💐 A Yunnan Small-City Escape: Our May Day Family Trip to Mile & Fuxian Lake 💐

Foreword: When Parental Leave Vanishes, How Do We "Steal" a Vacation?

After our child turned three, parental leave disappeared like a gust of wind. The remaining vacation days for the year, counted on one hand, amounted to just five. But spring arrives, and with it comes a restless heart, always yearning to find a place to run free. For the May Day holiday, with perfect weather on the horizon, we set our sights on Yunnan—a niche route known for stunning scenery, fewer crowds, and a chance to escape the masses. The turquoise waters of Fuxian Lake had long been on our wish list, and a quick search led us to Mile, a small city about two hours' drive from Kunming, famous for its hot springs and forests. We booked our flights and hotels, packed up the family, and set off for a "reverse travel" adventure.

🗺️ Six-Day, Five-Night Itinerary at a Glance

Day 1
Beijing Daxing ✈️ Kunming Changshui 🚗 Mile → Dinner: Jiali Restaurant → Check-in: Mile Taiping Lake Wooden Cabin Hotel

Day 2
Half-day at Taiping Lake → Lunch: Hotel Lakeside Restaurant → Lake Spring Ecological Park for sand-digging → Dinner: Old Mile

Day 3
Leisurely stroll at Taiping Lake → Check-out → Lunch: Old Mile → Shopping at Mile Walmart → Check-in: Fuxian Lake Wanda Vista Hotel → Dinner: Hotel Restaurant

Day 4
Fuxian Lake West Route: Hotel → Fuxian Lake Park → Lunch: Jiangchuan Farmhouse Courtyard → Star Fish Cave → Lakeside relaxation → Dinner: Fresh Capital Fish Fragrance → Luchong Scenic Area → Fuxian Lake Starry Night Market

Day 5
Fuxian Lake East Route: Hotel → Chengjiang Fossil Site Museum → Lunch: Guixinyuan Lakeside Stone Pot Fish → Instagram-famous S-Bend → Heading South → Cherry Blossom Valley for sunset → Dinner: Lake Flavor Fish Village (Xiaowan Village Branch)

Day 6
Moon Bay Wetland Park 🚗 Kunming Changshui ✈️ Beijing

💰 Cost Breakdown (Family of Three)

🍽️ Restaurants We Still Crave

Mile · Jiali Restaurant ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

This was our first meal in Mile and the most stunning of the entire trip. Calling it a "restaurant" doesn't do it justice—it's a sprawling courtyard house, with a two-story building enclosing a central space. Bamboo tables and chairs are scattered across the yard, and the small rooms are furnished with simple bamboo pieces. To order, you go to the front counter and point at pictures. A friendly auntie, notepad in hand, recommended dishes while also trying to talk us down: "Listen to me, you really can't finish all that. If you want more, come back tomorrow. Today, this is enough." That kind of genuine, down-to-earth sincerity warms your heart.

We ordered Mile-style spiced chicken, rolled cold noodles, stinky tofu, squash tip and peanut soup, and corn cakes. The chicken was a revelation from the first bite—the skin was wonderfully chewy, the meat deeply flavorful, and paired with chili oil, it was perfection. The rolled cold noodles were tangy and refreshing, the corn cakes soft and sweet, and the squash tip soup was both savory and comforting. The only "miss" was the stinky tofu—crispy on the outside, tender inside, but not nearly pungent enough. Different Yunnan style, I suppose. For two adults and one child, we ate until we were stuffed and still had leftovers. The bill? 110 RMB. At those prices, I almost cried with gratitude.

Mile · Old Mile ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

The hottest restaurant in the city center, offering online queueing. The selection of snacks is dizzying: rice wine, papaya water, chicken feet, floating rice cakes... You can order anything and everything—each dish has its own character, and the prices are incredibly reasonable. Perfect for travelers like us who want to sample every local specialty.

Fuxian Lake · Jiangchuan Farmhouse Courtyard ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

A farmhouse restaurant near Star Fish Cave, specializing in copper pot fish. The broth is clear, the fish meat silky and tender, and the soup so delicious you'll go back for bowl after bowl. The other home-style dishes are equally satisfying. But the setting is the real highlight—under the shade of trees and umbrellas, diners eat fish while the owner catches them, waitstaff bustle about, and sunlight filters through the leaves. Everything moves slowly, peacefully. It's the kind of place where time seems to stand still.

Fuxian Lake · Guixinyuan Lakeside Stone Pot Fish ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Located in Dawan Village on the east route, this place is famous for steam-cooked stone pot fish. Unlike the previous spot, the fish soup here is creamy white and rich. After finishing the fish, you can add vegetables to the broth. The second floor offers lake views, but when we arrived during peak hours, the staff saved us a small table by the window on the first floor. The wooden window frame framed the blue expanse of Fuxian Lake perfectly. Eating fish while gazing at the lake—it was so idyllic, we didn't want to leave.

🏨 Hidden Gem Hotels

Mile Taiping Lake Forest Wooden Cabin Hotel

We stayed in Wooden Cabin Villa B1—a private unit with its own courtyard where you can park your car right inside. The yard has a table, chairs, and a faucet, and our little one had a blast playing with water. The room was spacious and comfortable for three. Rates were 698 RMB/night on April 30th and 1,580 RMB/night on May 1st, including breakfast. Averaging just over 1,000 RMB per night during the May Day holiday, it was great value.

Breakfast is served at the Lakeside Restaurant, featuring Yunnan specialties like rice noodles and fresh fruit. After eating, you can feed the fish by the lake. The service was impeccable—electric buggies were always available on call. Family-friendly amenities abound: a non-motorized playground, bonfire parties, movie nights, and even free daycare during the day. We loved the feeling of living in the forest. The little cabins in the sunlight looked like something out of a fairy tale. Both Lele and I were reluctant to leave.

Fuxian Lake Wanda Vista Hotel

We booked a villa terrace king room with a large outdoor soaking pool. The hotel even upgraded us for free to a suite with a living room and kitchen—probably the largest suite we've ever stayed in. At 1,188 RMB/night including breakfast, the price and space during the May Day holiday were an incredible deal. Breakfast was standard, but the public areas had a lovely Southeast Asian vibe. The only minor drawback was the bed—too soft. My husband's back was wrecked after the first night, but they swapped it for a firmer mattress, and all was well. Every evening, I soaked in the pool, letting the warm water wash away the day's fatigue.

💡 Four Tips for Avoiding the Crowds

1. Choose open natural landscapes—even with more people, the space disperses them, so it never feels crowded.
2. Avoid places that only look good at Instagram-famous spots—pick places that are "always in character." Even if attractions have lines, the scenery along the way is beautiful enough. Fuxian Lake is a perfect example: the entire lakeshore is scenic, and skipping the official spots can be even more enjoyable.
3. Book a hotel with great views—if the attractions are too packed, you can still wander and take photos on the hotel grounds, which helps balance the disappointment.
4. Call restaurants ahead of time—ask if they offer online queueing or can reserve a table. With a hungry child in tow, waiting too long can really ruin the mood.

🔔 Other Practical Tips

• Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Yunnan's UV rays are ridiculously strong. Even on overcast days, the sun burns. My husband didn't put sunscreen on his arms, and they ended up painful and itchy, directly affecting our enjoyment.
• Big temperature swings—during May Day, days feel like Beijing summer, but as soon as it rains, you'll be shivering. Bring a jacket, but feel free to pack all your summer dresses.
• Find "self-service" activities for the kids—things like scooping water or digging in the sand. That way, adults can zone out and relax.

Day 1: First Impressions, Feeling Yunnan's Rain and Breath

Beijing → Kunming

We woke up early and headed straight for the airport. My husband dawdled until after eight, and the taxi driver drove slowly, nearly sparking an argument. Sigh, at his age, still so hot-headed. Luckily, check-in went smoothly. This time, we discovered that business class was only about 4,000 RMB more for the three of us round-trip, so we upgraded without hesitation. We were among the last to board. I chose a single seat, letting my husband sit with Lele, and enjoyed some rare alone time.

Lunch was delicious, and I devoured it. This was Lele's third flight, and he only cared about takeoff; after that, it was all toys and cartoons. At 2 PM, the plane landed. Yunnan, here we come!

One of Kunming Changshui Airport's unique features is the abundance of flowers. Near baggage claim, there's a flower rack with pots of fresh blooms for 9.9 RMB each. You scan the code and take one—on the honor system. Lele insisted, so we bought a pot, which he named "Baby Flower." That little plant traveled with us for six days and five nights and was still thriving when we returned to Beijing. As we exited the airport, staff from Jiahua Flower Cake gave everyone a pink rose. Kunming really knows how to deliver on the emotional value.

This time, we rented a Tank 300. It was more expensive than a smaller car, but totally worth it—every time I got in or out, I felt like a cool girl. As we left the airport, a torrential downpour began. We waited 30 minutes to pick up the car, and a gray Tank emerged from the rain and mist. After inspection and handover, we set off for Mile.

First Meal in Mile: Jiali Restaurant

In less than two hours, the rain gradually subsided. By the time we entered Mile, it had almost stopped. We'd originally planned to go to Lake Spring Ecological Park for Lele to dig in the sand, but the ground was still wet, so we decided to eat first. Jiali Restaurant lived up to its reputation. We were lucky to get a small private room. When ordering, the auntie advised us to order less, saying we wouldn't finish it. We didn't believe her. We were wrong.

While waiting for the food, Lele and I wandered around the courtyard. The yard wasn't particularly designed, but every plant and stone felt comfortable. I climbed to the second floor opposite and waved at my husband through the window of our room. He shouted back, "Food's here, come back!" It felt as natural as being called home for dinner.

Dish after dish arrived, each one a revelation. The spiced chicken was the best—chewy skin, flavorful meat, perfect with chili oil. The rolled cold noodles were tangy and refreshing, the corn cakes soft and sweet, and the squash tip soup was both warming and unique. The only disappointment was the stinky tofu—crispy outside, tender inside, but not stinky enough. The bill was 110 RMB. I was almost in tears.

As we ate, it started raining again. A young waiter used a pole to raise the awning, and Lele watched, mesmerized. After we finished, Lele ran outside to catch raindrops and splash in puddles. I pulled up a bamboo stool and sat under the eaves, watching him. Children have such a powerful ability to connect with nature. They run toward it without hesitation, merging with it in their own way.

Sleeping in a Fairy Tale: Taiping Lake Wooden Cabin Hotel

By the time we drove to the hotel, the rain had almost stopped, and the golden light of sunset peeked through the clouds. Stepping out of the car, I breathed in the scent of wet grass and rain—it was exhilarating. A front desk staff member drove us to our room in a buggy: a private wooden cabin with its own courtyard, space to park, and outdoor furniture. The room was spacious and comfortable for three. Prices doubled during the May Day holiday, but we'd booked two nights at an average of 1,100 RMB/night, which felt very reasonable.

After freshening up, we put on warm clothes (Mile gets cold after rain!) and headed to the bonfire party. The host got everyone dancing around the fire. My husband carried Lele on his shoulders and was fully into it, but for some reason, I couldn't let loose. Lele wasn't into it either, so he dragged me to the non-motorized playground, where he challenged himself on the climbing frame and slide. Afterward, we went to the small bar to watch cartoons. I bought a chilled bottle of tamarind juice and lounged on the sofa, enjoying the evening.

Back in the room, we washed up and put Lele to bed. After he fell asleep, I realized I'd forgotten my facial cleanser. I ordered one via delivery, but it turned out to be counterfeit. I requested a refund. A minor hiccup. All in all, the first day went smoothly—great food, comfortable accommodation. Goodnight.

Day 2: Riding a Scooter into Taiping Lake's Untouched Wilderness

Lakeside Breakfast

The next morning, I pulled back the curtains. It wasn't raining, and it even looked like the sun might come out. Lucky us. Breakfast was at the Lakeside Restaurant, with outdoor seating overlooking the tranquil water, where gray swans and plump koi swam. Yunnan rice noodles were served piping hot—add a spoonful of minced pork sauce, sprinkle with scallions and cilantro, and take a big slurp. Perfection. There were also long mulberries, much sweeter than the ones sold in Beijing.

After eating, I left my husband and Lele to feed the fish while I went back to the room to pack. Riding the buggy through the lush greenery felt like being in a painting. Except I got the room number wrong and almost walked into someone else's yard. Oops.

Taiping Lake Scooter Ride

We set off for Taiping Lake Forest Park. Staying at the wooden cabin hotel gave us free entry and unlimited access. The park is huge, with three ways to get around: a mini train, four-person electric carts, and two-person scooters. We chose the scooters. The first 30 minutes cost 30 RMB, then 0.5 RMB per minute after that. We rode for three hours and spent just over 100 RMB. Much faster than the electric carts—highly recommended for families with kids.

First stop: Rose Garden, filled with various roses and wedding photo backdrops. Lele started acting up—blocking the camera, running in front of me, both annoying and endearing. I'm not a fan of artificial setups, so we quickly moved on.

After that, we had no route planned. We sandwiched Lele between us, with him holding onto my husband, and we took off. Whenever we saw a beautiful spot, we'd stop to take photos. Sometimes Lele protested; other times, he stayed on the scooter listening to stories. We passed palm trees and pink flower fields. Even though Lele refused to get off, the thrill of riding the scooter made up for everything. My husband twisted the throttle to max, overtaking the mini train. The wind whipped through our hair, and Lele shouted happily, "Dad, don't slow down!" The sky was vast, the earth wide, and all that remained were clouds and the sound of the wind. Riding the scooter at Taiping Lake was the absolute highlight of the day.

We rode to a calm lakeside spot. I bought Lele a bubble wand, and while he blew bubbles for me, I snapped tons of photos. My husband taught him how to skip stones, but Lele kept picking up big, heavy rocks. Hilarious. We played by the lake for a long time, completely alone. We'd completely forgotten it was the first day of the May Day golden week. I was so proud of myself for finding this hidden gem.

Afterward, I accompanied my husband for some kayaking. He paddled for 20 minutes and came back exhausted. Then we tried the Flower Sea Slide (rainbow slide)—moderate speed, very safe. Finally, we rode to the highest point in Taiping Lake: Cloud Top 1680, a windswept observation deck café. On the way out, we encountered a big goose. Lele was fascinated, but the goose tried to bully a baby getting a diaper change. The dad chased it away. Hilarious.

Then we came across a stunning field of rapeseed flowers...

Final Thoughts: Why We Love This Kind of "Reverse Travel"

During the May Day holiday, while most people flocked to popular attractions, we chose a small city, a lake, and a wooden cabin. No crushing crowds, no endless queues. Just the wind whistling past as we rode our scooter, the silly joy of skipping stones by the lake, and the genuine, simple advice from restaurant aunties telling us not to overorder.

The meaning of travel is never about how many sights you see, but about those moments that make you forget time. Like the focused look in Lele's eyes as he splashed in the rain. Like the laughter when my husband shouted "Don't slow down!" on the scooter. Like the pure contentment of eating fish while gazing at the lake through a wooden window frame.

Next holiday, why not try a "reverse travel" trip? Go to a less crowded place, stay at a hotel with great views, and eat at restaurants recommended by locals. You'll find that traveling away from the crowds is what a real vacation is all about.

Yunnan, we'll be back.