The Ultimate Semporna Guide: Diving, Island Hopping, Resorts, Food, and Photography

If there's one place that can silence the noise of modern life, it's the deep blue waters surrounding Semporna. There's something profoundly humbling about descending beneath the surface, leaving behind the chatter of the world, and entering a realm where time moves differently. Travel, at its core, is a search for authenticity—a journey to peel back the layers we accumulate and rediscover who we truly are.

For me, that journey began in April 2018, when my partner and I embarked on a ten-day adventure to this corner of Malaysian Borneo. What followed was a whirlwind of coral gardens, encounters with sea turtles, nights lit by fireflies, and moments that reminded us why we chase horizons in the first place.

This guide is my love letter to Semporna—and to everyone who dreams of exploring its waters.

Planning Your Semporna Trip: The Essentials

Getting There: Flights and Visas

Semporna itself doesn't have an international airport. You'll fly into Tawau Airport (TWU), which serves as the gateway. Most travelers transit through either Kuala Lumpur (KUL) or Kota Kinabalu (BKI).

I flew from Taipei via Kota Kinabalu. Since Kota Kinabalu is located in East Malaysia, it's geographically closer to Taiwan, which meant shorter flight times. If you're transiting through Kota Kinabalu with a long layover, there's a small hotel inside the airport terminal itself, located near the KFC on the ground floor. For anyone facing a six-hour-plus wait, it's worth booking a room—sleeping on airport benches gets old fast.

Airline Tip: I flew AirAsia, which is a budget carrier. Seat selection, checked baggage, and in-flight meals all come at an extra cost. If you want the most legroom, consider the exit row seats—though honestly, the difference between those and standard seats on an A320 isn't massive.

Airport to Semporna: Once you land, drivers will be waiting with signs reading "Semporna." It's a shared van service. The drive takes about one hour and costs 25 Malaysian Ringgit per person.

Visa Information:

Malaysia offers two main visa options for tourists:

• eNTRI (180 RMB): Cheaper but restricted. You can only enter through specific airports, and it's valid for 15 days. It works if you're flying directly from China or transiting via Singapore.
• eVISA (349 RMB): More flexible. Valid for 30 days, and you can enter by air, land, or sea. Since I was flying from Taipei, this was my only option.

Print your approved visa—you'll need to show it both when entering and leaving Malaysia. If you're flying from Taiwan, don't forget your Exit Permit.

Where to Stay: Town vs. Resort

In Town:

Semporna town has plenty of accommodation options, from capsule hostels to proper hotels. I stayed at Seafest Boutique Hotel, and I can't recommend it enough. The hot water was reliable, the air conditioning was powerful, and after a long day of diving, there's nothing better than a hot shower followed by collapsing on a cool bed before heading out for seafood.

I almost booked the Dragon Inn—it's the only hotel in town built over the water, like a mini water village. But fellow travelers warned me about inconsistent hot water. Since both hotels cost around 200–300 RMB per night, I stuck with Seafest.

On the Islands:

If you want the full resort experience, you'll need to book months in advance. The big names are:

• Kapalai Resort (where I stayed)
• Bom-Bom Island White Pearl Resort
• Mabul Island SWV Water Resort

These places require reservations at least three months ahead. Kapalai was stunning in every way except for the buffet food—which, to be honest, was pretty mediocre. More on that later.

Island Hopping: The Three Core Routes

Semporna's island-hopping day trips fall into three main categories. Here's the breakdown.

Route 1: The Marine Park Experience (Bohey Dulang, Mantabuan, Sibuan)

This route takes you through the Tun Sakaran Marine Park. It's the most relaxed option, and I'd recommend the snorkeling package here rather than diving. Why? The coral reef in this area has suffered significant damage. Vast stretches of dead, bleached coral stretch beneath the surface, and fish are sparse. It's heartbreaking to see.

The highlight of this day is the hike up Bohey Dulang Island. It's a 600-meter climb that takes about 45 minutes. The view from the top is absolutely worth the sweat—emerald water, jagged islands, and sky stretching forever. You must wear closed-toe shoes to attempt the hike. If you don't have any, you can rent rubber shoes on the island for 5 Ringgit.

This is also where you'll encounter the Bajau Laut community—often called sea gypsies. They live on stilt houses over the water, and their children will paddle out to meet your boat.

Route 2: The Diver's Choice (Mataking, Timba-Timba, Pom-Pom or Pandanan)

This is the most popular diving route. The islands are northeast of Semporna town, and the underwater scenery here is spectacular. Mataking Island has a small wreck—a sunken postal boat—that's fun to explore. Sea turtles are common in these waters. Just be aware: the currents can be strong, so you'll work a bit harder on your fin kicks.

Route 3: The Wreck Hunter's Dream (Mabul and Kapalai)

This is my personal favorite route. Kapalai sits above a massive four-story passenger shipwreck. Mabul has several smaller wrecks, plus a bizarre underwater platform with sunken motorcycles, chairs, and other oddities. The sea anemones on these wrecks are gorgeous, with clownfish (Nemo) darting in and out.

Important note: The wreck decks and seafloor here are covered in fine, easily disturbed sediment. If your buoyancy control isn't rock-solid, stay a bit higher. One kick and the visibility plummets.

Bonus: The Red Forest Escape

After several days of diving, give your body a break. Semporna offers a Mangrove River half-day tour that's wonderfully relaxing.

You'll glide through calm river channels in a small boat, spotting proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaques, white herons, and maybe even crocodiles. As dusk falls, the real magic begins: fireflies. Hundreds of them flicker along the riverbanks, and the boatman uses a purple light to lure them closer. They'll land on your hands, your shoulders, the edge of the boat.

And then there's the blue tears—bioluminescent plankton that glow when disturbed. Dip a stick in the water, and it comes out trailing liquid starlight.

Diving in Semporna: Shops, Courses, and Honest Reviews

The Dive Shop I Loved: White Pearl

If you're looking for a reliable dive shop in Semporna, go with White Pearl. Here's why:

• Equipment: Their gear is in excellent condition. Wetsuits, BCDs, regulators—everything feels well-maintained. No leaks, no malfunctions.
• Safety: The dive guides check your equipment thoroughly before every trip. They take safety seriously.
• Price: A day of fun diving costs 270 Ringgit, which is the cheapest rate in town. Other shops charge 330–350 Ringgit.
• Food: Since they operate a resort on Bom-Bom Island, lunch is a proper buffet, not a sad boxed meal.

Their shop is located near Sipadan Inn, close to Watsons. Just drop by the day before to book.

The Shop I Warn Everyone About: Sipadan Scuba

I need to be honest here. Sipadan Scuba—billed as the oldest PADI 5-star shop in town—gave me one of the most dangerous diving experiences of my life.

The equipment was a disaster. Their gear room was a sweltering closet. Wetsuits hung dripping and torn. I stopped wearing mine after the first dive because it was falling apart.

The BCDs leaked air constantly. I'd start a dive with 200 bar of air and be down to 50 bar after 20 minutes. Annoying, but not life-threatening.

Then came the real scare. At 28 meters on Mataking, my regulator started free-flowing—a sudden, violent stream of air that drains your tank in seconds. I had to share air with my dive buddy and make a controlled emergency ascent. When I surfaced and told the shop, they shrugged it off. No apology. No refund. Just a dismissive "it happens."

Do yourself a favor: avoid them.

Food in Semporna: Where to Eat

Seafood Heaven: The Night Market and Restaurants

Semporna's seafood is legendary, and the prices are a fraction of what you'd pay back home.

Fat Mother Seafood Restaurant (肥妈海鲜楼) is the most famous spot in town. Their butter prawns are incredible—creamy, slightly sweet, with a hint of curry leaf. The steamed fish with ginger and scallion is simple and perfect. Expect to pay around 50–80 Ringgit per person for a feast.

Ocean King Seafood is another solid choice. Their chili crab is messy and glorious. Don't wear white.

The Night Market (open from around 6 PM) offers grilled fish, squid, and corn on the cob. Grab a seat at one of the plastic tables, order a fresh coconut, and watch the town come alive.

What to Skip

The buffet at Kapalai Resort was disappointing. Cold rice, overcooked vegetables, and a suspicious "chicken" dish that tasted like rubber. The view from the dining deck is stunning, but the food doesn't match it.

Photography Tips for Semporna

Above Water

• Bohey Dulang viewpoint: Arrive early (before 9 AM) for the best light. The sun is harsh by mid-morning.
• Stilt villages: Shoot from the boat as you approach. The contrast between turquoise water and weathered wooden houses is stunning.
• Fireflies: Use a wide aperture (f/1.8 or wider) and a high ISO (3200+). A tripod is essential. Manual focus—autofocus won't work in the dark.

Underwater

• Wide-angle: Use a dome port if you have one. Get close to your subject to minimize backscatter.
• Macro: Semporna is famous for critters—frogfish, pygmy seahorses, nudibranchs. A 60mm or 100mm macro lens is your friend.
• Light: Bring a video light or strobe. Natural light disappears quickly below 10 meters.

Final Thoughts

Semporna isn't perfect. The coral damage in the marine park is sobering. Some dive shops cut corners. The town itself is dusty and unglamorous.

But then you descend into the blue, and a sea turtle glides past, unhurried and ancient. Or you sit on a stilt deck at dusk, watching the sky burn orange, and you remember why you came.

This place strips away the unnecessary. It leaves you with salt on your skin, sand in your hair, and a quiet certainty that some horizons are worth chasing.

Go. Dive. Eat. Dream.

Have you been to Semporna? Share your tips and stories in the comments below.