A Five-Day Self-Drive Journey Through Lijiang and Lugu Lake, Yunnan | My Seven-Year Promise to Lugu Lake

Some places are destined to be revisited at different stages of life, with a different heart. For me, Lugu Lake is exactly that kind of place.

Seven years ago, I set foot on this land for the first time, deeply moved by its tranquility and purity. In that moment, I made a silent wish: if I ever met the person I wanted to spend my life with, I would bring him back here. Three years, five years, seven years—no matter how long it took, I would keep this promise. Now, that seven-year promise has come true. And what moves me even more is that the person standing by my side is still the same one who watched the lake with me seven years ago.

I. Before We Set Off: Why Lugu Lake?

Lugu Lake sits on the border between Ninglang County in Yunnan Province and Yanyuan County in Sichuan Province. At an elevation of about 2,690 meters (8,825 feet), it is China's third deepest freshwater lake and the highest-altitude lake in Yunnan. Its waters are crystal clear, surrounded by mountains on all sides. With nearly ten months of sunshine each year, it truly lives up to its nickname—"Mirror of the Sky."

What makes it even more special is the Mosuo people who live here. They have preserved the traditions of a matriarchal society, earning this region the name "Kingdom of Women." Mosuo culture, the unique "walking marriage" custom, and bonfire gatherings make this lake not only naturally beautiful but culturally rich as well.

From June to September each year, a small white flower called 海藻花 (algae flower), known locally as "water-nature flower" (水性杨花), blooms across the lake's surface. These flowers float on the azure water like stars scattered across the night sky, so beautiful they almost don't seem real.

II. Trip Overview: Five Days, Four Nights, Driving Around the Lake

We chose to drive ourselves this time. First, it was safer during the pandemic. Second, our experience with a group tour seven years ago taught us that only self-driving allows you to truly feel the freedom of this land.

Day 1: Flew from Shenzhen to Lijiang, picked up the car, and headed straight to Shuhe Ancient Town
Day 2: Full-day trip to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Spruce Meadow, Blue Moon Valley)
Day 3: Explored Shuhe in the morning, then drove to Lugu Lake in the afternoon (about 4 hours)
Day 4: Counterclockwise loop around the lake (Daluoshui, Lige Island, Dazu Pier, Goddess Bay)
Day 5: Clockwise loop to complete the circuit (Zouhun Bridge, Caohai, Luowa Pier), returned to Lijiang in the afternoon, visited Yuhu Village and Baisha Ancient Town, flew back to Shenzhen in the evening

III. Lugu Lake: A Reunion Seven Years Later, Still Breathtaking

Daluoshui Village: The Eternal Mirror of the Sky

When I first came to Daluoshui seven years ago, it was overcast. The lake looked gray and dull, and I had even forgotten the name of this village. This time, the weather was perfect. Blue skies and white clouds reflected on the calm water, blurring the line between heaven and earth. Because Daluoshui has a wide, open lake surface with gentle waves, it's especially prone to creating that "Mirror of the Sky" effect. I came here three times—at dusk, in the morning, and at noon—and each time, I saw this dreamlike reflection.

A few things here are worth experiencing: the traditional Mosuo bonfire party, local dishes like 柴火鸡 (firewood-cooked chicken) and 摩梭饵块鸡 (Mosuo-style rice cake chicken), and the sunrise at dawn. If you stay at a lakeside inn, you can open your window to watch the sun slowly rise from behind the mountains, its light flooding the entire lake.

Lige Island: A Symbol of Love

Lige Island is shaped like a heart-shaped lake. Legend has it that if two people in love see this heart together, their love will last forever. Seven years ago, Mr. Frog (now my husband) and I made our wish right here. Now we've returned, and that heart is still there—and we've truly walked through seven years together.

Dazu Pier and Caohai: The Most Romantic at Sunset

I watched the sunset at Caohai seven years ago, and seven years later, I saw it again at Dazu Pier. The clouds transformed from white to orange-red, painting both the sky and the lake in dreamlike hues. A young man sat by the shore with his golden retriever, both of them quietly watching the sunset. In that moment, I thought—this is what happiness looks like.

Water-Nature Flowers: White Spirits on the Lake

In early June, the water-nature flowers had already begun to bloom sporadically. They floated on the crystal-clear lake like pure white clouds. The water quality of Lugu Lake is exceptionally good, with high visibility. These flowers sparkled in the sunlight, as if telling the story of this magical land.

IV. Lijiang: Gentle Moments Beneath the Snowy Mountains

Leaving Lugu Lake, we drove back to Lijiang. The road from Lugu Lake to Lijiang is known as the "Lining Eighteen Bends"—a treacherous mountain route with breathtaking scenery. From barren highlands to fertile plains, it felt like crossing between two worlds.

Spruce Meadow: Yunnan's Little Switzerland

Spruce Meadow lies at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, a high-altitude alpine meadow. Green grasslands, towering snow-capped peaks, and horses leisurely grazing—it felt like being in Switzerland. If you come later in the season, wildflowers will blanket the meadow, making it even more stunning.

Blue Moon Valley: A Dreamlike Gem in the Mountains

The water in Blue Moon Valley is a blue-green color, like a giant gem embedded in the valley. The lake mirrors the snow mountain's reflection, flowers bloom along the shore, and horses come to drink. The beauty here is the kind that makes you want to stop and just stare.

Shuhe Ancient Town: Quieter Than Lijiang Old Town

Shuhe Ancient Town is quieter than Lijiang's Old Town. Gray-tiled roofs, delicate little gardens, and peaceful alleyways all create a sense of relaxation. There are many guesthouses and cafes here, perfect for settling in and soaking up the atmosphere slowly.

Yuhu Village: A Pastoral Hidden Gem Beneath the Snow Mountain

Yuhu Village sits at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and is also known as "Dragon Lady Lake." The grasslands, snow mountain, and lake form a pastoral painting. Herders lead their horses by, you can rest under thousand-year-old trees by the lake, and the snow mountain's reflection shimmers on the water—like a love story told in two parts.

Baisha Ancient Town: The Town Closest to the Snow Mountain

Baisha Ancient Town is even quieter than Shuhe, offering a close-up view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. There's also a manor at the foot of the mountain where you can feed alpacas and see the playful, charming side of the snow mountain.

V. Practical Tips: A Self-Drive Guide

About Driving: The road from Lijiang to Lugu Lake isn't terrible, but it's full of winding mountain roads. Don't drive too fast; plan for at least 4 hours. You might encounter falling rocks or large vehicles along the way, so stay alert. The road around Lugu Lake is in good condition, with plenty of parking, most of it free.

About Accommodation: For Lugu Lake, I recommend staying in Daluoshui Village or on Lige Island for the best lake views. We stayed at two guesthouses in the Lugu Lake area: 糊涂岁月客栈 (Confused Time Inn) in Daluoshui and 无华艺宿曙灿庄园 (Wuhua Yisu Dawn Manor) near Lige Island. Each had its own character.

About Clothing: The UV rays at Lugu Lake are strong, so protect your skin. This time, I wore 汉服 (Hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing from the Song Dynasty—specifically a Song-style beizi jacket), which was great for photos and easy to move in. If you want to photograph the water-nature flowers, I recommend wearing light-colored clothes.

About Altitude Sickness: Lugu Lake is at 2,690 meters (8,825 feet), so most people won't experience significant altitude sickness. But if you have a history of it, it's wise to prepare oxygen canisters in advance.

About the Pandemic: We traveled during the pandemic, and self-driving allowed us to avoid crowds, making it relatively safe. With fewer tourists at the scenic spots, the experience was excellent.

VI. Final Thoughts: The Seven-Year Promise Is Just the Beginning of Love

Seven years ago, Mr. Frog and I were still friends when we traveled together to Lugu Lake. Neither of us imagined that shortly after this trip, we would become a couple. Seven years later, we got married and came back here to fulfill that long-ago promise.

Lugu Lake has witnessed our journey from friends to lovers, and from dating to marriage. It's more than just a travel destination—it's a symbol of our relationship. I believe this lake will continue to watch over our love, through the next seven years, and the seven after that.

If you, too, want to make a promise with the one you love by the shores of Lugu Lake, then go. Because some places are worth a lifetime of reunions.