love indulging in luxury when I'm alone! The balcony gets sunlight, and the floor-to-ceiling windows open right onto Lugu Lake. This time, I was so close to it.

After washing off the sweat, I changed into my cheongsam and went looking for food. I wanted to share a meal with other travelers, but I was too hungry, so I ate at a nearby restaurant that looked busy. It turned out expensive and terrible, with painfully slow service—the crowd was just a tour group. But it didn't matter. When traveling, food and lodging can be compromised, as long as the scenery delivers!

DAY 2: Caohai, the Walking Bridge, and Daluoshui

Lugu Lake Town: Post Office Check-In

I wanted to sleep in, but my body clock wouldn't allow it. I woke up around 7 AM, wrote 15 postcards—all filled with words! Then I biked to the Lugu Lake Town post office, the only post office at Lugu Lake. I got beautiful commemorative stamps and bought two sets of Lugu Lake scenic postcards, 25 RMB per set (10 cards each).

Caohai: Joy of Walking on Reeds

Vast stretches of reeds—soft underfoot, making you want to lie down on them. I played there for a long time and even ate some huge freshwater clams (蚌), incredibly fresh and delicious. I bought three to bring back—they're still alive in a water basin, waiting for me to leave Kunming so I can cook and eat them!

You think I'm playing dead? I'm actually sunbathing! My beautiful hat also got its moment in the spotlight.

The Walking Bridge (走婚桥): A Romantic History

The Mosuo people are famous for their walking marriages. The current Walking Bridge is newly built; the old one is already dilapidated. In the past, Mosuo men would run across at night, climb into the women's rooms, then run back across this bridge in the morning. It's quite a distance—walking marriage is apparently also a physical workout!

Along the way, I met a man who sparked my imagination. I don't know if he'd ever left this small village or if he'd ever had his photo taken. I used my Polaroid to take a picture of him, right there on the land where he'd lived his whole life. He smiled so happily.

Daluoshui: The Peace of Nighttime

Around 5 PM, I arrived at Luoshui (落水). This village is larger than the others. I checked into my pre-booked accommodation, the Lakeside Tea House (湖思茶屋), washed off the stink, changed into a long dress, and brought my journal and camera to the restaurant. The sunlight outside the window was beautiful, and I loved the interior decor—everything felt so comfortable.

In the evening, I strolled along the lakeshore. My heart felt so calm. In that moment, it was as if all my worries had disappeared—just me and Lugu Lake, quietly listening to each other's stories.

Accommodation Reminder: The Lakeside Tea House offers dorm beds for 30-35 RMB per night, very clean and comfortable. I booked a courtyard king room (88 RMB, no lake view), but I came back late and the door was locked, so I had to sleep at another guesthouse. Remember: always return on time!

At 8 PM, I joined the village's bonfire party, 30 RMB per person. I watched the Mosuo people sing and dance, and everyone interacted together—it was just okay. But there was one guy I thought was the most handsome, so I pulled him over for a photo without hesitation. He used to work in real estate in Chongqing but returned home this year to sell tourist souvenirs. Many people here work outside the area before coming back to develop their hometown.

Lying in a Mosuo pig trough boat (猪槽船) on Lugu Lake, gazing up at the stars—this night sky was so beautiful. I just lay there, listening to the stars tell me stories. If only a handsome guy had appeared right then—how romantic that would have been!

DAY 3: Sunrise and Farewell

At a little past 6 AM, I arrived at the Luoshui dock. Many people were already waiting to watch the sunrise. Lugu Lake's morning was so cold. I waited and waited, until finally the sun rose from behind the mountains. Everyone got excited—DSLRs and tripods came out in full force. Unfortunately, my camera was locked in the guesthouse, so I missed capturing that moment. But the beauty of that instant will be forever etched in my memory.

At 8 AM, I set off, heading straight for Lige. I arrived in under 2 hours, much faster than expected. I ate at the Moshang Huakai Youth Hostel (陌上花开青旅). While resting, I saw a sweet young couple and took out my Polaroid to snap a photo for them—everyone was happy.

Around 11 AM, I cycled around Lige, went to the highest point of Lige Peninsula, and took in the view from above. I also got to know the chef at Moshang Huakai, who accompanied me for some photos. His dog "Dingxiang" (丁香) casually followed us—licking the lake water, peeing under a tree, and occasionally photobombing my shots with its rear end. I still loved it dearly.

At 2 PM, the driver came to pick me up. At 6 PM, I boarded the bus from Ninglang to Kunming. Arriving in Kunming at a little past 5 AM, I went to KFC for breakfast, freshened up, and headed to work.

Ideals and reality are always so far apart. Suddenly waking from my dream—could I just keep sleeping forever? When I have money, I'll break up with my company, come find you, open a guesthouse here, and spend the rest of my life with you!

The ride home was bumpy, but my heart was full of joy.

Final Thoughts

In June 2012, I went back to Lugu Lake with my boyfriend. By then, the little white flowers in the lake had bloomed—absolutely gorgeous. The weather was bad, with continuous rain, so we canceled our lake-loop plan. But Lugu Lake in the rain had its own unique charm. She was still so beautiful, so beautiful.

Looking back at photos from those years, I'm filled with emotion. I long to see that sky again, that lake again...

Practical Tips Summary

1. Transport: Kunming to Ninglang bus 190-200 RMB; Ninglang to Lugu Lake minivan 30 RMB per person
2. Tickets: Full price 100 RMB, student ticket 50 RMB
3. Bicycle Rental: Lige Village 25 RMB per day, the owner is very nice
4. Postcards: Nisai Village shop and Lugu Lake Town post office—don't forget the commemorative stamps
5. Accommodation: Book in advance; check whether the guesthouse provides toiletries
6. Food: Mosuo sausage (摩梭香肠), roadside cold rice noodles (凉粉), fish and buckwheat pancakes (荞麦饼子) near the Walking Bridge
7. Things to Note: Lake-loop cycling is physically demanding—many uphill sections require pushing; protect the environment and take your trash with you

This article is adapted from @Jessica's Travel Stories. Thank you for sharing and letting us experience the Lugu Lake journey of a free-spirited woman.