Shaxi: In Slow Time, I Decided to Rent a Small Courtyard and Stay

When "Fast" Becomes the Norm, "Slow" Becomes a Luxury

Have you ever had that moment—standing at a city intersection, watching the endless stream of people and traffic, and suddenly feeling like you can't breathe? That feeling of being chased by time, like invisible hands pushing you forward without ever asking where you want to go.

This summer, I went to Shaxi, Yunnan—a small town so remote even GPS gets lost. Yet it was the first place that made me realize life could actually be lived this way.

Horses and carriages move slowly, letters travel far—here, this isn't some sentimental cliché but an everyday reality. Walking on the cobblestone streets, sunlight filters through the gaps in ancient trees, dogs nap in the middle of the road, cats stretch on the eaves, and even time itself feels thicker, stickier. I thought to myself: it's time to rent a small courtyard and turn my days into poetry.

Shaxi's Shops Are Lazier Than You

If you think shops in tourist towns are all about enthusiastically pulling in customers, Shaxi will surprise you. The shop owners here are probably the most laid-back businesspeople in all of China.

Opening Hours Depend on Mood, "Closed" Is the Norm

In Shaxi, a "closed" sign isn't an occasional accident—it's routine. I stayed for a week and found that many shops didn't open a single day. You might ask: how do they make money? The answer might be: they never really thought about making much money in the first place.

Shi Ye (Stone Also) and Su Pu (Simplicity)—two well-known shops online, located right next to the ancient stage with prime positions. Their stubbornness is world-class: no sign explaining why they're closed, no posted hours. They just don't open. Come if you want, or don't.

Ai Yu Gu Shi (Love and Old Stories) is tucked away in a narrow alley. Liu Yifei visited while filming Meet Yourself. The result? Too many fans. The owner got tired and simply decided to take irregular closures—even during the peak summer season. In any other tourist hotspot, this would be considered business suicide. But in Shaxi, everyone just accepts it as normal.

Cosmic Bread: An Overhyped Ordinary Loaf

Speaking of Shaxi legends, Cosmic Bread tops the list. This shop is closed for most of the year. To prevent people from queuing for bread, the owner moved from town to a village. I thought the bread must be life-changing. I made four special trips before finally getting my hands on it, spending 200 yuan on transportation alone.

The verdict? Totally ordinary! Really ordinary! If you like European-style bread, there are far better options elsewhere. If you don't, there's no need to bother. So please don't make a special trip, don't queue, and give the owner some peace. This ordinary bakery doesn't need to be hyped as an internet sensation.

Chi Cha Qu: The Owner Playing Shuttlecock Outside

Chi Cha Qu (Go Have Tea) is a small dessert shop by the ancient stage. I heard the couple who run it never actually left Shaxi—they just got too tired from the crowds and temporarily didn't want to open. What were they doing instead? Playing shuttlecock in the middle of the road right outside their shop!

I dug out a photo from five years ago and realized I had crossed paths with them before. That night, I didn't go in. Now, during the day, I still can't get in. Maybe this kind of fate is called "better to remember than to meet."

Celebrities Came, But Shaxi Stayed Shaxi

This summer, because Li Xian and Liu Yifei were filming Meet Yourself in Shaxi, this quiet town suddenly became famous. Word has it that when they weren't filming, they'd sneak out to explore local shops. Li Xian posted a set of photos, Liu Yifei shared a vlog, and fans got a glimpse of Shaxi's endless charm.

Interestingly, the shop owners didn't capitalize on this for publicity. It was only after the actors finished filming and left that fans realized their idols had been there. In today's traffic-obsessed era, this kind of understatement is a breath of fresh air.

Li Xian's Photo Spot Guide (Save Yourself 1,280 Yuan)

Before going, I curiously asked how much a professional Shaxi photoshoot in Li Xian's style would cost. The answer shocked me: 1,280 yuan! A total ripoff. But when I got there, I realized you can easily take the same photos yourself. So by reading this travelogue, you've just saved 1,280 yuan!

Easiest Spot to Find and Shoot: Pioneer Bookstore

Walk into the bookstore, grab the same book. Yukio Mishima's works are prominently displayed on the shelf. Buy a coffee in advance, and you've got an identical shot. Word has it the coffee across the street isn't great, so I opted for sunglasses instead of coffee—the photo still turned out well. Crouch down to pick up a book, and you'll get the second matching shot. Walk further into the café opposite the bookstore, go up the rotating poetry tower, and you'll find two more spots.

Easiest Spot for a Chance Encounter: Blue Cushions

Navigate to Damao Inn. There are several blue printed cushions at the entrance—sit down, and you've got the shot. When I posted this photo, many people thought I'd taken a picture with Li Xian. Hilarious.

Hardest Spot to Shoot: Yujin Bridge

This spot is under the willow trees at Yujin Bridge. Because of seasonal changes in color and tree shape, it's tough to replicate exactly. The key is finding that specific willow.

Hardest Spot to Find: Flower Wall

Navigate to Wuyue Nian Inn. The flower wall at the entrance is the photo spot. Many fans walked back and forth for ages without finding it. It's actually in a small alley, so don't look on the main road.

Hardest Spot to Time Right: The Market

Every Friday, Shaxi has a local market. Residents come out to shop, and it's incredibly lively. If you want to experience local flavor, this is a must. Local aunties bring freshly grown vegetables and all sorts of oddities, and prices are dirt cheap! Bring a bamboo basket—it's practical for carrying things and makes a great photo prop.

A Birthday to Remember at a Secret Campsite

When I searched for Shaxi guides online, no one mentioned camping. I overheard the inn manager talking about hiring someone to take you foraging for wild mushrooms, cooking outdoors, and having afternoon tea. I was instantly intrigued. The next day happened to be my birthday, so I booked it immediately—an outdoor birthday like no other.

The older I get, the more I dread birthdays. Travel helps soften that sadness about my body slowly losing its edge.

Dayangchang: A Forgotten Paradise

The campsite was called "Dayangchang," about a 40-minute drive from Shaxi. The whole way was rural scenery. Once we went up the mountain, we could have pitched camp anywhere. That day started cloudy and extremely windy—even a knit sweater couldn't keep out the cold. To warm up, we lit a campfire, which created a surprisingly cozy atmosphere.

Honestly, it doesn't matter where you go—what matters is who you're with. In city life, everyone's busy, and gathering is rare. A cup of tea in the wilderness becomes a luxury. I hope we can keep traveling together every year.

Foraging, Cooking, and Stargazing

Tea brewed over a wood fire tastes especially aromatic. We tried foraging on the spot, picking pine needles to steep in the tea—light, elegant, and absolutely delicious. Highly recommended!

This season, you absolutely cannot miss mushroom foraging. We walked and picked along the way. We had no idea if any were edible, but the thrill of discovery was pure fun—every find brought excitement. Locals told us that mushrooms with insect bites are definitely not poisonous, but online sources say insects specifically target toxic ones. My advice: just enjoy the foraging experience and don't eat them. Better safe than sorry.

The most fun outdoor activity is cooking your own meal. My friend, who never cooks at home, transformed into a different person outdoors—washing, chopping, channeling her inner chef. Meanwhile, I, the usual cook, just sat there like I was posing for a photo.

We made homemade 牛肝菌炒五花肉 (porcini mushroom stir-fried with pork belly), and it was incredible—we polished off a huge bowl. Simple ingredients: porcini mushrooms, pork belly, green chili peppers, dried chili peppers, and garlic cloves. Use plenty of mushrooms—they taste amazing when stir-fried. First, render the fat from the pork belly until translucent, then add the chilies and garlic until fragrant. Finally, toss in the mushrooms and stir-fry thoroughly—make sure they're fully cooked. Sprinkle with a little salt, and you're done. Incredibly fragrant.

We thought the bad weather meant no sunset or stars, so we started packing up. Then suddenly the wind cleared the clouds, and the sky turned beautiful. Unexpectedly, we got lucky—not just stars, but the Milky Way and shooting stars too! I made a wish: to reach Antarctica one day.

Shizhongshan Grottoes: The Dunhuang of the South

"North has Dunhuang, South has Shizhong." This saying captures the weight of the Shizhongshan Grottoes. To be mentioned alongside Dunhuang means it's destined to be legendary.

Among the 139 statues in the Shizhongshan Grottoes, besides historical figures from the Nanzhao Kingdom, there are Buddhist statues like Shakyamuni and the Eight Great Vidyarajas, as well as depictions of daily life—woodcutters, old men, lute players, children, and the Ayangbai statue. All are lifelike and full of vitality.

Because the grottoes are located on Shibaoshan Mountain, they're also called Shibaoshan Grottoes. They were created in the late Tang Dynasty, through the Five Dynasties to the Song Dynasty—at least a thousand years old. So far, 17 caves have been discovered, spread across Shizhong Temple (Caves 1-8), Shiziguan (Caves 9-11), and Shadengjing (Caves 12-17).

If your main focus is the grottoes, head straight to Shizhong Temple. If you want to hike, you can trek from Shadengjing to Shizhong Temple. If you're after mushroom foraging, go to Shiziguan. Shadengjing is a hiker's paradise—very few people, and from the mountaintop, you can see the entire Shaxi valley.

Shizhong Temple scenic area ticket: 45 yuan. You can take a bus directly to the temple entrance for 20 yuan one way.

Pioneer Bookstore: Poetry and Distance in the Most Beautiful Bookstore

This is Pioneer's fifth rural bookstore and its first in Yunnan. The name is especially literary: Pioneer Bookstore · Shaxi Bai Nationality Bookstore. Because Li Xian visited privately during filming, it's now a Shaxi internet-famous spot.

In 2016, Pioneer Bookstore founder Qian Xiaohua was introduced to Shaxi by a friend. Captivated by this traditional Bai village, the Shaxi Bai Nationality Bookstore was born. The bookstore consists of three parts: the main building, a café, and a poetry tower. The main building was once the village granary, while the former tall tobacco-drying shed has been transformed into a poetic tower.

The design cleverly preserves the granary's historical appearance, renovating without erasing the old. If these old buildings weren't repurposed, they'd soon be razed. Through this bookstore, old structures gain new life, stories continue, and locals keep a piece of their memory and nostalgia.

📍 Address: Beilong Village, Shaxi Ancient Town 🚙 Transportation: 20 minutes on foot from the ancient town, or take a small yellow minibus from Yujin Bridge (about 10 yuan per person)

San Yi: The Hidden Terrace 99% of People Miss

San Yi, a terrace café open only four hours a day, is an absolute Shaxi gem. Every seat is perfect for photos or simply zoning out—the kind of place where you can spend your days living slowly.

My first impression of San Yi came from a volunteer uncle I met at Lugu Lake. He said he'd spent two months in Shaxi, and San Yi was his favorite café. He'd just sit there every day, letting time drift by, feeling utterly content.

Why is it called San Yi? Apparently because the door number is 31, the owner was 31 when she opened the shop, and you have to climb 31 steps to reach the café. Everything has its reason.

☕️ Recommendation: Iron pot coffee and waffles—every table that orders waffles says they're amazing and orders another round. 🛎 Opening Hours: 14:00-18:00. Don't show up at the wrong time.

Du Ya: Three Rejections for This Cup of Coffee

Du Ya is known as the god of Shaxi coffee. I waited three days for it to open, then drank there three days straight. Can anyone argue it's Shaxi's number one coffee?

The owners are a serious, gentle couple—neither overly eccentric nor aggressively commercial. They make you feel comfortable and professional. The shop specializes in pour-over coffee with a wide selection of beans. If I had enough time, I'd try every single one.

"No second floor, no ice, coffee without sugar"—this was the most shocking thing on the menu. I've always dreamed of owning a café where customers aren't allowed to add sugar. Du Ya just went ahead and wrote it down.

📍 Address: 38 Nangu Alley, Shaxi Town

You Yi Cun: Cold Mixed Tree Moss That's Legendary, Plus a Handsome Owner

On my first night in Shaxi, it was very late. All the shops were closed, and my stomach was growling. The only option was You Yi Cun (Another Village) near the parking lot. Turned out to be a hidden treasure.

The prices were ridiculously cheap. We ordered four dishes for only 115 yuan—not per person, but total! I was floored!

Recommended dishes: 乳扇 (milk fan, a local cheese-like dairy product), 粉皮 (rice noodle sheets), 凉拌树花 (cold mixed tree moss), and meatball soup. There's a local Yunnan saying: "If it moves, it's meat; if it's green, it's a vegetable!" The cold mixed tree moss at You Yi Cun is the best I've ever had—sour and spicy, perfect with rice.

Just as we were finishing, we noticed the young owner was incredibly handsome—the kind of cute, pure-faced charm with sincere eyes. Isn't he the Shaxi version of Ding Zhen? For the handsome boss alone, this place is worth a visit.

Xi Lu: Love and Great Food, Three Meals in a Row

Xi Lu Private Kitchen (a poetic name meaning "Crane Hut") serves authentic Bai cuisine with perfect flavors. The entire courtyard is run by an elderly couple. The first floor is the restaurant, the upper floor is a guesthouse.

The grandfather is 84, a retired doctor who now writes orders and handles the bills. The grandmother is 79, formerly the head chef. Now she supervises the kitchen while a helper does the actual cooking. They're always smiling, happily chatting with guests, sharing the photo album that tells their love story, and getting genuinely upset when someone leaves a bad review about poor service—because their service comes from the heart.

Recommended dishes: 燕麦炒肉沫 (stir-fried minced pork with oats—incredible with rice), 老奶洋芋 (old lady's mashed potatoes—Shaxi uses red potatoes, which are more flavorful), 松茸鸡汤 (matsutake mushroom chicken soup—real ingredients, no shortcuts), 香草排骨 (herb-infused pork ribs—the grandmother says it's their signature), 炸粉皮地参 (fried rice noodle sheets with local root vegetable).

📍 Address: 33 Sijie Street, Shaxi Town 💰 Prices are extremely cheap—around 20-30 yuan per person. All ingredients are fresh and displayed openly. The grandmother even showed us the oil they use—high-quality and expensive.

Xi Lu isn't just about great taste; it's filled with warmth. There's a sweet, loving atmosphere in every dish. I hope they can keep running this place for a very long time.

Canceling My Flight Ticket, Just to Rent a Small Courtyard Here

Returning to Shaxi, I immediately regretted one thing—not buying a small courtyard here earlier and starting a new life.

I met a middle-aged man from Beijing. He bought a courtyard in the ancient town a few years ago for just 60,000 yuan. Now, the annual rent alone is more than that! Years have passed, and Shaxi remains beautiful, the entire town steeped in a sense of ease.

Going from the fields back to the office tower, trading sandals for high heels, replacing the sound of wind through wheat with a barrage of work reports—that was the moment I made up my mind: rent a small courtyard and settle down in Shaxi!

My best friend had already started her journey home. But for the sake of this courtyard life, she canceled her flight ticket and stayed in Shaxi to look at properties.

Final Thoughts

In the future, I hope our small courtyard in Shaxi will have an osmanthus tree. Looking up, we'll see the stars. Looking down, we'll find peace in the passing days.

If you're tired of the city's noise, come to Shaxi. You don't need to search for anything specific. Every moment here will tell you: life can actually be slow, and beautiful.

Practical Tips: - Transportation: About 2 hours by car from Dali, or take a bus to Jianchuan and then transfer - Best Season: Spring and autumn, with pleasant weather - Accommodation: Book in advance, especially during peak season - Must-Try Experiences: The Friday market, camping, coffee tasting, and a meal at Xi Lu

May you also find your own slow time in Shaxi.