One Person, Discovering the Gentler Side of Lugu Lake

My friends say that ever since I quit my job, the "wild" streak in me has become impossible to hide. Where weekends used to mean sleeping in until noon, now I throw a backpack on and head out the door, wandering alone through different cities and mountain landscapes like a restless migratory bird. They joke that I'm "on the run," but deep down I know—travel, for me, has never been just about admiring magnificent scenery. It's a form of self-exile, a way for the soul to breathe, a means of making peace with life.

During that period, I wanted to find somewhere close, warm, and easy to reach without spending too much time getting there. I opened the map, and my eyes landed on Lugu Lake—that highland pearl known to the Mosuo people as "Mother Lake." No hesitation: I booked my train ticket and a guesthouse. All that was left was to take the first step.

Departure: A Slow Sway from Chengdu to Xichang

On the evening of November 27th, I boarded the K9471 train from Chengdu to Xichang. It was half an hour late, but that didn't matter—after all, the whole point of travel is to stop being in a hurry. The carriage was a mix of local dialects, instant noodle aromas, and children's laughter. I found a window seat and watched the city lights slowly fade, replaced by mountains and the darkness of tunnels.

The next morning at 6:30, we arrived in Xichang. The sky wasn't fully light yet, and a cold wind crept down the collar of my jacket as I stood on the platform. I rubbed my hands together, hopped into a minivan, and headed for the bus station. After buying a ticket to Lugu Lake, I found a small food stall nearby and leisurely ate a steaming bowl of rice noodles. In that moment, I felt that time had suddenly become generous—it was no longer pushing me, but waiting for me.

First Sight of Lugu Lake: Walking into Dazu Village

Around four in the afternoon, the bus dropped me off at Lugu Lake Town. Most people opted for a private car straight to their guesthouses, but I decided to walk. Backpack on, I headed along the road toward Dazu Village, stopping to take photos and enjoy the scenery along the way. It didn't feel tiring at all.

What surprised me most were the children I met on the road—kids heading home from school. A few Mosuo boys and girls, backpacks slung over their shoulders, were laughing and playfully pushing each other as they walked along the roadside. Their laughter was as pure as the water of Lugu Lake, without a trace of impurity. I raised my camera, and instead of hiding, they grinned at me, showing their white teeth. In that moment, I felt like I wasn't a tourist, but a passerby who had accidentally wandered into their daily lives—a bit intrusive, yet gently welcomed.

By the time I reached my guesthouse in Dazu Village, the sky had darkened. There was a swing at the entrance. I put down my bag, sat on it, and gently swayed. A small boat glided across the lake, the setting sun painted the sky orange-red, and the wind carried the scent of water plants. I closed my eyes and felt as if I had become part of the lake itself.

First Day Around the Lake: Hiking and Hitchhiking, Taking It Easy

Day three had a simple plan—circle the lake. Half on foot, half by catching rides.

Starting from Dazu Village, I walked along the lakeshore all the way to the Grass Sea. The sun was intense, making me a bit dizzy, but the scenery along the way made it impossible to stop. When I reached Luyuan Cliff, a private car pulled up beside me. The window rolled down to reveal a couple from Chengdu. They smiled and said, "Hop in, we're heading the same way." I hesitated for a moment, then got in. There were two other budget travelers from Guangdong in the car too. The four of us squeezed into the back seat, sharing stories about our lives. The couple told me they come to Lugu Lake every year, always taking a different route and seeing different sights. It struck me then that the unexpected kindnesses we encounter on the road are far more unforgettable than any scenic spot.

The highlight of the day was the "Walking Marriage Bridge" (Zouhun Qiao). Beneath the bridge stretched the dense Grass Sea. When the wind blew, the reeds swayed like golden waves. I stood on the bridge, gazing at the distant, layered mountains, and felt a profound sense of peace wash over me.

From the bridge, I continued hiking along the Grass Sea. When I reached Luowa Pier, the road ended, and only a mountain path lay ahead. I gritted my teeth and decided to cross the mountain. The trail wasn't long, but the climb was exhausting. An hour and a half later, I finally reached Zhaojia Bay on the other side. Looking down from the mountaintop, the beauty of Zhaojia Bay nearly took my breath away—the lake was as blue as a gem, cradled by the surrounding mountains, so quiet it made you want to cry. I sat on the peak, took out my water bottle, took a sip, and thought: This path was worth every step.

In the evening, I waited for the sunset at Zhaojia Bay. The sky gradually darkened, and the lake's surface shifted from blue to gold, then to deep purple. I didn't think about anything. I just sat there, watching, until the last sliver of light disappeared behind the mountains.

Second Day Around the Lake: Cycling, the Wisdom of Going Counterclockwise

Early on the fourth day, after watching the sunrise over the lake, I rented a bicycle and set off for my second loop around the lake.

After seeing the sunrise at Niubei Mountain (Ox Back Mountain), I've become quite picky about sunrises. But the sunrise at Lugu Lake still made me press the shutter button several times. Morning light spilled across the lake like scattered gold, shimmering brightly, while the distant mountain shadows layered one upon another like a traditional ink-wash painting.

Two suggestions for cycling around the lake: first, go counterclockwise; second, visit during the off-season. Cycling counterclockwise keeps you on the mountain side of the road. Since many sections lack guardrails, cycling clockwise along the lakeside while looking around could easily send you tumbling into the water—and that would be "giving too much." Cycling in the off-season means fewer cars and people, so you can stop anytime to take photos or just zone out without worrying about being honked at.

When I reached Lige, I had lunch by the lake. The sun was warm, and I leaned back in my chair, watching the pig-trough boats (zhucao chuan) drifting on the water, not wanting to do anything at all. Nearby, a lazy dog was lying on the beach sunbathing, legs in the air, belly exposed, looking so content it was almost enviable. I couldn't help but laugh—this dog knew how to enjoy life better than I did.

At Daluoshui Lakeside, the cosmos flowers (gesanghua) were in full bloom—red, pink, and white, gently swaying in the breeze. A boatman sat on his boat, soaking up the sun, a cigarette between his fingers, squinting into the distance. I raised my camera, and he nodded at me, giving his silent permission.

While photographing the Grass Sea, I turned around and unexpectedly spotted a hardworking local woman halfway up the mountainside, carrying a bamboo basket on her back and bending over at work. In that moment, I realized that the beauty of Lugu Lake isn't just in the scenery—it's in these ordinary, authentic moments of life.

Cycling wasn't as tiring as I'd imagined. I set out from Dazu Village at 8:30 in the morning, stopping frequently, and reached Lover's Beach (Qingren Tan) by four in the afternoon. I parked my bike and sat by the lake to wait for the sunset. The wind was strong, making me shiver, but when the clouds on the horizon turned pink and purple, I felt it was all worth it.

The Last Night: A Farewell Under the Stars

On the night before I left, I picked up my camera again and went out to photograph the stars. The night sky over Lugu Lake was as clean as if it had been washed clean. The Milky Way was clearly visible, and the stars were densely scattered across the entire sky. I stood by the lake, looking up for a long, long time. The wind was cold, my hands were trembling, but I couldn't bring myself to leave.

After taking a few shots, I tucked my head down and ran back to the guesthouse. Lying in bed, scrolling through the photos on my phone, I felt an indescribable sense of satisfaction. I was heading back tomorrow, but I knew that this time at Lugu Lake had already taken root in my heart.

The Return: A Complaint About the "Express" Train

On the fifth day, I retraced my steps—bus from Lugu Lake to Xichang, then the T8866 train back to Chengdu. This train was labeled "Express," but it took over ten hours to cover just over 500 kilometers, averaging only 50 kilometers per hour. I sat in my seat, completely baffled—what exactly was "express" about it? But then I thought, those little imperfections during a trip often become the most interesting stories to tell later.

Final Thoughts: The Meaning of Travel Is Finding Your Own Pace

There are many ways to travel—hitchhiking, hiking, driving yourself, or joining a luxury tour group. None is nobler than another, and none is more superficial. The wealthy and privileged have their way of doing things, and budget backpackers have their own joys. What matters is finding a way that suits you and makes you feel at ease.

For me, these five days at Lugu Lake were a perfect escape. No plans, no guidebooks—just a heart ready to go wherever it wanted. I hiked, hitchhiked, cycled, zoned out, and photographed the stars—I did everything I wanted to do. The unexpected scenery and strangers I met along the way became the most precious gifts of this journey.

If you want to go to Lugu Lake alone, remember this: Don't rush. Feel. Bring your camera, bring your curiosity, bring a little bit of courage. Leave the rest to the lake.

Travel Tips: - Transportation: Train from Chengdu to Xichang (K9471), then bus from Xichang to Lugu Lake - Accommodation: Guesthouse in Dazu Village—quiet and close to the lake - Cycling Around the Lake: Go counterclockwise; off-season travel is better - Must-Do Route: Hike from the Grass Sea to Luowa Pier, then cross the mountain to Zhaojia Bay for sunset - Photo Recommendations: Sunset at Lover's Beach, starry skies, the Grass Sea, panoramic view of Zhaojia Bay

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