2023, Meeting Spring in Luoping: A Journey Three Years Overdue and a Golden Awakening

Before Departure: Why Do We Crave Travel So Much?

Three years of the pandemic, like an invisible wall, had confined our steps within a narrow space. When the spring of 2023 finally swept in with the breath of hope, I suddenly realized that the last time I had boarded a plane was January 2020. Three years—three whole years. China is so vast, and I truly wanted to go see it.

There was another voice that pushed me to embark on this journey. At some point, the phrase "Luoping rapeseed flowers" had quietly taken root in my mind like a seed. Some say it is one of China's most beautiful rapeseed flower destinations—more magnificent than Wuyuan, more refined than Menyuan. More importantly, it is the earliest-blooming rapeseed flower in China: while the north is still shivering in the lingering chill of early spring, Luoping has already spread out a golden ocean. This claim piqued my curiosity. Is it really that beautiful? Only by going could I have a say.

And of course, there was a simpler reason. At over fifty years of age, we need work, but we also need release. Tension and relaxation—that is the way of life, and also a way to recharge ourselves. So, Teacher Wang and I, two travelers "searching for spring," set off on a whim.

Departure: An Unexpected Upgrade and a Long-Lost Freedom

From Beijing to Kunming: The First Flight in Three Years

At six in the morning, Beijing Daxing Airport was still asleep. Standing in the terminal, I felt an indescribable emotion—the last time I had departed from here was three years ago. However, the first hurdle of the trip hit me hard: my originally booked 8:30 China Southern flight was canceled without warning, rescheduled to 10:30. The entire day's plan was instantly disrupted, and I was a bit frustrated.

My son gave me a suggestion over the phone: "Dad, check the business class on the early morning flights; sometimes the price difference isn't big." I checked—a 7:15 China Eastern flight had a difference of less than 300 yuan between economy and business class. I snapped it up without hesitation. Walking into the China Eastern VIP lounge, the variety of breakfast options lifted my spirits. A great trip, starting with a VIP breakfast—perhaps this was the compensation for the canceled flight.

Before boarding, through the floor-to-ceiling windows, I caught the sunrise. Golden light spilled across the runway, and I suddenly felt that this journey was destined to be extraordinary.

It felt so good to stretch my legs. A cup of rich juice, a few slices of fruit—pure comfort. Three years later, I was finally flying again.

Picking Up the Car in Kunming: A Rental Experience That Began with an "Oops"

For this trip, I tried a new model: plane plus rental car. Following a friend's recommendation, I booked in advance with Shenzhou Car Rental, picking up and returning the car at Kunming Changshui Airport. As it turned out, this decision was incredibly wise.

But the first hiccup came quickly. I had never driven a Japanese car before, and this Nissan Teana had a foot brake! When I started it, the dashboard displayed "Brake system issue," and I was instantly baffled. I had to ask the staff for help before I could get moving. A big "oops" was written all over my face. Looking back, this is also one of the joys of travel—you always encounter things that catch you off guard but make you laugh in hindsight.

Day 01: Golden Chicken Peak Cluster — The First Shock of Luoping

Driving 240 Kilometers, All for That One Window

From Kunming to Luoping, a 240-kilometer drive, the scenery was picturesque all the way. Arriving at Golden Chicken Village, we checked into the "Spring Garden" guesthouse. When booking, the price of the room with a window view gave me pause, but the moment I stepped into the room, all doubts vanished—outside the window, a golden sea of rapeseed flowers stretched to the horizon, dotted with cone-shaped hills in the distance. A room with a view, truly worthy of its name.

The guesthouse conditions were decent for a village. No air conditioning, because the village's electrical capacity was insufficient. But the thoughtful electric blanket made the damp, cold southern nights warm. These two days in Luoping were really quite chilly.

Golden Chicken Peak Cluster: A Visual Feast of One of China's Most Beautiful Peak Forests

The Golden Chicken Peak Cluster, located 12 kilometers northeast of Luoping county town, is the core scenic area of Luoping's peak forest and rapeseed flower sea. This area features a karst landscape wonder, with hundreds of cone-shaped hill clusters arranged in an orderly manner across the basin, earning it the title of "One of China's Five Most Beautiful Peak Forests."

Ticket price: 20 yuan; electric cart ticket: 30 yuan. A tip from experience: you absolutely must buy the electric cart ticket—must, must, must! Because the scenic area is so vast, walking will make you question your life choices.

Hurrying along, we entered the scenic area at 4 PM. We headed straight for the core—Old Tip Mountain Observation Deck. From the foot to the top of the mountain, 700 steps. I took out my trekking pole. According to professionals, a trekking pole can save 15% of your energy. With every turn, the scenery changed.

Standing on the top of Old Tip Mountain, overlooking the entire Golden Chicken Peak Cluster, the shock was beyond words. In a golden ocean, hundreds of pyramid-like hill mounds were scattered like stars. Mist filled the air, and the sky was somewhat gloomy—the sunset might not be visible. But looking far into the distance from this height, there were no regrets. We were appreciating this unique beauty.

Teacher Wang discovered a scene: trees, rocks, people, and the sea of rapeseed flowers formed a perfect painting. An unknown elderly man from the south helped capture our silhouettes. At that moment, we were immersed in this golden world, unable to tear ourselves away.

Someone once said that the pink of Yunnan's peach blossoms and the gold of its rapeseed flowers are a perfect match. Observing it firsthand, it was indeed true. Elegant Chinese-style clothing pairs well with rapeseed flowers. Shooting portraits from a high angle is usually a photography taboo, but we tried it, and the effect was surprisingly good. A level angle, on the other hand, added a sense of intimacy. Looking far from a height and looking close at eye level are just two ways to appreciate rapeseed flowers—neither is superior; only the feeling differs.

Back at the guesthouse, a bowl of hot rice noodles brought a wave of warmth. The owner's surname was She, the same She as in "She Tai Jun" (a famous historical figure). The She family rice noodles tasted good, though they were missing a bit of the pickled vegetables from Midu—a comment from a foodie who happens to be a Yunnan son-in-law.

The guesthouse's 5th-floor rooftop terrace was a great spot for sightseeing. In the twilight, the distant Golden Chicken Peak Cluster took on a mysterious aura.

Day 02: Majie — Seeing Flowers Through the Mist, Another Kind of Beauty

Dasule Observation Deck: Regret and Expectation at the Cloud Terrace Fields

Today's plan was the terraced fields of Majie and the Screw Fields of Niujie. Majie Town is located 48 kilometers north of Luoping county town, in a high-altitude cold mountain area. The mountain roads are narrow and winding, requiring an hour and a half by self-drive.

Setting off in the morning, the sky was still overcast. Water stains on the car showed it had rained again last night. I grumbled inwardly: Luoping's weather was really something—if it's going to be overcast, at least let the fog be lighter. From Golden Chicken Village to Dasule Observation Deck in Majie, the total distance was 51 kilometers. The navigation showed 1 hour and 20 minutes, but it took nearly two hours. Thick fog, rugged mountain roads—it was truly tough.

Dasule Observation Deck is a recently emerging attraction. Standing on the high boardwalk, we were supposed to enjoy the magnificent view of the rapeseed flower terraces—but the visibility was extremely low. We could only "see flowers through the mist." Judging by the houses and roads of Dasule Village, its economic development lagged noticeably behind Niujie, which we had just passed.

Through the layers of thick fog, only the nearest patch of rapeseed flowers was visible—a testament to the visibility. As we left, we saw a mural on a wall, depicting the most beautiful version of the rapeseed flower terraces under a blue sky and white clouds. My mood was mixed, but I still held hope for the next stop.

Scenery on the Road: Unexpected Joy and a Safety Warning

On the way back from Majie, the fog lifted slightly. Terraced rapeseed fields appeared by the roadside, as if the heavens were compensating us for our disappointment at Dasule. There was no designated parking spot, so we pulled over as close to the edge as possible. Getting out, I broke into a cold sweat—the right front wheel was already on the edge of a ditch. Too dangerous. A reminder during travel: never forget safety while enjoying the scenery.

Since we couldn't look far from a height, we opted to appreciate the beauty of yellow and green up close. Teacher Wang got some great shots, and so did I. Changing perspectives, we took in the view from an observation deck on the Kunming-to-Luoping expressway. This wasn't the terraced fields of Majie or the Screw Fields of Niujie; it was more like a giant palette dominated by yellow, green, and gray. Mist swirled around, making it feel like a fairyland.

Pork Trotter Hotpot: One Bowl of Rice Healed All Regrets

Our next destination was the Niujie Screw Fields. As we drove past, we saw the same thick fog, making it hard to find any trace of the Screw Fields. Was this day in Luoping really going to end in defeat?

By then it was noon, and we were starving. While preparing my itinerary, I had learned that Luoping's local pork trotter hotpot is very famous. We found a restaurant at a corner and decided to solve the hunger problem first. With permission, we stepped into the kitchen—and outside the window was this view. It turned out that the beauty of Luoping's rapeseed flowers is everywhere.

The pork trotter hotpot came with four greens: "mahao" (a local wild vegetable), rapeseed flowers, pea shoots, and vegetable stems. The sliced pork trotter paired with the special dipping sauce was incredible! I ended up eating four bowls of rice—a personal record in years. With the hotpot and rice in my stomach, my body warmed up, and my mood improved significantly.

Around the restaurant, rapeseed fields and village houses blended perfectly. As for happiness, sometimes it's hard to find, and sometimes it comes easily. The old man smoking his water pipe was happy; we were happy savoring the food; the restaurant owner was happy after making a sale; and encountering breathtaking scenery during a trip is equally a source of happiness.

The fog seemed to have thinned considerably. The legendary Niujie Screw Fields were less than a kilometer away. We walked.

Niujie Screw Fields: A Masterpiece of Nature and Human Hands

Niujie, north of Luoping town, is about 10 kilometers from the county seat. This location is actually called Jiulong Town, but locals still use its old name—Niujie. The rapeseed flowers here are planted in terraced fields. Viewed from above, the terraces follow the mountain contours in spiraling rings, resembling screws—hence the name "Screw Fields."

The Screw Fields and the Golden Chicken Peak rapeseed fields are completely different in style. Golden Chicken Peak feels grand and magnificent, while here it is delicate and refined. The Screw Fields are a sunken, vortex-like multi-layered circular terrace, with unique shapes and graceful lines. The terraces are ring-shaped, looking from afar like the threads of screws.

The so-called "Screw Fields" are a natural landscape formed by beaded karst sinkhole geological features. In limestone areas, bowl-shaped or funnel-shaped depressions have a circular or elliptical planar form. Along the circumference, terraced fields rise in rings, mostly covered with blooming rapeseed flowers, like countless golden dragons coiled around. This is a masterpiece of nature and human effort—nature created this peculiar beaded funnel karst surface, and through the hard work of farmers in cultivation, combined with Luoping's得天独厚 climate, this magnificent wonder was born.

Without bright sunshine, there was a small regret. But the Screw Fields under the clouds and mist had a unique charm. I tried a time-lapse shot, but the result was unsatisfactory. The unpredictable shifts of the clouds and mist didn't come through well. Still, the misty scenes under a telephoto lens and the wide-angle view from a phone each had their own merits.

As I left, a thought struck me: as a highly distinctive star attraction, the infrastructure here needs improvement—the observation deck's renovation, parking lot improvements, and promotion of surrounding dining options all have significant room for growth.

Day 02: Golden Chicken Village Terraces — An Unexpected Surprise and the "Train to Spring"

Back at the guesthouse, I discovered a new scratch on the car's hood. I contacted the rental company and was told insurance covered it—no need to worry. I breathed a sigh of relief.

The guesthouse owner drove us in his van into the village's terraced fields. Unlike the Golden Chicken Peak Cluster, this place had very few people and was a hidden gem. Before, I had always described the most beautiful rapeseed flowers as "stretching as far as the eye can see." Today, I realized that overly flat seas of rapeseed flowers can seem a bit monotonous. The true beauty lies in the interweaving of yellow and green, with clear layers.

We had essentially entered the heart of the rapeseed fields. The village roads were too narrow—only one lane—so driving in ourselves would have been risky. In the rearview mirror, the faintly visible van was our temporary ride. Following the road downhill, the distant, half-hidden village houses, combined with the Golden Chicken peaks and the rapeseed terraces, formed a perfect picture. At this moment, it felt like Wuyuan.

It wasn't a sunny day, but we had found the most beautiful scenery in our hearts. Zooming in on the distant Golden Chicken peaks, with mist rising, gave a unique feeling. I thought this would be the last panoramic shot of this spot, but there was another surprise—

A green train, running from Kunming to Nanning, passed through the rapeseed flower sea. Green trains are so rare these days, evoking nostalgia. The guesthouse owner said that even locals rarely encounter the green train crossing this scene. We were incredibly lucky. We called it the "Train to Spring" for now. We encountered the train around 4 PM—whether it runs on a schedule, I don't know.

White walls and gray tiles gave a hint of Hui-style architecture. Leaving this stunning little village was genuinely hard. We weren't the only ones reluctant to go. Let this beautiful photo of the rapeseed terraces make up for the disappointment at Majie.

Day 02: Scenic Views, Tea, and Photo Review — Winding Down the Day

Ending the day's journey, we returned to the guesthouse and once again admired the view from the window. The most fitting song at this moment was "Outside the Window."

A travel tea set, a brew of fragrant Golden Jun Mei tea—and the day's ups and downs, the day's fatigue, all melted away. The pattern on this tea set matched the scenery outside the window perfectly. I've tried many types of portable tea sets during travels, and this "quick-cup" set worked best—elegant and compact.

I took out my laptop to look at the photos and summarize the day's gains. Outside the window, a passing minibus looked like a flowing painting. Gazing at the beautiful view, a question suddenly came to mind: The guesthouses in Golden Chicken Village couldn't install air conditioning due to insufficient electricity. For tourism to develop, can the relevant authorities act a little faster?

Afterword: Regrets and Gains Are Both Part of Travel's Meaning

On this trip to Luoping, I didn't see blue skies and white clouds, couldn't fully appreciate the true face of Majie's cloud terrace fields, and didn't encounter a stunning sunrise or sunset. It might seem that regrets outweighed gains. But that's not the case.

Among the world's top ten luxuries recently selected by the Washington Post are "a free, joyful, and loving heart," "the courage to travel the world with a backpack," "frequent return to nature," and "enjoying a life with your own space and time"... During this journey, we gained so much:

We have a free and joyful heart, full of anticipation for the mountains and waters here; We have a desire to travel, even if the time is short; We can eat and sleep well, full of energy; We are in close contact with nature; We are enjoying our own space and time, even if briefly...

Perhaps we don't possess all of these, but we are gaining more. This, too, is a kind of happiness.

In the spring of 2023, in Luoping, I understood one thing: The meaning of travel lies not in what you see, but in what you feel. Even without blue skies and white clouds, even without sunrise and sunset, as long as your heart is free, spring will always be by your side.

Next time, I will come again. For the Golden Chicken Peak Cluster under a blue sky, for the Screw Fields in the sunshine, and for that "Train to Spring."

Quick Reference Information

• Golden Chicken Peak Cluster: Admission 20 yuan, electric cart 30 yuan (highly recommended). Old Tip Mountain Observation Deck offers the best panoramic view; reaching the top requires climbing 700 steps.
• Niujie Screw Fields: Free to view; private parking 10 yuan per car. Best shooting times: 10-11 AM or 4-5 PM.
• Majie Dasule Observation Deck: An emerging attraction, ideal for panoramic terrace shots, but mountain roads are rugged—drive with caution.
• Transportation Advice: Plane plus rental car is the best option. Pick up and return the car at Kunming Changshui Airport; self-drive to Luoping takes about 3 hours.
• Accommodation Recommendation: The "Spring Garden" guesthouse in Golden Chicken Village has rooms with excellent window views, but no air conditioning (electric blankets are provided as an alternative).
• Food Recommendations: Pork trotter hotpot with four greens (wild vegetable "mahao," rapeseed flowers, pea shoots, vegetable stems), She family rice noodles. Luoping pork has the taste of childhood.