May Someone Accompany You Through Life’s Ups and Downs, May Someone Watch the Mountains and Lakes with You – Revisiting Dali After Six Years, the Serene Beauty After Erhai Lake’s Restoration

Six years ago, when I first set foot on Dali’s soil, I was instantly captivated by this land embraced by the Cangshan Mountains and nourished by Erhai Lake. Back then, I was a young traveler full of curiosity, and I felt that Dali’s beauty was the kind that made you want to stop and stay. Six years later, I returned with my family, only to find that Dali had changed—not for the worse, but quieter, purer, and more like a place where you could truly settle your soul.

This journey, I set out with the hope that “may someone accompany you through life’s ups and downs, may someone watch the mountains and lakes with you,” and Dali gave me an unexpected answer.

About Dali: A Transformation from Bustle to Tranquility

When I first visited Dali in 2012, it still retained much of its original Bai ethnic charm. The hoofbeats of horses along the Ancient Tea Horse Road, the agility of cormorant fishing performances, and the leisurely boat rides on the lake all left a lasting impression on me. Back then, Shuanglang was still an undeveloped fishing village; Xizhou still had its indigo dye vats and old courtyards where people sipped tea. Dali, to me, was a place where you could empty your mind, daydream, and soak in nature and local culture.

Six years later, I found Dali had “changed.” The restoration of Erhai Lake led to the closure of many guesthouses and restaurants along the shore. Shops in Shuanglang were almost entirely shut down, and Xizhou’s commercial street was also undergoing reorganization. Many might feel regret, but in my eyes, this change has instead restored Dali’s original tranquility. Without the noisy music and crowded throngs, all that remains by Erhai Lake is the sound of wind, birdsong, and the gentle murmur of water. This stillness is not emptiness but a peaceful serenity that calms the heart.

Itinerary Overview: Four Days, Slow Down, and Feel Dali

For this trip, we flew from Guangzhou to Dali via a transfer in Kunming, spending a total of six days. Two days were spent on travel, leaving four days for actual sightseeing. If you want to replicate this route, I recommend flying directly to Dali to avoid the hassle of transfers.

Accommodation Recommendations: Two Hotels Worth Staying At

First: Mermaid Hotel (Haidong Area)
This hotel is located in a villa district, where celebrities like Faye Wong and Sa Dingding are said to own properties. The environment is top-notch, quiet and comfortable, with attentive service and free pick-up and drop-off. The only downside is its inconvenient location—you need to drive seven or eight kilometers to eat out, and it might be hard to get a taxi late at night. But if you’re looking for a completely relaxing vacation, this is the best choice.

Second: Houhai Puyu (Xiamonan Village)
This hotel is right next to Erhai Lake, with a stunning public area where many couples take wedding photos. Staying here makes you feel like time has slowed down—listening to the birds, enjoying the quiet moments, as if the whole world has shrunk to just you and Erhai Lake.

Day 1: Lakeside Road Trip and Photo Shoot, Discovering Another Side of Dali

On the first day, we opted for a JEEP tour around the lake combined with a photo shoot, renting two jeeps. This format is great for family trips—you can enjoy the scenery and take beautiful photos at the same time.

Haidong Highway: A Perfect Photo Spot

Driving along the Haidong highway, the roadside is an ideal spot for photos. With the Cangshan Mountains, Erhai Lake, blue sky, and white clouds, every shot looks like a professional masterpiece. We took many photos here, and each one was a keeper.

Shuanglang Viewing Platform: A Distant Gaze Is Also Beautiful

Due to the Erhai Lake restoration, all shops in Shuanglang have closed, so we could only take a distant look from the viewing platform. Although we couldn’t go deep, standing high and overlooking Shuanglang made me appreciate its tranquility and purity even more.

Rose Garden: Regret Is Also a Kind of Beauty

When we visited, the roses had already been picked and dried for sale, so we couldn’t see them in full bloom. Still, this reminded me that travel always comes with regrets, and regret itself is a form of beauty.

Xizhou Village: The Biggest Change, and the Most Disappointing

Six years ago, Xizhou had old courtyards for tea, indigo dye vats, and leisurely locals. Now, Xizhou has turned into a commercial street, no different from Dali’s old town. The authentic Bai ethnic charm is hard to find. The only highlights were Xizhou’s ancient city gate and the passing horse-drawn carriages, which still bore traces of the Ancient Tea Horse Road.

Dali Old Town: The Nighttime Town, Like Lijiang Six Years Ago

In the evening, we strolled through Dali Old Town. Six years later, it was as lively as Lijiang Old Town six years ago—crowds of people, bright lights, and bustling energy. Though it lacked some of its ancient flavor, the town’s gates were still beautiful.

Day 2: Slow Down and Feel the Gentleness of Erhai Lake

Day one was a bit tiring, so we decided to take it easy on the second day.

The Seaside Opposite the Hotel: A Wedding Photo Paradise

After breakfast at the hotel, we noticed many people taking wedding photos by the seaside opposite. White houses, blue Erhai Lake, green grass—it all formed a perfect picture. We took a walk there too, soaking in the romance.

Jinsuo Island: A Perfect Blend of Food and Bai Culture

At noon, we went to Jinsuo Island and found a restaurant called “Rainbow Fisherman’s Joy.” This was the best meal I had during my days in Dali, hands down! The dishes were simple but the ingredients were incredibly fresh, even the water had a sweet taste. We ate under the shade of a tree in a traditional three-sided courtyard, and the feeling was truly special.

After eating, we strolled along Jinsuo Island’s coast. Although the island’s shops were closed due to the off-season and Erhai Lake restoration, the Bai-style alleyways were perfect for photo ops.

Back at the Hotel: A Surprise for May 20th

That day was May 20th, and the hotel thoughtfully decorated the room with rose petals, arranging them on the bed to spell out “520.” Walking in, I was touched by their thoughtfulness.

Day 3: Cormorant Fishing Performance, Reliving Past Memories

On the third day, we moved to Houhai Puyu Hotel. As soon as we arrived, we started taking photos.

Cormorant Fishing Performance: Changed, but Still Worth It

Six years ago, I was deeply impressed by Dali’s cormorant fishing performances. This time, I found that the show had also been shut down. However, I still found a place where we could watch cormorants fish. The birds caught fish quickly, were very intelligent, and obeyed their master’s commands. Sitting in a small boat on Erhai Lake, I still loved the experience.

Baby Cormorants: A Lovely Surprise

We also saw baby cormorants, which were incredibly cute. We took the fish they caught to a restaurant in Xizhou to have them cooked. Although we missed the part where we grilled fish on a deserted island, it was still satisfying.

Day 4: Cangshan Mountain, Filling a Six-Year Gap

The first time I came to Dali, I didn’t visit Cangshan Mountain. This time, I finally made up for it.

Gantong Cable Car: Views from the Mountainside

We took the Gantong cable car up to the mountainside and visited a few scenic spots. Although we didn’t reach the summit, the views from halfway up were already stunning.

Squirrels: An Unexpected Delight

On Cangshan Mountain, I saw squirrels for the first time and found them incredibly charming. I had never seen such little creatures while hiking before.

“Shangguang Flowers, Xiaguan Wind, Cangshan Snow, Erhai Moon”: A Final Memento

Finally, we visited the spot known for “Shangguang flowers, Xiaguan wind, Cangshan snow, and Erhai moon.” Word has it that the entire area is set to be demolished. We quickly took photos as a keepsake, a kind of farewell.

Conclusion: Dali Is Worth Visiting Again and Again

Although many places were under renovation during this trip, I wasn’t disappointed. We did everything we wanted to do and experienced everything we wanted to experience.

Recommended Experiences

• Cormorant Fishing Performance: If you’re not joining a JEEP photo tour, head to Haishe Ecological Park—the scenery there should be beautiful.
• Food on Jinsuo Island: Be sure to visit “Rainbow Fisherman’s Joy.” Before you go, call the owner via Dianping (a Chinese review app), and someone will pick you up when you arrive on the island.

About the Changes

• Xizhou has started renovation and reorganization; it’s unclear when it will reopen for visits.
• All shops in Shuanglang are closed, but the viewing platform is still worth a visit.
• Most lakeside guesthouses have closed, which has made Erhai Lake even more tranquil.

Final Words

Dali is a place worth visiting again and again. Six years ago, I found a sense of emptiness here; six years later, I found the power of tranquility. May someone accompany you through life’s ups and downs, may someone watch the mountains and lakes with you—this phrase is for everyone still on the road.

This travelogue is originally written by Chili. Any reproduction must contact the author for permission.