#Wandering Travel Contest# May You Have Someone to Accompany You Through All the Ups and Downs, May You Have Someone to Watch the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake with You — A Yunnan Journey of Two Girls

Before We Set Off: Some Friendships Can't Be Defeated by Time

Have you ever had a friend like this? You don't talk often, but when you meet, you can chat forever. You think she's just a regular colleague, but after one meal together, she becomes your spontaneous travel buddy.

That's how Danqi and I are.

In October 2014, two girls, 9 days, an average cost of 4,500 yuan per person. We started from Shenzhen and headed west to Yunnan. No professional photography equipment — just a borrowed Panasonic mirrorless camera and two lenses. No perfect travel plan — just a heart ready to go at a moment's notice. But this very journey forged what we call "a deep friendship where we can curse at each other."

Some say travel is the ultimate test of friendship. I'd say that if you can go through all kinds of hardships with someone and still laugh about it later, that's probably a true friend.

Pre-Trip Preparation: Things You Might Want to Know

About the Budget

The two of us spent about 4,500 yuan each. Traveling in the off-season (November) meant cheap hotels, fewer crowds, and great value for money.

About Photography

The camera was a Panasonic mirrorless borrowed from a colleague — I can't even remember the model anymore, it was quite old. The two lenses were borrowed from two different colleagues who also used mirrorless cameras: one 35mm prime lens and one 7-14mm ultra-wide-angle lens (equivalent to 14-28mm in full-frame). All photos were edited in Photoshop — as the saying goes, a photographer who can't use Photoshop isn't a real tourist.

About Accommodation

• Dali: Old Story Inn (approx. 129 yuan/night)
• Caicun Village: Zhaolanxiyue (approx. 280 yuan/night, sea-view room)
• Shuhe Old Town: Shuhe Jiaye Guild Hall (approx. 149 yuan/night)

A Little Plant Correction

I originally wrote that the flowers at the entrance were "azaleas," but they were actually "bougainvillea" (also known as triangle plum). Thanks to a careful reader for correcting me. Danqi said I ruined her reputation as a "flower fanatic." Haha.

Day 1: Shenzhen → Kunming → Dali, the Sky Got Bluer and Bluer

November 2nd. We got up at 4:30 a.m., two tough girls dragging our suitcases to the taxi and heading to Shenzhen Airport. We had breakfast at KFC — every time I go to the airport, KFC is the only thing I can afford. Not even a bowl of noodles.

After landing in Kunming, we took a bus straight to Dali. Along the way, the sky gradually changed from gray to an increasingly vivid blue, as if we had entered a different world. In just a few hours of driving, we went from gloom to clear, endless sunshine.

When we arrived in Dali, the innkeeper picked us up. Old Story Inn, 129 yuan a night. The room itself was average, but the overall atmosphere of the inn was fantastic. At night, they even projected old movies like Liu Sanjie (a classic Chinese film) onto the wall. The pavilions and courtyards had a kind of unpretentious beauty.

Danqi said I had found "great value for money" with this trip's accommodation, and I thought my judgment was pretty good too.

Day 2: Dali Old Town → Caicun Village, Slow Time by Erhai Lake

The daytime sky was incredibly beautiful. After wandering around the old town for the morning, we set off for Caicun Village.

We had originally planned to go to Shuanglang, but after reading travel guides saying it was under heavy construction with lots of dust, we chose the less-developed Caicun instead. We wanted to see a more pristine Erhai Lake.

The Zhaolanxiyue Inn was right by the lake. A sea-view room for 280 yuan a night. The balcony was directly above the water, and it felt like part of the building was built over the lake — an incredible deal!

The Obsession of a Foodie

The grilled pig trotters by the roadside were the most unforgettable food of our entire trip. How good were they? The next day, we cycled all the way from Caicun back to Dali Old Town just to eat them again — our foodie nature was completely exposed.

The Daily Life of Tough Girls

On the way to Caicun, the driver refused to take a detour, so we had to drag our suitcases uphill ourselves. When we reached the inn, two handsome guys from the staff offered to help carry our bags. Danqi said, "No need, I've got it," and then hoisted her suitcase with one hand and swung it over — her posture was incredibly cool. I silently handed my suitcase to the guys and decided to play the delicate lady for once.

Boating on Erhai Lake

There was a small dock next to the inn, almost deserted. Rowing a boat for two people cost only 50 yuan. In the middle of the lake, there was a wooden plank balanced on some branches. The boatman said we could climb up and take photos. Without hesitation, we two tough girls climbed up and posed, wobbling all over the place.

Cycling Around the Lake

I insisted on renting an electric scooter, but Danqi stubbornly wanted a bicycle. It turned out I was right — when we hit the uphill slopes, her bike was impossible to pedal. We ended up locking her bike in the old town and riding the electric scooter together back to the inn. That night, we bumped along for nearly an hour before getting back.

The Sunrise Fiasco

We had no tripod and hadn't checked the sunrise time. We got up at 5 a.m. to photograph the sunrise, freezing like dogs. We later found out that the sun doesn't rise there until almost 7 a.m. I wrapped myself in a blanket and went out to the balcony, holding the camera with my hands. I was really pushing myself.

Day 3: Shuanglang → Shuhe, from Disappointment to Surprise

I didn't have a good impression of Shuanglang — everywhere was under construction, crowded and chaotic. We decided to just take a quick look and leave, not even staying overnight. Except for a few selfies, we barely took any photos. We bought some postcards, which I still haven't mailed to this day.

Around 5 p.m., we arrived at the Shuhe Jiaye Guild Hall in Shuhe Old Town. At 149 yuan a night in the off-season, the environment was so good it was almost eerie. The manager, a guy named Stone, was incredibly nice. He even sent us small gifts later on.

That night, besides Stone, there were five female guests: a mother and daughter, a young mother traveling alone, and Danqi and me. The only "male" around was Stone's dog, named Winter Solstice, who kept licking all the pretty girls with his drool.

In the evening, everyone gathered around to drink tea and chat. The inn had a full set of tea ware — the owner clearly had good taste. There was a lounge, a tea room, a billiard room, a media room, a guitar, a zither, a piano, mahjong, and a bar. I kept marveling at my own luck — how could I be staying in such a nice place for so little money?

Day 4: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the Surprise of Blue Moon Valley

In the morning, we shared a chartered car with a few others from the inn to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Stone helped us arrange the driver, and everything went smoothly.

Blue Moon Valley, at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, was a stunning surprise. The lake water was as colorful as Jiuzhaigou — deep shades of blue-green. In short — it was breathtakingly beautiful.

We came down from the mountain around 2 or 3 p.m., and the driver took us to Dayan Old Town. I have to say, I had zero interest in it — it was nothing but shops. We had dinner, bought an ice cream, and quickly left.

Back at the inn that night, Stone was knitting a sweater and chatting. He kept losing track of his stitches, then unraveling them and starting over. It was adorable.

Day 5: Shuhe → Lugu Lake, a Bumpy Ride

We got up at around 4 a.m. to leave. The moon was big and bright, and we walked by its light. Stone came out to see us off, and Winter Solstice followed too, walking with us all the way to the pickup point — a 20-minute walk. Such a good dog.

The journey to Lugu Lake was a nightmare. The driver kept talking on the phone and texting while swerving wildly. The five-hour ride was punctuated by stops every hour or two so everyone could get out and throw up. We'd all vomit together, then get back in the car for more swerving. I also had diarrhea, so the whole time I was just waiting for the next stop to vomit or find a toilet.

We arrived at the inn around noon. It was the most expensive accommodation of the trip, 300 yuan a night. The environment was nice — a second-floor room facing the lake.

Ctrip Customer Service's Heartwarming Move

I had booked through Ctrip for 360 yuan, but when we got there, the actual price was only 300 yuan. I called to complain. The customer service agent immediately checked the situation, even pretended to be a guest booking a room to negotiate the price, and after confirming the discrepancy, refunded the difference unconditionally and gave me bonus points. Very thoughtful.

The Bonfire Party

That evening, we attended a bonfire party. For 100 yuan, it included afternoon tea and dinner. The local chicken was generous, and they explained Mosuo traditional culture and their "walking marriage" customs — quite interesting. But then it suddenly turned into a sales pitch for silver jewelry, which we didn't buy.

I had a headache all day and was vomiting and having diarrhea. During the activities, I felt like I was dying. But when I saw the tall, handsome Mosuo guys in front doing their dance, looking quite sexy, Danqi and I — both sick and feverish — held hands and squeezed in between two of them. Two fujoshi (腐女, a Chinese term for women who enjoy male-male romantic dynamics), haha.

Day 6: Lugu Lake, Warmth in the Midst of Sickness

That night, I started running a fever. Vomiting and diarrhea all night long. I don't know if it was altitude sickness, but I felt like I was dying. These were the most miserable days of the trip — no makeup, no photos of myself, only landscapes.

The only photo of a person was a shot of Danqi's back, wearing thick clothes and a hat.

Danqi and I rode an electric scooter from Daluoshui to Lige. We stopped at a roast pig stand to eat and ran into the group of people who had been singing the night before. Everyone sat together for a meal and played "Charades" until late. That day happened to be the Beginning of Winter (立冬, a traditional Chinese solar term). Spending the holiday with a group of strangers away from home felt really nice.

The roast pig owner saw us struggling to take selfies and insisted on taking group photos for us. We couldn't refuse even if we wanted to.

Day 7: Lugu Lake → Shuhe, the Feeling of Coming Home

The thought of enduring another long, bumpy ride back to Lijiang was terrifying. In the morning, the sky was covered with dark clouds. I took a few quick shots with my phone.

When we returned to the Shuhe Jiaye Guild Hall, it felt like coming home. The first thing I did was take a long, long shower — I felt like I had almost died in Lugu Lake.

That night, we went to a small bar called "Early Morning." The owner said he opened at night and closed in the morning, then went to sleep. During the off-season, he was alone every day, staying until dawn, then closing up and sleeping — it seemed kind of lonely.

Two drinks cost 80 yuan. The owner didn't have change for a 20, so he only charged us 50. We promised to come back the next night for another drink, but we never did. I still feel a bit bad about it.

Day 8: Shuhe, the Last Slow Moments

On the last day, we wrote postcards and strolled around slowly. Finally clean and presentable, I dared to appear in photos again.

The Shuhe Jiaye Guild Hall was full of charm and beauty. Although I forgot to take photos of the room, the atmosphere is something I'll never forget.

In the End: May You Have Someone to Accompany You Through All the Ups and Downs

Some friendships are like monsters that time can't defeat. But even so, we can no longer be together all the time or stay in constant contact like before.

I only hope you are doing well — as well as you look in your photos. I hope everything goes smoothly for you — as smoothly as you once dreamed. I hope someone is there to accompany you through the hardships — as you have always been waiting for. When we meet again someday, we'll toast to the silly things we did and the memories we share.

There are always moments when you stop believing. But deep down, you still search for something. And then you go ahead and wait and try anyway. In every process of searching, there are so many things beyond your control. No one knows whether tomorrow will be heaven or hell. The only thing you can do is to work hard right now. If you can't outrun time, then outrun the person you were yesterday.

Don't be afraid of the darkness, because there is light in your heart.

May you have someone to accompany you through all the ups and downs. May you have someone to watch the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake with you.

Practical Tips

1. Best Travel Time: October to November. Off-season means fewer crowds and cheaper hotels.
2. Essential Items: Sunscreen, lip balm (Yunnan's climate is very dry), and common medications (especially stomach medicine).
3. Transportation Tips: From Kunming to Dali, you can take a bus (about 4-5 hours). The road from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is very bumpy — bring motion sickness medicine.
4. Accommodation Choices: Caicun Village is more rustic than Shuanglang. Shuhe Old Town is quieter than Dayan Old Town.
5. Photography Gear: A wide-angle lens for landscapes, a prime lens for portraits, and a tripod for sunrise shots.
6. Money-Saving Tricks: Booking directly with the innkeeper is often cheaper than using online platforms. Don't be afraid to negotiate the price.

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