Yubeng: A Pilgrimage Trek That Brushes Against Paradise

Five years ago, I first saw Yubeng in a documentary—that village hidden deep within the Meili Snow Mountains, like a pearl forgotten in the mortal world. I told myself I had to go. But fate loves to play tricks. Somehow, I ended up in Xinjiang instead, wandering that vast land for two months, taking countless photos I thought were precious. Then my camera was stolen. I cried on the train for an entire day, until no tears were left, and finally understood that some things are simply not meant to stay.

But Yubeng became a thorn in my heart that I couldn't pull out.

Five years later, I finally set foot on this belated path. I brought my best friend, a drone, a reckless courage, and a deep respect for the unknown. I call this journey "Return from Hell"—not because the scenery wasn't beautiful enough, but because it was so beautiful that people willingly endured the torment.

Departure: A Long-Planned Impulse

November 28, 2017. Chengdu Shuangliu Airport. Da P and I stood at the boarding gate, still clutching unfinished breakfast in our hands. The loudspeaker urged us to board. We looked at each other, stuffed the last bites into our mouths, and sprinted.

"What's it like flying for the first time?" I asked Da P.

"The takeoff was incredible! But... why won't the flight attendant let me open the window? I feel a bit stuffy."

I rolled my eyes. "Kid, go to sleep."

The origin of this trip was actually a gaming session on Double Eleven night. I was playing a team battle while messaging: "Da P, let's go to Yubeng. I've already bought the tickets."

"I don't even have money. How can I go?"

"To shoot a video. The last video of the year."

"Alright, alright. You're just trying to trick me into slave labor again."

And so, two men, one backpack, a plane ticket—and a spontaneous journey began.

Shangri-La: The First Bite of Plateau Air

When the plane landed in Shangri-La, it was already night. The plateau wind cut like a knife across my face. I shivered, flagged down a taxi.

"Driver, do you know where the Bo'ai Hospital is?"

"I know." The driver gave me a knowing look, stepped on the gas, and ten minutes later slammed the brakes in front of the hospital.

Paid, slammed the door, walked off. Shangri-La's night was so cold it made my head ache. I found a random restaurant, ate quickly, and retreated to my hotel to sleep.

The next morning at 8 a.m., it was minus three degrees Celsius. Wrapped in down jackets like two penguins, we discovered at the bus station that neither of us had brought change. The bus was leaving in ten minutes. We exchanged a glance, dashed out of the station, ran to an ATM, grabbed cash, and sprinted back to buy tickets. Finally, we boarded the legendary bus that supposedly took "six hours to reach Deqin."

It took four hours.

"People are getting rich—they've built roads!" I exclaimed to the snowy mountains outside. Along the way, I slept, woke up, occasionally gazed at the scenery, and answered a couple of phone calls. My phone died before we reached our destination. Four hours felt endless enough to drive you crazy.

When we arrived in Deqin, the driver, seeing we were the only two heading to Feilai Temple, tricked us: "The next bus will come in about an hour."

We believed him. We waited at the station for over two hours. No bus. No driver. In the end, we had to pay 40 yuan for a taxi to Feilai Temple.

Feilai Temple: Waiting for a Golden Sunrise Over the Mountains

At 4:50 p.m., we arrived at Feilai Temple. The observation deck ticket was 60 yuan per person. We glanced at the balconies of nearby hotels—180-degree panoramic view, directly facing the Meili Snow Mountains, only 160 yuan a night. Perfect! We immediately booked a standard room with a view.

On the winter plateau, you can experience all four seasons in a single day. When the sun was out, it felt warm as spring. The moment it set, the northwest wind made you question your existence. I touched my newly purchased thermal pants and thought: These must be fake.

In the evening, we visited Feilai Temple. At the entrance stood a row of prayer wheels, gleaming under the setting sun. I finished the Hongjinlong cigarette Da P handed me, ate the Wangwang Snow Cake from my pocket, and only then strolled in slowly. The lamas inside didn't really like Han Chinese coming in to kneel and pray, but they were unusually tolerant with me. Not only did they let me burn incense, but one lama also chanted a section of Tibetan scripture for me. I imitated the Tibetan pilgrims and prostrated three times.

Coming out of the temple, the sky was darkening. The snow mountains across from us were painted gold by the sunset, but the clouds never parted. We sat on the hotel balcony, eating a hotpot chicken soup with local herbs, sipping wine, watching the fiery clouds gradually fade.

"Come on, bottoms up! Then let's go out and shoot the stars!"

And then Da P ran back to bed and fell asleep. I went alone, in sub-zero temperatures, wearing only my down jacket, waiting for the stars. I watched the small waterfall beside me slowly freeze solid, pressed the shutter, and captured a shooting star streaking across the sky above Kawagebo Peak.

The Trek Begins: The Distance from Heaven to Hell

The next morning at 7:50 a.m., I set up my camera on the balcony, waiting for the golden sunrise. When the first ray of sunlight touched the summit of Kawagebo, an inexplicable wave of emotion surged through me. The snow mountain, once pale and lifeless, became extraordinary because of that golden light. God said, "Let there be light," and there was light.

After breakfast, we packed our bags. As usual, I dropped something. Then we climbed into our hired driver's Wuling minivan. He took the S-curves at full speed, never touching the brakes, heading straight for the Nongnong parking lot.

Before we left, everyone told me Yubeng accepted Alipay and WeChat Pay. I naively believed them and only brought 100 yuan in cash. That turned out to be my biggest regret.

10:30 a.m., clear skies. We set off.

The path through the Nongnong Valley was half cliff, half precipice. The beginning was easy—we walked, took photos, flew the drone, having the time of our lives. What took others half an hour to cover, we spent two hours on.

After two hours, the flat road ended. The Lancang River turned into the Yubeng River. On one side, lush trees; on the other, bare and barren like the Gobi Desert in the northwest. I had a feeling the road ahead wouldn't be kind.

Sure enough, the endless uphill began. The altitude kept rising, and our heavy equipment became the burden we most wanted to throw away.

At 1 p.m., we reached the Secret Realm Nongnong Inn. The owner said, "Three more hours."

I was crushed.

Yubeng Village: Every Bit of Suffering Was Worth It

Six hours later, I finally stood at the entrance of Yubeng Village.

In that moment, I suddenly understood why so many people say, "If you can't go to heaven, go to Yubeng." Every bit of suffering was worth it.

The village is hidden deep in the snow mountains, connected to the outside world only by horse caravans, mules, and donkeys. All supplies are carried in by these animals. Our visit, perhaps, was an intrusion into this peaceful paradise.

On the way from Upper Yubeng Village to the Ice Lake and Base Camp, I came across a conversation written by the innkeeper: "There are only two places in the world: heaven and Yubeng. Either go to heaven, or go to Yubeng. Since we can't go to heaven, we can only go to Yubeng."

The Ice Lake: Hope, Then Disappointment

The next day, we set out for the Ice Lake with two 60-year-old uncles.

From Lower Yubeng to Upper Yubeng—only one kilometer—but it took us an hour. Then came downhill, uphill, uphill, uphill, and more uphill.

"I don't want to climb anymore," Da P said.

"Neither do I, but just hold on," I replied.

The closer we got to the snow mountain, the colder it became. Our thermoses ran out of hot water, and we had to quench our thirst with the year-round icicles along the trail. General Peak was right in front of us, less than two kilometers as the crow flies, but it took us three hours to reach.

At an altitude of 4,065 meters, when despair crept into your heart, you still had to push on.

But when I finally arrived at the Ice Lake, there was no joy of victory. Everything felt flat, even disappointing. I had painstakingly carried my drone all the way to the Ice Lake, but due to signal loss more than a dozen times, I never managed to capture the clearest image of the thousand-year blue ice.

On the way back, I walked with disappointment and tears. When I turned around to take one last look at General Peak, the snow no longer held any allure for me.

Songzanlin Monastery: The Inevitable Fate

After leaving Yubeng, I went to Songzanlin Monastery. I sat in the square, basking in the sun, watching the chanting lamas and the prostrating pilgrims. Suddenly, I understood—everything had already been predestined.

Perhaps the shooting star I saw over Kawagebo Peak was the greatest gift heaven could give me.

Epilogue: Some Places, You Will Go

In six days, I resolved a five-year knot in my heart.

Chengdu—Shangri-La—Feilai Temple—Nongnong—Lower Yubeng Village—Upper Yubeng Village—Base Camp—Ice Lake—Lower Yubeng Village—Shangri-La—Songzanlin Monastery—Chengdu.

Some places, you will go, no matter how long it takes. Just like chasing dreams.

Yubeng is not heaven. It's more real than heaven. It won't give you perfect scenery, but it will give you unforgettable memories. If you want to go, remember: bring more cash, bring fewer expectations. Because the real surprises are always hidden behind the deepest despair.

Tips: - Best season: November to March. Clear skies, good chance of seeing the golden sunrise over the snow mountains. - Essential gear: Trekking poles, warm clothing, cash (poor signal in the village, no mobile payment). - Trekking time: Nongnong to Yubeng: about 6–8 hours. Yubeng to Ice Lake and back: about 8–12 hours. - Accommodation: Recommended to stay in Upper Yubeng Village for easy access to Ice Lake and Base Camp. - Note: Watch out for altitude sickness, black ice, and getting lost. Always travel with companions.

Finally, a quote for you:

"There are only two places in the world: heaven and Yubeng. Either go to heaven, or go to Yubeng. Since we can't go to heaven, we can only go to Yubeng."