A Six-Year Promise, A Slow Escape to Dali with My Mother: A Spontaneous Sunshine Journey

When the Wind Blew Us Back to Where We Started, the Real Journey Began

January 2023 marked more than three years since my last trip with my mother. Back in October 2019, we had gone to Canada together. Then a friend sent her some photos of Dali—blue skies, Erhai Lake, golden sunlight. She took one look and said, "Let's go."

Three days later, we were on our way.

This wasn't a meticulously planned vacation. It was a spontaneous whim, pulled along by sunshine and the scent of coffee. Six days and five nights, we didn't rush through attractions or check off trendy spots. We just walked slowly, sat quietly, and let time drift away on beautiful things under Dali's sun. If you're thinking of taking your parents on a trip that isn't exhausting, rushed, or stressful, this travelogue might give you some ideas.

Day One: An "Airborne Detour" from Chengdu to Dali

At 8:50 AM, we took off from Chengdu Shuangliu Airport. According to plan, we'd land in Dali in an hour and a half. But just as the pilot announced "ten minutes to landing," we circled in the air for 25 minutes, only to hear: "Due to strong winds at the destination, we cannot land. We are returning to Chengdu."

So we flew back.

Mom didn't complain. She just said, "Then let's take another route." We immediately booked tickets from Tianfu Airport to Kunming, then took a high-speed train from Kunming to Dali. After a full day of scrambling, we finally reached our hotel close to 10 PM. But seeing Mom's face—no trace of fatigue, just a smile—made it all worth it.

Friendly reminder: From November to April each year, Yunnan experiences its windy season, especially February to April when winds peak. If you're flying to Dali during this time, leave plenty of buffer time for connecting flights or trains. When we landed in Kunming, the plane bounced like a roller coaster—buckle up tight.

Day Two: March Street Market, Old Town Memories, Coffee in the Sun

March Street: A Thousand-Year Market, A Market for a Thousand Years

It was the 23rd day of the lunar month, exactly the market day at March Street. "A thousand-year market, a market for a thousand years"—you only truly understand that saying when you walk into that long, bustling lane. From 10 AM to 5 PM, both sides were lined with food, goods, and clothing. We bought a pound of Sunshine Rose grapes (8 yuan per pound), two bottles of oil-preserved mushrooms (20 yuan each), and tried a cup of two-yuan "cold shrimp" jelly (liang xia)—taste was average, but the atmosphere was perfect.

Dali Old Town: The Same Door, 23 Years Later

In October 1999, my mother brought me to Yunnan, and we took a photo together at the north gate of Dali Old Town. Twenty-three years later, we stood at the same door, nearly the same spot, and took another picture. In the photo, she went from holding my hand to me holding her arm. Time flies. Back then, she showed me the world. Now, I show it to her.

Tang Coffee (Tang Ka): My First Dali Coffee

After wandering the old town, we went to Tang Coffee—a four-story building with a rooftop terrace on the fourth floor and sun-drenched seating on the third. By one or two in the afternoon, the sun was hot enough to sting your skin. Dali's UV rays live up to their reputation. I ordered an osmanthus rice wine dirty, a Hokkaido latte, and tiramisu. The osmanthus rice wine dirty was incredible—slightly sweet with a lingering finish, completely addictive. The tiramisu was good too, sweet but not cloying. We sat there for two hours doing nothing but soaking up the sun, sipping coffee, and chatting.

Xingsheng Bridge: Dali's "European Corner"

We took the San Pagoda bus line from the old town to Xingsheng Bridge, then walked two minutes to reach it. The bridge has a vaguely European look, but it's actually built in Bai ethnic style, with graceful arch curves that make for great photos. I'd recommend coming after 4 PM when the light is softer. Below the bridge, along Erhai Lake, you can see red-billed gulls that migrate from Siberia. Occasionally, locals sell bread to feed them.

That evening, we found a Bai-style restaurant in the old town and ordered steam pot chicken, secret-recipe fish, fried yam flour cakes, and peach blossom wine. The food was decent, but a chance glimpse of fiery sunset clouds made the meal feel romantic.

Day Three: Xizhou Ancient Town, Coffee by the Wheat Fields, Slow Living

Sunrise at Caicun Village

A little after 7 AM, we walked five minutes to the Erhai lakeshore. You don't have to wake up early to see the sunrise in Dali—the sun appears around 8:15. Winter mornings are chilly, and the lake breeze is strong, but watching the sun rise over the water, with gulls flying by, made it all worthwhile. We skipped the trendy Longkan Pier; Caicun Pier was beautiful enough.

Xizhou Ancient Town: Rural Charm and Local Flavor

From Caicun, we took a bus to March Street intersection, then a minibus to Xizhou for 6 yuan per person. What makes Xizhou special is its pastoral scenery. This season, the wheat hadn't grown tall yet, just a hint of yellow in the fields. The Corner Tower was packed with people—no chance for a photo—but the rural paths were perfect for a leisurely stroll.

Ah Ma Ying Pea Jelly (A Ma Ying Wan Dou Fen) is a must-try. The staff were incredibly friendly, asking if we liked spicy food and recommending combos. We ordered a bowl of mixed jelly and a bowl of thin pea jelly with a fried dough stick—only 12 yuan total. The jelly is made fresh every morning at 4 AM. The taste was fine, but the price was unbeatable.

Pessoa Coffee: Overlooking the Fields

There are several cafes by the wheat fields. We chose Pessoa. From the second floor, you can see the distant countryside. Soaking up the sun there was pure bliss. Sipping coffee while gazing at the fields and distant mountains—time seemed to stand still.

Xizhou has plenty of snacks: po su ba ba (flaky flatbread) comes in sweet and savory versions, crispy on the outside and soft inside when fresh. Kao ru shan (grilled milk fan) is milk skin grilled over charcoal, rolled with rose sauce—best eaten hot, as it turns hard when cold. We're not big on dairy, so we found it just okay.

To return to the old town from Xizhou, take a minibus from outside Bo Li Pharmacy—7 yuan per person, leaves when full.

Day Four: Circling Erhai Lake, from Shuanglang to Ideal Land

Caicun's Vinegar Rice Noodles

In the morning, we had vinegar rice noodles at Caicun. A mix of red rice noodles and white rice noodles—different textures, with the white ones softer and thicker.

Shuanglang Ancient Town: A Grittier Dali

Compared to Dali Old Town, I preferred Shuanglang. It feels more grounded, with many Bai people in traditional clothing selling goods. Shuanglang is long and narrow, about 2 kilometers in length. Sea Street runs along Erhai Lake, lined with blooming flowers, giving it a European vibe. The Sun Palace is free to enter before noon; after noon, it charges a 128-yuan per person afternoon tea fee.

There are many stalls selling pickled fruit here—too sweet for my taste. We also stumbled upon a quirky shop: the door was open, the owner was out, and a sign read: "Boss is not here. Scan to pay yourself." Only in Dali!

Xiaoputuo Island: A Tiny Islet, Swarming with Gulls

Xiaoputuo is the smallest island in Erhai Lake—very, very small. A boat ride to the opposite shore costs 5 yuan, and parking by the roadside is 10 yuan per trip. This spot has an especially large number of gulls. You can buy biscuits or dried fish to feed them.

Wenbi Village: An Unexpected Delight

We had lunch in Wenbi Village, randomly picking a Bai-style restaurant. The food was good. The "old lady's potatoes" (lao nai tu dou) and the tofu in the sour-spicy fish were particularly delicious. "Water spinach" (shui yang hua) can be prepared two ways: stir-fried leaves or stir-fried roots—the roots are much pricier, and the taste was just okay.

The lake view across from the restaurant was unexpectedly stunning. We saw several couples taking wedding photos. After eating, we sat by the lake, soaking up the sun with a pot of Dali's signature Xiaguan tuo tea—pure bliss.

Ideal Land (Lixiangbang): The Most Boring Attraction

Ideal Land is a Santorini imitation, but it really falls short. It was incredibly crowded—impossible to take photos. Everything required either an entrance fee or a purchase to enter. We rushed through and left. If you're not into photography, you can skip this one entirely.

Day Five: Cycling the Erhai Ecological Corridor, an Afternoon with Coffee

Sunrise Every Morning

Every morning, we watched the sunrise. Today, as we did, a young person nearby was playing the theme song from the drama Meet Yourself: "The world is like a quiet island, the fish-belly white sky rises silently..." It was incredibly romantic in that moment.

Mengzhaoyuan Pier Restaurant: Mom's Favorite

Near Caicun, there's a restaurant called Mengzhaoyuan Pier that Mom absolutely loved—we went three times. The thin pea jelly (xi dou fen) was thick and perfect for dipping fried dough sticks. The chicken rice noodles (ji er si) were also good, with a texture like noodles. Generous portions, great value.

Erhai Ecological Corridor: A Cyclist's Paradise

On the west side of the lake, there's a boundary between people and water—the Erhai Ecological Corridor, stretching 46 kilometers. You can only walk, bike, or take a sightseeing cart. Cycling from Caicun toward Panxi Village, with clear lake water and soaring birds on the right, and traditional Bai villages on the left—every step reveals a new view, breathtakingly beautiful.

Along the way, we passed Xiajiyi Village and Majiuyi Village, both with bike rentals ranging from 10 to 20 yuan—negotiable.

One Step Coffee Art Museum: My Favorite Cafe

When we reached the S-bend at Panxi Village, it was too crowded, so we ducked into a cafe called One Step Coffee Art Museum. On the second floor, it had an excellent view, just a step away from Erhai Lake, yet surprisingly quiet. The outdoor seating on the second floor, watching the crowds below, with sunlight warming you—all worries melted away. I ordered a black sugar turmeric latte and a dark red rose latte—both delicious. I'd go back.

Facing the lake, sipping coffee, I sat with Mom for three hours. Time slipped by like that.

Day Six: A Smooth Return

Our flight was at 10 AM. With the Spring Festival approaching, Dali was getting more crowded, and traffic could be heavy. We arranged a driver to pick us up at 7:30 AM. From Caicun to Fengyi Airport took about an hour. The airport is small—no separate airline counters, just queue at the main desk for check-in. This time, the plane took off smoothly. No return flight.

Afterword: You Raised Me, I'll Grow Old with You

Our six-day Dali trip ended, and we both wished it could have lasted longer. The goal of this trip was simply to soak up the sun, and we accomplished it perfectly. It had been 23 years since my last visit to Yunnan. Dali wasn't as crowded as I'd imagined, and the overall experience was wonderful—a place I'd gladly return to.

Next time, I want to stay two nights in Shuanglang and visit even more cafes.

You raised me, and I'll grow old with you—I think I've managed that.

Looking forward to our next adventure.

If you want a trip that's not exhausting, rushed, or stressful, remember three things: 1. Avoid the windy season (November to April), especially February to April, when flights are prone to being diverted. 2. Slow down. Plan only one or two activities per day, leaving time to bask in the sun, sip coffee, and just be. 3. Traveling with parents—the most important thing isn't where you go, but every moment you spend together.

Feel free to leave any questions below—I'll answer them all.