Yunnan's Colorful Clouds 💕 Better to Chase the Wind Than Wait for It: A Ten-Day Healing Slow Journey Through Yunnan

Prologue: When "Chasing the Wind" Became Our Shared Promise

"Better to chase the wind than wait for it." This phrase became our group of eight's travel motto before we even set off. On August 15, 2025, as the first rays of morning light touched the runway at Dalian Zhoushuizi International Airport, three families—eight people in total—boarded this long-awaited journey with boundless anticipation for Yunnan.

Before leaving, I re-watched Meet Yourself (去有风的地方), and its screen full of healing imagery only deepened my longing for Yunnan. Blue skies, wheat fields, ancient alleyways, Erhai Lake... every frame seemed to be calling to us. This trip wasn't just about seeing sights—it was about experiencing a slower pace of life.

Pre-Trip Preparations: Sunscreen, Medicine, and a Relaxed Heart

Booking flights and accommodations in advance, stuffing toiletries into suitcases, and picking out a few pretty floral dresses—this is every woman's pre-departure ritual. But for a Yunnan trip, one thing is absolutely non-negotiable: Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Sunscreen! The ultraviolet rays on the plateau are no joke—even on cloudy days, they can leave you with a "plateau red" complexion.

Also, stock up on common medications. Among our group of eight, some experienced altitude sickness, others had stomach issues—health problems on the road are common. Fever reducers, anti-diarrhea meds, band-aids, motion sickness patches... better to bring too much than too little.

Day 1: On the Road, Chasing the Wind

The Airport Trio's Quirky Combination

My daughter Mili, my colleague's kids Dingding and Dangdang—the moment the three children met at the airport, the joy of the trip had already begun. Dangdang is half a year older than Mili and is in the phase of being utterly smitten with her. My colleague joked that this trip was "a mother-in-law accompanying her son on a thousand-mile wife-chasing journey," which had us all roaring with laughter.

Flights from Dalian to Yunnan aren't cheap. After comparing options repeatedly, we chose the best route: fly from Dalian to Kunming, with a one-hour stopover in Shiyan, then transfer to a high-speed train to Dali. Although the takeoff was slightly delayed, it didn't dampen anyone's spirits—after all, better to chase the wind than wait for it; every moment on the road is part of the scenery.

From the "Bloated Bread" to First Glimpse of Erhai Lake

After landing in Kunming, the airport taxi sped toward the high-speed rail station. But Kunming's traffic was so frustratingly congested that Mili kept complaining of dizziness and nausea—we just had to let her tough it out. At the station, looking at our bag of bread that had puffed up like a balloon, we couldn't help but marvel: physics is so直观!

Dali, we finally made it.

It was much cooler here than we'd imagined. Though it was the rainy season, we were lucky—most of the time it was overcast, with only occasional rain. Our accommodation at the Erhai Tianyu International Apartment was a high-floor penthouse facing the lake. Opening the window revealed Erhai Lake—the view was absolutely stunning.

For our first dinner, we had to try the local mushrooms. There was a trendy restaurant right next to our apartment. We ordered pan-seared matsutake—just over ten slices cost over 100 yuan, grilled on the spot by the chef, full of ceremony. To be honest, though, the taste wasn't as amazing as expected, and the seasoning didn't quite suit our palates. But when traveling, it's all about the "emotional value"—it's enough to have experienced it.

Day 2: Erhai Isn't a Sea, Xizhou Isn't an Island

Cycling at Longkan Pier

Waking up after ten every morning—that's the real vacation rhythm. After a bowl of authentic rice noodles, we took a taxi from Erhai Park to Longkan Pier, rented a few bicycles and electric scooters, and cycled along the lakeshore.

I hadn't fully recovered from last year's fracture surgery, so I couldn't ride—I could only watch the others enjoy the cycling joy. But strolling along Erhai, stopping now and then, gazing at the blue sky and green grass, listening to the wind and birds—my heart was already bubbling with happiness.

Right after a photographer left, we quickly grabbed a prime photo spot and snapped away. My colleague had planned matching outfits for the girls and mother-daughter sets in advance, and they looked especially photogenic in this weather. The sky here is blue, the grass is green, the air is sweet—any color of clothing looks good.

Xizhou Ancient Town: Commercialization Meets Countryside

From Longkan Pier, we hired a car for 500 yuan until evening, stopping whenever we wanted—super convenient for our group with both elderly and children. But honestly, Xizhou Ancient Town was our least favorite among all the ancient towns we visited in Yunnan—too commercialized, narrow streets packed with people, having to fight for photo spots.

Still, the lush green rice fields were a sight for sore eyes. Though we couldn't ride the little train through the fields (the queue was way too long), my best friend and I, during a bathroom break for the kids, dashed into the fields and snapped a few shots. When Mili found us later, she also fell in love with this vibrant green patch.

An Unexpected Delight: Tie-Dye Experience

Leaving Xizhou, we were caught in the rain again, but our driver recommended a tie-dye shop, away from the crowds of the ancient town. The boys dyed T-shirts for 79 yuan each; Mili chose a dress for 129 yuan; my best friend dyed one too. The service was excellent throughout, and the finished products were stunning! Mili's dress got plenty of wear back in Dalian afterward.

Day 3: Wow, It's Cangshan Mountain

Bai Ethnic Flavors at the Foot of Cangshan

Waking up after ten, we first ate at a Bai ethnic restaurant near Erhai Park, recommended by yesterday's driver as a local favorite. We ordered a table full of dishes. Though the flavors still didn't quite suit our taste, the "water spinach" (水性杨花) and butter tea were definitely worth trying.

A Symphony of "Wows" on the Cable Car

From the restaurant, we took a taxi directly to the Cangshan ticket office. You can buy tickets online, but no matter the platform, you still have to validate them at the window, so we just bought them there. I have to give Dali's scenic spots credit: seniors over 60 and students get discounts, and children under 8 get another kind of discount—very considerate.

Riding the Gantong Cable Car up the mountain, we kept going "Wow," "Wow." The blue sky and white clouds felt within arm's reach; below us were neatly arranged wheat fields, crisscrossing paths, and orderly houses. At that moment, I only regretted my limited vocabulary—I couldn't find more beautiful words to describe this vast, magnificent scene.

Cangshan's nineteen peaks are interspersed with eighteen streams, and the water on the mountain is especially cool and refreshing. But with our elderly, children, and me still recovering from my fracture, we couldn't manage the steep steps—we just walked on the gentler paths. My colleague's family went to Qingbi Stream to check out the clear springs and waterfalls.

Night Tour of Dali Ancient Town: Dà Bīng's Little Hut and "On the Road"

After settling the elderly and kids for the night, my colleague and I slipped away to Dali Ancient Town. The town is square and easy to navigate with GPS. There's a shop called "Mao Xi Jia Fried Mushrooms" that was incredibly tasty—so good I wanted to bring some back for the kids, but by the time we returned, they were already asleep.

Bars were everywhere, full of handsome men and beautiful women—bustling but not noisy. I specifically went looking for Dà Bīng's Little Hut (大冰的小屋). Standing outside, I saw it was packed inside, the door closed. My colleague didn't know who Dà Bīng was, so I didn't have the nerve to go in. Eventually, we randomly entered a bar called "On the Road"—the vibe was nice. We ordered two drinks and started taking photos, listening to music, chatting idly—just whiling away the time, softening our minds and bodies.

We didn't leave until the wee hours, but the ancient town was still lively. Dali, you're wonderful.

Day 4: Shaxi, We're in Love

Farewell to Dali, Grumbling About the Traffic

Our fourth day in Dali was also the day we transferred to Shaxi. Though we didn't catch a full sunrise in the morning, the morning glow was beautiful enough.

We booked a shuttle bus to Shaxi through the "Caiyuntong" mini-program—80 yuan per person. But I have to say, Dali's traffic is truly maddening—day or night, you see no traffic police on duty. Two-wheelers, three-wheelers, four-wheelers all run wild, and nobody follows traffic rules. On the day we left, it was traffic jams, congestion, and chaos all the way. If I ever get another chance to come, I hope this place becomes cleaner and more orderly.

Shaxi: Tenderness Hidden in Time

The moment we arrived in Shaxi, we fell in love.

The entire ancient town is neat, orderly, and quiet. Every day, you see cleaning staff sweeping—even the leaves are swept clean. Clear streams run through the town constantly; Mili stopped every few steps to play in the water.

Our guesthouse was right in the center—opening the window, we faced the ancient stage, right next to the big banyan tree. The town is small; you can easily walk to any entrance. The Bai ethnic lady who picked us up at the station told us there would be a Torch Festival that night—because this year has an intercalary sixth month, the Torch Festival was being held again. We were incredibly lucky!

Bai Torch Festival: Dancing in the Rain

Around seven in the evening, the small square was packed with people. But just as it was about to start, it began to rain—not lightly. Yet the rain didn't dampen anyone's spirits at all. My best friend led the two kids into the dancing and singing crowd. "All ethnic groups are one family"—this sentiment felt especially real in that moment.

Day 5: This Is Shaxi, the Place with the Wind

Morning in the Ancient Town and the Librairie Avant-Garde

Waking up early, the ancient town was still quiet. Of course, we had to visit Yujin Bridge and the Librairie Avant-Garde (先锋书店). The clouds and wind here have shapes—they are earthly beauty that makes you want to stop and just daydream.

We took a little yellow minibus to the bookstore, but since we had booked a car to Lugu Lake at one o'clock, my heart wasn't settled enough—we just skimmed through. In this fast-food era, most people only polish their social media feeds; few actually sit down to read a page.

Dangdang's Heartwarming Moment

Today was Dangdang's happy day as Mili's little shadow. He held an umbrella for her the whole way—through sunshine and rain, without letting a single drop fall on Mili. "I didn't let a single drop of rain fall on you," he said. On the minibus, he said his sister should sit by the window because she likes it. Then he paused and added, "Actually, I like sitting by the window too."

Well-behaved children always sacrifice themselves—it's both heartwarming and heartbreaking.

Over the Mountains to Lugu Lake

From Shaxi to Lugu Lake, we hired a nine-seater car for 1,400 yuan. At first, it didn't seem cheap, but after winding through the mountain roads, going up and down at 3,000 meters elevation, crossing three mountains, we realized how far apart these towns really are. Along the way, everyone had some reactions—altitude sickness or motion sickness—someone feeling unwell at various points.

We passed the Jinsha River viewing platform—the scenery was magnificent. We were glad we chose to hire a driver—if we had driven ourselves, dealing with heavy, moderate, and light rain all along the way, it would have been even more exhausting.

Day 6: Lugu Lake, Hoping for a Romantic Blue

Checking into September Sky Lodge

We stayed in Daluoshui Village, the only remaining lakeside village on Lugu Lake. Our room at September Sky Lodge was a parent-child slide room—highly recommended for families with kids!

Seeing "Water Spinach" from a Pig-Trough Boat

In the morning, we rented a traditional pig-trough boat, charged per person. The weather wasn't great—overcast all day, so the lake water didn't show its beautiful blue. But when we drifted to the middle of the lake and just floated there quietly, we were still awestruck. We kept going "Wow," "Wow," and the boatman said they've become immune to it—yes, when you always have something, you no longer cherish it.

So this is "water spinach" (水性杨花)—not the big flowers I imagined, but tiny ones. The world still needs to be measured and experienced by yourself.

The Mosuo People's Walking Marriage Tradition

Both our driver and boatman were Mosuo, and we listened to them tell us about the fascinating walking marriage tradition. When a young man and woman fall in love, the man can climb through the window into the woman's room. After the woman gives birth, at the baby's one-month celebration, the father's identity is announced. The father still lives in his original home, mainly taking financial responsibility, while the mother's family handles upbringing. The role of adult male is filled by the mother's brother.

A strong matrilineal system—there's probably not much family conflict. Nowadays, though, Mosuo parents live together, occasionally taking children to visit their paternal grandparents.

Nüwa Bay: Rain and Regret

At Nüwa Bay, there was a row of photographers using small table mirrors to create a "mirror of the sky" effect. We caught a brief spell of good weather—blue sky, white clouds, showing that romantic blue. But Lugu Lake seemed to want us to come back again; suddenly it started raining, heavier and heavier, and we never made it to Goddess Mountain.

In the afternoon, we split into two groups: one stayed at the guesthouse watching the lake and playing cards, while the other group took the three kids to "Cat's Sky City" to read books, drink coffee, and eat desserts. Just slowing down, slower and slower.

Day 7: Goodbye Lugu Lake, Hello Lijiang

Ice Cream on the Return Trip

No sunrise at Lugu Lake in the morning either. On the way back, Mili got carsick again—she needed an ice cream at 3,000 meters elevation to feel better. The winding mountain roads were exhausting to ride. Our driver said they're building an expressway now—hopefully in a few years, it'll be easier to get here.

Assembly-Line Miao Ethnic Portraits

Four hours later, we arrived in Lijiang Ancient Town. The weather was bad, so we didn't explore the town. What to do then? "Since we're here"—we had to try the assembly-line Miao ethnic portrait photos.

Mili picked a red outfit, and we did a mother-daughter set. The makeup was done incredibly fast—Mili asked, "Mom, why is the makeup so fast here?" Every year at the photo studio, it takes at least an hour; she was experiencing mass-production speed for the first time. Cute, actually.

199 yuan for one set, 398 for mother-daughter. Mili bargained it down to 380 for two sets. After shooting, we immediately got preliminary edits and selected photos. My best friend added over 300 yuan to get a big set she was happy with; we didn't add a single one—kudos for restraint!

Later, wandering through the ancient town, we found many places where you can rent costumes and shoot yourself, including makeup, for under 100 yuan. That seems more practical—with powerful smartphone cameras, everyone's a good photographer.

Day 8: Into the Mountains, Let's Visit Spruce Meadow

Ticket Wars and Mountain Entry Guide

How could you come to Lijiang and not visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain? Book a week in advance on the "Lijiang Tourism Group" official account. The big cable car tickets go on sale at 8 PM, Spruce Meadow cable car at 9 PM. We were all nervous while grabbing tickets, but my best friend got lucky—she snagged the summit big cable car at 8 and Spruce Meadow at 9.

First, pay the mountain entry fee: 100 yuan for adults, 50 for seniors and children. Our group of eight came to exactly 250 yuan—what a number!

Blue Moon Valley and Spruce Meadow in the Rain

Following the攻略, we didn't go directly to Spruce Meadow. Instead, we took the bus to Blue Moon Valley first, going against the crowd. This route was indeed smooth—short queues.

The water in Blue Moon Valley was green. Though there was no sunlight, looking at the mountains, water, and scenery still lifted our spirits. Walking up the wooden boardwalk, we got caught in the rain. Mili curiously took a puff of oxygen—the sensation wasn't pleasant, but she took a few more puffs later. Oxygen cans are absolutely essential; you never know who might need them—among our group, my best friend's husband used up several cans.

The cable car ride was short, and we soon reached Spruce Meadow. While taking photos, I said, "As long as I don't say it's raining right now, no one will know I'm getting wet." The rain was quite heavy as we walked through the forest, but since we were already wet, we just immersed ourselves in the mountain.

Healing Moments on the Open Meadow

Arriving at the open meadow, the peaks towered into the clouds. Though it was overcast, we could still breathe the thin, sweet air, see the occasional blue sky peeking through, the vast meadow, the dense forest. In this moment, there were no worries.

In the distance, cattle and sheep grazed leisurely. Children ran across the meadow. Adults sat on rocks catching their breath. This is Yunnan. This is the meaning of chasing the wind.

Epilogue: Better to Chase the Wind Than Wait for It

Ten days—not long, not short either. From Dali to Shaxi, from Lugu Lake to Lijiang, we chased the wind, and we chased the longing in our hearts.

What Yunnan taught us wasn't just to see sights, but to learn to slow down. In the wheat fields of Xizhou, by the streams of Shaxi, on the pig-trough boats of Lugu Lake, on the meadow of Spruce Meadow—every moment is worth remembering.

Better to chase the wind than wait for it. When you truly set off, the wind is right behind you.

Practical Tips

1. Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen! Can't stress this enough—plateau UV is no joke.
2. Pack common medications—altitude sickness pills, stomach meds, motion sickness patches.
3. Dali traffic is chaotic—hire a car or take taxis; be extra careful if driving yourself.
4. Shaxi Ancient Town is highly recommended—more character and quieter than Dali Ancient Town.
5. Hiring a car for Lugu Lake is more cost-effective—the mountain roads are tough and risky to drive yourself.
6. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain cable car tickets need to be booked a week in advance—if you can't get them, Spruce Meadow is beautiful too.
7. For families with kids, parent-child slide rooms are a must—kids will absolutely love them.
8. Bring rain gear for the rainy season in Yunnan—but most of the time it's overcast, with only occasional rain.