Through My Eyes, I'll Show You Yunnan: A 9-Day Deep Dive into Lijiang, Lugu Lake, and Shangri-La

Some trips are destined to happen long before you set off. In June 2013, carrying love in my heart, I finally set foot on the land that had taken root in my soul since childhood. When I think of Yunnan, my first impression came from a Singaporean TV drama called Love in the Daughter's Village. Leon Lai's off-key rendition of Understand My Love may not have been pitch-perfect, but it planted a seed deep inside me. Years later, that seed blossomed under the sun of Lijiang.

On this journey, we had different names in different places—in Lijiang, I was Pang Jin Ge (the local term for a young man), and she was Pang Jin Mei (a young woman); at Lugu Lake, I was A Zhu, and she was A Xia; in Shangri-La, I was Zha Xi, and she was Zhuo Ma. Yunnan, we've arrived.

Pre-Trip Preparation: Things You Absolutely Need to Know

Itinerary Overview

Dates: June 13–June 21, 2013 (9 days)

Route: - Day 1–2: Wandering through Lijiang Old Town, staying at Feicuiwan Inn (Jade Bay Inn) - Day 3: Depart for Lugu Lake, stay at Lige彼岸 Inn (Lige Shore Inn) - Day 4: Circumnavigate Lugu Lake - Day 5: Return to Lijiang, stay at Huajiantang·Tingheyuan (Flower Hall·Lotus Listening Courtyard) - Day 6–7: Join a 2-day pure tour of Shangri-La, stay at Qianxi Business Hotel - Day 7: Return to Lijiang, stay at Huajiantang·Yinquan (Flower Hall·Hidden Spring) - Day 8: Lijiang leisure, visit Mu Mansion, stay at Huajiantang·Yinquan - Day 9: Fly back to Beijing

Cost Breakdown

• Flights: Beijing direct to Lijiang round trip ¥2,690 (just for me; my girlfriend used a free ticket)
• Accommodation: 7 nights at inns totaling ¥4,300
• Shangri-La 2-Day Tour: ¥880/person, ¥1,760 for two (includes one night's stay)
• Transportation: Airport transfers, Lugu Lake round trip and private car, totaling ¥690
• Meals: Approximately ¥1,500 (local prices aren't too high)
• Shopping: Scarves, Mu Mansion tickets, etc., about ¥200+

Total: Approximately ¥10,900 (for reference only; prices vary by season)

Photography Gear & Tips

Before this trip, I crammed on DSLR basics using the "Wu Shi Zi Tong" tutorial series—last-minute cramming before hitting the battlefield.

Camera Body: Canon 5D Mark III Lenses: - EF 17-40mm F4 L: Used for landscapes and Huajiantang shots (95% of the time) - Sigma 35mm 1.4: Used for street photography and portraits (95% of the time, highly recommended)

Accessories: Fotopro tripod, Pengcheng CPL filter, Hitech graduated ND filters, Haida ND64+ND1000 neutral density filters, Pinser wireless shutter release

Golden Shooting Hours: 6:00–9:30 AM and after 4:30 PM. Bright sunlight tends to overexpose shots. The advantage of shooting early is empty streets and soft light—once the sun climbs higher, head back to the inn for a nap.

Post-Processing: Adobe Lightroom + Photoshop

What to Wear & Must-Pack Items

Clothing: In Lijiang and Lugu Lake, a light jacket is needed in the morning and evening. A thick hoodie was only useful during my 5 AM photo sessions. In Shangri-La, evenings hover around 17–18°C (63–64°F), so a heavy coat is essential—I forgot mine and froze just walking out for dinner.

Absolute Must-Packs (three exclamation marks!): June in Lijiang is so dry that even a Northerner like me couldn't handle it! Humidifiers are standard in hotel rooms; if you don't use one, you'll wake up parched. Bring as much moisturizer and sheet masks as you can carry. I have oily skin, so I was okay, but my girlfriend's post-shower dryness is beyond words. Also, my craving for fruit in Lijiang was unprecedented.

Part 1: Lijiang—Playing with Light and Shadow in a Lazy Time

Wandering the Old Town: Alleys Away from the Crowds

Dayan Old Town is sizable, but I recommend a few less-crowded alleys. After crossing Wanzhi Bridge (Ten Thousand Sons Bridge), the side streets from Chongren Lane to Wuyi Street are excellent—try Zhenxing Lane, with its bars, cafés, and small shops. Strolling around Wuyi Street is far more peaceful than Sifang Street (Square Street) and great for photos.

At 6 AM, I set up my tripod and used my filters. The reflections were so obvious that most shots were ruined, but since it was my first time using filters, I kept them as souvenirs. The elderly rise early; Mu Mansion stood sharply defined under the 45-degree sunlight. With a fixed lens, zooming in and out meant moving my feet, making every frame precious.

The 7 AM sun felt like 10 AM in Beijing. All the inn doors were closed; everyone was still asleep. Huajiantang's weaving courtyard, the meditating "Wukong" (Monkey King) at the entrance, the street-corner breakfast stall—Lijiang's baba flatbread wasn't spicy but was saltily overwhelming. Just as I paid and turned, I saw a group of imposing figures passing by. I balanced my camera on my left arm and stood still until they walked through.

Moments That Moved Me

In the old town, I captured countless scenes: a solitary woman bathed in harsh morning light, a dog napping in front of a door, her just waking up, the scorching sun using the ground as a reflector, spring water said to be ancient, a craftsman and his customer, a street performer proving the authenticity of handmade scarves. Every shop had a reason to stop.

That kitten playing endlessly in front of the inn—I finally caught it standing at attention. I don't know why, but I love shooting these moments. The industrious Naxi women were deeply touching; seeing elderly grandmothers still working stirred a pang of sadness.

Mu Mansion: Is the ¥60 Ticket Worth It?

I bought Mu Mansion tickets on Taobao for ¥60 for two. At the gate, it's ¥60 per person—the Forbidden City in Beijing only costs ¥40. Inside, there's a panoramic model of Lijiang Old Town. The black marble handrails, worn smooth, bear witness to countless Golden Week crowds. The lion sculptures are well done, and I couldn't resist snapping couples in frame.

Dogs and Cats of Lijiang

If Gulangyu Island is famous for cats, Lijiang is absolutely the domain of dogs. Shop owners use them to ward off loneliness. That yellow dog—its dignity was completely shattered. And one incredibly ugly dog—its owner had quite the taste.

An Honest Take on Food

As someone who believes "food determines travel direction," I honestly didn't find anything particularly delicious in Lijiang. Smoked pork ribs, salmon, yak meat? What you eat may not be what it claims to be. On the bus to Lugu Lake, the driver asked if we'd tried the smoked ribs. Almost everyone had. He paused and said, "Where do you think all that smoked pork comes from? In the past, the good stuff was made by Naxi families themselves. Now they're better off and keep it for themselves. What you're eating—who knows where it's sourced." Back in Lijiang, we never touched it again. For authentic Yunnan cuisine, I've heard Kunming and Dali are better bets.

Lijiang Accommodation Experience

Feicuiwan Inn (Jade Bay Inn, Days 1–2): Good location—close to the Tianyu Liufang Archway and Mu Mansion, and convenient to Sifang Street. The shower had weak water pressure, but it offered good value and included free airport pickup. It scored 4.9 on Ctrip, even higher than Huajiantang, but the two aren't really comparable—take ratings with a grain of salt.

Huajiantang·Tingheyuan (Flower Hall·Lotus Listening Courtyard, Day 5): Stayed one night after returning from Lugu Lake. Since we were heading to Shangri-La the next day, I chose this branch near Zhongyi Market. Staff moved our extra luggage to the Yinquan branch—the two are diagonally opposite, and Yinquan is on Lion Mountain. I'm genuinely grateful to the staff who carried everything. We left too early for breakfast the next day, so they packed meals for us to take on the road. The service was impeccable.

Huajiantang·Yinquan (Flower Hall·Hidden Spring, Days 7–9): Perched on Lion Mountain, this is among the best of the Huajiantang inns (excluding Wenyun Villa). We booked the semi-mountain ring-window city-view room, which was once stayed in by Xiao Peng, author of Ten Years with a Backpack. It's not available on Ctrip or eLong—only through Huajiantang's Taobao store. There was a minor hiccup, but it turned into a pleasant surprise. The innkeeper, Xiao Hu, proactively adjusted the room assignment and got us the room we wanted.

We arrived just in time for the weekly barbecue party. Strangers sat together, chatting and grilling. The next morning, the view overlooking Lijiang Old Town was incredible. At Yinquan, you could stay indoors for half a day and never feel bored.

Part 2: Lugu Lake—The Mosuo Kingdom of Women

Note: The original article had less content on Lugu Lake, but as a key destination, here's essential information.

The drive from Lijiang to Lugu Lake takes about 4–5 hours. The mountain roads are winding, but the scenery is breathtaking. We stayed at Lige彼岸 Inn (Lige Shore Inn), with a lake view right outside the window. Cycling or hiring a car to circumnavigate the lake is a must. The sunset at Goddess Bay, the Walking Marriage Bridge over the reeds, and the morning mist over Lige Peninsula—every frame looks like a painting.

The Mosuo people preserve matrilineal traditions, and their walking marriage custom is both fascinating and awe-inspiring. Here, I was A Zhu, and she was A Xia.

Part 3: Shangri-La—The Place Closest to Heaven

We joined the "Lvyouquan" (Traveler's Circle) 2-day pure tour of Shangri-La for ¥880/person. The alpine lakes and meadows of Potatso National Park, the golden rooftops of Songzanlin Monastery, and the giant prayer wheel in Dukezong Old Town—every place inspires reverence.

We stayed at Qianxi Business Hotel. The evening temperature of 17–18°C (63–64°F) made me regret not bringing a heavy coat. I stepped out for dinner just around the corner and got properly chilled.

On the way back to Lijiang, the bus broke down. We were supposed to arrive around 3:30 PM but didn't get in until after 6 PM. But those little hiccups on the road—they later become the best stories.

Final Thoughts: Things Worth Remembering

1. Don't trust Ctrip ratings for inns: Innkeepers can negotiate with Ctrip to remove negative reviews. Look up information on Mafengwo instead.

2. Shop at Zhongyi Market: The Baixin Supermarket near the Big Waterwheel charges much higher prices—it's tourist-oriented. The supermarket outside Zhongyi Market has fair prices.

3. Dryness is your worst enemy: Humidifier, moisturizer, sheet masks, fruit—don't skimp on any of them.

4. Early mornings are a photographer's secret: The light and emptiness from 6–9 AM are worth giving up your sleep-in.

5. Don't expect too much from the food: Lijiang is a tourist destination; everything exists for a reason. For authentic Yunnan flavors, head to Kunming and Dali.

This trip wasn't just about taking photos with our cameras. What we brought to our photography were all the books we'd read, the movies we'd watched, the music we'd listened to, and the person we loved. Through my eyes, I showed you Yunnan—I hope you find your own landscape too.