Passing Through the Clouds and Gentle Breezes — A Summer Escape to Puzhehei & Fuxian Lake with My Mother

Foreword: A Belated Travel Memory

Some journeys feel ordinary in the moment, only later do you realize that those carefree days have quietly taken root in your heart. In late August 2017, I took my mother on a flight to Yunnan, where we spent an unforgettable summer retreat amid the lotus-filled waters of Puzhehei and the vast turquoise expanse of Fuxian Lake. Now, more than three months later, I've finally found the time to sit down and carefully piece together these memories — a gift, in a way, to both my mother and myself.

Escaping the Hustle: Why Puzhehei and Fuxian Lake

Back then, work had thrown one major audit after another at me, leaving me physically and mentally drained. Summer in Chengdu was a sweltering steam bath — stepping outside felt like walking into a sauna. I needed a place where my frayed nerves could finally unwind.

I spent days scrolling through travel sites, weighing options like Lushan, Guilin, Beihai... comparing each candidate over and over. Then a piece of news caught my eye: a high-speed rail line from Kunming to Puzhehei had just opened. At that moment, I made my decision without hesitation — Puzhehei it was, with a side trip to Fuxian Lake.

So, with one weekend and two days of annual leave, I brought my mother along once again and flew toward that land of colorful clouds.

The Legend of Qingqiu — Puzhehei, a Hidden Paradise

Arrival in the Rain

On the morning of August 31st, we boarded a flight from Chengdu to Kunming, touching down at Changshui Airport at 9:15 AM. After a chain of transfers — subway to high-speed rail to bus — we finally arrived at the Puzhehei scenic area around 3 PM.

Puzhehei first gained fame through the first season of Where Are We Going, Dad? Later, the hit drama Eternal Love (Three Lives, Three Worlds, Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms) turned the fictional paradise of "Qingqiu" into a dream destination for countless viewers.

By the time we arrived, the peak blooming season for the lotus flowers had passed. Only a few scattered blossoms remained, lazily floating on the water. Still, the endless green of lotus leaves stretching to the horizon gave us a glimpse of what the midsummer spectacle must have looked like — a scene straight out of the classic poem: "The lotus leaves stretch to the sky in an endless green; the lotus blossoms reflect the sun in a different red."

Puzhehei belongs to the karst landscape region of southeastern Yunnan, with its classic limestone formations. The entire scenic area is free to enter. For accommodation, you can choose between Xianrendong Village (Fairy Cave Village) or Puzhehei Village. We opted for a lakeside farmhouse inn in Xianrendong Village. Since the peak season had passed, the prices were quite reasonable.

Yunnan's weather is notoriously unpredictable — one moment the sun is blazing, the next a downpour arrives. Luckily, we reached our inn quickly, and the owner came out to greet us in the rain. We checked into a second-floor lake-view room. Pushing open the window, we saw the emerald-green lake right before us. Outside, an old man was fishing in the rain — a scene that looked like it had been lifted straight from an ink wash painting.

Dragon Mountain: No Summit, No Puzhehei

The rain stopped after about half an hour, and the sky cleared again. We immediately gathered our things and set off for Qinglongshan (Dragon Mountain) to take in the panoramic view.

The core scenic area of Puzhehei covers 165 square kilometers — you can't see it all in just a day or two. Our plan was to hike Dragon Mountain for the full view and sunset, then visit Qingqiu the next day.

There are four modes of transport within the scenic area: horse-drawn carriages, electric carts, boats, and walking. We chose the most down-to-earth option — the horse carriage. It cost 10 yuan per person to go from Xianrendong Village to Dragon Mountain. One thing to note: carriages from Xianrendong and Puzhehei villages cannot cross between the two; you need to transfer at the parking lot between them.

Sitting in the carriage, I couldn't help feeling a twinge of sympathy for the horses pulling us. Our carriage carried just two people, but I often saw horses hauling six or seven passengers. Add the weight of the carriage itself, and it came close to a ton. I chatted with the driver, a local woman, who told me that during peak season, the horses run nonstop for hours in the heat. Several horses in the village had even died from exhaustion. It was heartbreaking to hear, but there was little we could do — this is how the villagers make a living, and it also makes travel easier for tourists.

Dragon Mountain isn't tall — about 200 meters, and you can reach the summit in half an hour. But this short climb holds the most breathtaking views. When we reached the top, the vista opened up before us: the entire Puzhehei spread out like a living painting. No camera could capture the sheer awe —连绵的喀斯特山峰 (continuous karst peaks) reflected in the emerald lake, with villages scattered like pearls in a landscape scroll.

We snapped photos frantically, reluctant to leave. Many people were waiting for the sunset. I found a rock to sit on and gazed down at that hidden paradise below, letting the summer breeze wash over me. For a moment, I wanted nothing more than for time to stand still.

Missed Sunset, but the Most Beautiful Twilight

Dragon Mountain has trails on both sides, so you don't have to backtrack on the descent. Though we were reluctant to leave, the sky was growing dark and the crowds were thinning. On the way down, a cloud happened to block the setting sun, and we missed the sunset from Dragon Mountain.

But what awaited us at the foot of the mountain was an even greater surprise.

As we descended, the moon had already climbed above the treetops, while the last rays of sunset still painted the lake. The sun, with its final light, gilded the clouds in gold. The lake mirrored the silhouettes of the hills, and a few rows of tour boats rested at the dock — a serene scene of sunset over water. I ran toward the lakeshore, my camera clicking away.

Isn't life just like this? You miss the moon, but you might gain the entire starry sky. There is always a landscape waiting just for you.

Because we lingered over the twilight, by the time we returned to the parking area, the horse carriages had already stopped running. Luckily, the driver had given us her phone number, or we would have had to walk back in the pitch-dark. While waiting for the carriage, we strolled slowly along the road, passing lotus ponds filled with the chorus of frogs. The sound took me back to summer nights from my childhood — the same tranquil moonlight, the same peaceful croaking. But those days are gone forever.

Back at the inn, a group of older women were dancing happily to ethnic music at the entrance. Their lives seemed so simple and joyful.

The night in Puzhehei was quiet. We slept soundly.

Qingqiu: Beautiful in Name, a Bit Disappointing in Reality

The next morning, on our way to Qingqiu, the sun played hide-and-seek — one moment blazing, the next hiding behind clouds and sending down a light drizzle. Ripples spread across the lake, and we didn't get to see the perfect reflections.

The scenery at Qingqiu itself was decent, but after the TV drama shoot, the artificial peach blossoms and lotus leaves had become tattered and worn, which was somewhat disappointing. Still, the sight of cattle grazing leisurely in the fields gave the place a rustic charm. Overall, it's worth a visit, but don't go in with sky-high expectations.

Before leaving Qingqiu, my mother and I rented a tandem bicycle. It took us a while to get the hang of it. The road offered beautiful views that shifted with the weather — sometimes like a misty ink-wash painting, other times like a vibrant watercolor. We even came across a patch of blooming lotuses, glowing especially bright under the sun.

The bridge connecting Xianrendong Village and Puzhehei Village serves as a transportation hub for the area and is also a great spot for photos.

Fuxian Lake — The Most Beautiful Surprise

First Glimpse: The Shock of a Crystal-Clear Lake

That afternoon, we took the high-speed rail from Puzhehei back to Kunming, then a bus from Kunming's South Bus Station to Chengjiang County in Yuxi City, and finally a local bus to the Fuxian Lake scenic area. The whole trip took about two hours.

Fuxian Lake, known since ancient times as "a thousand acres of crystal glass" for its exceptionally clear water, is the largest deep-water freshwater lake in China. The inn we had booked was right by the lakeshore — just cross the road downstairs and you'd be at the water's edge. Opening the window, the lake breeze hit us, refreshingly cool.

After settling in, we asked the innkeeper's wife to cook us a pot of 铜锅土豆饭 (copper-pot potato rice), 青椒炒腊肉 (stir-fried green peppers with cured pork), and some greens. The potato rice was so fragrant that we couldn't stop eating. We even packed the leftovers to take as snacks.

Lakeside Stroll: Pretending We're at the Beach

After dinner, we went for a walk along the lake. The entire shoreline is lined with wetland parks. The cool evening breeze brushed through our hair and dresses, and the sound of lapping waves made it feel like we were on a seaside vacation.

We came across a young couple taking wedding photos with their own dress and camera. Those kinds of photos probably hold more meaning than any studio shoot.

The water in Fuxian Lake is remarkably clear. I've heard that in recent years, tourism development has slightly diminished its pristine quality, but to me, it still looked incredibly clean. I hope the local government will work hard to protect this gift of nature — just a couple of days ago, I saw news that a water quality protection project had been launched. That's good to hear.

As night fell, the moonlit lake appeared even more vast and profound. I sat by the shore, wishing I could stay until dawn.

My mother took a beautifully atmospheric photo of me — a quiet silhouette against the moonlit lake.

Moon Bay Wetland Park: Solitude and Serenity

The more developed part of Fuxian Lake is Lucheng Scenic Area, which has better facilities but also more tourists. We chose not to stay there because we wanted peace and quiet. At night, I gazed at the lights on the opposite shore from our window, looked up at the star-filled sky, and fell asleep to the sound of the waves.

The next morning, we woke up naturally and headed to Moon Bay Wetland Park. This park was built by a hotel; non-guests need to pay a 30 yuan entrance fee, but it can be used as credit at the on-site snack bar.

The park is quiet and serene. Near the lake, there's an artificial beach with palm trees, umbrellas, and lounge chairs — you can easily pretend you're at the seaside. My mother even made a cameo in a photo, smiling like a child.

When we got tired, we sat down at the snack bar, ordered some drinks and snacks, and enjoyed the view while resting. Using the entrance ticket as credit was a nice deal.

Final Moments: Food and Farewell

By the time we left Moon Bay, it was noon, and a light drizzle had started. We had lunch at a roadside restaurant. Fuxian Lake's specialty is 铜锅鱼 (copper-pot fish), but since there were only two of us, we couldn't finish a whole pot, so we had to skip it. Instead, I ordered my favorite 铜锅土豆饭 (copper-pot potato rice) again, along with a plate of 炒牛肝菌 (stir-fried porcini mushrooms) — you can't visit Yunnan without trying the wild mushrooms. The flavor was so rich I almost swallowed my tongue. It was a bit pricey (50 yuan per serving), but I highly recommend it.

With some time left before we had to head back to Kunming, my mother and I took another stroll along the lake. Every snapshot looked like a painting. Some people were pedaling paddle boats on the water, but my mother is afraid of deep water, so we gave it a pass. Several seagulls were flying over the lake, but they were too wary — they flew off before I could get close.

The boardwalk along the lake was lined with aquatic plants planted to purify the water. They served both to protect the lake and beautify the surroundings. Fuxian Lake's lotus root starch is a local specialty, and my mother loves it. We bought two large bags from a shop near the bus station.

By evening, we arrived safely at Changshui International Airport. The departure hall, bathed in the sunset glow, looked like a giant bird spreading its wings for flight.

In the End: The Meaning of Traveling with My Mother

This Yunnan trip lasted only three short days, but my mother and I had a wonderful time. When I was a child, she took me everywhere. Now, I try to take her on at least one trip every year, so her later years can be filled with beauty and joy.

The meaning of travel isn't just about seeing new places — it's about creating memories with the people you love. Those carefree days, those lotus-lit nights, those lakes and mountains — they will always be the warmest corner of our hearts.

Practical Tips: - Puzhehei scenic area is free to enter. Accommodation is recommended in Xianrendong Village or Puzhehei Village. - Kunming to Puzhehei by high-speed rail takes about 1.5 hours, ticket price 75 yuan. - Main transport within the scenic area is horse-drawn carriages, 10 yuan per person. Note that carriages cannot cross between the two villages. - For Fuxian Lake, consider staying outside Lucheng Scenic Area for a quieter experience. - Moon Bay Wetland Park: entrance fee 30 yuan, can be used as credit at the snack bar. - Must-try dishes: 铜锅土豆饭 (copper-pot potato rice), 炒牛肝菌 (stir-fried porcini mushrooms), 铜锅鱼 (copper-pot fish, recommended for larger groups).

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