Yunnan's Sky, a Child's Face | Nine Days Through Kunming + Dali + Lijiang + Lugu Lake

Life is like a fizzing soda—bubbling and popping, always bursting with colorful surprises when you least expect them. And Yunnan is the place that makes those bubbles dazzling.

As a native of Hunan province, I practically know the TV series My Fair Princess by heart—it played on loop back home. When I was a kid, the place called Dali on that screen planted a seed in my heart. As I grew older, Yunnan's map gradually came into focus in my mind—Lijiang's ancient town, Tengchong's hot springs, Shangri-La's snowy peaks, Xishuangbanna's tropical rainforests. Every name pulled at my heartstrings.

But time was limited, and so was my wallet. Greedy as I was to see it all in one go, I never quite took that leap.

Then I met a boyfriend who loves watching documentaries. Every time we talked about travel, he'd say, "Let's go explore Yunnan." Fine—if I couldn't do it all at once, I'd split it into two trips. This time, a scouting mission.

So in late April 2018, we set off on this nine-day Yunnan adventure. From Kunming to Dali, from Lijiang to Lugu Lake, we weathered torrential rain, scorching sun, a high fever, and unexpected surprises. Yunnan's sky really is like a child's face—changing in an instant.

Pre-Departure Prep: A Checklist Is a Control Freak's Best Friend

Before leaving, we went back and forth shipping stuff and buying gear—quite the production. If you're a fellow perfectionist, make sure to list everything out in advance, or it'll ruin your travel vibe.

Clothing: Temperature Swings Are Your Biggest Enemy

May in Yunnan has insane day-to-night temperature swings. On rainy days, it feels as chilly as late autumn; on sunny days, the UV rays are vicious enough to make your skin peel. My advice: short sleeves + sun-protection jacket + a warm outer layer + hot pants + thick trousers + cute shoes + waterproof shoes. And don't forget the rainy-season essentials: raincoat and umbrella.

Packing: Two Big Suitcases Are the Baseline

We had wedding photos in mind for this trip, plus autumn clothes take up space, so we brought two large suitcases. Normally I wash clothes daily when traveling, but Yunnan's weather clearly wasn't cooperating. I recommend bringing: large luggage + sealable clothing organizers + shoe bags + cosmetic pouch + toiletry bag + lightweight backpack.

Daily Essentials: Style Matters, but Health Matters More

No matter where you're off to, sun protection is always priority one. Sunglasses, hat, and pashmina are non-negotiable, and repair masks and hydrating mist are a must. As a Hunan native, Yunnan's cuisine isn't exactly spicy to me, but I still packed stomach meds, cold medicine, and herbal balm. Oh, and if you're planning to rent a car, don't forget your driver's license!

Photography: Phone Snappers Can Get Great Shots Too

Of course you'll want to snap away. Phone, charging cable, power bank, selfie stick, mirrorless camera, DSLR—honestly, the DSLR is bulky and I barely used it in the end.

Kunming: A Game of Cat and Mouse with the Rain

I'd booked round-trip flights a month in advance, but Okay Airways kept changing the schedule—bumping us up a day, which meant we didn't arrive in Kunming until late on the 27th, wasting a night's accommodation. Fellow travelers, be wary of this airline—last-minute schedule changes can mess with your leave requests.

Dianchi Lake & Haigeng Park

Free admission | Suggested time: 3 hours | Rating: ★★★

Every friend who'd been to Yunnan told me to skip Kunming, but I stubbornly didn't listen. Dreaming of seeing Siberian seagulls in late April, I rushed over to Haigeng Park.

Didi rides in Kunming are pretty convenient—about 20 yuan from the train station to Dianchi Lake. But—the sunny sky when we left turned into a downpour the moment we got out. A third of our Dianchi trip was spent sheltering from the rain.

Maybe it was the rain, but the lake water was pretty murky. Locals say Dianchi isn't what it used to be when they were kids. The surrounding scenery was unremarkable—not as nice as the Xiangjiang River walkway back in Changsha. Without seagull season, just don't bother.

Just as we were about to leave, the sky suddenly cleared. We spotted two long-legged white seagulls by the shore, which at least fulfilled a small wish.

Yunnan University

Free admission | Suggested time: 2 hours | Rating: ★★★

A few hiccups meant we arrived at Yunnan University pretty late. Not long after entering, we spotted a little squirrel clinging to a tree trunk—adorable! Turns out feeding squirrels at Yunnan University isn't just a rumor.

But just as we were setting up our tripod for photos, the skies opened up again. We were fated to be rain dodgers. Didn't get to explore the campus properly, so no strong recommendation here.

Golden Horse & Jade Rooster Archways (Jinma Biji Fang)

Free admission | Suggested time: 2 hours | Rating: ★★

After a day of dodging rain, we were starving and grabbed a meal first. Stuffed and happy, we wandered around—it felt no different from the pedestrian streets in Xi'an. So we headed to the big Yunnan Baiyao pharmacy in the central square and dropped some serious cash on medicinal herbs.

When we visited, the archways were surrounded by metro construction, making taxis a nightmare. If you're going during this period, walk a bit farther to hail a ride, and budget at least 90 minutes for the trip.

On Eating

Huanxi Shiyi Yunnan Restaurant (欢喜拾味云南菜馆) | About 60 yuan per person | Rating: ★★★★

This place is near Wuyi Road, not far from the archways. Nice ambiance, spacious interior. We ordered "plum-glazed spare ribs + cold rice noodles with shredded chicken + five-spice lemon grilled fish + tiger-skin peppers + fried milk fan (ru shan)." Generous portions. Paid 125 yuan through Dianping—great value. The flavors lean sweet and sour, lighter on salt and oil than Hunan cuisine. Should be authentic Yunnan food.

Dali: The Sky Feels Close, the Mind Feels Far

Getting off the train and looking up at Dali, over 2,000 meters above sea level, with its blue sky and white clouds, I felt a little closer to heaven. Honestly, Dali doesn't feel like a town that's been hyped for years—it's not that polished, and it even falls short of Fenghuang in Hunan. But the weather was good, so whatever—we'd see as we went.

Jizhao Nunnery (寂照庵)

Free admission | Vegetarian meal: 20 yuan/person | Suggested time: 2 hours | Rating: ★★★★

On the bus from the train station to Dali Old Town, the guide started complaining about how inconvenient the old town's transport was and pushing tour packages. I tuned it all out. We arrived at the guesthouse early, and I fussily showered and changed, eager to head out for dinner—only to find my boyfriend passed out on the sofa like a log.

Actually, Didi is super convenient in Dali—only about 20 yuan from the guesthouse to Jizhao Nunnery. As a succulent plant fanatic, how could I miss this place? Yunnan's reputation as a succulent paradise is well-deserved—every plant was huge, plump, and outrageously colorful. The famous vegetarian meal was indeed quite good.

Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple (Chongsheng Si San Ta)

Admission: 97 yuan/person | Suggested time: 3 hours | Rating: ★★★★

On the way back from Jizhao Nunnery, I accidentally left my beloved tripod in the car. Managed to retrieve it thanks to a mix of brains and luck, but it cost us time. By the time we reached the Three Pagodas, it was nearly 3 PM.

This was our first proper paid attraction in nine days. I have to say, ticketed spots are much more pleasant—better planning and landscaping really elevate the experience.

The Three Pagodas were first built during the Nanzhao Kingdom (824–859 AD), starting with the main "Qianxun Pagoda," followed by the smaller south and north pagodas. Spanning over a thousand years to meet us, they really carry a sense of history. From a distance, you can clearly see the pagodas leaning—hope they hold up.

Don't miss the Three Pagodas Reflection Park, an Instagram hotspot. The beauty you see with your eyes can't be captured by a camera. It's a bit tucked away—you have to go through a small path to find it. If you get lost, don't be shy about asking for directions.

Dali Old Town

Free admission | Suggested time: 3 hours | Rating: ★★★

We left the Three Pagodas around 6 PM and tried to taxi back to the old town, but traffic was gridlocked. Our plan to rest at the guesthouse went out the window as we decided to get out and wander—only to get caught in another downpour.

The entire old town was undergoing sewage pipe renovation—the guesthouse owner said it had been going on for nearly a year. Broken paths everywhere, piles of dirt, scattered gravel, plus rain and puddles—it drove me crazy.

The old town hasn't truly separated pedestrian and vehicle traffic, hygiene is mediocre, and the shop quality is so-so. My biggest regret was the bars—every one I passed made my heart itch to go in, but we had to drive the next day, so we just headed back to the guesthouse to rest.

On Eating

Dali Mufu Yinshi Restaurant (大理沐府隐拾餐厅) | About 70 yuan per person | Rating: ★★★★★

This was the best meal I had in nine days in Yunnan! As a Hunan native, how can I live without spice? Many dishes here are Sichuan-style—very satisfying with rice, without being too heavy. We ordered "a big platter of salt-and-pepper treats + Lingnan-style fermented black bean baby bok choy + minced pork eggplant." Strongly recommend the first two. The eggplant was a bit oily, so skip it if you're not into that.

On Sleeping

Anzhi Yijinnian (安之忆锦年) | 233 yuan/night | Rating: ★★★★★

I fell in love with this place at first sight on Ctrip and booked two nights—the best guesthouse of the whole trip. It's a bit of a walk from the old town, but that means it's quiet. If the owner has time, they'll even provide free drop-off and pickup from the old town.

The guesthouse has a natural wood aesthetic, very Japanese-style—floor-to-ceiling windows, a big bathtub, white curtains, with separate sitting and sleeping areas. Huge. It was also the only place that came in to clean and restock water bottles during our stay. Perfect score.

Erhai Lake Loop: 115 Kilometers of Romance and Chaos

Before setting out, I'd done detailed research. The 115-kilometer road around Erhai Lake is impossible to cover on foot or by scooter—you need a car. The guesthouse owner helped us rent a Smart car—tiny, easy to park anywhere. During the May Day holiday, the price went from 220 to 260 yuan, and gas for the whole trip cost about 60 yuan. Off we went!

Xizhou Ancient Town

Free admission | Suggested time: 3 hours | Rating: ★★★★

Our original plan for the Erhai loop was to shoot wedding photos, but the whole morning was drizzly and overcast, miserably cold. Eventually, we scrapped the plan, ditched the wedding dress, and changed into our own clothes—much more comfortable.

By the time we dawdled our way to Xizhou, it was already noon. After lunch, I finally saw sunlight! Oh my god, I felt reborn.

Xizhou sits west of Cangshan Mountain and east of Erhai Lake. It was one of the "ten districts" during the Nanzhao period and is a famous historical and cultural town in Yunnan, as well as a major overseas Chinese hometown. The weathered murals and ancient architecture give you a surreal sense of time travel.

But Xizhou, too, hadn't escaped the sewage pipe renovation curse—broken paths and dust everywhere. We skipped many Instagram spots. Since the weather had cleared, we pushed on!

Haishe Park (Tongue Park)

Free admission | Suggested time: 1.5 hours | Rating: ★★★★★

I don't know if I was blind, but I completely missed Haishe Park in my research. Luckily, I stumbled upon it while looking for tie-dye in Xizhou—what incredible luck!

The weather had turned sunny, the clouds parted, and the white clouds reflected on Erhai's surface—it was like a fairyland. Anyone who says Erhai is dirty clearly hasn't found this gem. It's the most fairytale scene I've ever seen, hands down. My photography skills couldn't capture even a tenth of its beauty.

The Couple Trees

Free admission | Suggested time: 0.5 hours | Rating: ★★★★

Couple trees? I could have sworn they were by the lakeshore. Whatever—these two massive trees at the entrance of Haishe Park are gorgeous. Snapped some photos. Very Japanese, very清新 (refreshing), aren't they?

These two trees are at the end of the path leading out of Haishe Park—only reachable on foot. Worth a stop before you leave.

East Erhai Road

Free admission | Suggested time: 4 hours | Rating: ★★★★

By 3 PM, we hadn't even completed half the loop. But no rush—no matter how we played it, we'd get home eventually. I'd heard Shuanglang was a giant construction site, but when we got there—it wasn't just a site, it was a mountain of dirt! Everywhere you looked, yellow-brown mud hills. Roads were blocked, so we had to get on the highway and continue back.

The sunset along East Erhai Road was stunning. The Tyndall effect—rays of light breaking through the clouds and scattering across the lake—was utterly mesmerizing. By the time we passed the Wase Water Road, it was already quite dark, but I couldn't resist dragging my boyfriend (who wanted to hurry back) out of the car for photos. How do you describe this endless blue? I don't know.

Many parts of East Erhai Road are under construction. We continued along the highway back toward Dali, and every frame before our eyes was intoxicating. The highway, the sunset, folk music, and a man—well, you know what I mean.

On Eating

Moshang Huayuan (陌上花园) | About 47 yuan per person | Rating: ★★★★★

This place is right behind the famous yellow wall—very easy to find. It had the best ambiance of any restaurant on the trip, especially with the sunlight streaming in—it made me feel so happy. We ordered "Moshang beef brisket clay pot + old lady potatoes (laonai yangyu) + cold eggplant." The flavors were decent—not too spicy, not too bland. The eggplant was surprisingly good, but it came out too late when we were already full.

Lijiang: A Proposal, the Old Town, and Slow Living

Day four, no plans—just wandering. The reality was, I had no unfinished business. So we went back to Dali Old Town during the day, had lunch, and set off for the next stop.

A Surprise Proposal

On the 700th day since we met, my boyfriend secretly arranged a very stereotypically straight-guy proposal for me in Lijiang. I'd once told him, "I don't want a public proposal that feels like emotional blackmail—just a few close friends to witness it." He only seemed to remember the first half. But I figured, in this remote corner of the world, if I said no, the consequences probably wouldn't be pretty.

For a die-hard straight guy, the fact that he put this much effort into preparing a proposal was genuinely touching and satisfying. But he was so nervous that he changed outfits three times that morning and couldn't even get a full sentence out during the proposal.

Lijiang Old Town

Free admission | Suggested time: 4 hours | Rating: ★★★

My first encounter with Lijiang Old Town was nothing but "Wow! Wow! Wow!" But it was getting dark, not ideal for photos, so we just wandered, looked around, and ate. An hour later, though, I'd lost interest in the town I'd been so excited about just moments before. The fully pedestrian streets, the uniform style of the shops, the clean and tidy environment—it all gets a bit tiring after a while.

Over nine days, we spent three evenings in Lijiang Old Town. We just wandered aimlessly—I don't even know how much of it we covered. What I experienced was street after street of "guesthouse + flower cake shop + jewelry store + pashmina shop + travel agency," with even the product styles looking identical. It just didn't hold my interest.

That said, the guesthouses in Lijiang are on a whole different level from Dali's. Each one has its own unique character. The prices, though, are also significantly higher.

On Eating

Yunxueli Restaurant, Ashun Kitchen Branch (云雪丽餐厅阿顺厨房店) | About 100 yuan per person | Rating: ★★★

If I had to give this place a "most" for the Yunnan trip, it would be "most expensive." Definitely a Lijiang Instagram-famous spot. The exterior ambiance is nice, but the interior is just okay. We waited about 40-50 minutes for a table. We ordered "secret recipe雪山鱼 (snow mountain fish) + Naxi grilled meat + spring tofu + green plum wine + tamarind juice." The snow mountain fish is sour and spicy, great with rice—that gets a thumbs-up. The other items? Not really worth recommending—not that impressive. For the price, the overall taste wasn't great.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: Fever vs. Glacier

About twenty days before departure, I saw news that Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was closed, which worried me. I'd already given up on Meili Snow Mountain—was I going to lose this one too? Whatever, I'd make the plans anyway. Only after leaving Dali did I book a day trip through Mafengwo: 436 yuan per person, including admission, cable car round trip, and transport—pretty good value.

Ganhaizi Meadow

Admission included in Jade Dragon Snow Mountain ticket | Suggested time: 0.5 hours | Rating: ★★★

Ganhaizi is an open grassland at the eastern foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the closest spot to get a full view of the mountain. Most of it is fenced off with small colored flags for protection, with only a few areas for photos. Just ask your guide to drive by—you'll be done in under ten minutes.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Admission: 130 yuan + Cable car: 182 yuan | Suggested time: 4 hours | Rating: ★★★

The 436-yuan package also included a heavy winter coat, oxygen canisters, and water. For someone like me who doesn't exercise, the oxygen canister was totally unnecessary—just a hassle to carry. At this altitude, if you take it slow, 90% of people should be fine.

The day we climbed, we ran into heavy fog and rain, which turned into full-on snow at the top. Not huge flakes, but still a cool experience. Treat the whole up-and-down process as a challenge. The initial view is stunning, but the overall experience is just okay.

If you're planning to visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, make sure to wear somewhat waterproof shoes and bring a thermal layer. I wore a short-sleeve shirt and a hoodie that didn't even fit properly—ended up with a high fever on the way down.

Blue Moon Valley (Lanyue Gu)

Admission included in Jade Dragon Snow Mountain ticket | Suggested time: 3 hours | Rating: ★★★★★

The name "Blue Moon Valley" comes from the fact that its water appears blue on sunny days, and the valley is crescent-shaped, looking like a blue moon embedded at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The four small lakes—Jade Liquid Lake, Mirror Pool Lake, Blue Moon Lake, and Listening to Waves Lake—are all stunning. Even though it was drizzling the day we visited, it still lived up to its nickname "Little Jiuzhaigou."

The four lakes are close together—you can breeze through them in about an hour if you're just glancing. But this is a paradise for wedding photos and travel shoots, so getting a good shot takes patience and skill.

Local specialties like beef sauce and matsutake mushrooms didn't seem particularly unique and were overpriced. There was one unassuming item called "snow peach cake" (xue tao gao) that was surprisingly good—tangy and sweet, perfect for cutting through the greasiness of the mediocre group lunch.

On Eating

Liangchu Restaurant (梁厨餐饮) | About 50 yuan per person | Rating: ★★★★★

On the way back to Lijiang Old Town, my headache and fever had completely gotten the better of me. My very-straight-guy boyfriend strictly forbade me from going out to eat and drink and ordered me back to the guesthouse to rest. He waited until I woke up and brought this back.

"Taro and chestnut braised beef brisket + black bean sauce chicken feet + greens." Under 100 yuan for two, very homey. Slightly adapted Cantonese cuisine—really good. Especially recommend the chestnut braised pork belly and the taro and chestnut beef brisket. If you're tired of Yunnan food, give this a try.

Lugu Lake: Downpour, Altitude Sickness, and Regrets

Compared to Dali, Lijiang is truly a place of slow living. In my memory, Fenghuang and Dali both go quiet by midnight, while Lijiang's bars go silent as early as 11 PM. And it's not just slow at night—mornings are slow too. Even by 11 or 12 AM, not many shops are open. The quiet alleys in the morning are a stark contrast to the bustling crowds at night—perfect for early birds to wander and snap photos.

Because of this slow pace, Lijiang has few breakfast spots, and they're surprisingly expensive. On our two mornings there, we had noodles, wontons, steamed buns, tea eggs, and the like—each meal cost over 25 yuan per person, and the taste was just barely enough to fill our stomachs.

Arriving at Lugu Lake

Admission: 100 yuan/person | Suggested time: 24 hours | Rating: ★★★★

Have you ever seen Lugu Lake in a white sheet of torrential rain? Have you ever seen Lugu Lake pitch black in the dark? Well, now I've seen it all.

My boyfriend, worried about my fever from the day before, ditched the bus and called a ride-share instead. 165 yuan for the two of us—not too bad. Transport is pretty convenient these days, but it still stung a bit.

My three-day Lugu Lake plan was my worst piece of planning. Since the weather was bad, here are some tips:

Clothing: Early May at Lugu Lake has huge temperature swings—the lows are much colder than Dali or Lijiang. Especially on rainy days, a short-sleeve shirt plus a spring jacket won't cut it. I'm not particularly sensitive to cold, but on rainy nights, I was wearing a short-sleeve shirt + hoodie + jacket. Best to bring a warm long-sleeve or a slightly thicker jacket. On sunny days, it's scorching—you'll want to take off even your short sleeves.

Sun Protection: At over 2,600 meters elevation, by the water, don't underestimate the UV. I spent days in Sanya without issue, but one day at Lugu Lake left my face sunburned, and my hands still haven't recovered. Bring both physical and chemical sun protection—enough to spare.

Transport: Getting from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is now very convenient. Ride-shares at about 80 yuan per person and buses at about 40 yuan per person both take around four hours—choose based on your budget.

Itinerary: I overestimated Lugu Lake's transportation. Even though they charge admission, it feels like there's absolutely no proper infrastructure—public transport? Car rentals? Walking paths? Forget it. The 60-kilometer loop around the lake is nearly impossible without a private car. May also hadn't escaped the sewage pipe construction curse—the shoreline at Daluoshui was completely torn up, and with the rain, my slight germophobia was on the verge of a breakdown.

If your schedule is tight, one day at Lugu Lake is enough:

• Plan A: Morning: wander the quiet Lijiang Old Town. Depart for Lugu Lake around 1 PM. Evening: check out the night view. Day two: full-day lake loop. Day three: head back in the morning.
• Plan B: If your goal is just to lounge by the lake and live a slow life, you can stretch it indefinitely.

On Sleeping

Gewa Huashijian (戈瓦花时间) | 133 yuan/night | Rating: ★★★★

For accommodation at Lugu Lake, Daluoshui is the top choice. Because honestly, given its level of development, it's really just a small village. The guesthouses in Daluoshui range from simple to the kind that makes me drool with envy—prices from dirt cheap to sky-high.

In Conclusion: Yunnan's Sky, a Child's Face

Nine days—not long, not short. We went through torrential rain, scorching sun, a high fever, a proposal, altitude sickness, and regrets. But more than that, there were those heart-stopping moments—the fairytale scene at Haishe Park, the Tyndall light along East Erhai Road at sunset, the blue wonderland of Blue Moon Valley, and that stone-cold straight guy in Lijiang Old Town who couldn't get his words out from nerves.

Yunnan's sky really is like a child's face—changing in an instant. But that's exactly why every sunny day feels so precious, and every rainbow brings tears to your eyes.

If you're planning to go to Yunnan, remember three things: sun protection, rain protection, and altitude sickness prevention. Then pack your good mood and set off.

Life bubbles and fizzes, and Yunnan is the place that makes those bubbles burst into color.