A Solo Journey to Dali: Encountering Sunrises and Sunsets by Erhai Lake, and Encountering Myself

Destination: Dali (Shuanglang, Xizhou, Erhai Lake)
Travel Dates: January 27, 2015 – 5 days, 4 nights
Cost per Person: Approximately 4,000 RMB
Traveler: Solo

Why Dali?

"From tomorrow on, I will be a happy person; feeding horses, splitting firewood, and traveling the world. I have a house facing the sea, with spring flowers blooming."

This poem by Haizi once represented the distant dreamland for countless people. And Dali is the place where that poem becomes reality.

In May 2014, I began planning a trip that was truly my own. Not a tour group, not with companions, but alone. Carrying my own backpack, taking my own photos, staring blankly into the distance, and facing the unknown by myself. I wanted to give myself a special gift — before turning 30, to complete a solo journey that truly counted.

At first, I didn't even know the names Dali, Xizhou, or Shuanglang. Then I stumbled upon a photo of the Tyndall effect in Shuanglang — rays of sunlight piercing through clouds, spilling onto the surface of Erhai Lake. In that moment, I was deeply struck. This was the place.

Many people say there are too many places they want to go, but they can never take the first step. No time, no money, no one to go with... I've heard these excuses too many times. But life is short. Sometimes, if you want to do something, just do it. A solo trip isn't about proving anything — it's about meeting the deeper version of yourself.

What Did I Prepare Before Departure?

Itinerary and Transportation

There aren't many direct flights from Guangzhou to Dali; most require a transfer in Kunming. I booked a morning flight, with round-trip tickets costing about 2,300 RMB. Three weeks before departure, I started booking flights and guesthouses, and posted ride-sharing requests online.

I used a travel planner app to organize all my information: flights, hotels, and notes — everything clear at a glance.

Essential Packing List

• Sunscreen, sunglasses, scarf, hat (sun protection is a must)
• Towel, toiletries (most guesthouses don't provide them)
• Phone and camera chargers
• Moisturizing skincare (face masks, creams — Dali is incredibly dry)
• One heavy jacket (that's enough)

Accommodation Booking

Guesthouses in Dali require full payment upfront, with payment due within 24 hours of phone confirmation. I started booking three weeks in advance, and popular guesthouses were really hard to secure.

Where Did I Stay? My Four Nights of Accommodation

Xizhou: Linghai Muyue Guesthouse

This guesthouse is in Taoyuan Village. From the outside, it looks unremarkable, but once inside, it's a different world — a garden, a waterside terrace, and Erhai Lake right at your doorstep. I booked a Bai-style duplex loft with a sea view, but honestly, I don't recommend it: the bathroom is downstairs while the bed is upstairs, making trips up and down very inconvenient, and the bathroom layout is impractical.

Later, I met two girls staying in the "Kiss the Sea" room. They said the 1,280 RMB/night price was overpriced, and that the 680 RMB sea-view room offered much better value. That said, the guesthouse staff — an older lady and a front-desk young man — were very warm and helped with luggage. Breakfast and dinner were decent too. The guesthouse also offers car rental services; you can book a day in advance to go to Shuanglang, Dali Old Town, and other places.

The guesthouse has plenty of photo spots, especially the small white frame and the glass platform, which are perfect for capturing reflections.

Shuanglang: Canghai Yisu

This guesthouse has a truly open sea view, facing Erhai Lake directly. But the courtyard is tiny, and there's no signboard — you have to navigate a bumpy, half-constructed path to find it. The front desk staff were rather indifferent, and the room was basic with no TV. What drove me crazy was the large dog they kept, barking all day long. As someone absolutely terrified of dogs, every time I came or went, I was on edge.

Shuanglang: Haidi Life

This guesthouse is in Dajianpang Village, about a kilometer from Shuanglang's pedestrian street, and it's not easy to find. But many people come for its famous "little white table" photo spot. I booked a twin room in the hostel section, but honestly, I regretted it: the room was basic — no chairs, wooden ceilings, and you could clearly hear footsteps from upstairs. Soundproofing was terrible.

Friendly Reminder: Most guesthouses in Dali keep dogs. If you're afraid of dogs, be mentally prepared. Also, room door locks are simple padlocks, not the card-key systems you'd find in hotels.

Transportation Guide: The "Adventure" from Airport to Guesthouse

Getting from Dali Airport to Linghai Muyue Guesthouse in Xizhou was quite the transportation adventure:

1. Took an airport shuttle bus (15 RMB) to the train station
2. Shared a taxi with a mother and daughter to Xiaguan North Station (5 RMB per person)
3. Bought a bus ticket from Xiaguan North Station to Xizhou (8 RMB), departing when full
4. The bus stops anywhere if you wave it down — told the driver I was going to Taoyuan Village, paid an extra 2 RMB
5. From Taoyuan Village, took a horse-drawn carriage to the guesthouse (10 RMB)

Avoid This Pitfall: Airport taxi drivers will offer to take you directly to the guesthouse for 150 RMB, but only if you stop at a few tourist spots along the way, from which the driver gets a commission. Better to stick with the bus.

If you arrange for the guesthouse to pick you up, the cost is 190 RMB per car.

My Solo Travel Diary

DAY 1: From Foshan to Xizhou, Heading West

The night before departure, I was both excited and nervous. After all, this was my first solo trip — I had no idea what I'd encounter. Before leaving, I kept checking Dali's weather, worried about rain. As it turned out, the sun was brilliant throughout my trip, with rain only on the last day. I learned that the blue of Erhai Lake only looks beautiful with blue skies and white clouds — on overcast, rainy days, the lake turns a dreary gray.

On the plane, I sat next to a retired man. He said his retirement life was all about travel — six months at home, six months on the road. He recommended Morocco to me, describing it as a small city perfect for settling in and experiencing life. I genuinely envied his lifestyle — travel while you're young, while you still can.

During my layover at Kunming Airport, I struck up a conversation with a young couple on their honeymoon. They were surprised I was traveling alone and said it was dangerous. But for me, sometimes doing something you're afraid of just requires taking that first step.

After planes, taxis, shuttle buses, small local buses, and a horse-drawn carriage, I finally arrived at Linghai Muyue Guesthouse. The moment I saw Erhai Lake, all the hassle was worth it — so beautiful, so peaceful!

Around 4 PM, I was on the waterside terrace photographing seagulls. It was my first time seeing so many of them — they come from the north to winter in Dali. Unfortunately, they were all playing in the water near the neighboring guesthouse, and even with my longest lens, I could only capture vague shapes.

While it was still light, I rented an electric scooter from a shop next to the guesthouse (50 RMB/day; the owner said the battery could last about 40 kilometers) and headed straight to Xizhou Ancient Town for some posu baba (a traditional flaky pastry). The scenery along the way was so beautiful it made me want to stop — green fields, yellow rapeseed flowers, white Bai-style houses, and blue skies, like a painting. I couldn't resist setting up my tripod for selfies. It took several tries to get the angle right, but it was nice not having anyone rush me.

Xizhou Ancient Town wasn't crowded with tourists. I found the famous pastry shop. The owner encouraged me to take lots of photos. The pastries come in meat and sweet bean paste fillings. I bought one meat-filled (6 RMB) — hot, crispy, and fragrant. But it was too big; I only managed half.

As dusk fell, I didn't want to stay out too long, so I quickly rode back to the guesthouse. On a solo trip, safety always comes first.

DAY 2: Cycling Around Erhai Lake, from Sunrise to Sunset

At 7:30 AM, I got up early to watch the sunrise. The sunrise over Erhai isn't as grand as over the ocean, but when the sun rises from behind the mountains and light spills across the lake, it feels like a fairyland. Fishermen were already out casting their nets.

After breakfast, I met two girls from Zhejiang at the guesthouse, and we decided to explore Haishe Ecological Park together.

Cycling along West Erhai Road was truly wonderful. On the left, Erhai Lake; on the right, fields. Along the way, there were wind-powered streetlights and other cyclists circling the lake. The sun was fierce — I wrapped my scarf around my face and head for protection, but I still got pretty sunburned.

About 40 minutes later, we reached Haishe Park. It's an abandoned park with a rough, potholed path in the second half, but the photo angles are great. Inside the park, there's a large tree where a wedding photoshoot was happening, and a concrete path leading down to the lake. The water was cold, and the path was slippery with moss — you had to be careful.

After taking photos, we spontaneously decided to go to Dali Old Town. But it turned out to be a mistake. As evening approached, the temperature dropped sharply, and the wind at Xiaguan was terrifyingly strong. We kept stopping and starting, taking two hours to reach the old town. Our electric scooter was almost out of battery. We tried several shops, but none would let us charge. Finally, a rental shop agreed — for 10 RMB per hour. At that point, we'd have paid 100 RMB per hour.

We had dinner in Dali Old Town and did a quick walk around. The girls I was with said Dali Old Town was better than Lijiang Old Town, both in atmosphere and layout. I agreed. But the trip back was even tougher — braving the cold wind and darkness, with the scooter nearly dead, we crawled along at a snail's pace for an hour before reaching the guesthouse. It was an ordeal, but also strangely moving.

DAY 3: The Sunset in Shuanglang — the Most Beautiful Scene of This Trip

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Cost Breakdown

Final Thoughts

What does a solo trip really give you?

It teaches you to think independently, to handle all kinds of unexpected situations on your own, to endure loneliness, and to meet unknown people and embark on unknown stories.

It makes you realize that good weather during a trip enhances the experience immeasurably — thank goodness that during my few days of travel, Dali blessed me with beautiful weather and a beautiful state of mind.

It also makes you understand that often, it's not that we don't have time, money, or company — it's that we can't take that first step. Life is short. Sometimes, if you want to do something, just do it.

From tomorrow on, be a happy person. Feed horses, split firewood, travel the world. Have a house facing the sea, with spring flowers blooming.

Dali is that house.

If You Also Want to Go to Dali:

• Best Season: January (fewer crowds, great weather, lots of seagulls)
• Must-Do List: Cycle around Erhai Lake, watch sunrise and sunset, eat posu baba (traditional flaky pastry)
• Accommodation Tip: Book at least three weeks in advance; popular guesthouses are hard to get
• Transportation Tip: Ride-sharing is more cost-effective than renting a private car, but watch out for drivers who force stops at tourist spots for commissions
• Photo Gear: Taking selfies with a tripod is tiring, but worth it