A Spontaneous Yunnan Adventure: Dali Chapter – Rediscovering Life's Poetry in Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight

Prologue: The Three Years Stolen by the Pandemic – Now We Can Finally Set Off

Have you ever had that moment? A thought flashes through your mind, and then it grows like wild grass, impossible to suppress. For me, Yunnan was exactly that kind of presence. The healing Dali, the fiery Xishuangbanna, the spring-like Kunming – these names repeatedly appeared on my travel list during the pandemic, yet I could only imagine them through a screen.

Three years were quietly stolen by the pandemic. We missed so many beautiful sights. When freedom finally returned to our hands, I decided not to wait any longer. No half-month of advance planning, no carefully mapped-out routes, not even a thorough study of accommodation and transportation – I just booked the flights and hotels, grabbed my mom and son, and embarked on a truly spontaneous journey.

If you also want to be this impulsive, here's a practical guide from Dali.

Pre-Trip Preparation: Temperature Differences Are Yunnan's First Surprise

In January, Yunnan's temperature is like a capricious artist. During the day, Kunming and Dali hover around 18°C, with gentle sunlight warming your skin. But as soon as the sun sets, the chill quietly creeps in. My advice: a lightweight down jacket or thin padded coat is essential. If you're sensitive to cold, don't forget your thermal leggings. As for Xishuangbanna, you can wear dresses and short sleeves at noon, just adding a light layer in the morning and evening.

In short, pack a few items from each season – summer, autumn, and winter – and you'll be ready for Yunnan's ever-changing weather.

Also, if you don't want to fill your suitcase with too many clothes, Dali and Xishuangbanna offer plenty of travel photography services where you can rent local ethnic costumes for photos. It's convenient and yields great shots.

Day 1: From Taiyuan to Kunming – A Long-Awaited Flight

Transportation: Taiyuan → Kunming (Flight, 3.5 hours)

Since direct flights to Dali are limited, most people choose to fly to Kunming first, then transfer to Dali by high-speed rail. The train from Kunming to Dali takes only about 2 hours, and to Xishuangbanna about 3.5 hours. The scenery along the way is beautiful, and time passes without you even noticing.

We arrived in Kunming in the afternoon and checked into the Lavande Hotel near Kunming Station, convenient for catching the train the next day. It had been so long since I last flew – that push-back feeling during takeoff, the sea of clouds outside the window, the city lights as we descended – everything felt incredibly familiar.

Kunming's air was so fresh it made you want to breathe deeply. From the hotel window, the city's silhouette looked especially gentle in the sunset glow.

For dinner, we went to the nearby Dayue City shopping mall. On the way, we stumbled upon a small wholesale market, and my son returned like a treasure hunter, arms full. The mall had fewer people than I expected – perhaps many were still recovering from COVID. We chose a wild mushroom hotpot restaurant. The taxi driver warned us that mushrooms in this season are frozen, so the texture wouldn't be as good. Still, this chain brand offered decent service and flavor. The mushrooms need to boil for 15 minutes before eating – undercooked ones can be toxic, so remember this detail.

After dinner, I habitually looked for a local specialty drink. Today I tried "上山喝茶" (Mountain Tea). I've forgotten the name, but the taste was light, the presentation was beautiful, and the ambiance was perfect for a casual chat. Recommendation rating: Four stars.

Day 2: Kunming to Dali – A Scenic Painting on the High-Speed Rail

Transportation: Kunming → Dali (High-speed rail, 2 hours)

It's only a 10-minute walk from the hotel to Kunming Station. Here's an important reminder: When buying tickets, make sure you choose "Kunming Station" or "Kunming South Station." Kunming Station is in the city center, while Kunming South Station is in the suburbs. On my return trip, I accidentally bought a ticket for the South Station and ended up spending an extra 100 yuan on a taxi.

For our first night in Dali, we stayed at the "海照山" (Mountain-Reflecting-Sea) sea-view hotel in the Haidong villa area. If you're confused about Dali's geography, let me clarify: The ring road around Erhai Lake stretches 120 kilometers. Haidong is known for its natural landscapes, with hotels offering sea views but separated by a coastal road. Haixi is livelier, with Dali Ancient Town and Cangshan Mountain nearby.

Haidong accommodation is quieter, perfect for those who prefer a relaxing retreat away from the bustle. Although dining and transportation might be less convenient, you can gaze at Cangshan Mountain in the distance and Erhai Lake up close – the views are stunning. Haixi, on the other hand, offers easy access to food, drink, and activities. Both styles have their charm.

Our hotel had a fantastic environment, with hardware facilities comparable to five-star standards. The owner was a person of taste, warm and hospitable. The hotel had two adorable dogs – Pino and Snowball – and my son was reluctant to leave when we checked out.

The room came with its own balcony, right next to the front desk. The evening sunset was breathtakingly beautiful. What I loved most was the room's sound system – soaking in the small bathtub at night with my favorite music playing was pure bliss. The soundproofing was excellent, so no worries about disturbing others.

The hotel's complimentary afternoon tea was also exquisite. The entire hotel was designed in a Moroccan style, and any girl who loves taking photos would surely capture great shots here.

For dinner, we went to the nearby "Mermaid" hotel's cliffside sea-view restaurant. Word has it that you need to wait in line during peak season, but it wasn't crowded when we visited. Although it was a bit cold and we chose to dine indoors, the food was still tasty. On warmer days, sitting outdoors would probably be even more enjoyable.

Dali's first day ended perfectly.

Day 3: Ideal State – Yunnan's Little Santorini

The hotel's local specialty rice noodles kicked off a great morning. I don't like rushing through itineraries, so I always sleep until I naturally wake up. Today, I wanted to experience a front-row sea-view room, so we switched to the "Mermaid" hotel where we had dinner yesterday, choosing a Mediterranean starry sky room.

From the room, I could see Erhai Lake directly – waking up to the ocean was an incredible feeling. The hotel package also included borrowing trendy costumes for photos. If you feel your own clothes aren't suitable, you can borrow theirs. The little pink car at the hotel entrance made for fantastic photos, but unfortunately, the wind was a bit strong, so we only took a few shots.

Today's itinerary was simple – we only visited Ideal State. This place is actually a hotel complex with an overall style reminiscent of Santorini, perfect for photography. If you love taking pictures, you can get lots of great shots here. If you're traveling with elderly family members, you don't necessarily need to make a special trip.

For lunch, the Mermaid's butler recommended Sisters' Stone-Grilled Pork. The pork belly sizzled with oil, and the homemade sauce was fragrant. The owner's family was incredibly warm and even gave us a ride to Ideal State. They recommended a local Dali specialty – grilled milk fan. Here's a warning: If you've never tried grilled milk fan, don't jump in blindly. That milky, gamey smell might not sit well with outsiders. Our plate was barely touched, and afterward, we'd steer clear whenever we saw the words "grilled milk fan."

Ideal State isn't large, but you need to go uphill. There's an electric cart at the entrance – 5 yuan per person, free for children. I hired a travel photographer: 299 yuan for 12 photos, including costume and makeup, done in half an hour. I recommend choosing bright-colored clothes because the overall color scheme is white, and contrasting colors produce better results. Only those with a photography package can enter this spot for photos. If your boyfriend or husband isn't good at taking pictures, hiring a travel photographer is a great choice.

Back at the hotel in the evening, there were still late-night snacks and afternoon tea. To summarize the two hotels in Haidong: I loved the decoration style of Mountain-Reflecting-Sea, with great hardware facilities, and the two dogs attracted many guests. The Mermaid was closer to the sea, with front-row sea views and more room options. Both offered excellent value for money, each with its own strengths. Having traveled to many places, Dali's accommodation impressed me the most – basically no pitfalls.

Day 4: Dali Ancient Town – Slow Time from S-Bend to Xizhou

The Mermaid's breakfast was still generous. After eating, we headed to Haixi to check into the Huazhu B&B near Dali Ancient Town. Huazhu is a B&B brand I quite like – different styles in different locations, and generally reliable.

Since the attractions in Haixi are scattered, we hired a private car for 350 yuan. The driver was a local, very friendly, and introduced us to many local foods and interesting places along the way.

Our first stop was Zhang Family Garden, a building with Bai ethnic style. My mom particularly loved the architecture here. Tickets were 50 yuan, half price for children and seniors. If you're interested in architecture, it's worth a visit – about two hours to explore.

The second stop was the famous S-Bend. This is the closest you can get to Erhai Lake. The lake's beauty was intoxicating – it seemed to have a pinkish hue. If there weren't many people, it would be incredibly healing. You can rent a bicycle and ride along the ecological corridor, buying a pack of bear-shaped cookies to feed the seagulls. Just snap a photo without any filters, and it's a masterpiece.

S-Bend also has many sea-view hotels, slightly pricier. If you like a lively atmosphere, you can stay here.

Afterward, we went to Xizhou Ancient Town. I'm not particularly interested in ancient towns – they all feel similar to me. But if you want to experience local culture, it's worth a visit.

Our Haixi tour was fulfilling. The driver was a great guy, and we learned a lot about Dali's local culture.

Day 5: Jizhao Nunnery – A Place That Calms My Heart

Today, I slept in again. I originally wanted to go to Cangshan Mountain, but the driver checked and informed us that due to weather, only half of the cable car was operating, so he advised against it. Instead, we chose Jizhao Nunnery – a Buddhist nunnery within the Cangshan scenic area. Unexpectedly, this nunnery became my favorite part of the Dali trip.

From the scenic area entrance to the nunnery, you need to climb a short hill. My mom and son grumbled the whole way, saying they wouldn't have come if they'd known about the hiking. But I thought breathing in the fresh air after recovering from COVID was wonderful. When we arrived, I was truly stunned – you'd never imagine a place where nuns practice could be this beautiful.

I suggest bringing your own tea leaves if you come. The nunnery provides free tea sets and hot water. If you don't have your own tea, they have boiled white tea and aged tangerine peel tea for 50 yuan a pot. Remember to wash your cups and put them back after finishing.

The vegetarian meal here is worth experiencing – 20 yuan per person. Go buy tickets next to the main hall at 4:30 PM. If it's crowded, you need to queue early. The nuns hold regular classes here every day.

This place is perfect for a group of close friends to have tea and chat, or for someone to sit quietly for an afternoon and contemplate life. Coming here, your heart will calm down.

I wanted to try the vegetarian meal, but it was still early, and my mom and son were getting restless, so we left early. Places that can quiet your soul are rare these days. Our lives are mostly noisy and bustling. Occasional relaxation is fine, but eventually, we have to return to the messy reality.

On the way down, we passed March Street. Locals come here for market days on specific dates. It's a lively market, full of the烟火气 (vibrant, earthy atmosphere of daily life). We strolled around, bought some good snacks, and across the street was the Cangshan Gate of Dali Ancient Town.

In the evening, we continued exploring the ancient town. Yunnan has long daylight hours – it's still bright at 6 or 7 PM. I continued my local drink tour and tried "一杯大理" (A Cup of Dali). The cup had a tie-dye pattern, very local. I ordered jasmine matcha fresh milk tea – light in taste. After drinking so many, I find these beverages don't differ much in flavor; it's mostly about the presentation.

We had dinner at Duan Gongzi's Divine Condor Heroes-themed restaurant. The pineapple rice was made with glutinous rice, sweet in flavor. The Duan-style One-Yang Finger (fried insects) was my favorite – I devoured an entire plate myself. The Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon fish was black fish with few bones, sour and spicy, containing rice noodles and sour radish – very flavorful. Despite being a trendy spot, the taste and service were excellent. Recommendation rating: Four stars.

Dali's last night ended with wandering and eating in the ancient town.

Epilogue: Dali – A Place You Must Visit with the Ones You Love

Our spontaneous 5-day, 4-night Dali trip came to an end. Every day felt different – the lively ancient town and March Street, the tranquil Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, the Jizhao Nunnery that made you slow down and reflect on life.

Whether you're burdened by life's stress and worries or just want to get away and clear your mind, Dali can heal you. The pace of life here is so slow that you can hear your own heartbeat.

Once in your life, you must bring the people you love to Dali. Because here lies your poetry and distant horizons, all your aspirations for a beautiful life.

Practical Tips Summary: - January in Yunnan has large temperature differences; pack a few items from each season - Distinguish between Kunming Station and Kunming South Station – don't buy the wrong ticket - Haidong is for quiet vacations; Haixi is for lively fun - Be cautious with grilled milk fan – out-of-towners may not like it - Jizhao Nunnery is worth a visit; remember to bring tea leaves - Private car hire costs 350 yuan per day – more cost-effective than taxis - Travel photography: 299 yuan for 12 photos, including costume and makeup – great value

May your Dali trip also help you find your own poetry and distant horizons.