Three Days on Erhai Lake: A Slow Living Experiment by Two Procrastinators

We always say "next time," but keep pushing "next time" until it becomes "never." It wasn't until our wedding date was approaching that we realized we hadn't even planned a proper honeymoon — such is the life of two chronic procrastinators.

I'm the type who flies hundreds of thousands of miles a year for work, with only Tibet and Xinjiang left unchecked on my map of China. She, on the other hand, is sometimes an angel, sometimes a goofball — the only certainty being that you'd better not cross her when she's angry. We decided to take a spontaneous short getaway before officially stepping into the bonds of marriage. Destination: Erhai Lake.

1. Off to a Rocky Start: China Eastern's "Punctuality" and Our "Tardiness"

There's only one flight to Dali each day, departing at six in the morning, operated by China Eastern. As a seasoned "missed-flight veteran," I have a natural fear of this time slot — I've never once caught a flight scheduled before 7:30 AM.

And just as expected: China Eastern closed the cabin door two minutes early, and we were exactly two minutes late. Watching our plane taxi away from the gate, those hard-earned tickets evaporating into thin air — that feeling is one I'd rather not relive.

Luckily, experience is on my side. I quickly booked flights from Beijing to Kunming, then placed an order with Shenzhou Car Rental — pick up in Kunming, drop off at Dali Airport. That way, we could still use our return tickets and minimize the damage.

Practical Tips: - The most convenient way to reach Erhai is flying into Dali Airport, but there's only one early-morning flight daily - China Eastern's on-time performance among domestic airlines is indeed questionable; allow plenty of buffer time - The expressway from Kunming to Dali is about 350 kilometers, roughly a 4-hour drive - Renting a car offers more flexibility than hiring a driver; Shenzhou Car Rental supports one-way drop-offs (around 800 yuan)

2. Choosing Xizhou: Escaping Shuanglang's Crowds for True Tranquility

We were originally drawn to the trendy guesthouses in Shuanglang, but after some research, we discovered that Shuanglang isn't just crowded — it's also a construction zone. We decisively switched to Xizhou before leaving, a decision that later proved to be the smartest move of the entire trip.

We checked into Die Hai Yue Seaview Resort Hotel, paying over 1,500 yuan per night during peak season for a deluxe sea-view suite. Though it's called a hotel, it's small in scale and managed more like a guesthouse, but the amenities genuinely feel five-star. The biggest advantage? Few people.

The viewing deck was always empty. You could pick any corner to sit, and a staff member would bring you a complimentary cup of Pu'er tea. The balcony extends directly over the water, and the glass roof lets you lie in bed and stargaze — too bad it was overcast all three days we were there.

Why recommend Xizhou? - Ten times quieter than Shuanglang, with no noisy tourists or construction racket - Lower density of guesthouses means each one offers ample privacy - Prices are affordable, nothing like a major tourist trap - Perfect for those who love peace and truly want to unwind

3. First Impressions of Shuanglang: Half Paradise, Half Construction Site

Driving across to the opposite shore late at night to find food in Shuanglang, we discovered the chaos lurking behind its glamour. Scattered throughout the old town were a few small night markets, mostly offering barbecue — the flavor was mediocre, the ingredients not particularly fresh, everything masked by an absurdly spicy chili powder to cover up any off tastes.

The Feng Hua Xue Yue beer (Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon beer), however, is worth trying — not because it tastes better than Snow or Tsingtao, but because you're drinking the sentiment, not the flavor.

The next day, we rented a retro electric scooter and set out to explore the best part of Shuanglang — its distinctive guesthouses.

Must-Visit List: - Nuan Nuan Guesthouse (Warm Warm Guesthouse): Not waterfront, not upscale, but the service is as warm as visiting a friend's home. The steps at the entrance are a perfect photo spot, and there's a feisty white goose in the yard that likes to bite - Peninsula 63: Too famous for its own good. The stone-arched window rooms are tiny, and you have to queue for photos. Sitting on the platform outside feels like being on display - Blue Sail Mediterranean: The white swing is very photogenic, and there are few people because construction barriers block the entrance - Hai Di Life (Sea Bottom Life): The iconic white tables and chairs have been removed, replaced by colorful oil drums. With the right angle, you can still get great shots

Shuanglang truly lives up to its reputation as a "big construction site" — paradise-like guesthouses sit right next to dusty, chaotic building projects. This is a small paradise growing wildly, where noise and beauty coexist.

4. Cycling Around the Lake: The Best Scenery Is on the Road

From Xizhou to Shuanglang, the lakeside road splits into the west route and the east route. The West Lakeside Road winds through villages, narrow and disjointed, making it particularly difficult to navigate. Once you round the northern tip of Erhai and hit the East Lakeside Road, the view opens up — this is what Erhai should look like.

Scenery is everywhere along the roadside. You can't drive more than a few dozen meters without wanting to stop and take photos. At this point, the car becomes a burden — an electric scooter is the real king. Renting one in Shuanglang costs 80 yuan per day, with various styles available; the vintage models are the most photogenic.

Erhai isn't actually that big — you could circle it in less than half a day. But its beauty lies not in vastness, but in the layered interplay between the Cangshan Mountains and the lake. In September, the rice paddies begin to turn golden, patches of yellow set against the white-walled villages of the Bai ethnic group — every snapshot looks like a painting.

Cycling Tips: - Electric scooters are the best choice — flexible, free, and you can stop anytime - The northern section of the East Lakeside Road has the best views; don't miss it - Charging stations are available along the way, so range isn't an issue - Wear sunscreen — Yunnan's UV rays are no joke

5. Xizhou Old Town: The Truth About Po Su Ba Ba and the Charm of Old Houses

On our last day, we made a detour to Xizhou Old Town. It's known for its rice paddies and old houses. If you're a fan of The Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils, you should definitely visit — this is the hometown of Duan Zheng Yan, the historical inspiration for the character Duan Yu.

The legendary 喜洲破酥粑粑 (Xizhou Flaky Flatbread) comes in sweet and savory varieties, tasting pretty much like a sesame seed cake. Travel blogs had hyped it up to the skies, so we bought four. Each of us took one bite, and the rest was lugged all the way back to Beijing, where it's still sitting in our freezer.

On the other hand, the 鲜牛奶冰棍 (fresh milk popsicles) handmade by elderly locals are pure and delicious — definitely worth a try.

Most of Xizhou Old Town consists of newer buildings, with the old houses largely vacant, lacking a lived-in atmosphere. But if you prefer an authentic old town experience, Haishe Peninsula (Sea Tongue Peninsula) is worth a visit — a narrow strip of land jutting into Erhai, offering unique scenery.

6. Final Thoughts: The Meaning of Travel

Life itself is a journey, and getting married means you've found someone to walk it with. We missed our meticulously planned wedding date, but gained three days of carefree escape.

From missing our flight to renting a car, from Xizhou to Shuanglang, from electric scooters to flaky flatbreads — every unexpected turn became the most vivid part of our memories. Two procrastinators finally understood: Plans will never keep up with changes, but change itself is the best plan.

A Few Final Takeaways: 1. Erhai is made for slow living — don't rush through the sights; staying put is the real answer 2. Xizhou is far better than Shuanglang for those who love peace and quiet 3. Electric scooters are the best way to explore the lake 4. Weather forecasts are basically useless around Erhai — just go with the flow 5. Don't get your hopes up too high for the flaky flatbread

Our goal: to travel all across China, then around the world. This trip to Erhai is just the beginning.

This article is adapted from real travel experiences. All data, prices, and recommendations are based on actual conditions as of September 2014 and are for reference only.