The Romance of Valentine's Day 2025 Was Gifted by Lugu Lake | Writing Our Mosuo Love Letter in the Winter "Kingdom of Women"

After seeing so many breathtaking landscapes and experiencing so many people and moments, I've come to realize that I don't need to travel far or explore the world to find what I truly want. The only world I want to journey through is yours.

Foreword: An Unexpected Valentine's Day Trip

As a native of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, I never felt a strong attachment to Lugu Lake. My hometown has Fuxian Lake in Yuxi, Kunming has Dianchi Lake, and Dali has Erhai Lake—I've visited all of them countless times. No matter how beautiful a lake is, you eventually grow tired of the scenery.

But life is full of coincidences. In mid-February 2025, I happened to be on a business trip to Ninglang County in Lijiang, and Friday happened to be Valentine's Day. Thinking, "Since I'm already here, why not take the weekend to visit Lugu Lake?" And just like that, this unplanned romantic journey began.

I first heard about Lugu Lake a long time ago. But what truly sparked my desire to visit was a Chinese reality show on Hunan TV called Dear Inn—the season featuring Liu Tao, Kan Qingzi, and Ji Lingchen. The Lugu Lake captured on camera looked almost unreal, like it belonged to another world. At the time, I told myself I had to go someday. But because it's in Yunnan, I always thought, "It's right in my backyard," and I kept putting it off.

Traveling Over Mountains and Rivers, Just to Meet You

Around 2 p.m. on Friday, I set off from Ninglang County. A colleague drove me there—about an hour's drive. My boyfriend, on the other hand, traveled from Kunming to meet me. I initially assumed there were daily flights from Kunming to Lugu Lake, but after checking, I realized that wasn't the case. After comparing options, he chose the most "hardcore" route: after work on Thursday, he took a hard-sleeper train to Lijiang at around 10 p.m., slept through the night, and arrived at 8:30 a.m. the next day.

Once at Lijiang Railway Station, he expected to find plenty of shared rides to Lugu Lake. But there were none—probably because it was the off-season. In the end, he bought a bus ticket for about 50 to 60 RMB, departed at 9 a.m., and didn't arrive at Lugu Lake Scenic Area until 3 p.m.

You read that right. In 2025, it still takes six hours by bus from Lijiang to Lugu Lake. My business trip by company car from Kunming to Hongxing Village Committee in Ninglang County also took seven hours. All told, my boyfriend truly "traveled over mountains and rivers" to spend Valentine's Day with me—leaving at 9 p.m. the night before and arriving at 3 p.m. the next day. The most absurd part? We hadn't even left Yunnan Province.

Poor accessibility was Lugu Lake's first impression on us. Haha.

A Leisurely Drive Around the Lake, Love Budding on the Shore

After arriving in the afternoon, we hopped into my colleague's car and began a tour around the lake.

Winter Lugu Lake is completely different from summer. The Grass Sea (Caohai) was a blend of yellow and blue. Valentine's Day wasn't blessed with great weather—thick clouds, snow on the mountains, and a misty sky.

Near the Walking Marriage Bridge (Zouhun Qiao), there were birds swimming on the water—I couldn't name them, maybe wild ducks. The roadside was lined with local vendors and hair-braiding sellers. The only things that caught my eye were the carved wooden ducks and little boats on their stalls. But thinking they'd just collect dust at home, I decided not to buy any. I muttered to myself: "Well, this is it? Traveling all this way, and there's not much to do. The lake isn't even as beautiful as Fuxian Lake."

Then we reached the viewing platform at Lige Peninsula. From a distance, it was somewhat stunning. But since my colleague was with us, it wasn't convenient to go down and explore properly. We decided to come back the next day.

After brief stops at three or four spots, the lake tour ended. My colleague dropped us off at Daluoshui Village, and we finally had our alone time.

Hotel and Dinner: The "Value" Debate in the Off-Season

It was freezing cold, and the off-season was eerily quiet—the streets were nearly empty. We decided to eat at the hotel.

We booked the Haixi Hotel (Haixi Jiudian) at Lugu Lake. Let me start with the verdict: at over 1,200 RMB per night in such a low season, it simply wasn't worth it.

The hotel had a French-style decor, but it was clearly designed for social media—rough craftsmanship, not at all luxurious. The so-called "lake-view room" looked out onto a dirt road and a parking lot, with the lake over a hundred meters away.

For dinner, we had a hotpot of Lijiang cured pork ribs and chicken (Lijiang La Paigu Dun Ji Huoguo), priced at 258 RMB. The taste was average, but it gave us a sense of how expensive things are at Lugu Lake—probably due to the inconvenient transportation. Still, the restaurant had a nice ambiance. On Valentine's night, having a warm hotpot all to ourselves—the entire restaurant was ours for the evening, with only one table occupied—was a unique experience.

After dinner, I took a bath in a cave-style tub and called it a day. The hotel service was decent: bubble bath balls for the tub, and they delivered tremella soup or warm milk to the room at night. They also offered free, unlimited shuttle service to Sancun Village or Daluoshui Village. Those little touches were nice.

But I couldn't compromise on my obsession with "lake-view rooms." This wasn't a true lake-view room—it was too far from the water. At 1,200 RMB in the off-season, it wasn't worth it. I think 600 to 700 RMB would be a fair price.

My advice to you: before booking, call the hotel and ask how far it is from the lake. Some hotels that weren't demolished or renovated as part of environmental protection measures have doors that open right onto the lake—that's the real lake-view experience. Of course, if you don't mind being farther from the water, the bath at this hotel is still quite pleasant—but the price? Personally, I don't think it's justified.

Taking It Easy: A Winter State of Relaxation

My travel tip for Lugu Lake is this: first, drive around the lake to get a sense of each spot. Then, on the second day, pick the place you find most beautiful, clear your mind, do nothing, and just quietly take in the scenery.

After our first day circling the lake, we decided the most beautiful spots were Lige Peninsula and the entrance of the Qianshanji Hotel (Qianshan Ji Jiudian). We had actually considered staying at Qianshanji—the price was similar to ours—but it didn't have a soaking tub, so we chose Haixi. Looking back, I kind of regret it.

On the third morning, we woke up naturally, had breakfast at the hotel, and walked from our lakeside spot all the way to Qianshanji. The lake at dawn was indescribably beautiful—we'd chosen the right time, and in the off-season, there was no one around.

There happened to be two trees by the lake. Lugu Lake does have "lover trees," but these weren't them. Still, the view before us—the Goddess Mountain (Nüshen Shan) in the distance, the azure lake surface, and the pair of lover trees just beginning to sprout—when we flew the drone, it was truly stunning.

We snapped a bunch of photos and kept walking. We went quite far, but the water was so clear—crystal clear, no exaggeration.

Qianshanji: An Afternoon Tea Living Inside the Scenery

We arrived at the trendy hotel Xushi Shanhai (Xushi Shanhai), but they wouldn't let us in. So we headed to Qianshanji. A sign at the entrance read, "No entry for non-guests." Luckily, we ran into a staff member who told us we could take photos on the lawn—probably because during peak season, too many visitors disturb the guests. But that afternoon, there wasn't a single person around, and the staff were incredibly kind.

Feeling a bit guilty about just taking photos without paying, we ordered coffee and settled in for afternoon tea.

The moment we stepped onto the lawn at Qianshanji, we were blown away. Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book) wasn't lying—I think this is the most photogenic angle by the lake.

We met a guy from Ningxia who patiently helped us take this set of photos. I absolutely love them. Looking at the pictures, I felt romanticized by both myself and the landscape.

We ordered a cup of coffee and sat quietly on the grass. Across from us was the clear silhouette of Goddess Mountain, and the lake was as still as a mirror. I can hardly find words to describe the inner peace and joy I felt at that moment.

Every frame before my eyes was a painting. It felt like living inside the scenery.

He had spent a night on a hard-sleeper train and five hours on a mountain bus—just to meet me and live inside this landscape together. On this patch of grass overlooking mountains, rivers, and lakes, from dawn to dusk.

It was on this lawn that I first laid out my vision and plans for our future, opened my heart, and shared the anxiety and worries I'd been carrying. Even though the outcome I hoped for didn't happen, I took the initiative to speak up—hoping he would understand my feelings.

Lige Peninsula: From Disappointment to Surprise

After afternoon tea, we grabbed a quick bite at Sancun Village and took a taxi straight to Lige Peninsula.

The weather that day was perfect, and the peninsula looked completely different from the day before. This time, we walked in to explore the mysterious little island.

Along the way, we talked about what a shame it was—due to environmental regulations, none of the buildings on the island could operate anymore. You could tell there used to be hotels, restaurants, cafes, and guesthouses here. In this location, anything would have been a moneymaker. I wondered how the property owners later handled the compensation. If my family owned a house on this island, first we'd have to move out, second we couldn't run a business—I'm curious what the subsidy would be. Haha, just idle curiosity.

Honestly, I understand not allowing restaurants and hotels for environmental reasons. But they could turn the buildings into something else—an exhibition hall, a cultural experience center, something to make Lugu Lake a true landmark. After circling the lake, we realized there's really no centralized "scenic spot" or attraction here. Repurposing these spaces would be a great idea.

Haha, I'm back to my old ways—analyzing tourism management and development.

To buy a nice sand-glitter refrigerator magnet, we asked the driver to take us to the viewing platform. It was quite far from the lake—about a 15-20 minute drive. The only place selling the magnets we wanted was at the viewing platform. Which is strange—quality souvenirs aren't sold in the core scenic area, and you have to leave Lugu Lake to reach the platform, where no one stops.

The view from the platform was stunning. For the first time, I truly understood what it means for a lake to be "as calm as a mirror"—a gentle breeze pushing the water forward in soft ripples, creating tiny waves.

There was one postcard that was incredibly beautiful—colorless at first, but the scenery dyed it with hues. At Lugu Lake, I fell deeply in love with this shade of blue.

Dawn, Mist, and Seagulls: Embracing Winter's Silence and Romance

On the third day, the hotel owner told us that by mid-February, morning mist is rare. But with the mindset of "since we're already here," we decided to get up early and try to see it anyway.

Of course, we weren't that lucky—no mist. But we did experience a rare morning scene. After all, on any other trip, we'd sleep in until we naturally woke up.

I remember getting up at 6:30 a.m. The car picked us up at 7:20, and we arrived at Love Pier (Ai Qing Matou) at 7:40. We were shivering—I can't imagine how cold it must be in January or December for the morning mist. My partner's face was swollen from the cold, haha.

In the distance, we saw wisps of mist, but not much. It was incredibly quiet, with mist swirling around—like a fairyland.

We chartered a boat for just the two of us and quietly waited on the lake for sunrise. We'd prepared seagull feed, but forgot to bring it—haha.

Final Thoughts: Lugu Lake Through the Seasons

Lugu Lake is stunning in every season.

When the crowds are thin and the sun is just right, pick a clear, windless day to clear your mind, fall in love, and soak in the romance of nature among the mountains, rivers, and lakes.

I want to share this scenery—and this private sense of romance—with all of you.

Finally, here are some practical tips:

1. Transportation: The bus from Lijiang to Lugu Lake takes about 5-6 hours. Shared rides are scarce in the off-season, so plan your time in advance.
2. Accommodation: Before booking, ask exactly how far the hotel is from the lake. Don't be fooled by the words "lake-view room."
3. Itinerary: First, drive around the lake. On the second day, pick your favorite spot and just do nothing—that's the right way to experience Lugu Lake.
4. Food: The restaurant "Eating Time" (Chifan Shijian) in Daluoshui Village is pretty good. We happened to catch the crew of the show A Journey of Blossoms (Yi Lu Fanhua) finishing a shoot, so we got to eat the same dishes as the celebrities—including tree bark scrambled with eggs (shupi chao jidan), haha.
5. Souvenirs: Dried apple slices are worth buying, as well as the sand-glitter refrigerator magnets, which are only sold at the viewing platform.

Wishing you all a wonderful trip. See you at the next destination.

This travelogue was originally written by "The Only World I Want to Journey Through." Any reproduction requires the author's permission.