2015: Shuanglang, 4 Days & 3 Nights — My First Spontaneous Trip

Prologue: One Photo, One Reckless Impulse

Have you ever had one of those moments? You've got everything planned out—flights booked, hotels confirmed—and then, the night before you leave, a single photo on your social feed makes you throw it all away and head off in a completely different direction?

In early 2015, my equally "unhinged" travel buddy and I had already locked in a Shanghai food tour—from longtang (alleyway) soup dumplings to French cuisine on the Bund, from trendy cafés to late-night street stalls. We'd even started listing dishes in our notes three days in advance. Then a set of photos from Shuanglang hit our feeds like a pebble dropped into still water, shattering every plan in an instant: the deep green of Cangshan Mountain, the mirror-like surface of Erhai Lake, sunlight filtering through clouds onto cobblestone streets—that raw, unpolished yet tender beauty. Without a second thought, we canceled the Shanghai trip and booked flights from Beijing to Dali.

I'm almost embarrassed to admit it: after countless trips over the years, I'd always sworn I'd write travelogues, but laziness always won. Little did I know that this impromptu Shuanglang getaway would become the beginning of my very first travel journal.

DAY 1: Shuanglang · Haijiao Yunshu Inn | A Night Without Power, Strangers Around a Charcoal Fire

A Rain Shower Shatters the "Spring Year-Round" Illusion

As our plane touched down in Dali, a fine rain was falling outside. Bundled in my down jacket and snow boots, I couldn't help grumbling: "Spring all year round"? The temperature wasn't much different from Beijing! But the damp air outside the airport carried a crisp, herbal scent that perked me right up.

The easiest way from Dali Airport to Shuanglang is to have your hotel arrange a private car—cost: 180 yuan. Not cheap, but for two people dragging suitcases with zero clue about local transport, it was the safest bet. Especially in the rain—without a car, we'd have been stranded. I'd worried about getting a shady driver, but the middle-aged man put us at ease the moment he spoke. He cheerfully introduced us to Dali's customs and culture, from the Bai people's Third Month Fair to the fishing seasons on Erhai Lake, from the best rice noodle joints to the hidden alleyways preserving old crafts—a walking travel guide, basically.

Shuanglang's "Last Mile"

Shuanglang is a small fishing village, and cars can only go as far as the pedestrian street entrance. From there, you switch to the village's electric cart, which drops you off near a narrow alley. The final stretch is on foot—dragging your suitcase over bumpy cobblestones, past weathered Bai-style houses with peeling paint, the occasional cat poking its head over a wall to give you a lazy once-over.

The inn we stayed at, "Haijiao Yunshu" (roughly "Horizon Clouds at the Sea's Edge"), was one of the trip's biggest surprises. Our sea-view room had windows that opened directly onto Erhai Lake—the view was so expansive it made you want to scream. The decor was tasteful too: solid wood furniture, hand-dyed batik fabrics, watercolors by local artists on the walls—every corner showed the owner's care. The proprietor was a hearty guy, and we later learned he's not only a great host but also an excellent photographer.

That Night, We Gathered Around a Charcoal Fire Drinking "Wind, Flowers, Snow, Moon"

But Shuanglang gave us a rude awakening on day one—not only was it raining, but the power went out too. Pitch black in the room, electric blanket useless, kettle dead. Two freezing "crazy women" had to grope their way to the front desk for candles. The owner handed us flashlights and candles, thoughtfully boiled some water, and eventually just invited us to join him by the fire.

And so began an impromptu "fireside chat." A Shanghai guy pretending to be from Taiwan, a group of travelers from Sichuan, the owner, and the two of us—all huddled around a charcoal fire, drinking local beer called "Feng Hua Xue Yue" (Wind, Flowers, Snow, Moon), chatting about everything under the sun. The Sichuan group, on their fourth stay here, whipped up egg-fried rice and chicken stew with mushrooms for a midnight snack in the dark. In that moment, the whole inn took on the vibe of a youth hostel—the kindness of strangers felt especially warm in the darkness.

We talked until midnight, and just as everyone was heading back to their rooms, the lights came back on! The whole inn erupted in cheers, people running to share the news—it felt a thousand times better than if the power had never gone out. We were still damp and chilly, but that night around the charcoal fire became one of the trip's most precious memories.

DAY 2: Shuanglang–Dali | Rainbows, the Old Town, and Postcards

The Forecast Said Snow, But We Got a Rainbow

The weather report predicted snow for Shuanglang on the 19th, so we'd planned to visit Dali's Old Town and see the white walls and dark tiles under a dusting of white. But when we opened the curtains, sunlight flooded in, and in the distance, at the foot of the mountain, a faint rainbow hung in the air. That kind of "plans change, and it's wonderful" surprise—that's the magic of travel.

Dali Old Town: Commercial, But the Scenery Along the Way is Beautiful

Honestly, Dali's Old Town didn't wow me. Whether on the main streets or in the alleys, the commercialism was a bit overwhelming—shops selling silver jewelry, flower-pastry cakes, and ethnic costumes everywhere, pretty much the same as Lijiang's Old Town. But the drive there and back was stunning—Cangshan Mountain on the left, Erhai Lake on the right, Bai villages scattered across the fields, an occasional egret lifting off from a rice paddy. It looked like a traditional ink-wash painting come to life.

We wandered the old town, had a steaming bowl of ersi (rice noodles), and wrote a few postcards to friends. It was pleasant enough. No snow-covered Dali, but the old town under the sun had its own charm.

DAY 3: Shuanglang — Scooter Tour Around Erhai Lake

50 Yuan a Day of Freedom, 39 km/h of Bliss

Before coming to Shuanglang, I'd read travel guides and found that renting a scooter was practically a must-do around Erhai Lake—you could ride up the mountain to watch the sunset, cruise along the lake, visit markets, check out hotels... So on day three, we decided to spend the whole day on a scooter.

Rental cost: 50 yuan per day. Round trip from Shuanglang to Xiaoputuo Island was 15 kilometers, and we used only half the battery. Our test showed a top speed of 39 km/h—but safety first, we kept it around 20 km/h.

"Wind of Xiaguan, Flowers of Shangguan, Snow of Cangshan, Moon of Erhai"

Xiaoputuo was our destination, but the scenery along the way was the real gift. Erhai Lake on one side, Cangshan Mountain at our backs, blue sky and white clouds reflected on the water—the phrase "poetic and picturesque" suddenly became tangible. That day, we finally felt the warmth of Yunnan's "Spring City"—the sun was pleasantly warm, but the moment we hopped on the scooter, the wind turned biting, and our down jackets felt flimsy.

Two "crazy women" instantly transformed into photographers and poets, oozing artsy vibes. We stopped by the roadside to take photos, stared blankly at the lake, even improvised a few doggerel verses—can't remember a single line now, but that feeling of utter freedom is unforgettable.

A Date with Seagulls at Xiaoputuo

Xiaoputuo is famous for its seagulls. These little guys aren't too afraid of people—if you crouch down and approach slowly, with a bit of luck, you can snap a photo with them. It was molting season, so the seagulls looked all fluffy, round-headed, and ridiculously cute. Sometimes they'd glide just above the water's surface, sometimes flap their wings frantically fighting over food, bringing endless life to the serene lake.

Sunset and Stargazing: Two Faces of Shuanglang's Beauty

Erhai Lake isn't as delicate as West Lake in Hangzhou, nor as vast as Qinghai Lake, but it has a unique, ever-changing quality—gentle in the morning, passionate at noon, profound at dusk. Turn your head, and the eyes of the lake seem to shimmer; round a corner, and you find a hidden paradise. As the sun set, "mountains mirrored in slanting sunlight, sky touching water"—that's probably the closest description.

We didn't catch Shuanglang's most beautiful sunset, but we saw the most incredible starry sky. The owner showed us his astrophotography—the Milky Way stretching across the sky, stars scattered like crushed diamonds. In Beijing, I hadn't seen such a clear night sky in years. The last time was on my high school track field, anxious about college entrance exams. Now, seeing it again, my mindset was completely different—no longer worrying about scores and rankings, just soaking in the peace and vastness.

DAY 4: Shuanglang–Beijing | The Final Market and Two Coconuts

Wandering Inns, Visiting the Market, Two Big Coconuts to Start the Day

On our last day, we decided to check out some of Shuanglang's famous inns. Honestly, even if we'd stayed a week, I could still think of plenty to do—like zoning out by the lake, joining a fisherman on his boat, or hunting for local ingredients at the market. But we had a flight to catch in the afternoon, so we made the most of our remaining time: browsing the market and visiting a few small inns with different styles.

At the market, we bought two big coconuts, and that's when our day truly began. The coconut water was sweet, the flesh tender and smooth. Sitting by the roadside, sipping and watching the locals go about their business, I suddenly felt that the meaning of travel isn't about how many sights you see—it's about these ordinary, real moments.

Summary: Cangshan, Erhai, Wind, Flowers, Snow, Moon, Two Crazy Women, and That's It

If I had to sum up our Shuanglang trip in one sentence: Cangshan Mountain, Erhai Lake, Wind, Flowers, Snow, Moon, two crazy women, and that's it. Simple, but enough.

Special Feature: Eating in Shuanglang — A Foodie's Ultimate Erhai Feast

Hole-in-the-Wall Eateries Beat the Hype

When it comes to food in Shuanglang, it's Yunnan cuisine, or more specifically, Bai cuisine. Before coming, I'd looked up many recommended restaurants online, but for various reasons, we never made it to any of them. The random little places we found on the street, however, surprised us—some I can't even remember the names of, but the flavors are unforgettable.

As two ultimate foodies, our mission was simple: eat every single sea creature from Erhai Lake! Sour-spicy fish soup, stir-fried clams, river snails, sea vegetables... we checked them off one by one, each dish carrying the unique sweetness of the lake. The fish soup had a tangy, spicy broth and tender fish; the clams were stir-fried with garlic and chili until fragrant, so delicious you'd lick your fingers; the snails were firm and chewy, paired with mint leaves for a refreshing, palate-cleansing finish.

Erkuai (Rice Cakes): A Chance Encounter with an Old Lady

By Erhai Lake, erkuai (grilled rice cakes) is a must-try. We sampled several places, but the best was from a stall run by an elderly woman on our first day in Shuanglang. The outer layer was slightly crispy from grilling, the inside soft and chewy, slathered with sweet and spicy sauces—one bite and the aroma exploded in your mouth. The old lady didn't say much, but her smile was warm. She flipped the rice cakes expertly while chatting with her neighbor in the Bai dialect. That kind of everyday, lived-in atmosphere was far more reassuring than any trendy café.

Sometimes, fate works like that—you don't need to plan. You just stumble upon things. Maybe travel should be the same way.

Final Thoughts: The Meaning of Travel Lies in the Unexpected

It's been a while since I returned from Shuanglang, but the memories are still vivid: the charcoal fire on that blackout night, the seagulls by the lake, the wind on the scooter, the old lady's erkuai... They're like pearls strung together, forming the brightest strand of my 2015 memories.

If this trip taught me anything, it's this: sometimes, the best plan is no plan at all. Just go, and let the unexpected beauty find you.

If Shuanglang has piqued your interest, feel free to check out my other travelogues:

• [2015·Seoul] A Graduation Trip I Didn't Want to End
• [2015·USA] A Graduation Trip I Didn't Want to End, Part 1 (Seattle · Salt Lake City · Yellowstone)
• [2015·USA] A Graduation Trip I Didn't Want to End, Part 2 (Great Lakes · Niagara Falls · Chicago)
• [2015·USA] A Graduation Trip I Didn't Want to End, Part 3 (Route 66 · San Diego)
• [2017 Spring Festival·Chiang Mai, Thailand] Cherry Blossom Season · Eight Days in a Small Town
• [2017·Chongqing] Reunion After Graduation: "Eating Our Way Through Your World"
• [2017·Guilin] Our Itinerary? We Don't Have One! Sunrise, Sunset, Sunrise, Sunset...
• [2017·UK] Save Up, Quit Your Job, and Travel? (Scotland · Lake District · England)
• [2018 Spring Festival·Italy] Sicily—The Ball on Italy's Boot

This travelogue is copyrighted by @Da Rui. For any form of reproduction, please contact the author.