Mountains and Seas in Dreams, Snowy Peaks Engraved with Emotion – A Reunion Across Two Decades in Western Yunnan

Foreword: Time is a Premeditated Encounter

Twenty years ago, I was still that restless teenager, buzzing with youthful hormones and shouting about heading to the "city of romance" in search of fun. Back then, my friends and I treated Dali and Lijiang as an escape from reality, a wild carnival. We thought happiness was loud bars, strangers' smiles, and the never-ending party of youth in the ancient town's night.

Twenty years later, as I stepped onto the bluestone paths of Xizhou again, everything had changed. The stones were polished smoother by time, the bronze on the old mansion's door rings had deepened, and the eaves of the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple still traced the outline of Cangshan Mountain against the dusk. But I knew something had been left behind forever – like the figure of my great-aunt, leaning on her cane as she saw me off at the village entrance, and those youthful days that could never return.

It turns out that time never truly takes anything away. It just hides memories in the moon cradled by Cangshan Mountain, in the melting snow of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and in every corner where you suddenly run into your former self. This time, I was no longer that boy chasing after excitement, but someone carrying a gentle gaze toward the past, meeting Dali and Lijiang once more.

Dali Chapter: The World of Everyday Life Amid Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight

Getting Around: A Battle with Traffic

To be honest, Dali's traffic situation is a love-hate affair. You love the scenery along the way, but you hate the soul-crushing congestion. If you're planning to circle Erhai Lake, mentally prepare yourself: the traffic management here really can't keep up with the beauty of the sights. Traffic jams are the norm, taxis are expensive and hard to find.

Complete Guide to Transportation:

• Private Car Rental (Most convenient, but most expensive): During peak season, a 5-seat car costs around 500 RMB for 9 hours, and a 7-seat car costs around 600 RMB for 9 hours. Overtime is charged at 80 RMB per hour. Key point – make sure to tell the driver to take the expressway to bypass the nightmare stretch near Shuanglang. Have the driver cover the toll, or you'll be stuck in traffic on the lakeside road until you lose your mind. The section from the north entrance of Shuanglang to the old town is essentially a parking lot from 10 AM to 9 PM.

• Ride-Hailing Apps (Flexible, but expensive): The loop around Erhai Lake is 130 kilometers, and attractions are far apart. A one-way trip from Dali Old Town to Shuanglang costs around 150 RMB. During peak hours, waiting times can be so long you'll want to abandon your car and walk.

• Erhai Lake Loop Bus (Best value): 98 RMB per person, unlimited rides to 12 stops within 3 days. Sounds great, but the buses are infrequent. I stayed in Shuanglang for three days and only saw one bus pass by – it was nearly empty, like a ghost bus.

• Renting a Car (Freedom, but hassle): On Ctrip, 200-300 RMB per day, fuel and insurance extra. The eastern lakeside road is a two-lane, one-way road. Park on the roadside or in lots, and watch out for scratches. Note: The western lakeside eco-corridor is off-limits to private cars – you'll have to park outside and walk in.

• Renting an E-Scooter (Great for short trips): Ideal for distances under 70 kilometers, like hopping between Wenbi Village, Shuanglang, and Xizhou. I strongly recommend renting a three-wheeled scooter with a canopy (around 120 RMB per day), or Dali's UV rays will turn you into a "little darkie" in no time.

• Cycling (For the romantic at heart): Cycling the Erhai Lake eco-corridor is the best way to get close to the lake. Many rental shops are listed on Dianping, about 80 RMB per day. Look for shops that allow you to return the bike at a different location. Caicun and Longkan Pier also have official rental bikes with QR codes.

• Public Bus (Cheapest, but slowest): The special bus to Chongsheng Temple and the Three Pagodas costs 2 RMB and goes directly there. The eastern loop bus runs to Haidong Town. The advantage is saving money; the downside is limited stops and a snail's pace.

Where to Stay: From Lake-View Rooms to the Bustle of the Old Town

Dali boasts about 30,000 guesthouses. Choosing the right area is more important than choosing the right hotel.

• Shuanglang Ancient Town: The most stunning views of Erhai Lake, with a concentration of high-end guesthouses. But prices are high, and transportation is inconvenient. When booking a lake-view room, make sure to ask if it's a genuine "waterfront room" – a room with a view across a street just doesn't have the same atmosphere. Recommendations: Jinxiangyuan Yinyu, Shuiyuntian Lake View Inn.

• Dali Old Town: Well-developed facilities, convenient for food, drink, and entertainment, but noisy. I recommend staying near one of the four gates for easy access. Recommendation: Dongshengxia·Re Blooming Fusion Aesthetics Guesthouse, near the south gate and close to the Erhai Lake loop bus stop.

• Eastern Lakeside (Haidong): The area around Ideal State, Wenbi Village, and Wase is cheaper than Shuanglang, but has fewer attractions, mainly Instagram-worthy cafes. Suitable for those who want to save money but still see the lake.

• Western Lakeside (Haixi): Longkan Pier, Caicun, and Xizhou Ancient Town. For sunrise views, stay in Caicun or Longkan Pier, but dining options are limited. A compromise is Shangjiyi Village. Recommendations: Ouer Yizuo & Yisu Garden Lake View Hotel (Longkan Pier branch), Xilin Yuan·Baocheng Fuyuan (Xizhou Ancient Town).

A Taste of Dali: The Flavor Map of Dali

Dali's cuisine is a taste adventure from street stalls to back alleys.

Must-Eat in Dali Old Town: - Yunhe Yi Seaview Garden Restaurant: Great for families, with lawns, sunflowers, and carriage-themed private rooms – romantically over-the-top. - Taohong Xiaoguan: A late-night paradise, perfect for a tipsy evening breeze. - Mr. Duan·Premium Yunnan Cuisine: The "Eight Dragons" bamboo tube fish is served with hot oil poured over it at the table – a double assault on the eyes and taste buds. - Shuxia Xiaoguan·Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles: 12 ingredients, chicken broth simmered for 8 hours – so fresh it'll blow your mind. - Yuanzhi Yuanwei·Wild Mushroom Hot Pot: Fresh matsutake mushrooms sliced and cooked at the table during the rainy season – an explosion of earthy flavor. - Zaihuishou Cold Chicken Rice Noodles: The same dish Liu Yifei had, at the first shop on Renmin Road. - Pingdeng Road Grilled Fish: Live fish, freshly prepared, at a budget-friendly local spot.

Must-Eat in Shuanglang: - Wanguli Food House: A Bai-style courtyard serving home-style dishes, with an excellent atmosphere. - Gawai Bistro: Chicken oil and termite mushroom rice – rumored to be frequented by Faye Wong. - Niubenben Seafood Stone Grill: A small place where the owner is a bit cocky, but the food is good.

Must-Eat in Xizhou: - Cuilu Ye Bai-Style Courtyard Private Kitchen: A century-old courtyard with Bai ethnic song and dance performances – a must for atmosphere lovers. - Pescatore Pastoral Coffee: Lava chocolate cake with a rice paddy view – a perfect match. - Amaying Pea Jelly, Xizhou Flatbread, Wheat Field Coffee.

What to Do: Poetry Amid Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake

Dali's attractions are basically centered around Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake.

Eastern Lakeside (South to North): Erhai Park, Jinsuo Island, Ideal State (a man-made Santorini; extra charges for photos), Wenbi Village (recommend the hilltop garden), Xiaoputuo, Wase, Luwo Mountain, Shuanglang Ancient Town (sunset is breathtakingly beautiful).

Western Lakeside (South to North): Dali Prefecture Museum, Xingsheng Bridge, Fengyang Yi (the courtyard from "Meet Yourself," the Liu Yifei drama; book 3 days in advance on Meituan), Longkan Pier (perfect for sunrise), Panxi Village's Instagram-famous S-bend, Xizhou Ancient Town (Yan Family Mansion and the wheat fields), Zhoucheng (tie-dye experience), Butterfly Spring.

Cangshan Mountain: Chongsheng Temple and the Three Pagodas (a must-visit), Jizhao Nunnery (recommended for hiking), Ximatan Cable Car. Dali Old Town is overly commercialized and not very special.

Special Recommendations: - Dali Luge: A gravity-powered go-kart track great for kids. Try to avoid peak crowds. - Portrait Photography: Find a popular studio and ask upfront whether extras like false eyelashes or body paint are included. - Horseback Riding, Mushroom Foraging, and Tea Picking on Cangshan Mountain: Bookable through Dianping – a very immersive experience. - Bars: Hedgehog Jim·LIVE HOUSE, a must-visit according to the charts.

Shopping: Take a Piece of Dali Home

Zhoucheng tie-dye clothing, Heqing silver jewelry, wild mushrooms, flower cakes (freshly baked are best), tamarind candy, dark red roses, preserved plums. Head to the North Gate Market in Dali Old Town for the best prices.

Lijiang Chapter: Soft Times at the Foot of the Snow Mountain

Getting Around: Much More Reliable Than Dali

Lijiang's traffic is much better organized than Dali's – at least you won't be stuck cursing your luck.

Transportation Options: - Renting a Car: 300-500 RMB per day. Convenient for trips to Shuhe, Baisha, Yuhu Village, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-La, and Lugu Lake. - Private Car Rental: During peak season, booking a private car with a guide through a travel agency for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain increases your chances of getting a cable car ticket. Around 500 RMB per person, including tickets, cable car, lunch, oxygen canisters, and round-trip transport. - Ride-Hailing Apps: Easy to get around Lijiang Old Town. A trip to Baisha Ancient Town (12 km) costs about 40 RMB. - Public Bus: From the old town to Baisha (tourist line), Shuhe (Route 6), Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Route 101), Lashi Lake (Routes 30/31/32), and Tiger Leaping Gorge (special bus at 7 AM).

Where to Stay: The Right Way to Explore the Old Town

Vehicles are not allowed inside the old town, so choose a guesthouse near an entrance or exit. For peace and quiet, head to Shuhe or Baisha.

We chose the Banshan Lishe Designer Hotel near the Lion Hill Observation Deck, 200 meters from the viewpoint, offering a panoramic view of the entire old town. Ride-hailing cars can drop you off near "Jiefenglou," and the guesthouse staff will help carry your luggage – very convenient.

Eating in Lijiang: From Smoked Pork Ribs to Butter Tea

Must-Eat in Lijiang Old Town: - Yunxueli·Mufu Tusi Culture Restaurant: A celebrity favorite, good food, and friendly service. - Apoging Smoked Pork Rib Hot Pot: Featured on CCTV's "Flavor" – a must-try. - Junzailai Restaurant: A long-standing local favorite. Try the old lady's potatoes, stir-fried yak meat, and the Naxi-style smoked pork rib platter. - Zhazha Rice Noodles: At the Lijiang Eye Observation Deck branch, enjoy your meal with a view of the entire old town. - Shanshang De Niu·Yunnan Spicy Beef: The most recommended in the comments section – the oil-fried dry pot beef is tempting. - Suosuo Tai'an Potato Chicken: A must-try in Yunnan, highly recommended by locals. - Xingji Butter Tea, Zangbabao Butter Tea House: Local favorites – you have to try it. - Achang Smoked Pork Ribs: You can't visit Lijiang without trying smoked pork ribs.

Shuhe Ancient Town: - Duoyi Vegetable Garden: A pastoral-view restaurant with an excellent atmosphere. - Tuogang Food: A Yunnan-Tibetan specialty restaurant with authentic flavors. - Lan Lan·Yunnan Bistro: A beautiful place, the only one on my list.

Baisha Ancient Town: - Zijian Shan·Snow Mountain View Coffee: Sip coffee while gazing at the snow mountain. - Yunxueli·Baisha Snow Mountain View Restaurant: Snow mountain views paired with great food. - Master's Noodles: 38 RMB a bowl, with a braised egg and side dishes – generous chunks of beef. - Naxi Pure Stew Pot, Naxi Special Clay Pot: Authentic Naxi flavors. - Yiwatang Coffee: Located at the central square, Sifang Street, with a perfect view of the snow mountain and the old town.

What to Do: A Literary and Slow Life at the Foot of the Snow Mountain

Must-Do Recommendations: - Lijiang Old Town: Beautiful both day and night. The "Encountering Mufu" night tour starts at 8:30 PM and lasts about 50 minutes. - Baisha Ancient Town: More authentic and artsy than Dayan or Shuhe. Must-sees include the Baisha Murals (a national key cultural heritage site) and Baisha Old Street. - Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: You must book the main cable car. Visit Spruce Meadow and Yak Meadow depending on your time and energy. The guide says doing the main cable car and Spruce Meadow in one day is a "devil's itinerary," and doing all three is a "super special forces devil's itinerary." Cable car times are strict – don't be late. - Day Trips: If you have time, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Lugu Lake, and Shangri-La are worth visiting.

Leisure Recommendations: - Tea: Shijian Xiaoyuan Tea Space. - Bars: Xiaobali Bar, Shisan Xiaojiuguan. - Dayan Naxi Ancient Music Concert: Experience a living fossil of music. - "Lijiang Eternal Love" Show: A stunning audio-visual experience.

Shopping: Take the Taste of Lijiang Home

Mushroom soup packets (10-20 RMB per pack), wild mushroom sauce, flower cakes (from Jiahua or Panxiangji), air-dried yak meat. Head to Jinjia Market or Zhongyi Market for the best deals.

Practical Tips: The Right Way to Travel on the Plateau

1. Altitude Acclimatization: The route from Kunming → Dali → Lijiang → Shangri-La gradually increases in altitude. Most people without serious health issues can adapt.

2. Dealing with Altitude Sickness: The main cable car on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain reaches 4,506 meters. Some people may experience mild symptoms – a few puffs of oxygen usually help. If you get a headache or feel chest tightness, descend immediately and seek medical attention. Note: Oxygen canisters cost 10 RMB in the old town but 39 RMB on the mountain. Don't let guides trick you into paying inflated prices.

3. Sun Protection and Rain Gear: The UV rays are intense – wear sunscreen for any outdoor activity. The plateau weather is changeable; rain and wind can come out of nowhere. Carry rain gear, and bring a raincoat when going up the snow mountain.

4. Respect Local Customs: Observe proper etiquette at temples. Respect local traditions in ethnic minority areas.

Sample Itinerary: An Eight-Day, Seven-Night Western Yunnan Trip

Day 1: Beijing → Kunming (Yunnan Military Academy, Yunnan University's East Campus, Kunming Old Street) Day 2: Kunming → Dali (Dali Old Town) Day 3: Dali (Sunrise at Longkan Pier → Chongsheng Temple and the Three Pagodas → Xizhou Ancient Town / Cangshan Mountain) Day 4: Dali (Wenbi Village → Shuanglang Ancient Town) Day 5: Dali → Lijiang (Dayan Old Town / Baisha Ancient Town) Day 6: Full-day trip to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Day 7: Shangri-La / Shuhe Ancient Town, Black Dragon Pool Day 8: Lijiang → Beijing

Final Thoughts: The Answer After Twenty Years

From the weathered grandeur of Kunming's Military Academy to the century-old scholarly atmosphere of Yunnan University; from the majestic beauty of Dali's Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake to the sacred purity of Lijiang's Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – this journey was less a trip and more a conversation with time.

Twenty years ago, I thought Dali and Lijiang were about romance, partying, and escape. Twenty years later, I understand they are a mirror, reflecting the mountains, rivers, and years within each of us. Every road we've walked, every scene we've seen, every person we've met – they all become part of who we are.

If you're planning a trip to Western Yunnan, remember this: don't rush, don't just check off sights. Sit and daydream by the wheat fields of Xizhou, stare blankly into the sunset at Shuanglang, and watch the snow mountain from a café in Baisha. Let time slow down, and you'll be able to hear the answers hidden in the wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight – answers about yourself.

Mountains and seas enter dreams, snowy peaks engrave emotion. Some reunions are worth waiting twenty years for.