A Hidden Treasure: How Life Comes, How We Love — Finding Love by Erhai Lake in Dali (A 2017 Guide During the Sewage Treatment Period)

A couple always on the road spent three days by Erhai Lake during the 2017 sewage treatment campaign, and discovered their own version of love.

Introduction: Why Not Head West to Dali?

"Are you dissatisfied with life, haven't laughed in a long time and don't know why? Since you're unhappy and don't like it here, why not head west to Dali?"

That lyric from the film Breakup Buddies once made countless people yearn for Dali. In the movie, people go to Erhai Lake to find love. For us, though, we were bringing our existing love to Dali, to reaffirm what it looks like.

Wang Xiaobo wrote in The Golden Age: "I can't choose how to be born or how to die, but I can choose how to love and how to live." That line hit us like a hammer, waking us from our city-bound stupor. So we just went — tickets booked, bags packed, three days off, and off to Dali.

Itinerary Overview: A Spontaneous Short Trip

Travel Dates: June 2–4, 2017 (3 days)
Cost per person: Approximately 1,500 RMB (about $210 USD)
Travelers: Couple

Transportation Tips

Chengdu → Dali
We booked half a day in advance. Not the cheapest option, but the spontaneity was worth it: - Outbound: Air China CA4415, 06:35 Chengdu–08:25 Dali, 1,200 RMB for two - Return: China Eastern MU5864, 15:40 Dali–17:10 Chengdu, 1,680 RMB for two

Getting to Chengdu Airport on a Budget
A cheaper option than a taxi: Rent a "Panda" shared car to the Baigang International Hotel parking lot near the airport, then take a 9 RMB (about $1.30) Didi ride to the terminal. Takes about ten minutes — simple, cheap, and stress-free.

Getting Around Dali
We rented a car through Yihaizu for three days, and the price was surprisingly reasonable. With a car, the whole trip became free — stop when you want, go when you want. That's the soul of a road trip.

DAY 1: East Erhai Loop — Airport → Wase → Shuanglang

About Photo Spots: Go With the Flow

There are plenty of online maps showing photo spots along Erhai Lake — white tables, transparent bubbles, kayaks, Xiaoputuo Island... We skipped every single one of those "Instagram-famous" spots. Simple reason: Too many people, and the photos all look the same.

We chose a more "wild" approach — drive until something catches your heart, then stop.

A Surprise Encounter: The Local Market

In Yunnan, one of my favorite activities is visiting local markets. Markets hide the most authentic human stories — elderly women selling vegetables, locals haggling, steaming food stalls... Every shot is a living story. If you love street photography, dive into a market.

Scenery Along the Lake Road

The east Erhai loop road is in great condition, but when you first get on it, watch out: Speed cameras everywhere, limit 40 km/h (25 mph)! Further in, the cameras thin out, and the view opens up.

Standing by a cliffside shoal, taking a back-to-back photo or holding hands while looking into the distance — it felt like we were on a road trip around Taiwan. The view was so good it made you want to sing.

Shuanglang: The Real Face During Sewage Treatment

In 2017, Shuanglang was undergoing a government sewage treatment project, meaning all hostels and restaurants were closed. No more sea-view rooms. The streets were being dug up and repaired. But the scenery was still there — just presented differently.

Getting into Shuanglang: Private cars aren't allowed in. You need to park at the entrance and choose: 1. Walking — good if you're fit 2. Local tuk-tuk (小三轮) — 10 RMB/person, takes you to the Fengqing Island ticket office 3. Sightseeing shuttle — 10 RMB/person, but only goes to the entrance area 4. Renting a bike — 30 RMB/hour, a bit pricey

I went with the tuk-tuk. Simple and direct.

Sunset Photo Spot: Outside Shuanglang Police Station

Few people come here, and the view is stunning. You can capture: - Blue sky and white clouds as a backdrop - Jacaranda trees and bougainvillea as accents - A small stone path stretching into the distance - The sunset — note: sunset in Dali is around 7–8 PM, so don't come too early

Fun fact about jacaranda: Its flower language is a bit contradictory — "In despair, waiting for love." But the jacaranda in Yunnan looks full of hope.

DAY 1 Food Recommendations

• Shrimp fritters (虾饼): Two people sharing one is perfect — crispy outside, tender inside. Found at roadside stalls everywhere.
• Stir-fried rice cake slices (炒饵块): Like stir-fried thin rice cakes. Soft and chewy. I loved it.
• Rice noodles (米线): The soul food of Yunnan.
• Stuffed tofu (包浆豆腐): Crispy outside, soft inside, though not as "stuffed" as the name suggests.
• Thin bean jelly (稀豆粉): Found at Shuanglang market. Unfortunately it was savory — I prefer it sweet.
• Braised pork rice noodles (耙肉米线): You add your own seasonings. Fun and tasty.
• Vinegar-pickled chili peppers (醋泡酸辣椒): Highly recommended! Sour and spicy, I went back for seconds.

DAY 2: West Erhai Loop — Old Town → Xizhou

Dali Old Town: Disappointment with a Silver Lining

Honestly, my first impression of Dali Old Town wasn't great — too commercialized. Plus, I've seen too many old towns in Chengdu, so I'm a bit tired of them.

But there was one reason I had to go: Food.

Wandering through the old town, I only looked for three things: dyed fabric, dogs, and food.

I stumbled upon a small Dai ethnic restaurant on Renmin Road. Lemongrass spare ribs (香茅排骨) — two pieces for 25 RMB (about $3.50). Fatty and lean, grilled to perfection, the aroma was intoxicating. A girl next to me quietly asked how it was. I nodded enthusiastically, and she ordered immediately. Paired with a bowl of sour and spicy noodle soup — rich broth, small portion, but absolutely delicious.

Xizhou Haishui Ecological Park: The Disappointing and Surprising Sunset

After finishing work, we rushed to Xizhou and arrived at night. Dropped our bags and sprinted to Haishui Park — but made a huge mistake: We didn't drive.

We took a construction road, covered in dust. Luckily, a kind local gave us a ride.

Important reminder: Haishui Park has opening hours, usually 6:30 AM to 6:30 PM. But if you're still inside after 6:30, the staff won't kick you out. People were still coming out at 8 PM. This is the best spot for sunset clouds.

Since we couldn't get into the park, we crawled through the nearby woods to reach the lake. The closer we got to the water, the softer and wetter the ground became, leaving footprints. In the dark, we were afraid of stepping into marshland, so we held hands and walked carefully.

We took a bottle of "Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon" beer (风花雪月) and dipped it in the water — our way of saying hello to Erhai Lake.

DAY 2 Dinner: Changgui BBQ (长贵烧烤)

From Haishui Park back to Xizhou, you can take a tuk-tuk for 10 RMB/person. The tuk-tuk wound through the quiet old town of Xizhou at night — it was beautiful.

As a foodie, my nose is sharp. Caught a whiff of BBQ and told the driver to stop. Followed the scent to a place — packed with locals. This was definitely a hidden gem.

Yunnan BBQ grills everything. The owner spoke a local dialect, and I couldn't even understand the names of the ingredients. But who cares? Grab first, ask later! I grabbed a whole rack of skewers, plus grilled fish and chives. I even stupidly asked the owner, "Aren't we pigs for eating so much for two people?" He replied flatly, "Not at all." Thinking back, I feel so embarrassed.

Dai-style grilled fish (傣味烤鱼) was the MVP of the night — sour and spicy, perfectly paired with a bottle of Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon beer.

Address tip: In Xizhou, Chengdong Village, Ranyi Alley. Just look for "Changgui."

About the Stars: A Beginner's First Attempt

Yunnan nights have stars, but clouds often block many of them. I don't know how to photograph stars. When I stepped out of the BBQ place and saw the Milky Way, I panicked — posted on social media, called friends, Googled tutorials on the spot.

Finally figured it out, but there was too much light pollution. My first attempt at star photography — this was the best I could do. But seeing that sky with my own eyes was more beautiful than any photo.

DAY 3: Haishui Ecological Park — The Couple's Tree

Sunrise: The Early Bird Gets the View

My phone said sunrise was around 6:20 AM. Some guides said 7 AM. I went with 6:20, but on the way I saw the sky turning red — still a bit late.

Worse, because of road construction, the GPS was useless. We took a huge detour. By the time we reached the lake, it was 7 AM. All we could do was wait for the sun to peek through the clouds.

Surprisingly, we were the first ones there. The entire wetland was so quiet it felt like another world. Walking on marshland as soft as cotton candy, feeding mosquitoes by the swamp, watching the sun slowly climb into the sky.

The park even has cute signs warning you to watch out for reptiles on the path and not to step on them. Squirrels, birds, egrets — a pristine natural scene.

The Couple's Tree: My Favorite Spot of the Trip

Leaving Haishui Park, there's a small path next to the parking lot where locals park horse-drawn carts and feed their horses. There, two trees stand together. They're called "The Couple's Tree."

I thought it was just a passing spot, but it turned out to be where we took the best photos of the entire trip.

A couple is like two trees sharing the same root. Dali, Xizhou old town, beside Haishui — waiting for the wind...

Maybe love is waiting by Erhai Lake. Maybe the story is already happening.

DAY 3 Snack: Xizhou Baba (喜洲粑粑) — My Absolute Favorite

This deserves a special mention. I'd been craving it for three days, and finally got to eat it!

The ones sold in Dali Old Town for 5 RMB (about $0.70) are not authentic. Here, they cost 10 RMB (about $1.40) each. Available in sweet and savory versions. Cooked between two layers of charcoal — intense heat on top, gentle heat below. The crust is as thin as paper, flaky and crispy, while the inside is fluffy and soft. One bite takes you from crisp to tender, layer by layer.

For this alone, the trip to Dali was worth it.

Conclusion: How Life Comes, How We Love

By Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, you're by my side. This summer is different from before.

Three days is short — just enough for two sunrises and one sunset. Three days is also long — long enough for two people to reaffirm each other's existence.

In the sunset of Shuanglang, we stood back-to-back without speaking. Under the stars of Xizhou, we clinked our Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon beers. By the Couple's Tree, we took our favorite photo together.

How life comes, how we love. You don't need a perfect guidebook. You don't need Instagram-famous spots. All you need is a car, a spontaneous heart, and someone willing to walk beside you.

Maybe love is waiting by Erhai Lake — not for you to find it, but for you to discover that it was always there.

Key Takeaways: - In 2017, Erhai Lake was undergoing sewage treatment. Shuanglang's hostels and restaurants were closed, but the scenery was unaffected. - Self-driving is the best way to explore. Watch out for the 40 km/h (25 mph) speed limit on the east loop. - Skip the tourist photo spots — they're crowded and generic. Explore freely instead. - Xizhou Baba must be eaten fresh off the grill. 10 RMB each, sweet or savory. - Haishui Park has opening hours (6:30 AM–6:30 PM), but you can catch sunset clouds in the evening. - Changgui BBQ is in Xizhou, Chengdong Village, Ranyi Alley. Recommended by locals. - The Couple's Tree is next to the Haishui Park parking lot — perfect for couple photos.