A Seven-Day Slow Life in Dali with a 14-Month-Old: An Ultra-Detailed Practical Guide

Foreword: Why Dali?

The June breeze, carrying the coolness of Cangshan Mountain and the moisture of Erhai Lake, blew into the heart of a first-time mother. Since the beginning of the year, I had been longing for that land embraced by the Cangshan range and Erhai Lake, dreaming of finding a lake-view room by the shore, opening the window every morning to endless blue waves, and doing nothing for seven days.

Then, in April, a piece of news shattered my dream—the Erhai Lake environmental cleanup had shut down all lake-view inns along the shore. The plane tickets were already booked, and the itinerary couldn't be changed. So, with a touch of regret, I embarked on this "no lake-view room" Dali trip.

But as it turned out, this trip was far more beautiful than I had imagined. Fewer tourists, a quieter Erhai Lake—we ended up gaining a rare sense of peace. Accompanied by my 14-month-old son Dudu, my husband, and my mother, we spent a full seven days in Dali. This article is both a travelogue and a guide packed with practical tips, hoping to help those about to set off.

I. Things You Need to Know Before Departure

Many worry that the Erhai Lake cleanup would turn Dali into a giant construction site. In reality, aside from not being able to stay in lake-view rooms, the impact is minimal. Specifically:

• All inns and restaurants along the lake are closed
• Small boat rides are not allowed, but large cruise ships operate as usual
• Shuanglang Ancient Town prohibits car traffic before 6 PM, and internal roads are under construction, dusty
• Tourist numbers are significantly lower than previous years—which is actually good news

Our itinerary focused on "leisure vacation." We didn't include Lijiang or Kunming; all seven days were spent in Dali. The team: me, my husband, my mother, and Dudu, who had just turned 14 months old. This was his first plane ride and our first trip with my mother—a milestone.

II. The Seven-Day Slow Travelogue

Day 1: Arriving in the Ancient Town, First Encounter with Dali

Taking a baby on a plane requires thorough preparation. Diapers, formula, bottles, and the household registration book (required for Chinese infants to fly) go without saying. I also packed small snacks and toys to keep him entertained. Fortunately, Dudu behaved well. Though he had occasional fussy moments, we managed to "tame" him, and we landed safely.

For convenience, we stayed in the ancient town for the first three days. After checking in at noon, we found a restaurant run by the Bai ethnic group nearby and ordered local specialties like stir-fried seaweed and mushroom soup. The seaweed, a specialty of Erhai Lake, is smooth and tender—definitely worth trying.

In the afternoon, we strolled through the ancient town with the stroller, wandering from Yuer Road to Yuer Garden. In this small garden, elderly locals were singing and playing violins, their leisurely pace enviable. As dusk fell, we passed Renmin Road and Yangren Street (Foreigner Street). Though it wasn't peak season, there were still quite a few tourists. In the evening, we walked to Cangshan Gate and admired the ancient town's night scenery.

Day 2: Up Cangshan Mountain via Gantong Cableway

The next day was Sunday, and we decided to take the Gantong Cableway up Cangshan Mountain. The ¥90 ticket on Mafengwo doesn't include transportation from Cangshan Gate to the cableway. I recommend buying the ¥95 ticket directly at the tourist center, which includes round-trip transfers—better value.

Reminder: The Gantong Cableway closes at 4 PM, and staff repeatedly emphasize that you must descend before then.

After getting off the cableway, walk up to the Jade Belt Road. The path is flat, and a short walk brings you to a viewing platform. We enjoyed the scenery there and then visited the Qingbi Stream (Clear Jade Stream). On the way down, we rested in the lounge beneath the cableway and ordered a serving of fried potatoes—only ¥10 for a generous bowl. Such a reasonable price for a scenic area, and it tasted great.

Also, bring some snacks like chocolate. My mother felt a bit dizzy and had chest tightness on the mountain, possibly a mild case of altitude sickness. It wasn't cold on the mountain; a light spring/autumn jacket is enough. It can get quite warm when the sun is out.

Back in the ancient town in the afternoon, we visited a restaurant recommended by a friend, "I'm Waiting for You in Dali" (我在大理等你). This place is definitely a网红店 (internet-famous spot) in the ancient town. Their mushroom soup was so delicious that I couldn't stop thinking about it. A branch called "I'm Still Waiting for You in Dali" (我还在大理等你) was being renovated on East Jade Street—it should be open by the time you visit.

In the evening, my mother stayed at the inn with Dudu, while my husband and I rode shared bikes around the ancient town, buying fruit and yogurt at the supermarket. Back on the inn's rooftop terrace, we enjoyed the evening breeze with some beer—utterly delightful.

Day 3: Circling Erhai Lake—A Self-Driving Adventure

Day three was the highlight: circling Erhai Lake. We rented a Buick Excelle from Shenzhou Car Rental for ¥158 per day, plus ¥50 for a collision damage waiver, totaling ¥208. Local car rental companies charge around ¥400, and even electric cars go for ¥250—Shenzhou was clearly the better deal.

Some sections of the West Ring Road were under construction, so we went to nearby Majiuyi Village for photos. Leaving Majiuyi, we drove along the lake, stopping whenever we saw a beautiful view. No tourists photobombing—absolute freedom.

We skipped Xizhou Ancient Town (heard many shops were closed) and headed straight to Haishe Ecological Park (Tongue of the Lake). This place is a paradise for taking stunning photos. With good weather, everything looks great. Leaving Haishe, we drove along the Dali-Lijiang Highway (Dali Line), looking for a place to eat. But all the restaurants along the way were closed. We finally found a Bai-style fish restaurant near the upper end of Erhai Lake. The owner, a native of the lakeside, catches his own fish, shrimp, and snails—super fresh. Highly recommended.

In the afternoon, we drove to Shuanglang, where cars are prohibited before 6 PM. We called our inn for help and learned we could drive north to Dengchuan Toll Station, take the Dali-Lijiang Expressway, and exit at Wase. But since it was already 5 PM, we decided to rest at the Shuanglang service area until 6 PM, finishing off the watermelon and fruit we'd brought.

At 5:50 PM, we set off through Shuanglang's East Ring Road. This section was all dirt roads due to sewage pipe installation—extremely dusty. Many people go to Shuanglang to take photos inside glass balls, but we're not into such internet-famous spots, so we drove straight through. Near the exit of Shuanglang, there's a small platform overlooking Yuji Island, where everyone was looking for Yang Liping's house (a famous Chinese dancer's residence).

The scenery along the East Ring Road was breathtaking. We stopped several times to take photos. At one small platform, there were glass balls and white tables with chairs. A young couple was posing, when suddenly someone came over and demanded ¥10 for using them. With so much free beauty around, why pay for that? We took photos nearby, and they turned out just as great.

Day 4: Erhai Sunrise and Shaxi Ancient Town

At 6:40 AM, my husband and I went to Caicun Pier to watch the sunrise. The sunrise was beautiful, but even more beautiful was the tranquility.

Many people recommend Shaxi Ancient Town, so we decided to check it out. We hired a private car from the ancient town. Be sure to insist the driver takes the expressway, even if you pay the toll yourself. Don't let the driver talk you into taking the national highway. I know this because we were tricked—the mountain roads had so many twists and turns that it made the drive from Chiang Mai to Pai in Thailand seem tame. After two and a half hours of dizzying curves, we were nauseous.

We checked into the May Nian (May Remembrance) Inn in Shaxi. The courtyard was filled with succulents. The owner, Xixi, is a gentle and thoughtful young woman. In the afternoon, we wandered around Shaxi Ancient Town. It's very small—people come here to enjoy leisure. In the evening, we watched the sunset at Yujin Bridge. The view was so beautiful it left us speechless. Recommended by Lonely Planet, Shaxi attracts many foreign tourists.

Day 5: Cultural Performance and Horseback Riding

We had breakfast at the inn in the morning, then took the stroller for a walk through the fields. After lunch at a Bai restaurant, we watched a cultural performance by the Dali Bai Opera Troupe under the ancient stage. There were Bai dances, dramas, skits, and singing—all very impressive.

The afternoon was too hot, so we went back to the inn to rest after an hour of the show. At 4 PM, we went to Yujin Bridge for horseback riding. Our guide, "Little Brother Ma," was great, taking many photos in front of and behind the horse. Our Dudu bounced a few times on the horse and fell asleep for the whole ride.

In the evening, we walked along the river, soaking in the tranquility of the ancient town.

Day 6: Back to Dali, Staying in a Lake-View Room

At 9 AM, we hired a car back to Dali. This time, we took the expressway—smooth and flat, a relief after the previous drive. We checked into the Lihua Yue (Pear Blossom Moon) Lake-View Inn in the Erhai International Eco-City. Since the Erhai cleanup, all lake-view rooms have been closed. This is the only place where you can still see Erhai Lake from the window, with a wetland in front—great environment.

In the afternoon, we went to Walmart in Xiaguan (not recommended—it's not cheap) and then took a walk in the opposite Erhe Forest Park. We returned to the hotel just in time to watch the sunset—radiant and magnificent.

Day 7: Going Home

In the morning, we went out to find breakfast. Under the guidance of the inn owner, Uncle Yuan, we went to the nearby Golden Phoenix Snack Shop and ordered three bowls of rice noodles (米线). They were delicious. The kind owner even cooked a bowl of bone broth noodles for Dudu for free. After eating, we met Uncle Yuan, who took us to the top floor of the apartment building for an even better view. Around 10 AM, Uncle Yuan arranged a driver to take us to the airport—only 15 minutes away. And so, our seven-day trip came to a perfect end.

III. Practical Guide: Accommodation, Transportation, Food, and Entertainment

Accommodation

Dali Ancient Town: Fengxue Gucheng (Wind and Snow Ancient City) Art Hotel

Reasons for choosing this hotel: - Convenient location on Yuer Road, west to Cangshan Gate, east to the ancient town entrance - 5.0 rating on Ctrip, no negative reviews - Free airport pickup for three consecutive nights, saving ¥120 - Newly opened in 2017, modern facilities - Rooms have large sofas, allowing the baby to crawl freely

Surprises after check-in: - All cabinets and beds have rounded corners, safe for babies - Beds and sofas are low, so falls are less severe - Rooftop terrace offers beautiful views of Cangshan Mountain - Friendly staff, always ready to help - Free fruit all day, hot milk at night - Two paid massage chairs, ¥8 for 15 minutes—heavenly after a day of walking

Erhai International Eco-City: Lihua Yue (Pear Blossom Moon)

The Eco-City is the only cluster of inns that didn't close by the lake. Pros: Close to the airport and train station, right by Erhai Lake, lake-view rooms. Cons: Far from the ancient town, relatively quiet.

Reasons for choosing Lihua Yue: - High ratings - Every room has a large bathtub by the balcony - Owner Uncle Yuan is incredibly kind

After check-in, Uncle Yuan took great care of us: no hidden charges in the room, "just ask if you need more water," and recommended using Didi for cheaper taxis. In the morning, he took us to a place for delicious and affordable rice noodles and brought us to the top floor for the view. When checking out, he arranged free airport transfer and specifically told the driver not to charge us.

Shaxi: May Nian (May Remembrance) Inn

The highest-rated inn. The small courtyard is filled with succulents. Owner Xixi is gentle and attentive. There's also a small dog named Dou Nai (Soy Milk). We stayed in the family room "Muzi" (Wood), which is great for babies—no worry about rolling off the bed. It also has a living room decorated with vintage items Xixi collected from various places, rustic yet elegant.

Transportation

By Air: There's only one daily flight from Shanghai to Dali, departing at 7:40 AM with a meal. The return flight departs at 12:20 PM with only a snack box—recommend bringing your own lunch.

Car Rental: Highly recommend Shenzhou or Yihai Car Rental. Cheaper than local rental companies (Buick Excelle ¥208/day vs. local ¥400), more flexible hours (9 AM to next day 9 AM vs. 9 AM to 9 PM), and insured. Consider buying the collision damage waiver—low roadside barriers are easy to scrape. The rental office in the ancient town is opposite Cangshan Gate.

Taxis: Use Didi for Premier (专车)—transparent pricing, no fear of detours. Be cautious with Express (快车).

Private Car: Two ways to get to Shaxi: 1. Take a bus from Dali North Bus Station to Jianchuan County (¥36), then transfer to a minibus to Shaxi 2. Lanlinge Hotel has a shuttle bus; non-guests pay ¥60/person 3. Hire a private car—insist on the expressway, pay the toll yourself, around ¥400

Food

1. I'm Waiting for You in Dali (我在大理等你): Internet-famous mushroom hotpot restaurant. The mushroom soup is so good I had several bowls. Staff are very attentive to babies, checking before adding saffron.

2. Yang Family Banquet (杨府家宴): Near the ancient town inn. Recommended: steamed bow fish (蒸弓鱼).

1. Yang Ji Milk Fan (杨记乳扇): The milk fans sold on the street are terrible, but Yang Ji's, with rose sauce, are highly recommended.

2. Shaxi's Mint Beef and Lemongrass Grilled Fish: The mint infuses the beef, leaving a lasting fragrance. We ate it twice in one day.

3. Seaweed (海菜): A specialty of Erhai Lake, good stir-fried or in soup.

4. Fried Potatoes: At the lounge under the Gantong Cableway on Cangshan Mountain—¥10 for a generous bowl, great value.

Entertainment

Circling Erhai Lake: Approximately 100 km total. Strongly recommend renting a car—shade from the sun, protection from dust, air conditioning, and space for snacks. Many sections of the West Ring Road are narrow alleys between houses; suggest taking the Dali-Lijiang Highway (Dali Line). The East Ring Road hugs the lake and offers the best scenery. The Shuanglang section is closed to cars before 6 PM—plan your timing accordingly.

Cangshan Mountain: The Gantong Cableway closes at 4 PM. It's not cold on the mountain; a light jacket is enough. Bring snacks to prevent altitude sickness.

Shaxi: Perfect for relaxing, strolling, and horseback riding. The Bai Opera Troupe offers free cultural performances.

Haishe Ecological Park (Tongue of the Lake): A great place for stunning photos—free admission.

Final Thoughts: Dali Is Worth a Return Visit

Our seven-day trip to Dali, though without the dream lake-view room, brought far more surprises than expected. With fewer tourists, we could appreciate Dali's beauty more leisurely. Traveling with a 14-month-old had its challenges, but seeing his curious eyes and happy smile made it all worthwhile.

The Erhai Lake cleanup is temporary; Dali's beauty is eternal. If you're planning a trip to Dali, I hope this guide helps. Remember: take the expressway, rent from a reputable company, bring sunscreen, and slow down. Dali will reward you generously.