Traveling with My Bestie｜Third Time in Dali, First Time Riding a Double-Decker Train to Erhai Lake!

Life is like an unknown adventure—you never know what surprises await at the next stop. In April 2021, my bestie Liu Liu and I set foot on Dali's soil for the third time, but this time, we unlocked a brand-new way to travel—lying in a bed on China's first double-decker train with a big-bed room, watching Erhai Lake drift slowly past the window.

This isn't your average travelogue. It's the real story of two Sichuan girls who quit their jobs and put "the life we yearn for" into action. From urban office workers to village dwellers, from ticking off tourist spots to savoring slow moments, we want to tell you: there's no standard answer in life. Be brave enough to start, and the answers will reveal themselves.

Cheche and Liu Liu: The "Twin" Lives of Two Besties Who Quit Their Jobs

Let's introduce ourselves first—I'm Cheche (the one with bangs), and she's Liu Liu (the one without). We're true-blue Sichuan girls. After graduating from university and working for seven years, we both quit our jobs in 2020 and jumped into "the life we yearn for."

A lot of people ask us how we dared to be so reckless. The answer is simple: we're just too compatible. Our birthdays are close, our backgrounds are similar, and our personalities click like twins. In 2014, during our senior year internship, we met by chance—going from online friends to roommates, from roommates to besties, and finally becoming each other's most important "other self."

Over the years, we've done so many crazy things together—seeing the blue of Sayram Lake in Xinjiang, waiting for golden autumn leaves in Hemu, having snowball fights in Kanas's snowy wonderland, escaping the awkwardness of "being urged to marry" in Xishuangbanna's summer, laughing until we couldn't breathe at a comedy show in Chongqing, downing eight cups of Sexy Tea in Changsha in 24 hours, and watching a romantic sunset in Sanya…

But what we're most proud of is that after our Xinjiang trip in 2020, we made a bold decision: quit our jobs, rent a house in the countryside, and live a pastoral life for a while.

4,000 RMB for 10 Years: Our "Since We're Here" Courtyard

Many thought we were joking, but we were serious. After scouring nearby villages, we finally found our dream home—a courtyard with two yards. The inner yard is perfect for sipping tea and chatting, while the outer yard is ideal for sunbathing and daydreaming. The house has three rooms: Liu Liu and I each took one, and the other was turned into a studio.

The most unbelievable part? The price: 4,000 RMB per year, with a 10-year lease. Since the house had been vacant for a long time, we spent two months renovating it. Except for knocking down walls and painting, which we hired workers for, we did everything ourselves. From shabby to cozy, every inch of change held our sweat and hopes.

Every morning, pushing open the gate, we'd see a lush green field stretching before us—our mood instantly brightened (though the mosquitoes were indeed plentiful). Here, with fewer of the city's distractions, we focused more on what we love—shooting videos, writing articles, planting flowers, cooking… Time became free, but self-discipline became a must.

This is our "Since We're Here" courtyard—a place full of laughter and dreams.

Watching Erhai Lake from a Double-Decker Train: A Surprise from Liu Liu

Life needs rituals and sudden surprises. While renovating the garden, I stumbled upon a video of someone taking a train to Dali and casually said, "I'd love to try that." Liu Liu remembered. She secretly waited for tickets and snagged two—on China's first double-decker train with a bar and big-bed rooms, running from Lijiang to Dali.

Online, this train is hyped up as a gimmick. But what's it really like? Let me break it down for you.

How to Buy Tickets?

Search for "一人软包 (single soft sleeper)" on 12306. The ticket price is 328 RMB. Note: one person buys the ticket, and through the manual gate, you can bring two people on board—so it averages out to just over 100 RMB per person. Only two trains run daily from Lijiang to Dali, departing at 7:10 AM and 1:20 PM. Each train sells only about eight such tickets, so grab them early if you want to try!

What's the Car Like?

• Car 1: The bar. You can order fruit platters, juice, and beer. When the train enters a tunnel, the neon lights flicker on, and with old songs playing, the vibe is instantly elevated.
• Car 2: The dining car.
• Car 3: This is the double-decker compartment we were in.

Honestly, the bar and dining car offer better views than the compartment—they're more thrilling for sightseeing. Whether you can see Erhai Lake from your compartment is pure luck: the train's direction can change anytime. Whether you're going from Lijiang to Dali or Dali to Lijiang, check the map as soon as you board to confirm which side of your compartment Erhai Lake is on.

Is It Worth It?

Many think spending over 300 RMB for a two-hour train ride isn't worth it—most of the journey is through tunnels, with only a few minutes of Erhai Lake views. But from our experience, it was totally worth it! When tunnels were frequent, we'd turn on our phone flashlights, blast music, and party. That feeling of going wild with your bestie was more unforgettable than the scenery itself.

Dali on 3,000 RMB Per Person: Sisters Together, Double the Joy

Dali is a place that doesn't need a guide. Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake are right there—you just need to relax. Our six-day itinerary was simple:

• DAY 1: Chengdu → Lijiang (by plane), Lijiang → Dali (by double-decker train)
• DAY 2: Shuanglang Ancient Town
• DAY 3: Self-driving along the East Ring Road
• DAY 4: Xizhou Ancient Town
• DAY 5: Dali Ancient Town
• DAY 6: Dali → Chengdu

Every morning, we'd wake up naturally, head to the market for snacks and fruit, and slowly cruise along the East Ring Road in our little yellow car. When we found a nice empty spot, we'd lay out a picnic mat, face Cangshan and Erhai, and wait for a pink-purple sunset—that feeling was more healing than any attraction.

Hidden Gems Recommended by Friends

• Xun Guang Farm: A one-stop spot for coffee, camping, picnics, and farming
• Wulongba Meadow: A小众 (off-the-beaten-path) camping spot, great for an overnight stay
• Zhoucheng Village: Try the tie-dye craft (扎染, zharan)
• Haidong Town: Perfect for sunset views
• Caicun Village: Wake up early for sunrise
• Xizhou Ancient Town: Wheat fields are stunning for photos

Travel Tips

1. For pastoral views, head to the west side of Erhai Lake; for lake views, go to the east side.
2. Drive clockwise around the lake—you'll stay close to the water, and the east side is more beautiful than the west.
3. Xizhou's wheat fields in yellow and green offer different vibes; visit in different seasons for surprises.

Food Recommendations

• Shuanglang Corner Time Garden Restaurant: Try the 鸡丝凉米线 (cold rice noodles with shredded chicken), 薄荷炸排骨 (deep-fried spare ribs with mint), 汽锅鸡 (steam pot chicken), and 玫瑰酱酸奶 (rose sauce yogurt).
• Dafugui BBQ: Their 手抓饭 (hand-grabbed rice) is a standout.
• The innkeeper also recommended 杨小厨 (Yang's Kitchen), 白族私房菜 (Bai ethnic home-style dishes), 白族烧烤 (Bai ethnic BBQ), 海恋食府 (Hailian Restaurant), and 锅里花园餐厅 (Pot Garden Restaurant)—definitely trying them next time!

The Future Beckons: Be Brave and Be Yourself

The future is unknown, but we both hope to live each day to the fullest. Seize the chance to do what you love, go where you want, and bravely welcome every tomorrow.

This Dali trip had no deliberate plans, yet it brought the most genuine joy. The double-decker train, the sunset over Erhai Lake, the laughter of my bestie—these moments are more precious than any guide.

If you're hesitating about setting off, my advice is: stop thinking, just go. Life won't wait for you to be ready before surprising you. Take that first brave step, and leave the rest to time.

Cheche and Liu Liu's Travel Notes: - The double-decker train's "single soft sleeper" ticket costs 328 RMB and can bring two people, averaging 100+ RMB per person - Two trains daily; grab tickets early - No need for a Dali guide—just relax - Traveling with a bestie doubles the joy

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