River Takes Herself to Yunnan! A Half-Month In-Depth Travel Guide: Dali, Shuanglang, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-La

Setting Off Never Needs an Excuse

"The moment a thought dies, a world away feels like next door. The moment a thought arises, the far end of the world feels close at hand."

Inside every one of us lives a dream of traveling the world. We envy those who are already on the road, longing for the day when we too can throw on a backpack and leave without a second thought. But reality always holds us back—endless work, responsibilities we can't let go of, a little courage we seem to lack. Yet when you read someone else's story, that restless heart starts stirring again.

Truth is, the season doesn't matter. Age isn't an issue. As long as you truly long to hit the road, you're ready. Travel, at its core, is a dual pilgrimage of body and soul.

I decided to go to Yunnan because of a late-night radio show that played Xu Wei's song Warmth. The Dali he sang about—wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight—captured my heart completely. So during the winter break of 2014, I avoided the Spring Festival crowds and boarded a train to the colorful clouds of Yunnan in the off-season. Over half a month, I traveled through Kunming, Dali, Shuanglang, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, and Shangri-La. Just me, a train, and an unforgettable journey.

About the Itinerary: A 12-Day Route Plan

• DAY 1: Chengdu → Puxiong → Kunming (spent on the train)
• DAY 2: Kunming day trip (took an overnight sleeper to Dali at night, saving one night's accommodation)
• DAY 3: Dali Old Town + cycling along the lakeside road
• DAY 4: Erhai Lake loop, day one (Dali Old Town → Wase, stayed overnight in Wase)
• DAY 5: Erhai Lake loop, day two (Wase → Shuanglang, stayed overnight in Shuanglang)
• DAY 6: Erhai Lake loop, day three (Shuanglang → Dali Old Town, stayed overnight in the old town)
• DAY 7: Train to Lijiang, evening stroll through Lijiang Old Town
• DAY 8: Tiger Leaping Gorge high trail hike (stayed at Halfway Guesthouse)
• DAY 9: Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge → Shangri-La (watched stars on the grassland)
• DAY 10: Exploring Shangri-La Old Town
• DAY 11: Return to Lijiang, sunbathing
• DAY 12: More sunbathing

Accommodation Recommendations: Solo Traveler Hostel Time

Traveling alone, hostels are the best choice. Not only do they save money, but you also meet like-minded travel companions.

• Kunming: Qingcheng International Youth Hostel (castle-style architecture, lots of foreigners, a bar and pool table on the second floor)
• Dali: Qingkong Hostel (backed by Cangshan Mountain, facing Erhai Lake, amazing rooftop)
• Wase: Hailinju Inn (sea-view rooms, spectacular scenery)
• Shuanglang: Rongyi International Youth Hostel
• Lijiang: Beimen Yuan International Youth Hostel
• Tiger Leaping Gorge: Halfway Guesthouse (a must-stop for hikers, the "Kill You with Pleasure Balcony" lives up to its name)
• Shangri-La: Laoxie Che Ma Dian (American Western-style inn on the grassland, with a fireplace, and yak meat hotpot at night)

The Green Train: The Start of a Slow Journey

I'm a train enthusiast. I deliberately included a green train experience in my itinerary. The 5619 green train in Sichuan is one of only two remaining in the entire province. From Puxiong in Liangshan to Chengdu, the ticket costs just 28 yuan (about $4 USD). No dining car, only hard seats, and it stops every 16 minutes on average. After passing through Mount Emei, the train runs along the Dadu River Gorge—sheer cliffs on one side, roaring river on the other. Inside the carriage, people chat, play cards, and phones blast Phoenix Legend's songs—a world away from the silence of a bullet train cabin.

The movie Buddha Mountain starring Fan Bingbing and Chen Bolin was filmed on this very railway.

Kunming: Spring City's Snow, an Unexpected Surprise

When I arrived in Kunming, it was actually snowing. My luck was absurdly good. I didn't see a single seagull at Green Lake Park—they were all hidden by the snow. Still, the Qingcheng International Youth Hostel was worth staying at. The entrance looks like a castle, and the second-floor bar serves food and has a pool table, creating a great atmosphere. I rested there for a few hours before catching the evening train.

Dali: First Encounter with Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight

Taking an overnight sleeper from Kunming to Dali, I woke up in the morning, opened the window, and saw snow on the peaks of Cangshan Mountain. The sight of the golden sunlight hitting the snowy mountains nearly made me jump out of my skin. Dali Old Town is smaller than Lijiang, but quieter, more lived-in, and much cheaper.

I checked into Qingkong Hostel. From the rooftop, Cangshan Mountain was at my back, and Erhai Lake stretched out before me. Sunbathing, drinking tea, doing nothing at all—it felt like pure happiness.

In the afternoon, I rented a bicycle and cycled along the lakeside road. Dali's wind is famous, but I got lucky—there was hardly any wind those days. The lakeside road runs right along Erhai Lake, offering stunning scenery. For bike rentals, it's best to leave your ID card as a deposit. If you're renting for multiple days, don't leave it, because you'll need it for check-in. I left my student ID plus a bit of cash instead. Regular bikes cost 15 yuan (about $2 USD) per day, while mountain bikes are 20-30 yuan (about $3-4 USD).

Important reminder: Make sure to wear sunscreen! Yunnan's UV rays are no joke. I got careless and was sunburned in a single day—I could only cry about it.

Erhai Lake Loop: A Three-Day, Two-Night Cycling Adventure

I chose to cycle the Erhai Lake loop counterclockwise, but I'd recommend going clockwise instead. Starting from the east side of the lake, the road runs right next to the water, offering the best views.

On the first day, I cycled to Wase. Xiaoputuo is a temple on a small island in the lake, and the boat ride there costs only 5 yuan (less than $1 USD). The area is swarming with seagulls (locals call them lake gulls). Buy a bag of small fish, toss them into the air, and the birds will fight over them—a spectacular sight.

Wase has a market every few days, full of local life. Street food by the lake includes fried fish, fried shrimp, and fried potatoes—tasty enough, but the weather was so dry I didn't dare eat too much.

On the second day, it only took two hours to cycle from Wase to Shuanglang. Along the way, I saw local kids catching fish in the lake, which reminded me of my own childhood days catching fish and crabs by the river. Their lives may be simple materially, but their childhoods are complete.

Shuanglang was a bit disappointing—everywhere was under construction, like a giant building site. Still, the white tables and chairs at Haidi Life are a must-photograph spot, with long lines of people waiting for their turn. Bandao 63 is right next door, with equally nice views.

On the third day, I returned to Dali Old Town, passing by Xizhou Ancient Town. I cycled right past it, though, and didn't go in. Xizhou's Haishe is a tongue-shaped piece of land stretching into the lake, covered with all kinds of unknown birds.

Lijiang: Nighttime Noise and Daytime Laziness

Taking the train from Dali to Lijiang, I explored Dayan Old Town in the evening. The streets were lined with bars and music, so lively it felt overwhelming. I didn't like the rowdy vibe of the old town, so I spent the next few days just sunbathing and doing nothing at all.

Tiger Leaping Gorge: Hiking the High Trail, Challenging Myself

Tiger Leaping Gorge was one of the most important activities of this trip. Most of the hikers were foreigners—this trail is very famous internationally.

From Lijiang to Qiaotou, you can take a shuttle bus or hire a private car. I bought a bus ticket to Qiaotou, departing at 8:30 AM and arriving around 11:00 AM.

The hiking trail is well-marked, with signs and arrows all along the way, so getting lost isn't a concern. The Naxi Family Inn halfway up the trail is a good place to refuel—the owner's tea with mint-infused water is especially refreshing.

Halfway Guesthouse is one of the oldest inns in Tiger Leaping Gorge, with excellent service. Its "Kill You with Pleasure Balcony" offers views of the thirteen peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. At sunset, the sunlight hits the snowy peaks, turning them golden—a beauty so breathtaking it almost hurts.

The next day, I continued hiking. The trail gets narrow, so caution is needed. After descending to TINAS, I took the Sky Ladder down to Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge, a round trip of about three hours. The ladder is built right on the cliff edge—climbing it made me dizzy. But once I reached Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge and sat on a big rock, watching the Jinsha River rush by endlessly, it was all worth it.

Shangri-La: Grassland Stars and Yak Meat Hotpot

From Tiger Leaping Gorge, I took a bus to Shangri-La and stayed at Laoxie Che Ma Dian. This inn sits on the grassland, and the owner drives into town to pick you up. The interior is American Western-style, blended with Chinese wood carvings, and features a fireplace. In the evenings, everyone gathers for yak meat hotpot—delicious and not expensive.

Shangri-La's old town had been largely burned down by the time I visited. I took a look and could only sigh. The largest prayer wheel is still there, requiring at least ten people to turn it.

At night on the grassland, I looked up and saw a sky full of stars. In that moment, all my exhaustion melted away.

Final Thoughts: If You Decide to Set Off, You're Already on the Road

My half-month trip to Yunnan taught me one thing: travel doesn't need many excuses, nor a perfect plan. As long as you want to go, just go.

Dali's wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight; Shuanglang's Erhai Lake views; Lijiang's lazy days; Tiger Leaping Gorge's thrilling adventure; Shangri-La's peaceful starry skies—every leg of the journey was a pilgrimage of body and soul.

Practical Tips: - Sunscreen, a hat, and lip balm are essential—Yunnan's UV rays are intense - Temperature differences are big, so bring both long and short sleeves; quick-dry clothing is best - For the Erhai Lake cycling loop, go clockwise for better views - When hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge, prioritize safety and avoid the rainy season - Staying in hostels saves money and helps you meet interesting travel companions

Finally, I'll leave you with a quote for everyone still hesitating:

"If you decide to set off, you're already on the road."

Originally written by River, documenting a Yunnan trip in February 2014. Feel free to reach out with questions about routes, accommodation, and transportation.