Take Me to the Distance: Ten Days in Yunnan, a Poetic Journey Through Our Youth

Prologue: Setting Off, Just to Be Together

Some trips are planned for ages, yet always lack that final spark of spontaneity. We were students, with a tight budget but limitless dreams. An August summer, two student IDs, a point-and-shoot camera, two people, 3,500 yuan, ten days — from Kunming to Lijiang, from Lugu Lake to Dali. This journey through Yunnan became the brightest chapter of our youth.

On the day we left, we boarded train T61 from Changsha to Kunming — a full 22 hours in hard seats. Ticket inspections were strict; anyone whose student ticket didn't match the route was asked to pay the difference. But we didn't care. The scenery outside the window kept changing, but the person beside me never did.

Chapter One: Kunming — First Impressions and Farewells in the Spring City

A Flower Market on Qixi Festival, Sunflowers as Romance

At 6:57 in the morning, the train pulled into Kunming on time. We stashed our luggage at the station and set off light. Taking bus number 25, we got off at Minhang Road intersection and walked to the flower market on Chajie Street. It happened to be Qixi Festival (Chinese Valentine's Day), and my boyfriend — whom I call "Fatty" — gave me flowers. In that moment, all the exhaustion of the journey felt worth it.

After the flower market, we walked to the City Museum stop and popped in for a quick visit. Then we took bus number 1 to Yunnan University. The campus was breathtaking — ancient trees towering, green shade spreading everywhere. I thought to myself, if we came here in autumn, the golden ginkgo leaves would be impossibly beautiful. At the university, I bought a huge bunch of sunflowers for just eight yuan. Holding them in my arms felt like holding the entire summer.

A Missed Opportunity at Cuihu Lake and a Distant View of Dianchi

From Yunnan University, we walked to Cuihu (Green Lake) Park. The lotus flowers had already withered — a bit of a shame. But it didn't matter. In the afternoon, we went to Haigeng Park — student tickets were only ten yuan, great value for money. The water in Dianchi Lake wasn't exactly clean, but taking the cable car up to Xishan (Western Hills) and looking down at the entire lake gave us such a sense of openness that for a while, all our worries faded.

That evening, we tried the famous "crossing-the-bridge rice noodles" (guoqiao mixian) at Jianxinyuan restaurant. Kunming's rice noodles truly live up to their reputation — rich broth, silky smooth noodles. After eating, we caught the L9614 overnight train from Kunming to Lijiang, departing at 22:28 and arriving the next morning at 7:39.

Chapter Two: Lijiang — Dawn and Dusk in the Ancient Town, Dust on the Tea Horse Road

Lashi Lake: Horseback Riding and Boating, Joy in the Jostling

When we arrived at Lijiang railway station, the sky was just getting light. We took bus number 18 to Zhongyi Market and walked into Dayan Ancient Town. The weather was good, so we decided to head to Lashi Lake first. We found a travel agency in the old town — 90 yuan per person, including horseback riding, boat ride, and lunch. Don't trust the touts on the street; their prices are inflated and the service is poor.

Riding a horse along the Ancient Tea Horse Road was honestly a bit scary. The horses walked on mountain paths, and the sound of their hooves slipping made my heart race. But the scenery was stunning — narrow paths through the hills, green trees lining the way, as if we'd traveled back to the era of the great caravan routes. That said, horseback riding really hurts your backside — the jolting was intense, and for days afterward I still felt like I was swaying on that horse.

Boating on Lashi Lake was lovely — the water was clear, the sky was blue. But a friend had warned us: visit Lashi Lake first, then Lugu Lake, or the contrast would be too disappointing. Later, we realized how right they were.

Shuhe: Clearer Water Than Dayan, Gentler Dogs Than Imagined

After Lashi Lake, the driver dropped us at the back gate of Shuhe Ancient Town. Shuhe's water was much clearer than Dayan's, and the guesthouses had more character. We checked into a hostel called "Chongzi Jia" (Bug's Home). In the courtyard, there was an Old English Sheepdog, fluffy and incredibly gentle. I used to be terrified of dogs, but this one seemed to have some kind of magic — slowly, it helped me let go of my fear. After returning from Yunnan, my classmates said my dog phobia seemed to have disappeared. I think it was because of him.

That evening, we wandered through Shuhe's alleyways and found a place serving Naxi grilled fish — it was delicious. We continued writing postcards, which is my favorite travel ritual — sending landscapes and feelings to friends far away.

Dayan: Morning Tranquility and the View from Wenchang Palace

The next day, we visited Qingshui (Clearwater) Reservoir and had Naxi grilled fish for lunch. In the afternoon, we went back to Dayan Ancient Town to find a guesthouse. My advice: head from Sifang Street toward Dashi Bridge. The alleys there are lined with guesthouses — close to the busy area but still quiet. We found one for just over 100 yuan a night, not bad. If you want a panoramic view, walk toward Wenchang Palace. There are guesthouses along the way up the hill, but even if you're not staying, you can sit on the observation deck in front of the palace, gaze out over the entire old town, and just zone out — it's pure bliss.

In the early morning, Dayan was so quiet you hardly dared to breathe. The air was sweet, the cobblestones were damp, and the bar street hadn't woken up yet. In the evening, little bridges arched over flowing water, river lanterns drifted by, and someone was taking artistic photos by the water's edge. I photographed a line someone had written — it reminded me of a book I'd read, "Ten Years of Loving You" (Shi Nian Yi Pin Wen Ru Yan).

Chapter Three: Lugu Lake — Water Bluer Than the Sky, Clouds Lower Than the Mountains

Group Tour or Independent Travel? My Choice

If it's your first time at Lugu Lake, I recommend joining a group tour. We found an agency near the Big Waterwheel — 430 yuan per person for a two-day pure-play tour. Later, we met other travelers who had paid 550 yuan for the same thing — we saved 120 yuan. Many agencies advertise tours starting at 320 yuan, but those don't include the lake circuit tour or the bonfire party, so they're not worth it.

We gathered at the Big Waterwheel at 7 a.m., and by noon we were in Ninglang County for lunch. Group tour food is terrible — bring your own snacks. Around 1 p.m., as the bus came through the last tunnel, Lugu Lake suddenly appeared before us. Everyone gasped. The water was bluer than the sky, and the clouds hung so low they seemed almost touchable.

Liwu Bi Island, Lige Village, Xiaoluoshui: Surprises at Every Turn

We took a "pig trough boat" (zhucao chuan) to Liwu Bi Island. The elderly woman rowing the boat tried to persuade everyone to circle the island for 20 yuan per person — it takes just a few minutes and isn't worth it, so don't fall for it. After the boat ride, we went to the Lige observation deck for photos, then headed to Xiaoluoshui (Little Falling Water) Village. Along the way, we saw the legendary "Lover's Trees" — two trees leaning into each other, intertwined like love itself.

At a Mosuo family home in Xiaoluoshui, we had afternoon tea and tried what the Mosuo people jokingly call "KFC" — actually roasted potatoes and zanba (roasted barley flour), surprisingly tasty. Then we walked to Yang Erche Namu's house, which was already in Sichuan territory. The lake view from her doorstep was so beautiful it left us speechless.

That evening, there was a bonfire party — crowded and lively. We stayed in Daluoshui (Big Falling Water) Village. The accommodations were basic, but you could pay extra for a lake-view room. We didn't upgrade, and I still regret it.

Day Two: The Pitfalls of a Home Visit and Farewell Views

The next morning, we had rice noodles for breakfast at a shop near the guesthouse and bought snacks for lunch. At 9 a.m., we gathered for a Mosuo home visit — this part was a bit of a scam. Someone will try to get you to have your fortune told, make offerings, or donate money. Handle it as you see fit. If you want to stay at the same guesthouse in Dayan, remember to call ahead and book.

By late afternoon, we were back in Lijiang. Lugu Lake is one of those places you never want to leave. The water is bluer than the sky — at the center of the lake, you can drink it straight, and it's sweet and refreshing. Huge peonies bloomed by the roadside, and the legendary "water hyacinth" (shuixing yanghua) floated on the surface. Everything felt unreal, like a dream.

Chapter Four: Dali — Slow Time by Erhai Lake

Shuanglang: Facing the Sea, Spring Blossoms

From Lijiang to Dali, we took train K9612, departing at 8:38 and arriving at 10:30. Getting off at Xiaguan Station, we took bus number 8 to the North Bus Terminal, then transferred to a minibus from Xiaguan to Shuanglang. Our destination was Haidi Living (Sea Life) Hostel in Dajianpang Village. This hostel is incredibly popular — it has few rooms, and sometimes you can't book even a month in advance. We managed to get a dorm bed. The bathroom was shared, but everything else was great.

When I arrived at Haidi and saw the sea view, only one thought came to mind: "Facing the sea, with spring blossoms." For the first time, I considered becoming a volunteer there, just to stay forever. Right next door was Bandao 63 (Peninsula 63), equally beautiful. We sat in Haidi's café writing postcards, watching the sunset over Erhai Lake. In the evening, we lounged in the courtyard, letting the breeze wash over us — it was the most relaxed moment of the entire trip.

Cycling Around Erhai: Countryside Scenery and a Stroll Through the Ancient Town

The next day, we rented bikes and cycled along Erhai Lake. If you have time, you can ride to Wase Village — the round trip takes about four hours, and it's said to be stunning. We rode for a while, passing the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple — we didn't buy tickets, just admired them from a distance. Then we went through Caicun Pier and Longkan Pier, following the West Erhai Road. The countryside looked like an oil painting.

At noon, we took a bus to Dali Ancient Town, wandered down Yangren (Foreigner) Street, and climbed the city wall for a panoramic view. Dali feels quieter than Lijiang, more lived-in. That evening, we caught train L9616 back to Kunming, departing at 23:22 and arriving at 6:05 the next morning. In Dali, the last bus runs at 20:30. If you miss it, you can wait for a minibus at the South Gate — it costs 4 yuan per person.

Epilogue: Four Years Together, Ten Days of Warmth

On the train back from Kunming to Changsha, I stared out the window and thought about every moment of those ten days. Wandering for over a week felt a bit unsettled, but I never felt uneasy. Because he was always there beside me — within arm's reach, within an embrace.

No matter how comforting a WeChat message is, it can never replace the warmth of a real hug.

This was our fourth year together. From Changsha to Yunnan, from Kunming to Dali, from ancient towns to lakeshores — every road we walked, every scene we saw, became the most precious part of our memories.

May everything always be as beautiful as it is today.

Practical Tips (For Those Who Want to Set Off Too)

1. Budget Control: Two people, ten days, spent less than 3,500 yuan. The key is smart planning for transport and accommodation — choose hostels or dorms, and take overnight trains to save on lodging.
2. Student ID: Lugu Lake tickets are 50 yuan cheaper with a student ID, and the Ethnic Village also offers student discounts. Don't forget to bring it.
3. Weather & Gear: Yunnan's weather is unpredictable. Bring an umbrella and sunscreen. Temperature swings between day and night are big, so pack a jacket.
4. Lashi Lake vs. Lugu Lake: Visit Lashi Lake first, then Lugu Lake — otherwise the contrast will be too stark.
5. Group Tour Choice: For a two-day Lugu Lake tour, go with a reputable agency. Around 430 yuan is a reasonable price. Make sure to ask if the lake circuit and bonfire party are included.
6. Dali Cycling: The West Erhai Road has the most beautiful scenery. Recommended cycling route: Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple — Caicun Pier — Longkan Pier — South Gate.
7. Postcards: Postcards are sold everywhere in Yunnan. Buy a few and send them to friends — they're the most heartfelt souvenirs from any trip.

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