A Winter Sun Tour of Southern Yunnan: A Ten-Day Family Trip to Kunming, Fuxian Lake, and Mile

Just after the 2025 Spring Festival, while the north was still gripped by bitter winter cold, our family of three packed our bags and set off for Yunnan. This wasn't our first visit to this magical land—we had just explored Lijiang, Dali, Tengchong, and Mangshi during summer break. This time, we chose a more refined small loop: Kunming–Fuxian Lake–Mile.

Why Yunnan? The answer is simple: when you want to escape the freezing cold but don't want to deal with the crowds and humidity of southern coastal cities, Yunnan feels like a gentle sanctuary. It has neither the biting winds of the north nor the damp heat of the south. The saying "spring all year round" finds its truest expression here.

Itinerary Overview: A Ten-Day Small Loop

Time and Route

Travel Dates: January 31 – February 9, 2025 (10 days)
Travel Companions: Family of three, traveling with a child
Per Person Cost: Varies depending on personal spending habits (budget-friendly or indulgent—your choice)

Route Plan:
Shanghai → Kunming (3 days) → Fuxian Lake (3 days) → Mile (2 days) → Kunming (return flight)

The distances between these three destinations are not far—driving time is generally between one and one and a half hours—making it perfect for relaxed travel with kids.

Daily Schedule

• Day 1 (Jan 31): Fly from Shanghai to Kunming, afternoon Citywalk (Wenhua Alley, Wenlin Street, around Cuihu Lake, Huanggong East Street, Kunming Old Street)
• Day 2 (Feb 1): Stone Forest Scenic Area
• Day 3 (Feb 2): Haihong Wetland Park + Xinghai Peninsula Lakeside Eco-Wetland Park
• Day 4 (Feb 3): Yunnan Wildlife Park (originally planned the Botanical Garden, but changed due to a ticket reservation mistake), afternoon drive to Fuxian Lake
• Day 5 (Feb 4): Eastern section of Fuxian Lake (Xi'an Club,网红 Flying Bridge, Hilton Beach), evening Starry Night Market
• Day 6 (Feb 5): Western section of Fuxian Lake (Hongshanzui Pink Sand Beach, Mingxing Fish Cave)
• Day 7 (Feb 6): Northern section of Fuxian Lake (Shihuayuan Farmers' Market, Guanglong Fuhai Bay Wetland Park), afternoon drive to Mile
• Day 8 (Feb 7): Mile Dongfengyun Scenic Area
• Day 9 (Feb 8): Mile Taiping Lake Forest Park
• Day 10 (Feb 9): Early morning drive from Mile to Kunming Haigang Dam to feed seagulls, afternoon flight back to Shanghai

Pre-Trip Preparation: Key Details You Must Know

What to Wear: The Onion Layering Method

Yunnan's winter is a season of love-hate relationship. The good part: as soon as the sun comes out, the temperature can shoot up to 20°C (68°F) or more, and a long-sleeve T-shirt with a light jacket is enough. The bad part: once it's overcast or the sun sets, the temperature can drop to around 5°C (41°F), leaving you shivering.

My advice: Onion layering. Bring a few T-shirts, one or two light sweaters, a lightweight padded jacket or thin down coat, plus a scarf. Peel off layers when it's hot during the day, and put them back on when it gets cold in the evening. This way, you can handle temperature swings of 10–15°C (18–27°F) within a single day.

Ticket Reservations: Don't Make the Same Mistake I Did

The biggest lesson from this trip was booking the Fuligong (Fuli Palace) at Kunming Botanical Garden. The guided tour tickets for Fuligong must be reserved 7 days in advance, and you have to grab them at midnight sharp. For example, if you want to go on February 3, you need to be ready at 0:00 on January 27. The reservation channel is the WeChat official account "Kunming Botanical Garden Smart Park" – enter and select "Tickets – Guided Tour Service."

Fuligong ticket prices: 80 RMB for adults, 40 RMB for minors over 1.2 meters tall, free for children under 1.2 meters (but one adult can only bring one free child). Additionally, you need to buy a separate ticket for the botanical garden itself: 10 RMB for adults, 5 RMB for minors, seniors aged 60–70, and current students.

I was so busy before the New Year that I completely forgot to grab the tickets. By the time I remembered, they were already sold out, so I had to change plans and go to Yunnan Wildlife Park instead. So if you're interested in Fuligong, set your alarm clock!

Dounan Flower Market: Asia's Largest Fresh-Cut Flower Market

Although we ultimately didn't make it to Dounan Flower Market (our daily itinerary kept changing), I'm sharing the research I did for your reference.

Transportation Guide:
- Metro: Line 4, get off at Jingui Street Station, Exit B (note: don't get off at Dounan Station, or you'll have to walk an extra kilometer)
- Self-driving: Navigate to Jingui Street Station Exit B or the Vienna Hotel (Jingui Street Metro Branch). There's parking nearby.

Best Visiting Times:
- 4:00 AM to 12:00 PM: Mainly small flowers, at the market next to the bonsai market across from Dounan Primary School
- 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM: Retail hours, main venue open, suitable for leisurely browsing
- 7:30 PM to 8:30 PM: Changeover period – no entry allowed, but small carts outside sell flowers at cheaper prices
- 8:30 PM to 2:00 AM: Wholesale market, mainly roses, the most spectacular scene

If you have time before leaving Kunming, stop by Dounan. Buy a bouquet as a photo prop, or pack it on the plane to take home—either way, it's a great choice.

Yunnan Wildlife Park vs. Kunming Zoo

If you're torn between which zoo to visit, here's my comparison:

Yunnan Wildlife Park (Panlong District, Fengyuan Road)
- Tickets: 100 RMB for adults, 70 RMB for children
- Sightseeing cart: 60 RMB (the park is large, so I recommend buying this)
- Features: Large scale, wide variety of animals, interactive feeding sessions, great experience
- Drawback: Expensive

Kunming Zoo (Wuhua District, Yuantong Street)
- Tickets: 20 RMB for adults, 10 RMB for children
- Features: Small park, walkable in about 2–3 hours, good for locals with kids
- Drawback: Fewer animal species

We chose Yunnan Wildlife Park. It was pricey, but our child had a blast feeding the animals—totally worth it.

Kunming: More Than Just a Transit Hub

Kunming, known as the "Spring City," is often treated by tourists as a mere transit point on the way to Dali or Lijiang. But this time, we decided to stop and truly experience its charm. Over three and a half days, we arranged a Citywalk, feeding seagulls at the wetland parks, the Stone Forest, and the wildlife park. Though plans changed along the way, every experience was memorable.

City Stroll: A Perfect Blend of Art and Everyday Life

Wenhua Alley: This street is lined with vintage shops, creative stores, and accessory boutiques. We arrived just in time for the Spring Festival "Yushan Book Fair," where a row of stalls lined the street. Many handicrafts looked like they were made by students from nearby Yunnan University—delicate and creative.

Wenlin Street: Walk to the end of Wenhua Alley, and you'll find Wenlin Street, a hub of coffee shops, bookstores, and creative stores. When you get tired, pick a café you like, sit in the sun with a coffee, and browse through your newly bought trinkets. It's so relaxing you won't want to leave.

Rubber Bookstore: A small but charming bookstore on Wenlin Road. The shop isn't big, but it has several small rooms and a spiral staircase leading to the second floor. Every corner is packed with carefully selected items. Though not cheap, I couldn't resist buying several things.

Kafka Coffee Bookstore: Right across from Rubber Bookstore, this is a space combining coffee, creative goods, and books. Order a drink and browse the small文创 (cultural creative) items. The outdoor seating, bathed in sunlight, is warm and cozy. The mushroom-shaped hat in the store is especially photogenic—it makes your face look smaller, and on a child, it's adorably like a big-headed doll.

Cuishengsheng Market: Passing by Cuihu Park, we were drawn to a market in front of the Cuihu Hotel across the street. Mushroom shrimp balls and mushroom beef balls were the highlights—the fresh juice from the grilled mushrooms mixed with beef and shrimp, a hot, satisfying bite. Our child bought a small snake made of soft wire that could be twisted into various shapes—fun and cute.

Huanggong East Street: Located behind the Yunnan Liberation Memorial Hall, this entire wall is painted a warm yellow, paired with green windows. The yellow-green color scheme is harmonious and beautiful—a great spot for photos.

Kunming Old Street: Very lively, with food streets, restaurants, small shops, and various photo walls. Half a day here feels leisurely and fulfilling.

Stone Forest Scenic Area: Nature's Marvel

I originally wasn't keen on visiting the Stone Forest—a classic tourist spot that, during Spring Festival, would be packed with people and rocks. But my partner insisted, so we added it to the schedule.

Ticket Info: Adult ticket + sightseeing cart 155 RMB, children/seniors 65 RMB
Opening Hours: 7:30 AM – 6:00 PM, last entry at 5:30 PM

To avoid the morning tour groups, we arrived at 1:00 PM. The crowds were expected, but we had a strategy: visit non-popular areas first, and save the main Stone Forest for last.

Sightseeing cart route: Main Stone Forest Station (start) → Qunfeng Diecui Station → Wannian Lingzhi Station → Liziyuanqing Station → Wangfu Stone Station → Bushao Mountain Station → Small Stone Forest Station (end)

We rode straight to the end station, Small Stone Forest, then walked backward, visiting each station one by one. This strategy worked brilliantly—we found nearly empty areas in the less popular spots, and near Bushao Mountain Station, we even saw a complete rainbow bridge (created by automatic sprinklers refracting sunlight).

The kids scrambled up and down the rock formations, absolutely thrilled. The bizarrely shaped stones, set against the blue sky, looked spectacular. I even imagined one rock with a tree behind it as a "broccoli," making our child laugh out loud.

By the time we returned to the main Stone Forest around 5:00 or 6:00 PM, the crowds had mostly thinned out, and we finally got the classic photo of the "Stone Forest" mountain. As we left, we saw a beautiful sunset, perfectly ending the day.

Haihong Wetland Park + Xinghai Peninsula: The Right Way to Feed Seagulls

Haihong Wetland Park is free to enter, open 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM, last entry at 5:00 PM. It's famous for its red metasequoia forest and the seagulls circling over Dianchi Lake at sunset.

Red Metasequoia Forest: On a sunny day, the blue sky and red trees reflected on the lake create a stunning picture. The lake surface mirrors the trees like a mirror, with a few red-beaked gulls floating on the water. The leaves of the metasequoia have turned a rusty red—long and slender, clustered together in layers, with trunks standing straight in the water. Sunlight filters through the branches, creating dappled shadows.

Cross a small bridge, and you'll reach the adjacent Xinghai Peninsula Lakeside Eco-Wetland Park. Fewer people, more serene surroundings, and even more beautiful scenery.

Feeding the Seagulls: According to guides, around 5:00 PM is the best time to feed the gulls, close to sunset when the sunlight sparkles on the lake like diamonds. We waited until around 4:00 PM and headed to the Dianchi lakeshore—and sure enough, the sky was filled with circling red-beaked gulls.

But here's the problem: during Spring Festival, there were too many people feeding them. The entire shoreline was packed, everyone holding up bread and calling to the gulls. These birds had been eating from morning till night—they were all stuffed, only willing to eat bread thrown into the air, refusing to fly down to peck from people's hands. The experience was severely diminished.

Even more concerning: many areas of Haihong Wetland Park's lakeshore have no railings, just empty steps leading directly to the water. With the crowds, it's easy to get pushed in. It's unsafe with small children. We walked to the left along the lake until we found a section with railings, where we could feed them safely for a while.

Complete Guide to Feeding Seagulls: From Failure to Success

This trip included two seagull-feeding sessions—one at Haihong Wetland Park and one at Haigang Dam. The experiences were worlds apart, teaching me the right way to do it.

Best Viewing Locations

Haihong Wetland Park
- Location: Self-drive to the North Gate, or take the metro to Fubao Station Exit B, then bike share
- Features: The gulls are past the redwood area with glass-bottom boats, keep walking further in. Not too crowded.
- Recommended time: After 5:00 PM; at 6:00 PM, someone does a collective feeding, and the gulls are so numerous it's almost overwhelming
- Drawback: Most areas have no railings

Haigang Dam
- Location: Navigate to Haigang Dam; there's parking but limited spots
- Features: Lots of gulls, lots of people; railings for photos
- Recommended time: Before 9:00 AM; by afternoon, the gulls are full
- Gull preferences: They like banana- or orange-flavored bread

Cuihu Park
- Location: Navigate to the South Gate or East Gate, closer to where the gulls gather
- Features: In the city center, very convenient

Laoyuhe Wetland Park
- Location: Near Kunming South Station
- Features: Lots of gulls, fewer people, plus redwood trees and a water forest—great for kids

Haiyan Village
- Location: Chenggong District, Kunming, farther from the city center
- Features: Walk through the village to a beach; beautiful at sunset, but quite commercialized

Our Two Experiences

The first time, at Haihong Wetland Park, the scenery was beautiful, but because of the Spring Festival crowds, the gulls were too full to fly to our hands. The second time, we learned our lesson and scheduled it for the last day before our flight. We drove early from Mile to Kunming Haigang Dam.

When we arrived at 8:00 AM, there wasn't a single gull on the lake—our hearts sank, thinking we'd made a wasted trip. But around 8:15, flocks of red-beaked gulls suddenly appeared—it was "feeding time"! The sun had just risen, the sky was still a bit gray, so photos weren't great, but the gulls were hungry after a night without food. They were eager. We held up bread, and one after another, they flew in to peck at it. The experience was fantastic! Getting up early was totally worth it.

Fun Facts About Red-Beaked Gulls

Siberian red-beaked gulls are omnivores. They love sweet banana bread, cat and dog food, pigeon feed, and in a pinch, plain white steamed buns. We noticed some gulls had black heads, like they were wearing little black hoods—hilarious. After returning home, I looked it up: during breeding season, their heads turn black to keep distance from other gulls, protecting their eggs and chicks.

Final Thoughts: The Meaning of Travel

A ten-day journey—not too long, not too short. We saw the incredible craftsmanship of the Stone Forest, felt the serene beauty of the red metasequoia forest, experienced the joy of feeding seagulls, and left with small regrets about missing Fuligong and Dounan Flower Market.

But it's these regrets that give us a reason to set off again. Travel is never about checking off every attraction; it's about discovering the unknown parts of yourself on the road, and finding joy in every little surprise along the way.

This southern Yunnan small loop made us fall in love with the liveliness of the red-beaked gulls, the warmth of Yunnan's winter, and the happiness of exploring the world with our child. If you're planning a winter trip, jot down this route—it won't disappoint.

Final Tips:
1. Yunnan's UV rays are strong—remember sunscreen
2. Big temperature difference between morning and evening—onion layering is the most practical
3. Feed seagulls early—before 9:00 AM is best
4. Visit popular spots during off-peak hours; start with less crowded areas
5. Fuligong tickets must be reserved 7 days in advance!

Looking forward to our next Yunnan trip. Maybe we'll meet again in some unexpected corner.