A Solo Loop Through Sichuan and Yunnan: 17 Days, 3,300 Yuan, A Conversation with Myself

Prologue: When an IT Girl Decides to Escape

Have you ever had that moment—sitting at your desk, staring at your computer screen, suddenly feeling like if you don't go do that thing you've always wanted to do, you might just drop dead at your cubicle?

On September 18, 2013, I set off with that very sense of "doomsday urgency." An ordinary IT worker at a foreign company, I strapped on a nearly 20-kilogram backpack, stuffed 3,300 yuan in my pocket, and hit the Sichuan-Yunnan Grand Loop. Seventeen days, spanning two provinces—Sichuan and Yunnan—through eight cities: Chengdu, Kangding, Daocheng, Yading, Diqing, Lijiang, Kunming, and Fuxian Lake.

This isn't a travelogue bragging about "budget travel," nor is it a guide on how to "scam your way through." This is the story of an ordinary girl, measuring her dreams with the most honest steps imaginable.

On Money: What Can 3,300 Yuan Buy?

Someone asked me, what can 3,300 yuan buy in China? I said, you could get a North Face jacket. But for me, that money bought 17 days of freedom, the landscapes of two provinces, the warmth of eight cities, and the kindness of countless strangers.

The core secret to saving money? I think most of China's ticketed attractions are pretty boring. The real beauty is always on the road.

Quick Cost Breakdown: - Transport: Xi'an → Chengdu hard sleeper train 200 yuan, Chengdu → Daocheng bus 220 yuan, Daocheng → Shangri-La bus 112 yuan, Lijiang → Kunming hard sleeper train 150 yuan, Kunming → Xi'an flight 330 yuan - Accommodation: Hostel dorm beds the whole way, 30-55 yuan/night. Only in Kunming did I accidentally stay two nights at a 7 Days Inn for 158 yuan (ouch) - Food: 10-50 yuan per meal; street stalls and hostel potlucks were the norm

Before Departure: The Rough-and-Ready Girl's Packing List

Photo gear for a total newbie: Canon 600D with 18-200mm lens, plus a nifty fifty (50mm f/1.8). Hiking boots, canvas sneakers, a long dress, a shawl, a fleece jacket, two long-sleeve tees, two sets of thermal underwear, socks, and disposable underwear—that was it.

Essential Gear: - Hair dryer (washing your hair on the plateau and not drying it is a death wish) - Magic scarf/buff and sunglasses (more useful than you can imagine) - Anessa SPF50 sunscreen set (I still peeled, but at least I didn't turn black) - Sheet mask samples (lifesaver after sunburn peeling) - Headache powder (turns out I never got altitude sickness—carried it all back home)

Important Tip: Don't buy altitude sickness meds in Chengdu. Buy them in Litang or Daocheng—cheaper and more targeted. Glucose is super useful. Southern girls, remember to bring lip balm and a hat.

Accommodation: Sleeping Soundly for 30 Yuan

As a rough-and-ready girl from the north, my requirements for a place to stay were simple—shower available, bed available.

• Chengdu No. 48 International Youth Hostel (40 yuan): Close to Xinnanmen bus station, perfect for catching early buses
• Kangding Gongga International Youth Hostel (40 yuan): The shower was a bit far from the room, but otherwise fine
• Daocheng Brother Jiang's Place (蒋三哥家, 30 yuan): Famous spot. Brother Jiang can help buy tickets, and it's easy to chip in for meals
• Yading Dingxia Duo Guesthouse (丁夏多民居, 70 yuan): There was actually a café on the plateau, and the owner had a thick Beijing accent
• Shangri-La Lao Xie Che Ma Hostel (老谢车马, 55 yuan): The most comfortable hostel of the trip. The balcony faced Napahai Lake; the sunset was breathtaking
• Kunming Qingcheng International Youth Hostel (倾城国际青旅, 40 yuan): Near Yunnan University, with its own bar and stylish decor

Day 1-2: A Mid-Autumn Train, Rain in Chengdu

The day I left was Mid-Autumn Festival. At Xi'an train station, a friend treated me to a farewell dinner at Haidilao hotpot—the most expensive meal I'd have for the next 17 days.

Picking up my ticket was a sea of people. Lucky for me, I ran into an acquaintance and cut the line a bit. Good luck, from that moment on.

Arrived in Chengdu by afternoon. Met up with Xiao Xiao (a girl I'd connected with online) and headed straight to the No. 48 Hostel across from Xinnanmen Station. Dropped my bag, starving to the point of dizziness. Checked the map—Kehua North Road was nearby, three or four kilometers away. Let's walk!

Zigong Hao Chi Ke (自贡好吃客) — the old branch near Sichuan University's west gate. By 4 PM, there was already a line. We decisively went to the new branch, just ten meters away. Ordered two jin (about 2 lbs) of "diving frog" (跳水蛙, frog legs in chili broth), with potatoes and green bamboo shoots. Asked for mild spice—still so spicy it made our heads spin. An yi (Sichuanese for "so satisfying")!

Full and happy, we went to the station to pick up our bus tickets. Tickets to Daocheng had to be booked online in advance—snatch them as soon as they're released. Our seats were 2 and 3. Friendly tip: if you get seats in the back, mentally prepare yourself.

Day 3: So This is a Long-Distance Bus

8 AM, Xinnanmen Station. Cyclists and backpackers filled the waiting hall. Our two-girl team with big packs stood out.

Sat down by seat number. Met the companions who'd stick with us for the rest of the journey: Jingxi, a rock-and-roll-looking guy who quit his Beijing job to "cleanse his soul" in Daocheng; and Joy and Old Feng, a Singaporean couple who had basically moved half their home into their luggage.

That's the magic of long-distance buses — the people next to you are going to be stuck with you for at least two days. Why not chat? I'm naturally a chatterbox, so I got friendly with all three of them fast. We exchanged our Daocheng addresses, merged our itineraries from then on, and the problem of finding people to split car rentals with was solved.

The Chengdu-to-Daocheng trip takes two days: Day 1, Chengdu → Ya'an → Luding → Kangding.

Road conditions were okay. Altitude wasn't high. We arrived smoothly in Kangding by 6 PM—the "City of Love Songs." Stepping off the bus, everyone was stunned: stunningly beautiful, surprisingly modern. It's the capital of Garzê Prefecture, and they even have a Dicos fried chicken joint!

Kangding Food Recommendation: Ba Da Wan (八大碗, "Eight Big Bowls") In an alley across from Dicos. Unassuming, but the taste and prices were spot-on. I recommend the stir-fried potato slices with cured pork and the cold-tossed walnut flowers (凉拌核桃花). I still think about them.

Day 4: Bumps, Clouds, and a Rainbow

Departed at 6 AM. Kangding to Daocheng takes at least 9 hours, usually 10. If you're unlucky, arriving at 2 or 3 AM is common.

Our driver was amazing—short guy, thinning hair, steady hands, fast pace. Hardly anyone on the bus got sick or had altitude issues.

Crossing Zheduo Mountain (折多山). More and more cyclists appeared. There was a girl on the bus who'd roll down her window every time she saw a cyclist and yell "Go, go, go!" That feeling of passing by but not being able to touch—it was strange. In that moment, I wanted to do it too.

Litang arrived — the highest city in the world, closest to the sky. The clouds were unreal. But the streets were full of armed police. Don't be fooled by my jumping high for photos—there were police officers everywhere. Also, it proved that this rough-and-ready girl genuinely didn't get altitude sickness.

Litang to Daocheng — mentally prepare yourself. The road was terrible. The girl in the last seat was literally flying through the air the whole way. Day turned to night. We arrived at Daocheng station at exactly 8 PM. In the pouring rain, a rare double rainbow appeared. Everyone on the bus screamed with excitement, as if we'd forgotten we were still at nearly 4,000 meters altitude.

I'd called Brother Jiang ahead of time. He sent Silang to pick us up. His place wasn't far from the station. His wife (San Sao) saw how miserable we looked and heated up some chicken soup rice noodles (鸡汤米线). It was leftovers, but it warmed our hearts.

Day 5: If I Meet You Without Regret in This Life

The bed at Brother Jiang's was comfortable enough. San Sao worried we'd be cold and added an extra blanket. Xiao Xiao and I took some Nuodikang (诺迪康, a Tibetan altitude sickness remedy) before bed. Didn't help much—Xiao Xiao still got a headache. I had a slight one too, but fell asleep quickly.

Plateau Side Story: Brushing my teeth in the morning, my face wash had "altitude sickness" — it exploded all over my face the second I opened it. Friendly tip: be careful opening any liquid containers on the plateau. Expect geysers.

Standing in Brother Jiang's courtyard, seeing such good weather, I almost cried. We ate some eight-treasure porridge (八宝粥) we'd carried from Chengdu, then rented a bike from Brother Jiang (he and his wife are genuinely good people—they let you add up everything and just tell them what you owe; they trust you).

On the way to find the others, we learned Jingxi was at the hospital getting oxygen. Apparently, it feels amazing—like morphine. If you get altitude sickness, go to the county hospital. Costs about 60 yuan.

Lunch Recommendation: Sister Pang's Restaurant (胖大姐餐馆) — everyone recommended it to us.

Day 6-7: Yading, Five Hours in the Rain for a Glimpse of Milk Lake

Those two days in Yading were the most miserable and the most proud of my entire trip.

I climbed for five hours in heavy rain. Dizzy, stopping, drenched. But when I finally reached Five-Color Lake (五色海), the sky suddenly cleared. A random passerby took my photo with Milk Lake (牛奶海) — my favorite picture from the whole trip.

After conquering Milk Lake, you feel like a really impressive person.

Day 8-9: Daocheng, You Give Me Sunshine Only When I'm Leaving

The day I was leaving Daocheng, the sky finally cleared. The sun was so bright it hurt my eyes. What's that about?

Let me hug you one last time, my Daocheng.

Day 10-11: Shangri-La, You Are the Sun and Moon Here

Have you ever seen spring, summer, autumn, and winter all in one day?

The prayer wheel at Dukezong Old Town, the sunset over Napahai Lake, the stars from the balcony of Lao Xie Che Ma Hostel—Shangri-La folded all four seasons into a single day.

You are the sun and moon here. You've fallen into my heart.

Day 12-13: Lijiang Passerby, Kunming Return

Lijiang, Lijiang. Just a nine-hour passerby. Carrying my heavy pack on the ancient stone streets, a kind couple from Henan saw how exhausted I was, helped me find my way out of the old town, and even paid for my bus to the train station.

Back to civilization: Kunming. Sneaking photos of students at Yunnan University, zoning out by Green Lake (翠湖), eating a bowl of cross-bridge rice noodles (过桥米线) in a glass-walled restaurant—finally back from the plateau to the human world.

Day 14-16: Alone, Together

Wandering Kunming alone. Eating small-pot rice noodles (小锅米线) alone. Zoning out alone.

But at the hostel, I ran into new friends again. An adorable girl from Shenyang and a couple from Wuhan joined me for a trip to Fuxian Lake. They took care of me when I got my period—strangers' kindness is always the most touching.

Fuxian Lake proved once again that I'm a "rain god"—it started pouring as soon as I arrived. But the deliciousness of copper-pot potato braised rice (铜锅土豆焖饭) made me forgive everything.

Day 17: Big Xi'an, I'm Home

Flew from Kunming back to Xi'an. 330 yuan for the ticket—cheaper than the train I took to get here.

17 days. 3,300 yuan. Two provinces. Eight places. I walked, I climbed, I sat through a 22-hour bus ride. I got rained on, and I got the biggest sunburn of my life.

Along the way, so many kind people helped me: Xiao Xiao, found through Weibo in Xi'an; Jingxi, met on the long-distance bus; Joy and Old Feng, the Singaporean couple; Brother Jiang in Daocheng; the owner of Dingxia Duo in Yading; Brother Shan from Taiwan; the Henan couple; Sister Cao in Kunming; the little girl from Hebei; the Shenyang girl and the Wuhan couple...

An ordinary IT worker—how did I deserve to have all of you by my side?

Final Thoughts: On Criticism, On Budget Travel

After my post went viral on the travel site, criticism came flooding in. Some said I was "scamming food and rides," "hitchhiking by force," "teaching kids bad habits."

What I want to say is this: Budget travel doesn't mean traveling without money. It means bringing everything you need, planning carefully, and never traveling blindly.

In those 17 days, I never shortchanged myself on anything. I just cut out unnecessary expenses. To those who said "you weren't traveling alone"—look closely: I spent the whole trip picking up people and being picked up. Traveling alone doesn't mean eating, drinking, riding buses, and taking photos all by yourself without talking to anyone.

The beauty and charm of traveling alone is this—you can always meet new people.

I'm still in touch with the friends I made along the way. They'll vouch for me. To those who left nasty comments on Weibo, I have only four words: Get lost.

Practical Tips Summary

Best Route: Chengdu → Kangding → Daocheng → Yading → Shangri-La → Lijiang → Kunming → Fuxian Lake

Money-Saving Secrets: 1. The best scenery is on the road. Ticketed attractions are optional. 2. Make friends on long-distance buses—splitting car rentals and meals is a game-changer. 3. Hostel dorm beds cost 30-55 yuan. Clean and safe is enough. 4. Street stalls and hostel potlucks are half the price of restaurants.

Must-Pack List: - Hair dryer (essential on the plateau) - Magic scarf/buff + sunglasses (more useful than you can imagine) - Sunscreen + sheet masks (plateau UV is no joke) - Glucose (altitude sickness lifesaver)

Things to Note: - Buy altitude sickness meds in Litang or Daocheng—cheaper and more targeted - Liquid containers will "get altitude sickness" on the plateau. Open carefully. - Sit in the front of long-distance buses. The back seats bounce like crazy. - Traveling alone: safety first. Know your limits.

Finally, to everyone whose heart is stirring: Before you go, ask yourself if you have what it takes to handle it. If not, start practicing in the city.

But if you're ready—then go.

The best scenery is always on the road.