The Meaning of Travel: At Lugu Lake, Encountering a Dialogue Between Scenery and Soul

Have you ever felt that urge—to spread a map open, run your finger across unfamiliar place names, and imagine yourself standing on that untouched land, breathing different air? Travel is never simply about physical movement; it is the soul's longing for the unknown. In June 2012, my companion and I set out on a journey to Lugu Lake (Luguhu)—a memory of landscapes, human connections, and self-discovery that still glimmers faintly in my heart.

Departure: From Chengdu to Xichang, Anxiety and Anticipation on the Night Train

A Sleepless Night on the Train

At 7:20 PM on June 4th, at Chengdu Railway Station, we boarded the K673 train, clutching our pre-purchased hard-sleeper tickets (round trip costing 149 RMB per person). I wouldn't recommend this train—the carriage was so noisy that falling asleep was nearly impossible. The clattering of wheels on the tracks, a relentless "clang-clang-clang," echoed all night, as if reminding you: the journey has begun, but the real scenery still lies ahead.

In the dead of night on the train, I leaned against the window, watching the city lights gradually fade, replaced by endless darkness. My heart was a mix of excitement and nervousness: Lugu Lake, that place described by countless people as a "mysterious kingdom of women," how would it welcome us?

Xichang's Morning and the "Reliable" Ticket-Delivering Grandma

Just after 5 AM on June 5th, the train finally arrived in Xichang. It was still dark. We took a taxi to the Xichang Tourism Passenger Transport Center (no meter, 20 RMB). At a small restaurant near the station, a steaming breakfast dispelled the night's chill. We had booked tickets from Xichang to Lugu Lake online in advance (94 RMB per person). The elderly woman who delivered the tickets was very down-to-earth, repeatedly urging us to eat a good breakfast and watch out for pickpockets—this kindness from a stranger added a touch of warmth to the journey.

Practical Tip: There are only two regular buses from Xichang to Lugu Lake each day (8:10 AM and 8:40 AM). It's recommended to book online three days in advance. Tickets at the station cost 81 RMB plus 1 RMB for insurance; online booking is 94 RMB. Spending a little extra for peace of mind is worth it.

Seven Hours of Bumpy Roads: Scenery and Perseverance on the Mountain Highway

The Test at 3,200 Meters Above Sea Level

As the bus left Xichang, it plunged straight into a sea of连绵 mountains. The winding mountain road was like a gray ribbon wrapped around the steep cliffs. The highest point reached over 3,200 meters above sea level, but luckily, neither of us suffered from altitude sickness. When we stopped for a break, the aroma of food wafting from roadside restaurants wasn't tempting—we chose to eat our own snacks, and this proved to be a wise decision (on the return trip, we tried the local food, and it really wasn't good).

During the seven-plus-hour drive, the scenery outside the window gradually transitioned from low shrubs to tall coniferous forests. The air grew fresher, the sky bluer. When I first caught sight of Lugu Lake's surface, all my fatigue vanished instantly—it was a blue that words cannot describe, so pure it made you want to cry.

Arriving at Luowa Peninsula: The Border Between the Grass Sea and the Lake

The scenic area ticket was 40 RMB for students with a half-price discount. After passing the checkpoint, there was still a distance to Lugu Lake Town. We contacted the Nammu Inn, which we had booked earlier, and asked them to send someone to pick us up. In the off-season, there's actually no need to book a room in advance—there are plenty of inns around Lugu Lake. You can choose on the spot, and the prices are reasonable: regular rooms 50-70 RMB per night, lake-view rooms slightly more expensive, around 100 RMB.

We stayed on Luowa Peninsula, a place where the Grass Sea (Caohai) meets Lugu Lake. After dropping off our luggage, we couldn't wait to go out and take photos. It was already 5 PM. We rented a tandem bicycle (10 RMB per hour) and headed straight for the nearby Grass Sea and the Walking Marriage Bridge (Zouhun Qiao).

Luowa's Dusk and Dawn: Two Completely Different Kinds of Beauty

Laughter and Solitude on the Walking Marriage Bridge

The Walking Marriage Bridge spans the Grass Sea and is a testament to the Mosuo people's "walking marriage" tradition. There weren't many tourists on the bridge. The two of us struck various poses for photos—our original group of six had dwindled to just two, so we had to ask passing strangers to take group shots. Fatty (my travel companion) always tried to act cool, but the moment a camera appeared, he couldn't resist flashing a peace sign. That habit of "feeling uncomfortable without a peace sign" became the cutest running joke of the trip.

The Grass Sea wasn't fully green yet, but the layered blend of green and yellow had its own charm. At the snack stalls at the bridgehead, we tried local specialties like grilled potatoes and cold noodles—simple but delicious.

At dusk on Luowa Pier, the setting sun painted the lake gold. The distant mountain shadows reflected in the water, so serene that we dared not speak loudly. In that moment, I truly understood what "peaceful times" meant.

Sunrise: A Fairyland of Mist Over the Lake

At 6 AM on June 6th, the alarm clock rang punctually. Although the innkeeper said sunrise would be around 7 AM, we got up early anyway, afraid of missing it. The temperature at Lugu Lake in the early morning was very low—remember to bring a jacket.

A thin mist floated over the lake, like a veil draped over the water. The sun slowly rose from behind the mountains, its light piercing through the fog and scattering tiny flecks of gold on the surface. It wasn't the most spectacular sunrise, but the hazy beauty was all the more captivating.

Back at the inn, Zhashi (the young innkeeper) had already prepared breakfast—steamed buns and nutritious congee. He was truly a capable young man, his smile carrying the unique simplicity of the Mosuo people.

Laughter on the Pig-Trough Boat and the Crystal-Clear Lake Water

From Luowa to Daluoshui: A 90 RMB Water Journey

After breakfast, we set off to take a pig-trough boat (Zhucao Chuan). From Luowa to Daluoshui, the boat ticket was 90 RMB per person (the price had gone up compared to before, but the boatman said the fee included safety insurance, so they could be held responsible if something happened—for the sake of the beautiful scenery, we swallowed it). There were four aunties on the boat with us. They kept the two Mosuo young men rowing the boat in stitches with their jokes, even giving them nicknames like "Big Mende'er" and "Little Mende'er."

Sitting on the boat, the true beauty of Lugu Lake revealed itself. The water was so clear you could see the aquatic plants more than ten meters below. The oars cut through the surface, stirring up ripples. In the distance, Mount Gemu (Gemu Nüshan) stood quietly, like a guardian deity. In that moment, all worries were washed away by the lake water.

Hiking to Lige: Meeting Kind Hearts and New Friends

After more than an hour, the boat docked at Daluoshui. We decided to hike to Lige—only by covering the ground on foot could we truly appreciate the beauty of Lugu Lake. But the weather was too hot, and our energy was gradually waning. Fortunately, a young man from Yunnan gave us a free ride. His silhouette in the sunlight seemed especially warm. To this day, I still remember that kindness from a stranger.

Lige Island was beautiful, but we didn't stay long. For lunch, we had two bowls of rice noodles—mediocre at best. It was in that small shop that we met Xinxin and A'xia from Guangzhou, along with their friends. They had also hiked over from Daluoshui, so we agreed to hike together to Xiaoluoshui in the afternoon.

Xiaoluoshui and Dazu Pier: Chance Encounters and Farewells

Hiking Under the Scorching Sun and a Hitchhike

Under the blazing sun, hiking on the winding mountain road was truly grueling. We flagged down a car and paid five RMB each to ride to Xiaoluoshui. Then we walked to Dazu Pier. We had originally planned to stay there, but the room rates were all over 100 RMB. Thinking that Luowa was only a few dozen RMB and more lively, we decided to return to Luowa. Xinxin and her friends took a bus back to Daluoshui.

At Dazu, we were lucky enough to catch a ride back to Luowa for 30 RMB for the two of us. Along the way, the driver told us many stories about the Mosuo people—tales about the walking marriage tradition and matrilineal families—adding another layer of mystery to Lugu Lake.

"Good Person's Snacks" at Zhaojia Bay: Stuffed for 30 RMB

On June 7th, our plan was to hike to Zhaojia Bay for some meat! We had heard about the famous "Good Person's Snacks" (Haoren Xiaochi), where 30 RMB per person gets you all-you-can-eat. The owner, Brother Zhao, was a warm-hearted man. His shop was simple, but the flavors were absolutely worth it. During the meal, we met four new friends: A'yang and her boyfriend, Ping'er, and A'zou.

The water at Zhaojia Bay was crystal clear. We played skipping stones by the lake and took photos, having a blast. Fatty's red underwear accidentally showed, becoming a source of laughter for everyone. Dried apple slices are a local specialty and very tasty—you can buy some as souvenirs. Brother Zhao's Weibo is ***2820605062. He really is a good person; everyone, please help spread the word.

Rowing on the Grass Sea and an Evening at Half-Boat Bar

Back in Luowa that evening, we ran into Xinxin and her friends again. We wanted to row on the Grass Sea, but Nammu was too busy and told us to go on our own. It turned out to be all mud—the boat simply wouldn't move—and we ended up creating quite a few funny mishaps. That night, we went to Half-Boat Bar (Ban Chuan Jiu Guan). The owner sang for us, and we all sat together chatting, sharing our travel stories. That feeling of "I'm so glad I met you" made the journey especially warm.

Goodbye, Lugu Lake: What We Took Away Was More Than Photos

Expense Breakdown (Total for Two: Approximately 2,120 RMB)

• Transportation: Train tickets round trip 616 RMB, Xichang to Lugu Lake 188 RMB, Lugu Lake to Xichang 164 RMB, subtotal 968 RMB
• Accommodation & Meals: Accommodation approx. 240 RMB (60 RMB/night × 4 nights), meals approx. 200 RMB
• Tickets & Boat Fare: Scenic area tickets 80 RMB, boat tickets 180 RMB
• Other: Supermarket shopping, snacks, sunscreen, shawl, etc., approx. 300 RMB

The Meaning of Travel

During my four days at Lugu Lake, I saw the most beautiful scenery and met the most wonderful people. From the sleepless night on the train to the bumpy mountain roads; from the laughter on the Walking Marriage Bridge to the songs on the pig-trough boat; from the "Good Person's Snacks" at Zhaojia Bay to the evening talks at Half-Boat Bar—every moment has become a precious fragment of memory.

The meaning of travel has never been about how many places you've been or how many photos you've taken, but about what version of yourself you meet along the way and what stories you bring back. The waters of Lugu Lake will remember our laughter, and we will remember that lake, so blue it made our hearts ache, where a pig-trough boat once carried our dreams, slowly sailing into the distance.

Goodbye, Lugu Lake. Goodbye, all you lovely people. May we all find our own meaning on the road.

This article is based on a real travel experience from June 2012. Some contact information has been omitted. Travel details may change over time; it is recommended to confirm the latest information before your trip.